Vistisen

Headlamps?

1 hour ago, franciswilliamwebb said:

Now “beseech” is just the ticket, but “artisan” is well trendy these days😳

I will be using that when replying to customers who sends mails to me rather the help desk. It should  work really well as they all speak Danish.

3 hours ago, The Stationmaster said:

It all helps to explain why bullsh*t bingo became so popular!!

I left the UK about 33 years ago. Can anyone tell when it became compulsory to start every conversation with the word “So...” ?

21 hours ago, The Stationmaster said:

/\\\\\//\  /\\////

Hmm google can not help me? I was ready with a semaphore reply, but what is the language here?

21 hours ago, franciswilliamwebb said:

Over 65s might like to send a telegram. Stop😉

.-- .... .- - / .. ... / - .... .- - ..--..

1 hour ago, melmerby said:

There were fields full of wooden aircraft to fool UK based Nazi spies

There is a car factory at Malvern still doing this.

On 15/04/2024 at 22:24, Boris said:

Yes, but try and mute it or return it to the manufacturer as defective.....

or update it to a newer version

1 hour ago, PhilH said:

Surely you just move the Z measurement a few mil off the plate before rotating the print to the optimum angle. I print nothing on the plate on my resin printers, 1 usually raise by 8 mm, rotate then support. I also invariably use a raft under the supports,

That's what I did, but the highest end was warped in the Z axis, so the wall was not straight. I will end up using a new fdm back wall with resin vaults, and resin statues in the alcoves.

11 hours ago, kevinlms said:

That's BS. I find the containers OK, but can't find a lid to suit.

 

Of course if I throw the container out, the lid pops out from hiding, leaving me with a lid, with nothing to put it on!

Tupperware is a perfect example of quantum mechanics: In any box, there may be a matching box and lid, but you only know for certain if you look for it.

This also means that if you have a box without a lid and you spin it, them somewhere in the universe a tupperware lid starts spinning by itself.

1 hour ago, njee20 said:

Thanks, that’s helpful. I guess I’m more interested in the Bambu alongside other FDM printers. I’m totally happy with the workflow for resin, although I can see how much more faff it is, and I definitely see me always using resin printers more. The speed is sort of attractive, but ultimately I start a print and leave it, so it doesn’t really matter. 
 

essentially I only ever use my resin printers for railway stuff at the moment because the finish on FDM is so massively inferior, and it’s whether the Bambu printers have closed that gap, for things like buildings where you’ve got lots of straight edges and hard corners where resin will not be optimal. 

Here is another comparison print.  This is just about the maximum size the resin printer could cope with, the rough edge on the left is where the print met the raft. The two designs are not quite the same. The size of the arches was not quite right on the resin test print, There was also an error in the 1st statue enclosure on the left hand side. I corrected them on the same day I received my Bambu and this was the first test print made using one of my designs on that printer. In my effort to fit the whole design in such a way that the walls did not touch the raft, I tilted the wall a few more degrees and this resulted in resin print version of the new design becoming too warped to use! ( and it took 14 hours to print!)

. I

36 minutes ago, Paul_in_Ricky said:

That could be a perfect example of a torture test for FDM printing. Smooth curves will always be the hardest thing to print.
Out of interest what layer settings and nozzle did you use ?

I've seen some remarkably good results from FDM when printed carefully with 0.2 nozzles rather than the normal default 0.4.

As I said I have only just got the Bambu. This is printer with the filiment that came with the pinter and uses 0.4 nozzles, Please excuse my ignorance. Is changing the nozzle size just done in software og do I need to change some hardware in the printer?

On 12/04/2024 at 09:54, njee20 said:

As a precis to stop the “well for detail buy a resin printer” comments - I have multiple resin printers and I have an FDM printer, so obviously I need more!

 

I’ve been impressed with what I’ve seen from the Bambu Lab X1/P1P (I believe they’re the same hardware, but no enclosure on the P1P and it foregoes some of the bells and whistles), anyone using one?

 

I confess I’ve never messed about too much with my FDM printer, it works fine for what I want it to do (which is basically never railway stuff), but the Bambu Lab printers really look like they’re blurring the lines (often literally) between FDM and resin. Obviously at a fundamental level the technology is still the same, but with the speed and the finish they seem to achieve it’s a tempting proposition!

I have a Elegoo Mars 3 Pro resin printer for about 4 months, and have just bought a Bambu Lab X1/P1S.

The Bambu is streets ahead in ease of use. It is much faster, there is no need for cleaning or curing, The P1S has a webcam, so I can see how the print is going from my PC. It is also on my network.  The build volume is quite a lot larger than the Elegoo, and the bed is self-levelling. I have not yet had any failed prints on it.

The Elegoo has only a USB and is very fussy about USB sticks. Only about 1 in five of those I own can be recognised by it (and that does not even include the one that is packaged with the printer!) Just look on the internet and you can see that this is a common fault.

My limited experience (I have done about 30 prints on the Elegoo) is that it can produce much finer results for some types of structure than the Bambu, but there is a lot of fiddling involved. I find it hard to prevent warping at the edge of prints sometimes.

Here is a picture that shows the strengths and weaknesses of the two printers the design is the same, I used Autodesk Fusion 360 to create the design for a vaulted roof in the entrance to a model of Hatch Court. The fusion file is exported as an STL file. For the resin printer I use LycheeSlicer to produce the file. Because of the size the print had to be angled diagonally to fit the print volume and this results in a lot of wasted supports.

The Bambu print was sliced in Bambu Syudio, which is very easy to use. It was just printed flat on the bed of the printer, so no wasted plastic.

But the print results show clearly why I use the resin printer for this type of object.  They are the same size even they do not seem to be so in the photo. The Bambu has a lot of lines visible. I am not sure that I would say it blurs the difference.

I forgot to say that the Bambu print took 1.5 hours and the Elegoo print took 12 hours + 1 for cleaning and curing. My practice is to use the Bambu for test prints and then the resin for the final production

14 hours ago, Metr0Land said:

 

I would not want to be the ticket inspector on either of these trains.  It also puts the WCRC  battle with ORR into perspective

4 hours ago, Ramblin Rich said:

Thankfully , this is the plaice for that kind of statement

Oh Cod, not again! nothing but fish puns for the next few pages. 

6 minutes ago, AY Mod said:

 

It's their crack marketing team again.

Yet again Hornby is the butt of jokes

1 minute ago, phil gollin said:

.

 

One of the manufacturers really has to bite the bullet and produce a full range of "generic" short(ish) bogie coaches suitable for the (approx) 1900 to 1920+ period.

 

I know that the newish manufacturers concentrate on accuracy, but someone has to do them and the different liveries will take skill.

 

.              

The problem is that everyone want a 'generic' range of coaches, that happens to be a precisely accurate model of the particular coach they need!

On 03/03/2024 at 21:50, njee20 said:

You can resin print track bases (we’ve discussed that on Hayfield’s thread I’m sure), but obviously Martin is pushing ‘plug track’ utilising both, and the stability and build volume from an FDM base will be advantageous. 
 

I’ve got an Elegoo Neptune (because I had a Saturn/Mars/Mars 2 and the brand was a known quantity), and it’s been a good printer. Sorely tempted by a Bambu P1P.  

I have a similiar printer setup I have an Elegoo Mars3 Pro and have just bought a BambuP1S. I can recommend it. First impressions are that it is so much easier to use than the resin printer. There is no washing and curing to start off with. The Bambu has auto plate levelling which saves a lot of time and effort.  It even has a built-in webcam so you can see how a print is going!

Here er a sample print for a model of Hatch Beachaumps court that I am building mainly from card. I need to print the inner wall of the entrance hall The grey print is from the elegoo using ABS like resin. It is a rough test print is check sizing. It took about 10 hours to print. The green print is from the Bambu FDM using the basic filament that came with the printer it took under two hours. The design has been modified between the two prints to correct sizing and some missing details.

Somehow the FMD printer seems to be able to print in midair. It printed the window frames fine. The resin printer has to have a lot of supports, and print at angles to be able to print the frames in midair. Just look at the difference in the slicer plans designed!

It costs about twice the price of the Elegoo. But is going to be used more, I think. The running costs will be lower. Especiallybecause you don’t have to buy IPA to rinse the prints. You can see more banding in the Green print and the door frames are more ragged. I suspect I will do test prints in FDM and use Resin for the final 'production' print

17 minutes ago, PaulCheffus said:

Hi

 

It’s this that worries me as being diabetic I have to eat at certain times which are likely to be the peak times so I will be penalised for my illness.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

I can quite understand that. The situation is even worse in Copenhagen where the tariffs in the late afternoon, early evening are even higher. There are some who can organise their way around these prices, but it is hard for those who can't. But the traditional flat rate price is set a such a level that it would probably still be cheaper overall to pay the variable rate. Different  countries, different economic structures. No one system is perfect. But making us conscious of what we are paying, has encouraged us to invest in powersaving technology and our total energy costs have fallen dramatically. Which is good for the modelling budget, and the environment.

On 27/03/2024 at 10:42, hayfield said:

 

 

It looks like variable pricing will be with us sooner than later (we have variable pricing now with economy 7). not having a smart meter will not make you immune to it but you will be on a composite rate, which will no doubt favor the supplier than the user !! 

In Denmark, you have to use a smart meter which charges at an hourly rate if you have solar panels that are selling power to the grid. The electricity prices are agreed daily for the following day at 1 pm. We have a car charger that automatically knows how much power we need to charge and what time we are going to use the car. This then chooses the cheapest hours to charge.

We have just installed a geothermal heat pump for heating our large rambling farmhouse. This also looks at the temperature and weather forecast and takes into account the energy prices when planning when to heat the house.

Our electricity prices vary hugely during the day. For example, today the price at 3am was 1.80 kr. (21 pence) and at 6 pm it will be 3.07 kr. (43 pence)

We also have solar cells and a 10Kw battery.  What we need is the central ‘brain’ to join all the systems.

The central unit over time should

·       Learn our pattern of usage.

·       have information about electricity prices.

·       Use the projected weather forecasts.

·       Store information about how much power we need to have in the car battery when leaving for work

I would need to upgrade my car charger to a V2H unit (this means being able to use the car battery to power the house) to et the full benefit.

From this information, it should work out how much power we can get from the sun. It would then work out how much power we need to buy from the net, and when it is cheapest to do so, (possibly buying more than is needed and storing it in the car and house batteries to be used at times of peak prices.

In the summer when we are producing more power than we use, it should also work out when it is best to sell it (ie. when the price is highest).

In short it should do automatically, what I have to do manually today by configuring all the different control applications on my phone.

I was just getting excited because the company that installed the solar power sent me an email telling me that this system called HEARTBEAT was just about to be released. But When I contacted them, they told me that my Huawei inverters are not yet compatible ☹

Presumably there is now a queue of ships waiting to use or leave the harbour. At least the ones outside have the possibility to find an alternative.

4 minutes ago, 25kV said:

I'd say the feline stubbornness is ultra realistic!  😉

Later on in the video they start hunting the trains!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOPFunFsYCU

20 hours ago, Tim Dubya said:

It's an employee guide who speaks pidgin english