pheaton

10 hours ago, Albie the plumber said:

I believe the 37 's did .

Not sure about the 31's .

There will be class 31 afficionado's on this thread that will know for sure .As for stopping the  fan on the model , there will probably be a CV whose value can be changed to stop it .

31s and 20s don't have heat exchangers they use a portion of the radiators for oil cooling, so the fan runs permanently so they were never fitted with a clutch. Only 37s were modified for thr clutch. Not aware of 31s getting it, which is why I asked my question. 08s also use this method as well.

Question,

does anyone know if the fan runs permanently on the SFX models?

On 21/08/2024 at 10:27, Phil Bullock said:

Got 60 plus on the layout…. Very pleased with them , especially since I split the track and accessory bus…. 

and the amount of operational shenanigans you have phil its testament to their design ;)

on a serious note though :) i do have 2 that forget addresses each time there is a short, but other than that i find them much easier to deal with than tortoises.

Going to need a bit more info, like what version of 425 it is as there have been several over the years and if the decoder was factory fitted or user fitted, and what decoder it is :)

it does sound (no pun intended :) ) that it hasn't taken the address you assigned so can you check it has, as im wondering if the decoder isn't setup for long addresses try giving it a 2 digit address just to test it.

I've mentioned on other posts early loksounds have a habit of remembering the state they were taken off the track in, so if it had those functions playing then power is cut then they will play when power is applied, and only moving the throttle knob will break it from that cycle....but if its not responding to the address you have tried to apply that may well be why you are seeing this behaviour 

3.5s have a nasty habit of remembering there last command.... if for example they were running when a short occurred or power was interrupted to the layout. when you put them back on....they zip off until they receive a command to slow down. ive seen this issue before, with an ECoS and Hornby elite.

you have to actually speed up and then slow down...the ECoS exasperates the issue...because it has intelligent power knobs....so the ECoS thinks you told the loco not to move...but the loco thinks otherwise...and rememeber because on DCC the volts are always there it just runs away....

i would try as mentioned...move the power knob slightly forward to cause the loco to move and then...move it to stop and see if that stops the loco...

if not....

i would try assigning a temporary address to it, and then assigning the old address back to it. And see if that clears it.

id be surprised if it was an issue with the ECoS, you could try a firmware upgrade to see if that clears the issue?

I have a grainflow ill check mine tonight.....it was a model rail Ltd Edition, the only 37 i knew of affected by mazak rot was a 2015 issue of a 37 in EWS livery 37174.

14 hours ago, Marcoblanco said:

Yep infa red. There is no explanation. If I ever get to the bottom of this one I will deserve a medal!

Have you installed any LED light bulbs or....light tubes?

if so....try the dynamis with your lights off...

On 08/01/2023 at 16:25, Module00 said:

Hello thank you for your large reply. 

With zimo plux 22, it's more difficult to see which pin connected to the fan. In the Deluxe version the fan start at the same time than motor and same time the locomotive run. 🙄

Im not sure its correct as far as i know its random when the locomotive running or on demand on one of the function keys

@AY Mod

i get the same issue with the prototype discussions forum, on different computers with different browsers

my works laptop has its cookies cleared every time i log out so i dont think its cookies....i can only access the forum if im logged out, this first started happening about a year and a half ago, but dont really use prototype discussion so wasnt that bothered, but it looks to be related to the same issue above.

mmmmmmmm thats not strictly true, 31/4s have an eth alternator, the same fitted to 45/1s and and 47s (which is why 31s have an ETS index of 66)  this did not take traction power, they were not like 47/4s and 33s where eth was derived from the main generator, even in those cases the losses on RHP were not as great as you think, and in addition to that it would also depend on the ETH load. Also in those cases the ETS is from separate windings so again wasn't taken from traction power.

The theoretical reduction in traction power would come from increased mechanical loading on the engine based on Alternator and main generator output, bear in mind....the lower power a loco is and the larger the weight of the train...the longer that generator drags the engine back and the long it takes to get to a high enough speed where the current requirements issue a lower mechanical force.

there are stories of drivers disabling eth on 45s and 47s in a vain attempt to climb hills faster or make up time but the effect on engine output at higher RPMs would have been minimal. Indeed there is no measurement for it in either tractive effort or indeed engine hp, whilst ETH is on. BR consider the RHP to be the same regardless or not if ETH is on.

whilst an alternator at high output will translate to a mechanical load, the issue with 31s is squarely in the realm of the fact that you have a class 37 engine derated to 1400hp trying to shove the generator output through 4 traction motors in a package that is as heavy as 37 which itself has a higher engine output and 6 traction motors...

the morale of the story is br have tried to use a type 2 on duties that dont suit it, and adding ETH didnt make it any better... 31s were not built for inter-regional expresses

Having taken part a number of 33s i have to agree with @34theletterbetweenB&D the easiest way was too partly split the bogie from the top and pull it so it dis-engages the pips on the mounting bracket.......whatever you do dont pull that bracket out of the chassis....otherwise your in for a would of pain....

but then the pain you will have is threading the drive shaft back through the mounting bracket...

On 08/05/2024 at 21:20, 25901 said:

The Sulzer triple pump has to run long enough to reach starting pressures or the pressure relays will not let you start

im trying to resist but im gunna have to be pedantic Robin :)

The pressure switches are shorted via an interlock when S1 and S2 (contactors that connect the generator start windings to the battery) are energised because on a sulzer type 2/3 and a sulzer type 4 the voltage drop across the batteries during engine cranking slows the pump down to the point the water pressure switch will usually not hold. In reality, (as dave ex OC pointed out :) ) the fuel racks wouldn't open if the governor hasn't seen oil pressure but that would be achieved within several revolutions of the engine via its own oil pump.

EEs seem to be a lot more phinicky than a sulzer and they will just crank and crank until the pressure is hit 

once S1 and S2 drop out (start button is released) the engine run solenoid is maintained via the action of the pressure switches but even then...the discharge resistor means it will discharge slower and make it less prone to a shutdown in the event of letting go of the start button immediately after firing.....unless...its a 47 which has an additional "run oil pressure" switch (set to higher pressures), which is why you have to wait for the engine stopped light to go dim before you can let go of the start button.

On 25/04/2024 at 18:03, Halton Boy said:

Hi everyone

I only read part of the post on log cabins as I did not think this was about sheds.

I have looked at more sheds and information.

I think that a large shed would need a concrete base. One of my near neighbours runs a concrete pumping company.

The roof needs to have a stronger covering than roof felt.

Insulation, heating and ventilation would be needed.

I am an electrician so the mains supply would not be a problem.

  

O gauge is a pain because of the size required.

Maybe a shed for the fiddle yard with a garden railway is the answer.

 

I have a tool shed by Tiger Sheds and it is only small with no windows.

I partly insulated it with kingspan. 

Everything has stayed dry and not rusty.

 

I will keep looking, but when you buy a shed with all the things you need then the price soon goes up. 

There is also the question of security.

Thank you for your help.

Ken

TBH....a log cabin is just a posh shed!!! the only difference is that in some cases (not all) they will be built from thicker materials....because they generally are of a larger size than a shed.... In my experience, an entry level log cabin...offers little advantage over a well built shed....

Im After a Bachmann collectors club OO gauge MLV in royal mail livery if anyone has one for sale?

The other one i havent seen mentioned...is in the early years of the 158s, they very very frequently seen with a sprinter attached...and the reason was that because they didn't have tread brakes, dirt on the wheels would build up and insulate them from track circuits, so a 15x was normally added to formation because they had tread brakes. 158s were eventually modified with a tread brake on the outer wheelset of each car to resolve this problem.

Sounds like it needs an auto tune, I used to get similar with Biffs projects on some Hornby locos, 

https://dccwiki.com/LokSound_Auto_Tune

see there, you will need either a rolling road or a decent length of track as during autotune the loco sometimes gets up to some speed!

37 minutes ago, Andymsa said:

I note you mentioned about felt and ripping, when you need to replace it think about an under felt or tanking membrane which you felt over. Done propley the roof should last many years.

Absolutely andy, i think there were two problems, the felt supplied with the cabin was not of the best quality but there is also me overlooking the fact that there was no underfelt or membrane

20 hours ago, Moley48 said:

Yes, I'm edging towards a self build. Once I've got a full shed in cad I can determine materials and cost. I've seen people insulate cabins with floating stud work with sliding fixings but I don't fancy that idea. 

Sorry about the delay @Moley48 weather has been atrocious, and 45149 is resisting all attempts by me to get it ready for a new seasons running...

DISCLAIMER...my railway room is a tip and I'm in the middle of dismantling and rebuilding my next layout, but ive made the mistake of trying to plan it properly....so im not getting anywhere :)

So thats a dunster house double glazed i think it was a modetro cabin, its about 9 years old now, the roof is something i put on last year and ill explain why i took that course of action, its double glazed and its the middle log size (40mm) i think...

No rot its stood up well, obviously the bearers on the floor are pressure treated, the rest of the cabin is not...it sits on the dunsterhouse rapid grid system which has pea gravel in it to prevent water build up, air can get underneath the cabin which is essential.

As i said double doors is pain....i believe there is a mistake in the frame sizing which leads to a gap at the top, you can adjust the doors (trust me you will need to) the biggest issue in my opinion is they dont have a central pillar they meet in the middle, but they are an absolute pig to align, and i believe i will have to replace these with a set of custom doors at some point soon the other issue is the glazing is far too heavy for the door and its starting to deform it as you can see on the right hand door.

@duncan eluded to a problem with the corners and we can see they are starting to splay out and i secure these to the frame, trust me the cabin wont collapse it can sometimes create a gap, duncan mentioned a tie rod my problem is higher up so i will probably use 4mm angle iron in the web of the wall.

you may not get this issue my problem is i think that corner has sunk by about an inch.

two views of the inside.....show you the roof configuration, ideal for insulating...but it can mask leaks from the roof which with felt can be common because as the roof expands and contracts it can tear the felt. but there may be ways to avoid this...

be prepared to install extra ventilation it can sweat a lot in winter.

be prepared for an incredible amount of movement in the first few years, you need to keep on top of it to make sure any gaps between logs that form close up...

if i was to do this again...i would use a concrete base, a lot more expensive but much more stable!

17 hours ago, Portchullin Tatty said:

I had (until I moved house recently) a Dunster House log cabin and I know a number of others that also have.  They do a variety of grades; you want to go for the one with the greatest level of insulation to it and double glazing throughout.

 

They are relatively easy to build if you have a moderate amount of DIY nouse but there are stages that need two people and even then it will take a number of  days.  I built mine on old railway sleepers that I supported on concrete pads excavated about 300mm into the ground.  

 

The first year the interior was fairly moist as the timber needs to dry out and season.  So you need to bear this in mind.  After this it was always really comfortable with nothing more than a greenhouse heater bar for comfort.  I was very pleased with it.

 

A view of the inside can be seen here: https://highlandmiscellany.com/2013/01/20/glenmutchkins-part-1-have-summer-house-will-build/ 

My layout is in a dunster house log cabin,

the advice i would say is if you can afford it go for the thickest logs as this gives a more stable wall, they do move about a lot but eventually settle down, id also avoid (if you can) double doors, as they are a pain to align and keep aligned.

Oh and try to avoid building during the winter because that is when the wood will be swollen and expansion gaps are crucial in the roof as they will start to tear the felt which will cause leaks...going forward. i have completely re-roofed mine with tile affect galvanised steel

And @duncan makes an excellent point ref the corners!!!! i to suffer with that issue

9 minutes ago, Railpassion said:

If you want sound at a future point, I think it's pointless buying a loco without it. The sheer cost of fitting sound to a DCC model is off putting. 

 

With sound there is an entirely new dimension to  operating. 

It's also possible to switch off the sound and run the traditional way.

yes and no....

In the early days of RTR DCC sound, both the sound files and implementations from the major manufacturers lagged serverely behind what the modeling community was achieving, and quite often you were left with a very mediocre representation of the real thing...which required further investment in either the speaker setup or reblowing the decoder with new files.

then you had the problem or issue where there was a period where Bachmann decided they would do away with full fat loksounds and issue RTR models with selects...which linited greatly what you could reblow them with, and this (in my opinion) did hurt the sales of RTR models (not seen any figures) but there was considerable backlash over the move at the time...

Now with the like of cavalex and accurascale RTR sound has really upped its game, to going from a feature of a model to a full blown offering. and theres also the point that both Bachmann have started to offer DC users the option of limited sounds.

Bachamann have also considerably upped there game recently with the project of RTR sound projects, the latest 37s and 47s  are worlds apart from the first versions.

personally speaking i still have bought non sound models with every intention of fitting them with sound later on.

27 minutes ago, MidlandRed said:

I still think mine looks v pretty

and that's all that matters :)

On 30/03/2024 at 17:53, adb968008 said:

Some good feedback there for the photography, I do own an EOS80D but maybe not the right lens for close ups, my results using it on models have been poor.

I do use the iphone pro max for these pictures, and I will use track next time.

 

Alas I am but an amateur doing it in between work phone calls all day and dads taxi at night.., but it is my escapism fun, so the profesionals will always beat me on time, tools and quality (but thats why they get paid the big bucks).

however photography aside, the height measures were based on tyre to cab roof (not rim)  using the centre wheel (as this is the models bogie tower pivot wheel) to roof using a pair of digital calipers.

 

Height centre wheel to roof 51.02 / 52.08 (-1.06mm)

A real 47 is 3.9m / 12’ 9.5” which at 1:76.2 suggests 5.1mm or at 1.76 suggests 5.13mm

 

So its not on photos alone I think the Bachmann one(s) are too tall.. I checked against several I had to had as I wasnt for believing it intially.

 

There are other merits in the Heljan one.. the separate shutter grill handrails, front cab steps upto the bufferbeam as well...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But :)

When you compare it to the real 47.....how thick are the tyres?

heljans 47 was measured using a 47 that is on scrap size tyres....and a 47 that is mid-life tyres...so that will throw off the height measurements.... and there isn't many 47s running around on new tyres at the moment....in fact im willing to bet there arnt any....

springs....no 47 out there has new springs....they relax over time....and also...how much fluid was in the 47 when it was measured...that too has an influence on ride height....add this to the tyres...and there is quite a variation possible....

On 11/03/2024 at 19:18, cctransuk said:

 

There is a belief - nay, absolute conviction - that laser scanning produces the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth; WRONG!

 

As has been mentioned, it produces an array of points that mostly existed on the prototype. No technology is infallible - there are plenty of opportunities for erroneous data to be included.

 

At present, it is down to a human to make sense of what the technology reports - perhaps  one day, AI will do it better; (or perhaps not).

 

Ask yourself this - if laser scanning is infallible, why would a designer go out of their way to produce an incorrect model from the 'perfect' scanned data to which they had access?

 

Nothing is perfect - and playing the blame game will not change that.

 

You pays yer money and you makes yer choice - it won't be the same choice that others make, but that's life!

 

CJI.

A breath of fresh air....

part of the issue is...if you take two brand new ford fiestas...(before they got discontinued) they will look exactly the same....why....because they were built by a robot to a defined program with very tight tolerances....

classic diesels were built by humans...and they will vary from the outset...but even going on from that....they were modified and repaired very very crudely.... and when being repaired they wouldnt have access to the original drawings....it would have been cut and shut and that will do.

and thats before we get to paint...

im going to deliberately paint 043s yellow ends...in the wrong shade of yellow....purely because the shade we have chosen from experience is less prone to sunlight damage and fading... so if you took a model and made the mistake of comparing to 043...straight away your on to a loser.... and its the same with blue....br used williamsons....in the pres world...they are switiching to other suppliers....the shade and recipie for the paint is different so there are going to be differences....

and thats before we get to colour variation in photography.

Collets Models of exmouth have some back in stock as well, purchased a DCC sound one yesterday from them.

Was that a drop in replacment for the sugar cube @Dougjuk do you have any details?