Ian Smith

2 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

The very question I found myself asking myself half-way through reading your post. I suppose limewash would only leak out through any apertures in the lower sides - possibly around the doorframe. But if I understand the design, those square things just above the siderail are sliding hatches, with some apertures behind?

 

A little variation in the shade of red is, I'm sure, no bad thing and if it's a incentive to creating that not-straight-out-of-the-paintshop look so much the better!

Stephen,

Yes, there are sliding covers within the framing on the lower body sides.  If I do add limewash, I will have dribbles from the slats in the upper body and around the doors and also the sliding covers in the lower body.  I have always assumed that the whole of the inside would be treated not just the lower half.  Also, my assumption is that it would have been “splashed around” with something like a broom - indeed I have modelled a wheelbarrow of limewash with a broom leaning against it on my cattle dock!

Because I mix my red shade, there is always a small variation within my wagon stock, which is further varied by weathering.  The image containing the 4 plank wagon shows it to be fairly brown in digital format (it doesn’t look quite so brown in the flesh).

Ian

2 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Last! No!

 

(Can't make this Saturday, unfortunately.)

Panic not Stephen. It’s only the last exhibition for this year. Currently, it should be at Loughborough and Swindon next year.

Ian

Just a heads up. My train set, Modbury, will be making its last appearance of 2023 at the Portsmouth Model Railway exhibition on Saturday 18th November (Admiral Lord Nelson School on Dundas Lane, Portsmouth, PO3 5XT).

Ian

On 17/09/2023 at 09:51, DLT said:

Stunning piece of work Ian, especially as on my screen, its the size on a 7mm model!

Thank you.  On my screen it's the same.  The actual building has a footprint of 32mm x 24mm - I should have included a suitable coin of the realm in the photos 😆

5 hours ago, Bulwell Hall said:

 

Very nice work indeed - it must be tiny in 2mm scale!

 

Thanks Gerry.  Yes, it is quite small - a footprint of 30mm x 24mm (1.25” x 1”).

These small boxes are personal favourites of mine too, I much prefer the earlier small paned windows.  This particular one being a “type 2”, which photographically seem to be quite rare (excepting the preserved one at Didcot).

Ian

1 minute ago, Jeremy Cumberland said:

Surely the frames are painted brown? I have never seen the locomotive, but the frames definitely look to me to be painted brown in the colour photograph, the same colour as the edge of the front buffer beam. The axleboxes might be bare dull brass, but I am more inclined to think they are painted too, in a lighter brown than the frames.

Apologies, you are quite right. I originally viewed the post on my phone (so the image was quite small). Looking again at a much larger image reveals that what I saw as a brass shade is indeed painted a brown colour.  Being a post 1900 modeller I am used to seeing (or imagining I’m seeing) Indian Red frames, Iron Duke is clearly sporting a lighter brown rather than Indian red.

Ian

First, May I also thank you for starting this thread and for the effort involved in your experiments.

Secondly, the thing that jumped out at me with regard to the Iron Duke photo experiment is the tone of the frames - in colour they are clearly polished brass (as are the tops of the splashers), however when the filter is applied the splasher tops still look polished bare metal however the frames look completely different looking painted rather than bare metal!

Ian

My thoughts regarding the size of the mounting plate is that the larger size was necessary because the coaches were originally built with oil lighting (a much larger fitting) requiring a larger hole in the roof, so converted coaches needed the bigger plate to cover said hole.

Unfortunately, when I built my coaches in 2mm I neglected to notice this, so all of my gas lit coaches (all single pipe) have a small plate.

There we’re a couple of articles by John Lewis in early BRJ’s on coach lighting. I will see if I can find them as I know there were drawings included.

Ian

Steady progress on the Signal Box ...

Firstly, the bank of levers have been assembled and painted :

The left hand one is for the detonators, so really needs white chevrons on it - rather than trying to paint these on I may firstly try just scratching off the black paint to reveal the white plastic below!

Secondly, the steps have been constructed and attached - well actually, they were built up in situ :

First, the two side rails (stringers) were cut to shape (from 0.020") and attached, ensuring that they were vertical and parallel.  Once these had fully dried, the treads were added from strips of 0.015" - to ensure that they were at a consistent spacing, short lengths of 0.040" square strip were used as spacers (as can be seen in the photo).  Once the step was pretty dry, the next one up was cut and fitted.  Needless to say this took a few hours overall as I wanted to make sure that the step below was secure before the next one up was added.

Once all of the treads were in place and fully dry, the railings were added, firstly, the top and bottom newel posts were fixed in place (the bottom ones having had their tops cut diagonally at the same angle as the staircase), these and the handrail being formed from Evergreen 0.030" square strip.  Once the posts were fully dry, the handrails were added, then the central posts were cut and fitted (again with their tops cut at the angle of the staircase).  Finally, strips of 0.010" were fitted half way up the newel posts.

The final bit of progress is the start that I've made on the roof.  Firstly, a rectangle of 0.030" was cut to represent the soffits around the roof and also to provide a flat base plate to build the rest of the structure upon.  Once happy that all of the edges were perpendicular, some little noggins of 0.040" square plastic were fitted to the underside which engage within the "ring beam" of woodwork forming the top framing of the windows.  The guttering was then added using my normal method of gouging a 0.8mm round groove in the edge of some 0.030" plastic sheet.  This is done with the non-fluted end of a 0.8mm drill in a pin chuck.  Once the groove has been made, the sheet is turned over and a razor blade scraped along the edge of the sheet (where the groove is on the other side!) to form the underside of the guttering.  Once happy, the guttering is cut from the sheet with a bit of land to allow fixing in place on the base plate.

The roof "base plate" showing the pieces of 0.040" which engage snuggly within the "ring beam" of the main structure.  Also evident is the underside of the guttering.

The top side of the roof "base plate" showing the guttering in place.

The roof base fitted in place on the main structure.

The next task was to form the hip roof.  This was cut from 0.030", and was surprisingly simple to execute (although I did mock it up in thin card first to make sure that my calculations of angles gave me the shape and size I wanted.

Although I ended up with a hip roof of the correct height, when it was tested against the guttering on the base I discovered that it was very slightly too short (the guttering stuck out a bit too much on one end).  Rather than re-making the guttering, I elected instead to lengthen the roof!  This was accomplished by simply welding on a sheet of 0.015" onto the triangle at one end of the roof, and once dry cutting and sanding it flush.

The next task will be to unite the hip roof to the roof base and guttering.  Then I will cut some slate strips from sticky label and get those fitted.  Then it will be painting the woodwork before finally making and fitting the doors and windows.

Thanks for looking

Ian 

Just a little bit of progress on the Pen Mill signal box (I've been baby and dog sitting so have been away from the work bench for a couple of days).  However, before embarking on those duties I did manage to get a bit of paint on the box.  The whole of the brickwork was painted in a mortar colour (actually Precision Paints GWR Light Stone let down with a dash or two of white), then the bricks themselves were applied by dry brushing a couple of red brick shades mixed up from Humbrol 73, 100 & 113.

The views below show the results :

Before I start to paint the box's exterior woodwork, I want to paint the inside.  But before I do that I have decided to make up the levers.  These are simply a representation as although there are lots of windows experience shows that they won't be that easy to see so the fidelity of some nice etched levers seems an extravagance.

The base for the levers is simply a strip of 0.020" plasticard which has a series of parallel scrawked grooves across it at 0.8mm centres.  Because I had made one of the grooves a little deep the base separated so has been backed with a piece of 0.005".  The edges of the strip have been scraped with a razor blade to give a bit of a domed profile to the strip. The levers themselves are even simpler, being cut from a 0.010"x0.020" strip of plastic.  I have made them 6mm long, a cut being made in one end and one side of the split cut short and splayed out to represent the catch handle.

The next job will be to assemble this little lot and paint the levers.  However, before I can do that I needed to establish what colours each of the levers needed to be.  Luckily, Laurie's research had provided me with the signalling diagram for Yeovil Pen Mill's South Box (this one).  He also has the same for the North Box, but that is out of scope for his model.

Yeovil Pen Mill South Box signalling diagram.  Now I'm no signalling guru, so have absolutely no idea what "FPL's 11 & 13 stand normally 'Out'" means but I assume that the levers lean forward (i.e. towards the signalman) when Normal.  Similarly, "Points 19 fitted with Langley & Prince's 'Economic' lock and stand bolted" indicates to me that there was no separate Facing Point Lock Lever for Points 19.  Also, "Discs 5 & 23 mechanically selected" means nothing to me, but I assume that the states of those ground signals is determined mechanically depending on points 10 and 12.  Finally, "Spagnoletti Block on Main Lines" is also a mystery to me and may have something to do the with the dotted lines A-B, C-D and T.C.

Signalling engineers should probably stop reading this entry NOW!!

However, armed with what little I do know about signalling I decided I would try to determine the lever colours from the above diagram, so produced a little spreadsheet :

I have written a little formula in the "Colour" column that "calculates" the colour based on the text in "Type".  The "Action" column is simply my description based on reading the signalling diagram above.  I have called the platform roads by the A-B or C-D shown on the signalling diagram merely so that I can provide a sensible (to me) link between my description and the diagram.  I have no idea what 26 is on the signalling diagram as it seems to relate to the two little 'O's and +'s adjacent.  As the levers at the left and right hand ends of the frame generally relate to signals I will paint lever 26 red.

That's it for this instalment, if anyone can enlighten me further with regards to the signalling diagram it will be much appreciated, even though for my purposes I probably don't need to know.

Thanks for looking

Ian

 A little progress on the Pen Mill signal box.  Initially, I was going to paint the brickwork before making a start on the upper works, but in the end I decided that I would be handling the model quite a bit so have delayed the brickwork painting until the stage I have now reached.

Since the first instalment, I have again been studying the post card view which is the only view that we have of the rear and non-step end of the box.  The signal box (and the Pen Mill engine shed complex) can be seen in the middle distance, and my interpretation of this view is that the signal box has a window in the upper storey to the right of the chimney stack, which makes some sense as the line to Yeovil Town station runs behind the box.  With that in mind, I have removed a window sized area from the back wall in this corner.

The post card view that shows the rear of the signal box.  The whitewashed cattle pens are towards the left of the view, slightly further to the right is what looks like another wooden signal box but is in fact a Linesman's hut (according to one of the large scale maps Laurie has).  The subject of this build is the signal box immediately to the right (and nearer to the camera) of the Linesman's hut.

The following photos show the state of play of the model :

The upper works have been cut from 0.020" plasticard (the parallel plank grooves having been scrawked on first).  Once fitted in place, various strips of suitably thick plasticard were used to build up the framing on the basic elevations.

The corner posts had pieces of Evergreen 0.030"x0.030" welded in place to build up the profile of the corner posts (as the butted sides and ends left an L shaped corner post).  Once fully dry, a fine file was applied to ensure the posts were square and the correct size.  The window sills were 0.015" plasticard strips cut to fit between the framing, and sit atop of the scribed panels.

The odd shaped piece of plastic in all these photos is effectively a "ring beam" that will give strength to the corner posts and form the framing above the window and door openings.  This was cut from a piece of 0.060" plastic sheet so that it fits between the walls and corner posts.  The hole in the middle is to allow me to get into the upper floor area to furnish it after painting.  The hole will also serve as a method to allow the roof sub-assembly to be retained - the plan is to have a removable roof.

The "ring beam" temporarily slotted into position.

Another view with the "ring beam" temporarily popped in place.  This view also shows the new window reveal in the back wall of the signal box.

The next job will be to paint the brickwork.  Then the steps, doors and windows can be made and fitted.

Thanks for looking

Ian

1 hour ago, 65179 said:

Is it the box shown in the photo a third of the way down this webpage that you are doing Ian?

 

https://www.yeovilhistory.info/penmillstation.htm

 

https://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/side-by-side/#zoom=20.2&lat=50.94316&lon=-2.61530&layers=117746211&right=ESRIWorld

 

Simon

Simon,

Yes, the box is at the end of the engine shed complex, in the junction of diverging lines.

Ian

Like Jim, I have never used any sort of quartering jig.  Set up wheels on geared axle such that crank pins are about 90 degrees to each other (then leave that axle alone!). Adjust next set of wheels to be about same as best you can, add coupling rods so that it is an 0-4-0, then adjust the second axle only until rolls happily as an 0-4-0.  Once satisfied, add next axle and again only adjust that one until it rolls as an 0-6-0.  As Alexander would say “simples”.

Ian

I hope that Laurie doesn't mind my cluttering up his thread with my build progress but here goes anyway ...

Some time ago, I suggested to Laurie that since Modbury is essentially finished that I wouldn't mind making one or two bits and bobs for his Yeovil project - I enjoy all elements of railway modelling and since I didn't need to actually build anything other than rolling stock for my own project that one or two side projects would be quite nice for my own interest as much as anything else!

We tentatively agreed that I would try to build the Pen Mill signal box, and Laurie furnished me with what few photos he possessed of the Pen Mill engine shed area that included "Yeovil Pen Mill South" signal box, along with his track plan as this illustrated the small amount of real estate available for the box to fit in.  Essentially, the signal box sits within the diverging roads of the GWR line from Pen Mill station towards Weymouth and the link line from Pen Mill to Yeovil Town.  From the various plans Laurie had we estimated that the box was only about 16'0" x 12'0" in footprint.

With these dimensions in mind, and a reasonable (although not close up) photo of the step end of the signal box, a CAD drawing was produced using the imported photo as a scale to ensure that the height and width of the box were in proportion, and the front, rear and other end drawn up based on other GWR signal boxes.  Unfortunately, Yeovil Pen Mill box seems to have been one of the relatively rare Type 2 boxes, so the resulting drawing is not an accurate rendition of the actual signal box at Pen Mill but is my best guess from the information I have available.

Basic CAD drawing of Yeovil Pen Mill Signal Box (as originally drawn).  Following a discussion with Laurie, we believe from the only (very distant) photo we have of the rear and non-step end that there was a small timber extension (possibly toilet) cantilevered out above and to the left of the locking room door as I have drawn it.

Although I have printed a couple of copies of the above drawing onto card with a view of making a mock up, in the end I dispensed with that idea and went straight into cutting plasticard!  The following sequence of photos shows the lead up to the current state of play - the brickies have completed their work and are now waiting for the carpenters and joiners to come onsite.

The basic carcass of the locking room was built up in 0.040" plasticard with the door and window openings slightly bigger than the actual furniture will require.  An outer skin of Slater's brick plasticard (0.020") was welded in place (with the door and window openings correctly sized (this forms a small rebate behind the brickwork into which the actual door and windows will eventually sit).

As may be seen in the above photo, I favour butt (rather than mitred) joins at the corners of my buildings, so once the solvent had fully dried, the excess lengths of walls were cut and sanded back to be flush with their 90 degree counterparts.  The brick courses (well mortar lines) were made good around the corners with a fine 3 square (triangular) escapement file.

The following 3 photos show the current state of play (before the carpenters and joiners turn up) :

Once the back wall had been added, suitably sized pieces of plain 0.020" plasticard were welded in place before the internal skin of brick plasticard was welded in place.

A small step was added for the locking room door, and strips of 0.020" added in the window reveals for the sills.  The arch brickwork around the tops of the window reveal was simply formed by skrawking parallel lines 0.5mm apart on a piece of 0.020", a strip 1.5mm was cut off perpendicular to the scribed lines, then a razor blade used to cut into each groove about 2/3rds (i.e. leaving about 0.5mm of groove attaching each brick to the adjoining one).  This action causes a gentle bend along the strip just right for an arch.

The chimney stack was made up as a separate component, the basis being a 2mm square section of plastic around which brick plasticard was layered - ideally I would have used 3mm square plastic but didn't have any in my stock (until I had finished the chimney when miraculously I found a 6" length in a bag of odd strips of plasticard!!)  Once complete, the stack was fixed in place centrally on the back wall.

Before I can make a start on the upper wood work, I will paint all of the brickwork.  The plan is to paint the whole in a mortar colour, and when dry I will dry-brush various brick shades diagonally to hopefully pick out the individual bricks.

Thanks for looking

Ian

Richard,

You will also need 3-133 Frame bushes (10 phosphor bronze), 6 for the axle holes and others for the worm and spur gear axles (sorry I’m not familiar with the J94 chassis so don’t know how many extra are required for the spur gear(s) or worm shaft).

I think you need the wider frame spacer PCB strip with these 0.010” chassis kits, the narrower strip I think was used with the phosphor bronze frames (scratch built).

The gear muffs will be needed on any axle that has a gear on it including the worm gear and any intermediate spur gears (the other muffs may not have a concentric hole and outer surface so if used with a gear you could end up with a gear that doesn’t run true).

Hope that is useful and also hope that someone with more experience of this chassis kit shares their knowledge too.

Ian

I think that getting others involved with running anything is an age old problem. One of my other hobbies is radio controlled car racing, I have been club secretary for more years then I care to remember (over 15 years), the same treasurer has been in post longer than I have (over 25 years!) and the same chairman has held the post for several years too.  At each AGM no one ever puts their names forward to take up the reins, so the 3 of us default to continue.  We have just 2 other club members who are prepared to form a committee.

At 62 I am the youngest of the 3 by quite some margin, but one wonders how long we will continue.

Getting back to railway matters, I’ve finally joined the Great Western Study Group, and looking at the newsletters so far received, the group journal (Pannier) has finally got a new editor, the previous one continuing long beyond his preferred retirement - it almost seemed that an ultimatum was the only way to get new blood into the role (a kind of “that’s it, no more publications unless someone new steps up”).  But equally, it’s not just people to do the role that is needed, they also need input from the membership as a whole, our 2mm Association magazine editor regularly requests articles for the future magazines, as without that there can be no magazine!

34 minutes ago, queensquare said:

As others have said, another excellent Railex, particularly so considering the late change of hall. Many thanks to Tim, David and the rest of the Risborough team for all there efforts. Couple of snaps of our offering -

 

Kim and Paula looking cool on the joint Bath sheds, 2mm Roadshow stand - no mean feat on a decidedly warm and sticky Saturday!

 

…. and me performing my hypnosis trick using the powers of a slowly rotating turntable!

 

Jerry

 

I assume that the second turntable photo is for the benefit of our Antipodean friends 🤣

A big thank you to Tim, David and team from the Modbury team too.  A thoroughly enjoyable exhibition despite it being a bit warm and sticky!  Our vote was also for Old Parrock - a very deserved "best in show".

Ian