GRC

You will have to get yourself a bigger shed so you can hang onto it yourself. Real shame to sell or dismantle :-(

Great guide with some good tips, thanks Lisa

Hi Jeremy, the building looks really good,  Assume you will varnish before and after using weathering powders?  Will you use anything special or just some standard varnish like Railmatch? 

Thanks Gavin..

Interesting looking at the photo's. Can see a lot more detail on them than I can by looking at the model. Will have to do some tidying up of each building and area as I reinstall on the layout. Guess I should also varnish as well to protect the card from the elements.  Do people use spray varnish for cardboard buildings ? 

The scale scenes ones aren't bad and they come in N which is great, used a mix on here of card and ready to plant depending on location and colouring needed.

Thanks Ben, Certainly planned to paint the insides and fill so they are not running empty. Thanks for the Halfords grey primer idea,  not thought about using that and it would be a good way of preparing the insides. Mot made as much progress on these, the brass fittings are very fiddly and taking a lot longer than expected. 

Great tip, thanks

Couple of tips

1. 9v battery with two wires will drive a cobalt, great for testing as you fix and general faulfinding. You can buy battery caps from rs with the fly leads attached.

2. Set the controller addresses and test before fitting, I recall now that some of mine took a. Couple of attempts to learn theirs and if you forget to put the switch back you can change it accidentally.

WSNG use the following Plugs and Sockets  from RS Components

Chassis Mounting Shell 12 way Type B 466-755

""           ""                                  Type A  466-747

Inserts Sockets 468-557

Inserts Plugs 468 -541

Heavy duty and massively overengineered for the purpose but very robust and easy to use. 

Easy one first, On each cobalt I added the single controller, these fit in the slot and I've used a sellotape  sticky pad to fix them once they have been tested. Two wires to the power bus, two to the actual cobalt. I use frog switching for the front of layout to avoid the blades being the electrical contacts and connect the cobalt to the bus as well, Could have daisy chained but went back to the chock blocks for convenience.  Make sure that you set the controller addresses up first if possible as the switch can be difficult to get too once the controller is mounted.  In RM I just used one of the generic single port controllers set up the address and that's it.  I have an Elite which sits just behind the PC but don't think the new eLink is any different.  You can use the polarity switching in RM and also set the opening position which resets all the points when the software starts, very nice if your used to a handheld which doesn't have that facility.  If I haven't answered your question please ask again.  PS You can test the controllers are set up correctly with any DCC controller including the elite without RM just to isolate the issue. 

Thanks, think the photo's make it look both better and worse. Need to finish the job and get the layout outside to get some decent photo's.  Just for Info I'm using a puffer bottle for the grass and bits of flock from the trees along with some bushes from woodland scenic. Usual mix of PVA and water for the glue. 

Certainly the WSNG modules will have all of those combinations. One of the reasons I went for 2 modules or 8 feet is to reduce this effect down. I've seen a US modular layout where the buildings and ballast are standardised. That worked very well. I did see some discussion about an Somerset and Dorset modular layout and I'd like to do something like that in the future.