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Posts posted by Graham108
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JDW - thanks for the info. I've now searched for 'pick ups' and managed to find several useful articles - some have links to things like 'phosphor bronze strips'.
Unfortunately I'm now back at work so this project may have to wait for a while.
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I've recently installed the Black Cat Technology lighting unit into Hornby Class 121 and decided to try the 3-car Lima 117. The questions I have involve the use of the connection plug between the individual cars and I'm hoping this has already been done by somebody willing to share knowledge.
To me there are 2 options -
1) drill holes in the end of each unit and solder the connectors so they lie somewhere above the couplings.
2) alternatively add pick-ups to the unpowered end car so there is no need to run wire between the units.
I think I'd prefer the 2nd option if anybody can advise how this can be achieved please.
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Walk this way - Aerosmith
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Lay Lady Lay - Eric Clapton/Bob Dylan
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OK so I've now checked the AC outlet and it's working fine. Bu I have another question - which of the sockets are +ve and which -ve please? There's nothing on the unit to identify this and I wouldn't want to wire anything up the wrong way and cause a problem somewhere.
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Just found one in my box of 'old stuff'. In working order if anybody needs it.
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On 27/06/2020 at 11:19, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:
Heres a great bit video of 59003 at 5 doing what they do best with 4800 ton on her back,not my video so give it a like and theres loads of good railway stuff on his channel
Are there 2 different types of wagon at the front of the rake being pulled behind the 59? Some look to have an extra bit around the top.
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2 hours ago, AY Mod said:
Because they want permanence for and from retailers and not someone with boxes piled up in a spare bedroom flogging at bottom dollar on the internet with less protection for consumers.
Why do you want them to do it differently?
Where do I say that I do? And by putting the 'you' in bold type I'm assuming that you think I'm in a minority of one.
However if I was a manufacturer I;d be keeping ALL options open, regardless of whatever trading conditions dictate at the time. Who knows what's around the corner (and I'm not just speaking with hindsight)
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Why on earth won't manufacturers supply retailers with no physical outlet. Can beggars really be choosers?
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On 29/06/2020 at 13:13, McC said:
They are designed to fit most track, including codes 75, 83 and 100.
Check out this video for some guidance on installation
Further to the comment in the video regarding use on DC layouts, the lights only come on when the train is moving AWAY from the buffers (or at least they do on mine); if they came on when the train is approaching I could understand the logic better.
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Switches now gone
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From a layout dismantled some 30 years ago I've found I still have some 50+ switches which may be of use to somebody, working to a budget. Combination of 2-way, centre-off (all double pole) and push-to-make. If interested PM with your address.
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12 hours ago, Accurascale Fran said:
Hi there,
We don’t offer a bundle deal on Mark 5 coaches.
Cheers!
Fran
But then you don't (appear to) sell the coaches individually so by definition they're a 'bundle' deal.
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Now on way to new home!
4 Builder Plus kits on offer:
BP0045 - low relief Cinema
BP0087 - GWR Stables
BP0090 - GWR Receiving Office
BP0091 - GWR Pumping Station
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I have been experiencing a similar problem with an electrofrog point on my DC layout - trains would go one way but not the other. Spent hours over my 3 months of furlough trying to cure it, checking the electrics and connections - I don't use anything extra in terms of wiring, no feed to the frog etc.
Then on Tuesday I finally found the problem - the switch blade was bent slightly toward the outer rail which was causing a 'short' with the loco wheel touching both at the same time - straightened the switch blade and Hey Presto, smooth running by all locos in each direction.
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Best practice is to place an insulated joiner on the end of each 'frog' part - assuming you're talking Electrorog points. If Insulated points then you don't need to include any additional insulation.
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19 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:
One side failing sounds ominous. Do the AC and DC uncontrolled outputs both work? If so its probably the rheostat wire support which may be asbestos has disintegrated. No big deal but I would have the top off and do a visual test on the internal wiring.
The more common fail is the rectifiers, selenium? fail. There are some excellent rectifiers about 12 amp on eBay for about £2 which bolt straight in and work fine just using the case as a heat sink. You could use a 2 Amp for 75p but you need a £3 heat sink so to misquote Mr pres dent its Fake Economy. There was some lethal insulation around circa 1975 which sort of falls off as if its been attacked by acid. We had some in some UK made flourescent lamps made 1975, had to scrap all 16 or so. In many cases the 1950s insulation seems fine but I still change it if there is any doubt.
Not had chance to test the AC output yet - will try later.
Thanks for the other replies - I'll check size with a drill bit (with the unit unplugged!) and I'll get some appropriate plugs from my local electrical shop (if it's open again yet).
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I'm using an old H&M Duette which must be around 50 years old now. Only one of the transformers works, which is OK for me, and I've just tested the 12v accessory connections and they work as well. But I'm really in need of knowing what type / size of plug should be used for a tight fit please.
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On 09/06/2020 at 01:01, slg said:
Just got a pair from Kernow very impressed with them.
I know the buffers in this video aren't yours but how often to you see them being tested
I was expecting / hoping to see the train hit them at speed which would be the correct way to test them!
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Just received a set for my DC layout - only concern I had was the lights only come on when the train is departing - surely on the prototype if they're not on permanently they would light up when the train is arriving?
As I plan to have them lit permanently I'll wire them to a separate feed anyway.
Does anybody know if there's a prototype for using them in goods yards etc, or are they only used in stations?
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On 07/06/2020 at 12:32, RobMG said:
I am trying to submit a for sale ad, but I keep being told I can't because I don't have the right type of account... This is weird because I have advertised before with no problem. Where am I going wrong ???????
Rob
You need to be come a Gold member -
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53 minutes ago, 125_driver said:
I have a problem with 2 separate TTS 47s. Both seem to derail , but only when hauling stock and only when the driven bogie is trailing (ie next to the stock).
It is not an issue light engine or if the driven bogie is leading. The problem is inflicting 2 locos which leads me to think it's some sort of design fault which may be correctable as I have a couple more Hornby 47 tts which run normally.
Anyone else experienced this or know a possible fix??
You don't say where the derailment takes place - on the straight, curves or through points.
I have problems with older locos having the large couplings, when pulling modern wagons with the smaller couplings - there's not enough 'swing' on the loco bogie on curves so either the loco or the first wagon derails.
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11 hours ago, Geep7 said:
Hi all,
I'm looking for a 34mm long cardin drive shaft so I can modify a Bachmann Class 25 chassis to the correct wheelbase to fit a Lima Class 73. I've roughly worked out that I need a 34mm drive shaft as the wheelbase is 18mm longer and the existing drive shafts are 25mm long (assuming you measure over the ends, and not just the straight part of the shaft).
I thought I would open this up to the collective wisdom of RMWeb to see if anyone knows of a source of 34mm drive shafts I could use, or better still, someone who has done this themselves already.
Many thanks in advance,
Chris
Have you tried Bachmann direct?
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7 hours ago, saxokid said:
Theres some on Ebay at the moment...
Thanks - but I've ordered some direct from Bachmann at £5 each!
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Song Title Game
in Wheeltappers
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Get It On - T Rex