Doncaster Green

Speaking as one novice to another, may I offer my thoughts? I have now constructed three chassis of this type, the 57XX, Jinty and, in progress, the J94. Apart from the advice to use the 0.5mm crankpins rather than the 0.75mm flanged ones, I agree with your list of model elements. I would, however offer my experience thus far regarding jigs and tools. I suggest you need more than 2 Axle Steeles. I use four when setting the chassis up in the jig to ensure everything is true and square and don't forget you need one to chop bits off to make the stub axles for the lay shaft. I would also suggest that you need at least two of frame assembly jig, particularly if you envisage building any chassis that don't have an assembly jig included. I have a wheel quartering jig and have successfully used it, but it does have some drawbacks. For example, you can't fit rods for brake hangers before fitting the wheels as the rods interfere with the quartering plates. Similarly, in the case of the J94, fitting the footplate supports before the wheels will also mean the jig is difficult to use. On two of the chassis I have built I have managed to quarter the wheels reasonably well using Mk1 eyeballs and a length of stiff brass rod passed through between spokes. Hope this helps. John

Progress has been made! After very carefully checking the quartering on the Jinty, the source of the decided limp has, I think, been identified. It appears that the length of plastic insulation sleeve I am using to hold the side rods on while things are checked is catching on the footplate as the wheels rotate. I will only know that this is the case when I solder on the crankpin washers, but things appear hopeful. Turning to the J94, I came to the conclusion there was a combination of errors causing the problem: 1 I had managed to twist the worm housing out of alignment; 2 the worm was too long, meaning that there was no play to allow it to mesh properly with the worm wheel and, thus, causing the worm wheel (brass on acetal) to strip material off the worm; 3 the end of the worm was not square, exacerbating 2 above. How on earth I managed to do this after already putting together two similar chassis (57xx and original Jinty) without this problem I don't know, Overconfidence? After stripping everything down, squaring things up and fitting a new worm, the chassis now appears to run nicely if a little bit noisier one way than the other. I have had to change the 7mm coreless motor for a 6mm version as I found I needed to replace the motor shaft adapter (signs of excessive wear because the worm housing was not square) and only had ones with a 0.8mm bore rather than the 1.00mm the 7mm motor needs. I can now proceed with fitting the brakegear, etc. and addressing the body/chassis interface, i.e. how I bolt the lot together! Then a great deal of touch up painting, a large percentage of the original coat having been worn away! I will then turn my attention to some body titivation. Anyone any ideas on how to remove the buffers without damaging them so I can fit the buffer beam etch? I have ordered the RT Models detailing etch so that a better impression of the LNER version can be achieved. John

One also has to ask when and how said ‘chip wrapper’ became aware of the ‘story’ and what steps they took, or did not take, to verify the facts. If the facts are as they say, surely they have a duty to involve the boys in blue themselves, or would that not suit their editorial purpose? John

As I said, hardly changed at all! Must have been taken soon after dawn, there are parking spaces! Shop on left possibly empty as McColl’s went under? John

And if I’ve got my bearings right, it’s changed hardly at all since that was taken - apart from all the cars parked everywhere!

JET 1 may or may not be on display at the Science Museum, but one of the Rover/BRM Le Mans gas turbines was certainly on display at the Heritage Motor Museum at Gaydon just pre-COVID. I believe this one is in working order and up to then had been out on display. John

Or Unit Identification Number - an invention of the Finance Bean Counters to allocate cost within the Budget Hierarchy John

This may seem like a silly question, but I've seen a number of references to an RT etch in relation to the Austerity. What does it cover and where would I get one? John

Paraphrasing Granddaughter - but may be more for me as the additional 50 years may require the odd (power) nap,

Wow! I can’t wait - only 11 more sleeps! John

Thanks for that John. It was yours I was referring to when I said I know one has been done. I've seen the thread on the VAG, but I'm currently suffering e.mail issues with Virgin Media and am not sure if I have got all the posts. Regards John

I am no expert (a read of my thread 'The Green Papers' will prove that beyond any doubt) but I am most of the way through a similar conversion, with its attendant trials and tribulations. The chassis etch comes complete with a fold up worm housing and all necessary holes for a drive train of 30:1 worm and skew cut wheel, M0.4 18 tooth gear and M0.4 14 tooth gear. You will need 10 frame bushes, 6 for the three axles, two for lay shaft that carries the wormwheel and the 14 tooth gear (muff 3-102a) and two for worm housing. The 18 tooth gear mounts on the rear driven axle (again muff 3-102a). With crankpins I was lucky as the old style flanged pin with a 0.5mm base was still available and is a direct fit for the Mk 5 wheel. Not having used them, I would assume the current 0.5mm long crankpin, going by the pic on the shop listing, mounts from the back of the wheel, possibly using a crankpin washer as a flange on the front face, but I'm open to offers there. I still have a few of the old ones sufficient for the Mk4 and Mk5 wheels I have in stock. It is definitely the 7mm frame spacer you need. The drawing on the shop 3 listing gives a good guide to the sizes needed and where to fit them. One word of warning, fitting the sandboxes before erecting the chassis in the jig that comes with the etch is OK but fitting the footplate supports should be done after as they interfere with the chassis fitting in the jig! Ask me how I know! I have used a Shop 3 7mm coreless motor and I think the flat can will also fit but may be visible below the boiler. Hope this helps John

After another lengthy hiatus, it is time to report (bore you to death with) the latest progress at Green Manor. The theme for this missive is, broadly, frustration! Frustration that anticipated modelling time has been usurped by necessary grounds maintenance (I never realised that the very small patch of earth that passes for the formal Manor Gardens could require so much looking after until there's only me to do it) and domestic duties that Lady Green is not really up to any longer. And, frustration that, probably as a result of that, what modelling has been achieved has been beset by frustrations of its own! Anyway, let's start at the top with what has been happening. First, 2mmfs the very easy way. The DCC capable class 25/1 has been converted using Association drop-in wheels, removing the N Gauge couplings and housings, fitting the various pipes and steps to the buffer beam and fitting DGs (latch, no loop). Strictly, in terms of era, I should be referring to it as a steam heat fitted BR Derby/Sulzer Type 2 as I am modelling pre-TOPS, but Class 25/1 is so much easier! The frustration element here was fitting the pipework - it kept pinging off from the tweezers and disappearing into the nether regions of the workbench! So much so that I had to raid the extras pack of another loco to finish. I then discovered I have carpet fairies with a sense of humour - a couple of days later, searching the bench for something else, I found all the bits in a neat pile right in front of me! I think, also, that I may not have the DGs sufficiently ahead of the buffer heads. After a period of running in I fitted one of the Bachmann 6 pin chips bought many years ago, plugged in the Sprog and fired up Decoder Pro. Contact! The chip was correctly identified and all the CVs could be read. I was even able to drive the loco, albeit only up and down about 2 feet of track. Now, what I know about DCC can be written on the head of a pin and still leave room for 'War and Peace', all three volumes of 'Lord of the Rings' and the complete works of the Bard of Avon; so, a very steep learning curve is in prospect. I am searching for a way of disabling the red tail lights! A further rewheel project is the Class 25's slightly older, less powerful sibling, a Class 24. The advantage with this one appears to be physical switches on the PCB to disable unwanted lights! Both of these conversions are appropriate to the era and area I am trying to model. I did notice a shout out the other day for inappropriate motive power to grace the final outing of Queensquare's colliery and thought that, while having form with coal and mineral trains, either one may be totally inappropriate for N. Somerset! Next, 2mmfs the (supposedly) easy way. A late model Farish Jinty has been treated to a set of replacement bearings, wheels and muffs as made to look so easy in the Getting Started booklet. There is a whole list of frustrations with this: Two of the body fixing screws are almost impossible to access properly with the side rods in place (on completion I will probably leave these out and rely on the two rear ones); The article refers to a Jinty conversion pack (3-700) that does not appear to be available any longer which, I assume, includes a set of replacement rods. In lieu I ordered the etch of Farish replacement rods and hoped that Farish had not changed the wheel spacing when re-engineering the chassis; The footplate is part of the chassis assembly, not the body, which means both sets of steps cause problems with the fitting and removal of rods. I have had to reduce the length of the leading crankpins to clear the front steps and I think one side may now be too short; My normal approach to quartering is to set it up two axles at a time based on the driven axle, but, as the driven axle contains the drive gear, the only way to do this without dismantling the chassis and removing the motor is to apply power - not something I would like to do with quartering in doubt. In the end I set up each axle as best I could before mounting them in chassis and then mounted the rods with only a bare running clearance on the basis that if they didn't fit the quartering needed adjustment. The quartering appeared to be correct and so began the iterative process of easing crankpin holes to eliminate any tight spots. I have now reached a point where it runs relatively smoothly but with a decided limp at the rear and I can't work out which side is the problem and whether I have not eased one side enough or the other too much. The other alternative could be that the axle muff is a little tight and rubbing on the bearing face. The back to backs are OK and all wheels appear concentric and squarely mounted. I have yet to remove the Rapidos and consider how to mount DGs. I have sourced a right angle mounting 6 pin chip (as recommended) but I'm not considering fitting that at the moment - let's get it working properly first! Thirdly, the trials of a J94. In my last post I reported this as chassis erected and checked for fit to the body. Since then the chassis has been painted, the wheels and gears mounted, the wheels quartered (using my normal method although, being rear axle drive, this was more difficult) and the rods fitted and fettled to produced a nice, free and smooth running chassis. All being good, I fitted the worm and the motor and everything went to rats. It would not run at all well. Investigation showed a lot of little black specks on the worm wheel and obvious wear on the worm. I encountered this before with the other Jinty and, after checking the concentricity of gears and their correct alignment, fitted a new worm and all was good. Not so this time and I'm working through a list of possible causes; Have I distorted the worm mounting? Is the worm too tight a fit in the mounting? Are the ends of the worm not square leading to rubbing on the bearings? One difference between the J94 and the older Jinty is the motor. The Jinty uses an Association flat can motor while the J94's propulsion is from a 7mm coreless, but I don't think that is an issue. Onwards and upwards as they say - we'll get there in the end! And once we do, I have taken delivery of this little beauty and await guidance on conversion. I know at least one has been done but I would like more evidence before taking it to bits' After all these frustrations, I am wondering whether perhaps, after a lot of coaches and locos, I should look to some track building and/or some troublesome trucks or vexatious vans as a change of scene. We will see. John

Enjoy Jerry! The weather forecast looks pretty good. I will enjoy from the comfort of an armchair, my days of sleeping in fields are long gone! Senior Management have been informed there will be, categorically, NO visit to Clarke’s Village on Saturday! John

But I don’t think he meant the coat to be quite as thick or the drying time to be quite as long !

If I were to compare to my working methods, “partially started” means all necessary bits have been assembled into a neat pile and time is being taken to admire the artistry of the etch designer and the craft of the etcher. This can last an indeterminant period! “Partially finished” means at least two components have been joined together. As additional pieces are added, over, usually, a very extended time period, the work slowly transitions from “partially finished” to “not quite finished”. The Utopian state of “finished” is always at some unattainable point in the far future! john

As we are over 3 months from my last ramblings, I feel a bit of an update is required, not that a great deal has happened. What has happened, though, is positive and progress of a sort, including diving down two worm holes that were not really under consideration back in January! Following severe Senior Management pressure and the impending descendance of visitors, a significant tidying and sorting of the spare bedroom/workshop/study/overflow storage facility (delete as appropriate) was undertaken. One major outcome of this was that I realised that I actually possess 3 airbrushes and, at the time of of tidying, none of them worked! One is a 30+ years old Hansa double action, gravity feed bought in Germany which was leaking air from a perished seal; a second is, I believe (no visible maker's name), an ancient double action Badger, acquired as part of the purchase of a pre-loved mini compressor, which was totally gummed up and the third is a Spraycraft side suction feed that I am still unsure why I bought! The Hansa ( a lovely tool) and the Badger are now fully functional and looking forward to being used in anger. Another major outcome was the realisation of the sheer amount of stuff I've acquired - perhaps some thinning is required! I also rediscovered a purchase made approximately 10 years ago in an attempt to embrace DCC technology, a Sprog 3 unit along with 4 Bachmann 6 pin decoders, and, again, never used! I don't know if I am lucky or what, but, considering when I bought it we were using Windows Vista or 7, when I plugged it in and downloaded the latest Windows 11 iteration of JMRI everything appeared to be hunkydory! The test will actually to put a chip in something and seeing if communication can be encouraged. That's two, totally, unexpected aspirations to push all the others further away. Ah well, can't be doing with a quiet life! So what has been achieved? The 'Shorty' BG has entered the paintshop and has had primer and first top coat applied (by brush!), but is not sufficiently advanced to be worth a picture. The Jinty has had its brakes and couplings fitted and touch up painting completed. The J94 is moving on a(snails)pace. The frames have been erected and it was temporarily wheeled using some plastic tube muffs to check the ride height. I was a little worried that the inclusion of the footplate support brackets would make it a little high. As seen below, I needn't have worried - it seems just about right compared to the Jinty: And seen from the other end to prove it was straight and level, not bad but maybe a little high at the front - to be addressed: Plans for the immediate future are to convert a Farish Class 25/1 with a 6 pin socket to 2FS to start playing with DCC a little. Parts are on order with Shop 3 also to convert a (much) later version Farish Jinty - the body is light years better that the cast block I've just converted! Not that I'm disappointed with what I've done, the body may be old hat and lacking in detail but I built the chassis and it runs like a dream - which is a sight better than I ever seemed to achieve in 4mm! I've also ordered parts to convert a late model 4F, if I can work out how to approach the tender. Beyond that I have visions of more converted diesels (I have already converted a 25/1 and a 24 but they don't have DCC sockets) plus, once I pluck up courage to tackle the outside waggly bits, a Fairburn 2-6-4, a 2MT and a WD using Nigel Hunt's etches. Or am I a glutton for punishment? Further reports to follow, possibly, if things happen Regards John

Having worked in an office that overlooked the back of some of these 'elegant Georgian town houses', I can honestly say 'tenements' is an apt description! 'More front than Brighton' is the phrase that springs to mind! John

Wish I could say the same, Jim. However, being but a stone's throw from chez Clifford I have to report much the same! John

On the calendar - in very big letters!

A small aspiration has been achieved! One project has made progress, having moved from the part finished pile to the paint shop queue. A Dia 282 52'6" 'Shorty' BG. It still needs door handles, grab rails and couplings which will be fitted after it passes through the paint shop. I'm quite pleased with the way this has turned out as it is a bit of a mish/mash. The sides are from a Dia 129 Non-Gangway Full Brake, the ends are Etched Pixels (slightly modified), as are the buffing plates, and the roof is a cut and shut 61'6" resin casting. This is mounted on a 51' Gresley pattern underframe and a pair of Fox pattern bogies. The clipped top buffers are 3D prints from I wish I could remember where on Shapeways a couple of years ago! It will be numbered E70555E to match a picture taken at Newcastle to be found on Robert Carroll's Flikr Rolling Stock album. One small step for man, one giant leap for my workbench!! Regards John

Proper shade of green! I’d better check the paint shop inventory. John

Aspirations! First up, I don’t do resolutions. To me, they are binary; you achieve them or you don’t, you pass or fail. Most resolutions I have made in the past have failed to endure the first 24 hours, some have survived until Jan 2nd but none have gone beyond Jan 3rd! Resolutions are like plans. There are 3 quotes I can use to illustrate resolutions: ”I have a cunning plan for that” (Blackadder) ”I love it when a plan comes together”. (The A Team) ”No plan survives first contact with the enemy” ( Could be Montgomery, Wellington or any other senior fighting General) Aspirations are a deal more fluid in that a step towards them counts as a plus. They are akin to “blue sky” thinking; in businessthink “let’s run it up the flagpole and see if it flies!”. In fact, very much like government green papers, wishful thinking about what could be done in some very vague future timescale. Hence, part of the reason for this thread’s title! So what are my aspirations? In the short term ( and probably achievable) to convert part finished projects into finished articles. Some can be done fairly quickly, like panelled coaches that are amenable to (careful) brush painting, a little touch up and crankpins on the Jinty, making interiors for coaches, etc. Some will have to wait for better weather as I have no indoor spray facilities, e.g. steel panelled stock, Gresley and Thompson. Also shortish term, design and build a scenic test track. Ideas around a, roughly 4’ 6” long, country terminus using A5, B6 and B7 turnouts to test stocks’ cornering ability are already being set to paper. One requirement is that I will have to master the use of chairplates on turnouts! Slightly longer term, but still the short side of medium, is to build on the success (?) of the Jinty and 57xx and attack the conversion chassis for a J94 and an O3/4 diesel, also a J39. More medium term is an idea for a cameo style layout based on Nottingham London Road Low Level goods facilities, centring around the original 1857 Goods and Grain store. This will utilise one, possibly two, IKEA ‘APA’ boxes I have had hanging around for a number of years. Also medium term (ish) is to sort out all that rtr ‘stuff’ in the cupboard! Also to identify what of this I have conversion axles for that I had forgotten I had bought! I have also discovered that, at some point, I bought wheels to convert 2 DMU sets, but I certainly don’t remember doing it! In slightly (much?) longer term, I intend to attempt some more etch artwork for a couple of ideas I have. I will use this thread to report progress, or lack of it! Regards John

Jim You have just given me a steer to sort out my vac pipe dilemma! Thank you. Regards John

Thanks Chris. The bolt through the centre will be hidden in the D50/299 and also the Thompson version. I think also in brake 3rd’s of 4 compartments or less . I think it could be hidden in an 8 comp 3rd with a bit if care with centre comp divider. A 1st or a brake with 5 compartments I could struggle. I need to check what I have 3D roofs for before I panic. Due to a little bit of cross kitting ( using a D129 sides with bow ends from elsewhere and taking a chunk out of a resin 61’ roof to create a D282 ‘shorty’ BG) I may have a spare 51’ resin roof; so could try straightening a 3D one by going too far the other way and holding it at that while it cools. May work!??! John