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BrushType4

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Posts posted by BrushType4

  1. Steve,

     

    Some years back I got a copy of the plans for one of the rolling bascule bridges in Birkenhead docks, and I gave some thought as to how I might build it as I redrew it from 1/4” to 7mm on the CAD. I’ve got no further, but my thinking was to laser cut the main frames from Perspex and then overlay the flanges and the fishplates. There are more rivets than you can shake a stick at, and they’re obviously an important part of the visual impact of the structure. I haven’t got a good solution for them. Other than laser cut the holes and stick pins or rivets into them. Otherwise, etching, but it’s big, thus expensive.

     

    Do you have drawings or plans of the Ranelagh road bridge? If you can get CAD, I’m sure Phil can cut the Perspex, I believe his laser is CO2 and I’m sure it’s bigger than mine!

     

    Best

    Simon

     

    Simon,

     

    My process for rivets is to laser cut Trotec (works with card too) inversely and engrave .15mm circles. These act as a guide for a riveting tool. The rivets still need to be punched out but they will be in the right place for nice straight rows. An example of rivets produced like this is the tank on the water tower further up this thread. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/38539-ranelagh-bridge-west-london-stabling-point/?p=3034198

     

    A drawing I found on the web.

    post-1485-0-09242600-1532895752_thumb.jpg

     

    and a quick cad 

    Ranelagh Bridge.pdf

     

    The rivets roughed up in magenta.

    • Like 5
  2. I've had a nose through your website, there's some great stuff for a (beginning) GE modeller like me - but not much in 4mm yet. I'm still a way off needing station buildings etc. but are you planning to release more 4mm items?

     

    Yes, will release all kits in 4mm and 2mm if we can.

  3. Simon,

     

    Just picking up on your comments about MDF, it certainly isn't all the same. It has taken me some time to find the best boards, but I now use a very hard MDF. It sucks up moisture the least so is a very consistent thickness and the laser cuts the same every time. I have found that the cheaper MDF and particularly the DIY MDF is very fibrous and will absorb moisture, and consequently a variable thickness and laserability.  

     

    Love the packing crate too. :)

  4. If the first "yes" means that you have experience of those machines how about telling us a bit more about them - such as what you can do with them that is better than a Cameo or Portrait?

     

    ...R

     

     

    I have both the Silhouette and KNK Force. Very similar types of machine. The Force is much bigger and has the nice feature of being wireless for easy uploading of files.

     

    In all honesty I haven't explored much with either cutter as I have concentrated on laser cutting. 

  5. To match our Art Nouveau Signal Box and Southern Railway footbridge, we are adding to the range a Southern Station and more standard concrete items starting with the Southern Railway Tool Store and Southern Railway PW Hut.

     

    post-1485-0-93832900-1525034425_thumb.jpg

    post-1485-0-79523400-1525034439_thumb.jpg

     

    • Like 3
  6. Modelling table loaded up ready to do a kit build demo tomorrow at the Scale 7 area show Albury.

     

    I'll take pictures of the steps and create a step by step on my workbench thread, that is if I don't get distracted!

     

    post-1485-0-79492800-1524224940_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1
  7. Looks very good!!! Are you going to look into a paint storage unit in the future? Might be interested as I can find the right one I am looking for. Angled shelves so the paints sit in just nicely and easy to spot the right colour!!

     

    We may do, we have a little 5 pot holder and looking at something a bit bigger that will fit on the modelling table along with hold tools and loco holder.

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