SMR CHRIS

Hi Bob I will find a photo of Ron's 59 and post for you, Ron said that the 59 kit was one of the smallest run kits he did so is a bit of a rarity.

Would not surprise me, Chris And I'm guessing that my bit would be close to $5000 just in material costs no labour so far and that's with out the cost of removing the trees that we are still waiting for a contractor to do they turned up hopeing they could get a crane to lift the tree that fell over the back of the house but couldn't get good enough access and would have needed one of those huge cranes anyway due to the distance from the road so they said it was down to the old fashion way by cut and drop by rope and left and haven't been back yet. We keep finding more bits that got water or wind damage that was unseen initially so I'm guessing that $5k will rise in the end. Still having to sleep in the Lounge room as if the tree in the back moves will be good by bedrooms. Not much modelling done again over the last few days, However just received some more parts for our NSWGR TAM sleeping Car kit "Bogies parts" 6 wheelers turning out to be nice castings so will knock one up and post some photos as soon as it is done.

That's right Bob We are prepared for this as we should be my Wife Shelley works for BCF (Boating Camping Fishing) so we have all the gear, power came back on yesterday (Tuesday) so made 7 days as did the Internet and phones,but we are still waiting for a Contractor to come and remove the dangerous trees. So still having to sleep in the lounge as one of the trees if it goes any further will be in the bedroom with a bit of luck can get back to do some modelling when we get everything cleaned up. The only reason the trees were still there was the local council would not let us remove however the one that they would let us remove and was one we didn't want removed is the one that has caught the tree that has fallen towards the bed room. One bonus with the trees that have come down they were the ones that would have stopped an outdoor layout due to their positioning I will now have a clear fence line Down to one of the back sheds thinking and could have a return loop under the back of the house and be able to do an out and back Little to early for decisions yet, I have a line up of modelling to complete before can even think about planning to much.

Nice work Martin got to love modellers putty can turn a pig of a kit into a something straighter than the prototype ever was. A director of one of the major preservation society's was asked to judge a model competition and his first remark on judging was that none of the model locomotives presented were even close to his preserved charges as they were all to "Perfect", no wobbly plate work perfect boiler wrapers no dents etc. Your going to have to have a interchange track on your layout from the Standard Gauge to Narrow Gauge. I'm sure you could squeeze a little track along the back scene arriving at the goods siding and a duel platform for passanger interchange. I think you need to make a start on something layout wise, it will give you a focus for an end goal for the Locos and rolling stock.

Nice work Bob in double quick time as well, A nice variation with a high sided wagon in the rake looks spot on.

Well no real modelling this week. This is the first access to Internet and is super slow. Why a very large weather front passed through causing havoc in the area, A cat 2 Cyclone it was classed as. We have large trees down some damage to the house fences gates roof etc. No power since Tuesday and have been told may be days way. Having to sleep in the lounge room as we have a large gum tree hanging over the bedroom just caught by the link of the tree next to it Have damage to the back deck or patio area that resulted in lots of water entry lucky the Layout area was able to be kept dry but the flooring etc all got very wet. So the only modelling that has been able to be done was to get out the paint brushes plus the old Humbrol tins and paint a few structures that needed doing well make a start any way, out doors in the breaks in the weather as the Modelling room is very dark. It's just like camping but in your own house. Luckly we have a large Hot water system but can't be long before the stored hot water runs out or goes cold 6 days usualy dose it on the last time we had no power for a while after a storm It's not all sunshine in the big land down under. One of the buildings painted previous it was shellacked ply wood and is from an OldDog kit avalable on Fleebay. Edit updated with two photos that I managed to get to load with the dodgy Internet access.also have a good video of the live powerline that the tree took down but it won't upload with such poor internet access Edit link to video mentioned in post https://youtu.be/kEqfbOgyeZc

Andreas it's nice when an exchange rate works for you, Down in Australia it has only been that way for a really short time about a year ago now it cost us at least 25% more for most things form O/S depending on the country of origin. As a starting point for a conversion they are very similar and the mods would be easy when compared to a complete scratch build. Thanks for the photo link.

Hi Andreas Thanks for the comment's Re the 44class The DL-500 or World Series Alco is from Auscission Models was a run of 100 models no longer available. Link http://www.auscisionmodels.com.au/KHIAC_44_Class_Page.htm However another company has done a run of the same model unfortunately it was a lot more expensive. See this link http://oaustkits.com.au as still available, go to the loco page. Another 44 Class from the stable no weathering on this one it is in the Orignal style Colour's as per how the loco is preserved.

Thanks Bob I find it's part of the hobby I really like and am not scared to start painting on a model that maybe worth thousands of dollars, I think this scares some people but I just figure it's only paint and it can be done again if everything goes wrong, most times it can be cleaned off and you just start again or you go from a lightly weathered effect to a heavy work stained effect to cover your sins. Martin you do a great job on the build of your models, if you ever want to try weathering your Welcome to trek up the coast for a day (Catch the Train) and we can have a session and do some of your models I have all the stuff needed and you will be surprised how quickly you can age a model. Even do a little air brushing if you feel game or I can do for you.Weathering is also more than just for the trains structures and model cars are a great starting point to get your eye in and try techniques before attacking an item of rolling stock For example just about everything in this scene has some sort of weathering and I'm going to do some more on the building as I only did enough to make the gaps in the concrete panels stand out and in photos it dosn't show up that it has a light dusting with the air brush but in person you can see the subtle colour dusting differences. The platform timbers were done with the aged wood wash (Mig) that I mentioned in the last post This is the 44class in full not the greatest lighting and taken with the iPad And double heading with a newly painted reverse livery version

Thanks for the Tip Martin I'm lucky enough to have an air compressor and spray gear with a booth I think I mentioned It to you in a email or on one of your threads at one stage. It's a portable spray booth that I got on line at a bargain price. It has been one of the best investments as far as model painting as I no longer have to worry about the fumes plus I can spray in enclosed areas etc. I have thought about trying some Tamya pressure packs for quick jobs so next time at the shop will look for the rubber black. On the weathering it's not that hard, painting the model is harder and more complex As an introduction start with pastels or chalks use a blade to scrape to a power then brush on or use a foam pad cheap ones for makeup are good as basically your doing what the girls do with their make up layering for more uniform coverage always cover in the direction the weather would go (use a photo) With pastels and chalks if you don't like the effect you can clean off then have another go. If you like it then seal with a spray on mat sealant or dulcote, you can find a couple of good ones at spotlight, and some Bunnings that have a craft sections (in Australia) the workable mat on right in photo is great as you spray on to give a good surface to apply the powers on say shiny plastic RTR models as a base for the weathering. Just remember generally when you seal the powers, pastels or chalks you loose some of the brightness of the colours and it will look more subdued after the mat finish applied. Just add a little more until it is to your liking. The pastels are from the Hot Dollar shop or when spotlight had a 50% off sale you can get the up market ones for the same price as the Hot Dollar shop cheapies. When you get a bit more adventurous the weathering washes are great for detail stuff like axle box grease fuel stains, water stains and rust a little goes a long way. They are expensive but they realy go a long way. I realy like one called aged wood wash its is a lot more universal than for just wood. Keep an eye out for the products to be on sale and then "Give it a go". After that you can move on to air brushing

No paint but the yard shunter is now testing his new Shunting truck to make sure all is good before it gets painted. I was lucky enough to spend the afternoon with a few local modelers having a what are you modelling session with Kits, ideas and products used talked about its amazing how often you over look some item and another can come along and say have you tried "XYZ" I used it on this model I built. Only thing was it took the time the painting should have been done in. Any way the shunter is looking pleased with the new addition to his yard

The Parcel Post man made a delivery this morning of a Turn Table so final planning can now start on the Loco Shed layout. It's much bigger than anticipated with a deck of 610mm long scales out in 7mm to 87foot just big enough to fit the NSWGR 57class the TT is an Atlas one it is motorised and also has had some details added by the previous owner to make it more Australian Looking It's not a scale model but it will do the job and if in the future If decide to build a scale TT a 90foot one it can take its place without to much modifications. Shunter's truck progress. We best laid plans didn't turn out , my Wife Shelley decide it was too nice a day to stay inside (it was) so we had a drive up the coast and a picnic lunch by a river. So no more detail parts added to the shunter's truck, but one good thing I didn't need a trip to the hobby shop as I found a brand new tube of 0.5 brass wire hiding in the old Oktoberfest beer glass I ues to keep tubes of wire in, I was sure it wasn't their was but another look hopefully will get some work done during today and fingers crossed in the spray booth.

Got a bit more done on the Shunter's Truck today still have a little to do however got to the point that I couldn't keep working on it due to my Spinal injury issues pain level got a little out of control. Just a few more detail parts to be fitted but ran out of 0.5 brass wire with just one coupler release bar fitted. A trip to the shop required to get some more. Need this for the train air pipe and the triple valve rod Also need to do the last step on the hand brake end this is 0.8 brass and have plenty of that left. Have also got to fit the a pair of buffers I had left off as thought I had a set of sprung buffers but when I found them they were not the correct type for a S truck. Lastly need to fit the boards across the truck mounted to the door frame and then it's off to the spay booth hopefully in the afternoon. Under side detail includes brakes, actuators rodding , air brake cylinder, working hand brake wheel with chain link to actuator. Also represented are the safety loops that were fitted incase one of the links or rods failed Shunter's running boards with brackets soldered up to suit With a bit of luck will get it to painting stage tomorrow fingers crossed.

That's tops Bob makes you realise how much space is required to run good size trains in O scale. Although I like little branch line formations there's nothing better than watching a nice long train trundelling past on the layout.

Hi Martin going to use Kadee one end, on the other procraft coupler's both with with the transition link mounted on it and yes will oversize the links as this is going to be a working vehicle I will use the Waratah D link and the rest hand made or if I find some more Slaters at the bottom of the parts box will use those to make it easy no work involved just fit. For the step brackets I'm going to make up some step brackets using brass left over from the side of an etch found in the bits-n-peices box this wagon is a little easier than your one as I don't have to fit the rail and decking just some internal timbers across the doors to hold in a barrel of grease and some tools. Procraft with transition link Kadee mounted on another wagon with made up transition link And a procraft with the link behind the locking pin I find putting it in front of the pin gives just that little but more lenght and makes it easier to couple as I the top photo.

Hi Bob the station looks great I just realised looking at the photo that as far as O scale platforms goes not many people model a full lenght often due to space issues using the scene entry to only model part of a station platform or having to compress the the scene to be able to fit in you will have to post a photo with a loco hauled passenger train at the platform. One of the best things about heading out doors the space for nice long trains and In your case even scenic's on the out side section of the railway. Looking good

Thanks Bob Yes was one of those things, ran out of wagons with duel couplings so decided the shunter's truck was started why not just finish it should be a quick build "as an easy build kit" then Paint /Decal and on the railway and can then be a dedicated shunter's truck so no more "I just used the last 3 link coupled wagon on a train" and then not be able to shunt with the Hook only locos until the next train arives back with a transition link / Kuckel coupler fitted. Re Bobs Coal train Great to know that the rest of the parts for the Hoppers arived the first one looked good, so how good is a train load of them going to look running on the railway, at the speed You work Bob you will have them finished before the paint dries on my shunter's Truck I'm aiming for Thursday as want to have a running session on the railway that afternoon. Decided to make a deadline on this so as not to get distracted with other projects.

L273 a shunter's Truck A while back on Hartleymartin thread on his O scale stuff Martin started a L shunter's truck and after supplying Martin some photos that I had found for my own version of the same conversion from a S wagon to L shunter's truck we decided Martin would do his one as L774 and the one I had started to build would become L273 with each truck being very different in its internal treatment. So with some other projects underway I wasn't planing to do any more with my Version of L273 until I realised I needed another transition Coupled vehicle (knuckle coupler with 3 link attached) for shunting that I decided, "no time like the present" pulled out the kit that had, had the doors cut but that was it and made a start on finishing. This is what it will end up like L273 So far the cutting out of the doors has been finished off then with doors removed the floor edge was then made to represent the ends of the floor timbers using a fine hobby knife blade to cut the gaps between the planks. Then the one peice cast white metal sole bar with W irons + axle boxes along with the wheels where fitted to the floor. Next the brake shoes were drilled ready to accept the linking rods, after fitted when the glue had cured, it was out to the Railway for some quick tests of the rolling Chassis all was good so it is now down to fitting the relevant detail parts and undercarriage parts. Progress so far see photos below Well there's not much to the kit so it's an easy build the only adjustment is due to my choice of fitting finer North Yard Wheel sets instead of Slaters ones the kit was designed around. There are a few slight differance in the kits between the one Martin is doing and this one as they are the same model by 2 different manufactures. Tomorrow should see the rest of the buffers fitted and the under side brake gear completed before attention is turned to the inside fit out of the truck and the shunter's steps below where the wagon doors had been. More photos as L273 progresses

Your Right on the money Martin They trialled on the Central West Express and a photo dose exist of one in the platform at the head of the CWE after having just arived at Sydney Central, someone sent me a link to the photo but I can't find it to give you the number of the loco. I'm still looking if I fined it, I will post it.

Martin your going to have to remind me, who else was going to do the FO and CCA! I know the Oaust's one was a while coming it ended up being a quite a nice model if a little too expensive. Big river had the masters basically finished for the FO's but when Oaust announced they were going to do it they were not finalised but are still there may be revisited one day with the CCA if it dosn't end up being done by Oaust I'm going to be doing a one peice cast roof and new end tops above the doors as infills to match the open roof, to suit the Fox FO castings and will look at a one peice floor for the cars as well this will update the Fox Castings, sides & ends to a more accurate model. On a lighter note Over on another site Hartlymartin form here, reminded everyone of the model railway rules And I will quote him below "People seem to forget rules of the hobby: Rule 1: My railway, my rules. Rule 2: If in doubt, see rule 1." With that as an excuse this ran on the layout to night The Loco is a NSWGR 58class referred to as the mountain class as they were for heavy hauling of freight over the range and only on the odd trial or tour train did they ever haul passanger services. With a Tractive effort of 55,008 lbf the little timber end veranda cars buffer beams would have been in danger of being turned into matchsticks.

Top work with that talc base and the loco pit walls Jonathan, Steve's tip for the talc from Cardiff Canton build, was a really good one and it gets the effect of the oil soaked ash around loco yard pits and track a treat. Post 281 from link below for any one else who likes the effect or their yard or shed http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67423-cardiff-canton-from-inception-to-model-rail-cover/page-12 Itching to start my "Shed" project now but have to wait for the TT before finalising the plans. Keep up the pace your doing great.

Hi Bob great to see your posts on your layout here , this RM web format is much easier to post than Yahoo. I'm sure you will get some good interest on here it full of modellers that actually love to model. I started a post for my O scale modelling musings http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97814-7mm-modelling-down-under/ Will follow this with interest. Chris

Thanks Martin the 20 is scratch built from brass and plastic, Col Shepard dome and chimney and some castings I'm giving it a make over that has included lowering the body to the correct hight 3.5 mm lower resoldering some of the body joints a DC / DCC compatible conversion some Oaust lost wax castings to replace some old castings like the smoke box door dart and head light also need to build a back head as dosn't have one at all thinking may contact peter at Oaust and get a 30 class one and modify. I feel the DCC sound in ths loco has come out realy good reproduction wise with speaker position and insulated mounting using 3M double sided tape rolled to make a mount in 4 spots seems to have done the trick no resonance through the body. Re the KR models Kit of a 20 class Martin at the forum just gone, John Parker said a peice on behalf of Kerian Ryan that the model kit would be out September that got a big Laugh from the gallery also we were told that he would update the web page for it http://7mmz20classloco.blogspot.com.au on the first of April obvously an early April fools day joke as the site is still years out of date, also John said that the BMT kit would be out this I made a mistake with 2 years ago he had the tank parts, saddles just no frame for sale for about $25 should have got the bits and scratched a fame from styrene but though wait and get the full kit with bogies frame etc (was only a mouth way according to Kerian) but it won't come with bogies now anyway so will have to buy a set of Warratah. 2 years ago Kerian tried to get me to put a deposit on a 20 class saying it would be out in a few Months I declined and told him when and if he did get the kit to that stage I would get one. I know of 2 people that paid a deposit when it was first announced one hell of a long wait the PSM C38 is turning into a similar situation has been 3 years since I orded it. As far as putting a kit into production I know a little bit about it with the work on the TAM Car We have been working on the Big River Models TAM car for a year and the only things holding us up now, are parts that are not done in house, that don't get made to the exact specifications on the suplied drawings and have to be re done several times like the springs and Axle boxes made 1mm over size all round they think it's just a toy train and the parts endup getting done in house but some times the other option of getting a specilist to do, you would think to be quicker and cheaper but ends up costing in the long run trials and tribulations of bringing a kit to market

Just took another quick Video without the rain With the 20class with WOW by TCS sound.

Well it's the Easter Long weekend and the Rain has not let up all day so started a DCC sound conversion on an old loco got it to a running stage so did a quick video. The noise in the back ground ist the rain on the roof Link below The Loco is a NSWGR 20 class that was scratch built mostly from brass and plastic. Originally it had a my loco sound unit for DC opperation For the DCC conversion I also fitted a switch so the loco could be also run on straight DC bypassing the decoder to get the best control on DC the Decoder used Is TCS Wow sound so no sound when used on DC anyway. The switch I decided to mount in the coal bunker that had coal fitted long ago using urethane to bond it in place this ended up being a challenge to remove however this was done by drilling lots of small holes and using a die cutter bit, a small amount of soldering to the brass bunker was required to mount the switch which fits neatly and will be hidden by the new coal Load made removable by using black soft foam with real coal bonded to it a much better method as stops any issues with Real Coal and glue creating an acidic reaction that can result in corrosion. The inside of the bunker has now had a repaint and the switch works as intended The loco's smoke box end also got a new headlight a lost wax Casting and will also get a new lost wax smoke box dart to replace the flat impression cast on the door casting. When I find where I put the castings. The Head light will get a LED to illuminate and the hole from the old wireing will get filled. Jobs for another day. Nice clear sound from the speaker positioning in the front of the tank section Also got some decals sleeping on my 72ft TAM Sleeping car Happy Modelling