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jdp298

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  1. If you want to run a lot of street lights, then grain of wheat bulbs aggregate pretty quickly. By the time you've got 20 or 30, that's actually adding up to a fair amount of current. There are other chinese suppliers - www.hezhiqing.com is my preferred one, that will sell you cheap warm white LED lamps and lights. There are a lot (and more to follow) on mine, so in the end I went with a 12v 5A separate supply from cpc.farnell.com - PW0391003 . You should expect to cut off the plug and wire it into something you can use. Also means all the things meant to run trains only do that.
  2. I've not needed the more modern ones, but http://www.hezhiqing.com have provided me with a lot of cheap and reliable streetlights to date. I've used the H8, 11 and 18 so far, plus bulk orders of SMD and enamel-wired 5mm LEDs too. All in warm white.
  3. Just catching up with this one. Long time since I saw someone build a G16. Mine was the Falcon Brassworks one, and it wasn't as easily done as yours. There was also a mistake in the etching where the radius rod passed through the slidebar holder, but you seem not to have had that problem. Overall very well done.
  4. In your plan, the LEDs are in parallel, so the total current through the resistor should be higher, but the voltage required will be the same a single LED (or lower than if they were in series). Using a 10k like you have with single LEDs will work, but they will be a bit dimmer. It might be what you're after; many are the examples of a correctly weighted resistor giving me an aircraft searchlight on the layout rather than a reasonable streetlight glow.
  5. I dont have decent photos of the wiring, but here are the control panel instructions for our one at my folks' place. When I say control panel, I really mean the loose collection of boxes and switches roughly geographically co-ordinated. It's not over either. Current efforts centre on running lighting around the place, meaning more wires and more small boxes.
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