latestarter

Thank God you put it in language a beginner like me can understand! Had you used any technical jargon, I would have been lost! 🤣

Now that my DCC layout is 95% ready, I have decided that I will 'power' some of the 18 points on the layout, maybe starting with 4 that I use most, and in such a way that allows me to stay at the controller end of the baseboard - so manual changing is not an option. My local model shop guy suggested Hornby solenoid point motors, and a DCC accessories controller to be used with my Hornby Select DCC controller. That's as far as I've got, other than, if possible, I'd like to avoid buying a new main controller. Can someone suggest if this is feasible and point me towards how it is all wired up - as simply as possible. :) Thanks, Stephen

Thanks again Robin. Would you believe that I bought my first dremel-like power tool last week, I've just put the thinnest bit I have on it, and drilled some holes in the sleepers outside the rails and secured them. Again, it's not perfect but most of the time the Dapol large Prairie is passing through at about 15% power.

I've just got around to testing your theory, and I reckon you're on to something! Using the first photo (in the OP) photo as a reference, the nearest rail to the camera is raised about 3 - 4mm off the baseboard. If I press on the sleepers sticking out from under the rail to the left of the plastic washer (now removed), I can get a 'stuck' loco to start up again. My issue is knowing exactly where and how to pin the track down. It seems to me that it needs to be lowered on that side, but presumably not too far!

Hi Robin, good to hear from you again. It's happening on straight-through. I haven't tried it on diversion. Actually, the two locos were not coupled up when I ran through through 'together'. Maybe I misunderstood the advice on that point (pun intended). I ran one after the other, at the same time, with a few inches / seconds between the first one passing through and then the other. As mentioned, the biggest headache I have with this, is that the problem is not 'easily replicated' (as we used to say when I studied research). It doesn't happen the same way every time. Sometimes the same loco will stick completely, or stick and move or not stick at all.

Thanks again. I've copied this out and will have a proper read and a second look at the photos in the morning.

Thank you for the great feedback - and encouragement! :)

Thanks again. This is my first (ever) layout started 8 months ago at the age of 66. I knew nothing about model railways, or electrics, or making hills from bubble wrap, or static grass, or ballasting etc, etc when I started. I don't even own a Dremel. But, I like 'learning curves', so I'm going to buy one and give it a go.

Much appreciated. I looked at your other post but, as you say in it, it will probably make more sense to me when the photos are uploaded.

Thanks for the suggestions! I don't have a 'heritage Lima' (I think you saw the weathered Bachmann Ivatt). I put my Hornby Ruston in front of the Dapol Large Prairie (recent model, bought in Jan 22) and ran them over the point together, at the 2nd power setting on the Hornby Select controller - slow, but not dead slow. They both ran over the point without stopping backwards and forwards. I tried this 3 times with no problems. This is the puzzling issue for me; one run can be fine and the next time they stop.

I've had a problem with Hornby standard points, in one way or another, since I started my layout 8 months ago. However, there is one particular set of LH points that is causing most of my locos to stick on them, at slow speeds. The only loco (including Hornby, Bachmann and Dapol) that doesn't stick is the tiny Hornby Ruston shunter. I have tried several remedies, including making sure the track is dead level with washers and rubbing down parts of the plastic frog (see photos). Sometimes (the same) loco will pass very slowly both ways, but then forwards but not backwards, and then, on other occasions, not at all. 1) Could it be the plastic channel at the closest rail in the photo? 2) Would it be a real problem to remove and replace that point in the layout, as I have it now? If not, could I replace it with a straight? Ignore the missing rail in the close up image. It fell off yesterday, but the function of the point has not changed, for the better or worse. Thanks for any suggestions.

Thought you might like to see the programming track I came up with...complete with a station, road, 70's saloon, wiring and rubber feet! A mini layout in itself! I think it counts as 2nd build, ever. Overkill maybe?

I had my Dapol Class 5101 'Large Prairie' 2-6-2T 4134 on a new 'programming track I made, yesterday, to change the address. It has since started making a strange, low whirring noise when running. It's DCC but not TTS. I changed other addresses on other locos and they are not making similar sounds. A short video showing the issue IS AT THIS LINK Thanks in advance for any suggestions as to the cause and cure.

That's simple enough, even for me. Thank you very much!

I'm trying to find instructions for making a simple, portable DCC programming track, for use with a Hornby Select controller and, ideally, with the one I have connected to the layout. Or, I could buy a 2nd controller if needed. The YouTube videos I've seen are over-complicated for my limited electronics and layout building knowledge and skills. Can anyone point me to a straightforward how-to guide please?

Thank you!

Thanks for that, do you have a link to the instructions, as I can't find anything on the Digitrains website - I've been looking before you replied, and again just now. The 2 page sheet I have, is for the decoder as I stated in the OP. The CV for volume is listed as 266. there's nothing about CV's 517 to 692, or overall volume functions (F27/28) on it. UPDATE: I found the 'notes' by @pauliebanger on the ZS002A 2MT ACTIVEDRIVE SOUNDFILE FOR ZIMO DECODERS page on the Digitrains website, and have printed it. I'm still trying to find something about overall volume levels, but this is all very new to me!

I bought a pre-owned Bachmann Ivatt 2MT class Ivatt fitted with (according the paperwork) 'Digitrainsound Standard Class 2MT Multi-Drive version 1.0 TTS decoder by Paul Chetter' @pauliebanger . The main sound functions (F1/On-Off, F2/whistle etc) seem to work fine, other than F5 - the 'sound set toggle', which to my ears makes no difference in the chugging sounds at all. My main issue, is that I can't get the CV's to work, when used with the Hornby Select controller (Version 2.0). For example, CV 266 on the Zimo is to adjust volume but no matter which setting I try up to 255 (max) it always sounds at the same level (probably about 3 on a scale of 1 to 10). It won't even turn off. I'd welcome any thoughts on what the issue might be. I've successfully adjusted CV's on Hornby decoders with the Select controller.

The clue to my level of experience is in my forum name. So I know nothing about CVs, or changing them. But I don't think I've done too badly to go from knowing absolutely nothing at all about model railways 8 months ago, to the layout in the photo above I completed a month ago. I'm at the stage where I am trying to make it run smoothly and well enough for me to actually play trains. I'll think about more advanced gear a bit further down the line (pun intended). Bank balance allowing. My next plan is to motorise the points, over the winter.

Thank you very much for that. Yes, I'm using the Hornby Select; fairly basic but it's version 1.6 which does allow for CV changes. That might be the problem, because I've done some already but can't remember which locos. I've got 6 locos on the layout right now (all I possess), so I've have a got at your settings in the morning, as it will take a while to remove and then re-rail the others.

Can anyone advise if there are CV's I can set for smoother slow running of the R3395 TTS 'Railroad' Mallard? I find it runs fine most of the time, but it gets very jerky when trying to couple to carriages and wagons. Thanks for any suggestions.

That did it! Thank you very much. I tried to flatten it the best I could, and it's running very smoothly now. Tips on how to get it very flat, would be much appreciated. Thanks again for the help :)

I was running my 'Aberdonian' today and it started making a click noise from the wheels/rods. It then froze completely and hasn't moved since. The wheels also do not rotate at all when pushed by my fingers. I have had an issue with the rods jamming in the past, but can usually see where they are overlapping or have come out of a 'slot'. I can't see anything amiss right now. If anyone could look at the photos and tell me if they can see the cause, I'd be very grateful!

TY but DTYGTSE

Thanks for all the advice Jason. I'll look in the box to see if the couplings are there, when I'm back home. Not sure what ISTR is - abbreviations are definitely not my thing. Could be from teaching under-graduates to write essays with proper English :) The rod connecting the wagon broke away a few months ago, and I removed it. I asked Hornby for a replacement, but they (eventually) sent me the connecting wires instead, which were not damaged in the first place. BTW (my only abbreviation), I know Southport very well. I'm originally from Prescot, but now live in another 'port', Portmagee, in South Kerry, Ireland.