quattroman41

Following on from the above I have had a problem in resetting the decoder address and subsequent loss of red lights on unit PC-2. With the whole train on the programming track using a Hornby Elite I first attempted to read the existing address but it was unreadable. This is my normal procedure when buying a new loco or checking a decoder prior to installation. I then reprogrammed the APT-E to 153 and put it back on the main line with a Lenz 100 system. It responded to the new number but unfortunately the red lights on PC-2 did not work. I returned it to the programming track but this time with only PC-1 and an intermediate bogie on the track and did a factory reset. I returned it to the main line, it responded to decoder address no.3 and the red lights on PC-2 worked correctly. I then returned it to the programming track with only PC-1 and the first intermediate bogie on the track and reset the address to 153. On returning it to the mainline it worked perfectly on address 153 with red lights on PC-2. This is not the first time I have problems programming multiple units with the Elite however I do not know what difference it makes to programming by having the whole train on the track or by having just PC-1 and one bogie. It may just be an Elite problem but it may help others similarly affected.

Great model, however I struggled to assemble PC-1 to TC-1. It says you might in the instructions. You can see the plastic clip which must be connected so I lubricated the joint prior to assembly using Hob-E-Lube Lite oil applied with a straightened paper clip in a minute quantity. This oil states that it is plastic compatible on the packaging. It appeared to be easier to assemble the rest of the coaches or I may have just acquired the required knack. As they say, do so at your own risk. My apologies if this has appeared elsewhere in the APT-E thread.

After not using my lightweight DMU for a while it refused to move although the internal lights worked. These I understand are permanently on and cannot be turned off using the function buttons. I removed the top, tried it again and it moved normally. Refitted the top and again it would not move. I changed the chip. No difference, not working when the top was fitted, working when the top was removed. I bent the internal light contacts so they would not touch when the top was fitted (no internal lights) and it moved normally. So now I have a DMU with no internal lights in the power car but at least it moves. Has anyone else experienced this problem ?

Hi Charlie To be honest this was this most difficult chip fitting I have done up to now. Although difficult is probably not the best word. It is probably that the one that has required the most care in order not to break off any of the individually fitted parts. I managed to break off what is possibly a suspension damper detail adajcent to the wheels. Also a half internal bulkhead and a seat fell out as the outer shell was lifted clear. As did a bulkhead glazing unit. Possibly not all my fault. All have been refitted with solvent glue. The outer shell was 'stuck' at the cab end to the chassis in way of the light pipes and was awkward to release. Strangely the lighting bar was easily removed and not glued to the bulkhead as reported by the Duxford Oracle. Unfortunately I also had a mangled spring on the wheel unit but a replacement was quickly supplied by post by your goodself. I needed to super glue the new spring to its plastic spigot to stop it falling off on re-assembly. All the others where already glued on. Care had to be taken on re-assembly to ensure the wheel unit bases were horizontal or the springs would not fit into their alloted holes. The base unit, seating unit and outer shell snap back together easily. My thanks to contributors to RMWEB on this topic. I would try chipping again if I were to buy another 144. I have learnt a lot. Alan

Following this post I fitted mine as above and confirm the directional lights work correctly.

Any news on which is No 1 pin on the decoder socket yet ?

I bought my Class 144 from Dave on the D&E Videos stand at the Barrow Model Railway Exhibition on 12/10/2013. It is the purple Northern with red seats. It is a really nicely detailed model. I have run it in on DC on an oval track with 2nd radius curves tacked onto a board solely for this purpose since my layout is end to end. It goes Ok round the 2nd radius curves but does make sqeaking noises when the power power car is pushing the non-pwer car. No noise when running the other way. The motor is quite noisy compared to other modern locos I have. The un-powered car wheels initially squeeked when turned by hand so against the advice given in the instructions I oiled the axles sparingly with Hob-e-lube Lite Oil from Woodland Scenics. This cured the squeaking. But not when the power car pushes the un-powered car. Hopefully this should not be a problem on my end to end since the radii are larger than 2nd radius. I will be fitting with a DCC chip shortly.