Rick-H

I have exactly the same set up. I fitted one point switch, which I supplied the common with 0volts. Then a wire from each of the other two contacts back to the control panel. In the panel I connected a LED and a 15k resistor in series to each wire (x 2) to the +12volts. This gave me the AD and B.C. indication.

If you would like a circuit diagram let me know.

You do not need to change a thing. If you have point indicators wired one way and signals wired the other all you need is a simple diode / transistor interface to convert one to the other. I have used them on my layout with no problem at all.

If you would like a circuit diagram please let me know.

I use the grey cardboard from cornflakes package.

Cut to a rectangle larger than the hole. With small holes cut out for the securing tabs and the actuation pin.

Then fit it between the point and motor (can be fitted after the point is laid but before fitting the motor).

No sag and takes glue for ballast very well.

Rick

As I live in France I have been subscribing to the electronic magazine for a number of years. Today I received an email from BRM offering a free copy of the May issue, which I already have through my subscription. Assuming that this email is a general one to all, this means that I will be paying the full 12 issue price for only 11 issues. Hopefully BRM will extend my subscription by one month before they automatically renew it! Anyone else see this as a problem?

Rick

Tony,

Like Harold, I have a large number of PL13's fixed to Hornby point motors over the last 5 years with no problems with switching.

However, I did not glue the PL13 to the motor. I thought it may give me alignment issues. What I use is the ties that the Wife gets with her freezer bags. I rap one each end of the switch around the motor housing. This secures the switch, however leaves enough slack so that the switch does not affect the motor and enables easy dismantling if required.

Hope it helps

Rick