MattR

Thanks for your help! I'd rather it be my apparently wimpy controller than such an otherwise nice-running locomotive.

Looks like the controller's output to the track is 0.6 amps. The only other controller I have is an old Tyco Tyco-Pak rated at 1 amp. I used to have a Hornby Sir Dinadan that would overload this controller the same way the Fleischmann is doing to the Bachmann one.

The wall power pack (remember I am in the U.S.) reads "Input: AC120V 60Hz 24W. Output: AC16V 1000mA." Do I need a more powerful power supply?

Since technically the locomotive is drawing too much power and overloading the controller (and not really shorting out the track due to a short circuit somewhere) I've reworded the original post to be more accurate.

Love that you can hear Ocean Colour Scene's "The Day We Caught The Train" playing in the warehouse. One of my favorite songs!

Good idea! Unfortunately I'd have to get a pinion gear puller to get the commutator out of the housing, as well as a remagnetizer. Another good idea. I'll have to look up how to do that on my multimeter. I guess a replacement motor sounds like the best option, but I'm not seeing any on eBay. Apparently there used to be an Australian company called Motortorque that made CD motor replacements for Fleischmann ringfield/pancake motors, but they went out of business 10 years ago.

- Run #5 (boiler forward, counter-clockwise) : 10 minutes 20 seconds - Run #6 (boiler forward, counter-clockwise): 12 minutes 24 seconds The controller gets very hot and then the circuit breaker inside trips. You unplug it and in resets after 2-3 minutes. Heat from loco motor is barely discernible.

Not that I can see. I've added lots of insulation tape around areas where wires come in contact with metal, but no changes. Removed the weight (which sits on a plastic spacer over the metal valve-gear brackets -- nothing. I decided to time it to see how long it takes to short out the track - Run #1 (boiler forward, clockwise): 7 minutes, 28 seconds - Run #2 (boiler forward, clockwise): 4 minutes 57 seconds - Run #3 (bunker forward, counter-clockwise): 9 minutes, 12 seconds - Run #4 (bunker forward, counter-clockwise): 4 minutes, 9 seconds

I was able to pick up that Vitrains Class 47 with the wonky buffer beam for £39. Not a bad deal at all for something that just needs a bit of cosmetic repair.

Re-writing this post to more accurately describe what's happening. Recently I picked up Fleischmann’s H0 BR 70 (model number 4016) with the old Ringfield-style motor. I serviced it and it runs great (albeit noisy) -- smooth, good at low speeds, good torque/pulling power However, it runs fine for a bit (see times in later posts), then overloads the controller and trips the circuit breaker in it (I use a Bachmann trainset controller, which I have three of on different layout and never had any issues with them). The controller gets very hot before tripping. The locomotive feels normal, just a little warm as normal. I’m new to Fleischmann — does anyone who knows these motors have an idea of where to start looking to remedy this, short of buying a whole new motor?

Thanks again for recommending the book! It arrived today from the L&YR Society. Some really excellent stuff in there, and the clear photo of Summerseat signal box alone is worth the price of admission.

Exactly! Building a Wills signal box kit, for instance, would be seen as "proper modelling". I couldn't find a kit that matched the signal box I wanted to build, so I used TinkerCAD to create one based off my references. Took about a week. Then I 3D printed out all the parts (including several test prints), essentially a kit that now requires cleanup, paint and assembly. So it's still "proper modelling" except now I'm the kit designer and producer on top of the kit builder. We got the 3D printer for Christmas and I had never done printing before. I've only been learning how to use TinkerCAD since the day after Christmas.

Definitely. I think I'm going to empty the trunk today.

Speaking of which -- I just saw this photo today this morning on Peter Fisher's Smugmug page -- is this the result of a fire as well? https://peterfisher.smugmug.com/History/Rawtenstall-train-related/i-QQc8KNT/A

Viaduct successfully ripped out, dismantled, rebuilt wider, added a wider portion at the back of the layout and all track reglued. This was a job I had been putting off since the summer and was holding up production. Now I can ballast the rest of the track and start finishing the front half’s scenery. The line is reopened by the Class 105 with homemade headcode and custom destination blind transfers from Railtec.

25083 ceremonially hauls in the ballast repair train before I rip out the viaduct for widening and sort out the wonky track on the rear of the layout.

For the last week or so, I’ve been pouring over images of the Summerseat signal box and other L&YR boxes with a view of 3D modeling a “kit” of the signal box that I could print off on the 3D printer. Tonight the final pieces were printed and it’s all ready for paint.

Awesome! I’ve often thought if I ever do a big shunting layout, it’d be one based on the 1890s John Olive & Sons Springside Wagon Works or the brick factory that took its place. Even after the buildings had long gone, the lone disused siding there was still referred to under John Olive’s name.

I’ve gotten the book on order, so it should be a big help. Speaking of Olive’s Siding, does it have other info on the old signal box that was once there?

Don’t be sorry, that is great news! I had thought about getting that book but I wasn’t sure Summerseat would appear in it. Thank you!

Excellent! Do you know any more or have any photos of the box?

Same here! As a dedicated FOMO Hattonsist, it ain't over 'til the fat lady sings!

Fascinating! Thanks for this information. It will definitely help when I get around to putting an interior inside.

I definitely voted for the platform seating. Lots of companies make the simple GWR-style benches, but I'd love to see the LMS style with the curly arm rests and legs. Very delicate, I'm sure, but would look beautiful.

I'm in the process of trying to build an OO version of the old Summerseat signal box (demolished in 1970) and I've come across a few oddities (sorry for the grainy photos -- they're the best I have of it). #1 - According to research, this box was built in 1922, during the one year that the L&YR was owned by the LNWR, however, it appears to be a L&YR-style signal box and not LNWR, correct? #2 - The chimney for the stove comes out of front of the roof right above the front windows. I can't find a photo of a signal box of any kind with this type of arrangement. Surely the stove wasn't in front of the lever frame, right? I'm assuming then that the stove was in a different area of the box interior with bent piping to allow it to exit the roof in such a spot?