torikoos

Should be out shortly according to Matt at Loksound USA...

Indeed he wrote me a message last week when I asked and wrote: ' It is very close, I need about 2 hours work to fine tune it, problem is finding those 2 hours, hopefully before the weekend'.  

That weekend has passed but it does indicate it is almost ready, it may take a few more days or weeks for him to get around to it, that's all. 

I like that modification Simon, I've redrawn it, using a Y to smooth it out even further, although I admit my drawing skills need to improve and could trim the curves a bit more, but the idea is clear enough.

Always a good idea to lay things out before commiting to buy and build, I'm going to do the same.

Hi Simon, 

No I don't have the double slip yet, I 'glued' it in there during the track plan evaluation, trying to keep the track length as long as possible.  I am aware that they are not as common in the US, but any railroad would prefer not to use them as they are expensive etc. 

Yes there are two lines approaching from the left.  The outer comes from 'staging' (rest of world), the inner is visible and comes from another 'town' with a few small industries.  These two tracks eventually join up again at the curved turnout on the right, so there are two loops going around at present. It gives me the option to both have something moving if I feel like it and sit back to watch, but also to operate.

In any case, what you're suggesting would look like this:

Koos

Usually a branchline/regional line,  era roughly early 80's, sometimes early 90's depending on which roster I put on the layout.

I've already changed the turnout leading to the service facility into a right hand one, such that the 'main' has the 'straight' and not the diverging route.

As above.

Hi all,

I've recently started to redesign half of my layout, as I'm not happy with the way it operates. It was originally designed as a switching layout, but I expanded it and as such, and not in a good way, so the operational potential is not ideal. Besides, I've since learned more on operations, and it's something I'd like to try and encorporate more of on my new track plan.

I've developed the plan in stages, and I'd like to show you where I'm at now. 

Version 1:

Version one has all the basics , but is lacking in two things, there’s no drill track although the spur between the left yard ladder and the two curved turnouts could function as that. This track could also accommodate cabooses or road power waiting for the next assignment.

So , developing on from that is version 2:

I worked on this version a bit more, to highlight the reason why the yard is ‘bend’, a chimney is the reason.  I have changed the left yard area to incorporate a yard drill track, which will enable switching with additional flexibility to operate the main and siding.   A turnout was replaced by a double slip crossing, enhancing operations further, but also still retaining the track for caboose or road power.  Road power, now also have a servicing facility to park up, by adding another turnout in the main.

Version 2 can still be further enhanced, by moving the curved turnouts further into the curve, giving more space for the ‘caboose track’, and a bit more distance between the curved turnout and the most left yard ladder turnout, which will improve operations/ reliability.

On the right hand side, the left-hand turnout could be replaced by a right-hand turnout immediately after the most right one. This will extend both the siding and receiving track by about 1 car length.

This could then be version 3, and would look like the trackplan below.

Any other suggestions are welcome. A few notes however, this is situated in my loft. Those of you familiar with UK houses, know that for some unbeknown reason (well, that reason would be quick and easy construction/cost) there's a plethora of beams and girders in the way, so I need to 'flow around those'.  Why they can't use heavier beams and get rid of all those inverted W shape constructions... it would be far more useful doing that... 

Koos

Welcome to the world of WOW Phil. Indeed, very nice. Operating it in prototype mode is fun too, no movement unless you release the brakes, and then apply brakes if you want to stop in time, otherwise the pair will just keep on coasting to an eventual stand still (long past the point you wanted), or land 5 feet down on the floor...

Coastal DCC (Kevin D), highly recommended, for service AND pricing!

Huh... if only it were that simple... Just had a very frustrating couple of hours trying to get the running right.

Autotune - nah, doesn't do it at all. I think the problem may be it's a twin motor "China Drive" loco. Had to turn the BEMF off - it makes a horrid noise, and that smoothed things out a bit, but for start voltage CV2 I'm up around value=88 or so, and still can't get it to start smoothly at all; it starts off with a jerk on about speed step 10 (in 28-steps) and although it can be wound back to crawl a bit jerkily at speed step 2 or so, but once stopped, won't move again until wound up to 10 again....

 

All very frustrating; more study of the manual needed and a few more CVs to switch off most likely!!

Everyone else gets their locos to crawl smoothly... why can't I..???

 

Edit. forgot to say, wiring the motors in series helped a bit as well, but still not as good as my TCS Wowsound-fitted GP35 (also series-wired twin motors) or Nick Pallette's SD35 with a Loksound XL in it (probably parallel wired?)

I'm going wrong somewhere....

I don't know, I've never used a Loksound in a locomotive with more than 1 motor, and  am not familiar with the drives you mention.  Did it operate OK with the previous decoder? Has something broken? 

I've recently installed an Econami in a P2K GP9 for someone, it was able to crawl, which is a first for me using a Soundtraxx decoder, I never get Tsunami's as smooth as Loksound. I wonder if they made some changes to the design, or that I was just lucky.

Good to hear F-unit! 

Regarding the performance, did you try the ESU autotune procedure? Provided you didn't make any adjustments to the function buttons (so F1 is still the bell) , the following will happen. Using your DCC system , select the loco ,check if fwd direction is selected, and go to program on the main (making sure you have a few feet of free track to run on)

Simply set the value of CV54 = 0.  Return to operations mode, and select function key F1.  The loco will take off on it own and travel a few feet.  When it comes to a stop, the bell will be ringing so select F1 again to turn it off.

Done, in 99% of the cases, your loco is fine tuned, if not a few small adjustments to the relevant motor control CV's will likely suffice.

Koos

For those among us that operate bigger scales than HO, now there is an ESU Loksound decoder for you too. the Loksound L.  http://www.esu.eu/en/products/loksound/loksound-l-select-loksound-l-v40/

Announced today at the National Trainshow in Portland , Oregon.

Koos

Really impressed with the EMD Wowsound I got, but now I need EMD 645 Non-turbo, & Alco 244, neither of which are done by TCS .... hopefully only "yet"....

Soon, very soon, by ESU, here's a message about that by Matt from ESU LCC (USA) on their facebook page.  https://www.facebook.com/pages/ESU-LLC-LokSound/147086981998736?fref=ts#

The expanded range of available (diesel) sounds, as well as plug in replacement versions of the TCS WOW sound decoders are now available, now also with LED support out of the box, so no separate resistors should be needed.

Here's the press release: 

http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Customer_Info/Whats_New/What%27s_New.htm

Koos

Soundtraxx has now released a budget version of the Tsunami, the 'Econami' (their marketing department must have spared no expense..)

It very much follows the same philosophy as the WOW sound decoders (several choices of prime movers in one package), and it's fairly cheap, it's yet another option for those on smaller budgets, or first steps in sound perhaps? 

http://www.soundtraxx.com/dsd/econami/index.php

Hi Phil, will this help?  http://www.modelrectifier.com/resources/trainSound/warranty%20procedure%20all%20train%20products.pdf

According to that, it could be 6 months. 

Ok thanks. In any case the 30 days is the period of time that you had a chance to return the item if you decided you didn't want it after all, for whatever reason. You should still have warranty on the item you might be able to get it repaired under?

Koos

30 days return (buyers remorse...) , if you don't want the product. (in an unopened, unused package etc.. all those caveats) 

I'm sure there is a manufacturers warranty that lasts longer (usually a year?)  and could see the product being repaired or replaced with an equivalent.

A shut down of DCC functions can very well be because something else is draining power and the microprocessor doesn't get sufficient, causing errors. 

Indeed, start with the basics, and then go from there, one step at the time. I appreciate it might take time, but there's no rush is there? This is supposed to be a hobby :-)

Let us know what you find.

Looking at the above, I think this is a loco that is in need of a bit of maintenance.

I'd suggest to check all electrical connections as what you describe may very well mean poor pick up from one or more wheels (perhaps one entire truck) .  If you can , see if this loco relies on the chassis to conduct power. If so, solder wires to the trucks and hardwire as other types of electrical connections will become less reliable over time. Are there any shorts, solder points that touch another or even the loco chassis somewhere?

On top of that the high current could also mean that something is binding. I suggest to clean all gears and relubricate them.  I recently had a locomotive that had not run for ages, and stalled when I tried it. I investigated the reason and found one worm gear that had dried up grease. But I never expected to need pliers to get it removed, that's how hard the grease had become, so don't underestimate this factor!

motor brushes, dirt excessive carbon etc, could all be factors too. 

I think if you start at the basics, like others have suggested, you may have a good chance getting this loco back to life. 

My personal thoughts (your mileage may vary) is to do some research on that MRC decoder before you 'jump' in and purchase one.  MRC in the past haven't been exactly reliable, and have (had) some quirks programming too. They are cheap, that's true, and if that's all you can afford then perhaps its the best choice for you. If you can spend more, I think one of the other brands (Soundtraxx, ESU Loksound, TCS Wow-Sound or QSI Titan decoders) are probably of  a better quality and more widely used such that there are more people that could help you answer a question if there's ever a problem.

Just my 2 pence. 

OK thanks Phil, 

Not knowing which Tsunami's you have (diesel or steam), I would probably suggest to use Loksound Select decoders for diesels (and have the supplier pre-load them for you with the soundfile you want (Coastal DCC can do that for you amongst others, and is also one of the cheaper suppliers in the UK).  as they sound great, and have excellent slow speed performance. They also have an auto tune feature that will calibrate the motor automatically, and usually no further tweaking needed.    (Set CV53 to 0 , then return to ops mode and press F1, the loco will run about 3 to 4 feet and calibrate itself, done, as easy as that.). 

Of course the new Wowsound decoders are great too, but depending on space in the loco, may need a little more installation space as they are not yet available as drop in replacements, so you need to plug them in onto an existing board, or hardwire everything. (they are also available with keep alive capacitors attached for which you'd need additional space). 

With a good mechanism, their back EMF (BEMF) is very good and requires no set up. Add some momentum via CV3 and 4 and they will operate smoothly.

Tsunami's can be very good too, but may require a little more tweaking with CV's.  If you have decoder pro, this will be easier. The horns are usually a little 'lack lustre' on them, but they do have a build in reverb section so you can add some 'air' or 'echo' to make them sound a little livelier.  Slow speed performance is also possible to achieve with Tsunami's but be prepared to spend some time on that. 

Here's a method to calibrate Tsunami's low speed performance, by Brian Moore, who's method seems to work for me in most cases too.

Start with everything set at factory default and no momentum (CV3 and CV4 at 0) , and input 50 into CV209. Then, put 1 into CV210. 

Set the loco to travel at speed step one (using a 28-step speed input), and then increase the value of 210 until it runs smoothly. You may also consider reducing CV209 after that, to get it crawling along, without hesitation. After you're happy, you can then install any custom speed-curve using CV25 and CV29.

Note that, for getting the best results from a Tsunami (or any other sound decoder), some "delay" via CV3 and CV4 is required. This will also assist with smooth starts and stops. My usual values are CV3, 50-80, CV4, 30-50.

Depending on the make and model of locomotive, these two CV values should be tested in various combinations until satisfaction is attained. Note that each individual locomotive should be tested; don't assume that if one set of CV settings works in one loco, an "identical" one will perform in the same way.

To show you what is possible with a Tsunami after some patience, have a look at this, and forward to 3:00 for the starting and stopping performance.  

Do you know of any UK stockists of these please?

Phil, I guess you're looking for a relatively 'cheap' decoder.  For what type and brand locomotive are you looking, and how handy are you with electronics? (are you comfortable soldering wires and replacing a stock circuit board with a sound decoder replacement for example) or are you looking for 'plug and play' ?  Also what are you looking for in the decoder. Is sound, functions, or motor control more important?

If you let us know your requirements, we may be able to suggest a decoder type(s) that may suit your needs.  

Koos

Indeed Gary, you're correct, the sound value version is a decoder only available factory fitted to the models, you can't (yet) get it separately.  

Sugar cubes are great, as I've found too, in combination with a wow sound. I'm currently working on a GP9 in which I'm also installing a Loksound V4 decoder, and will combine it with a sugar cube speaker.

I'm curious to compare this loco's sound with that of another GP9 also fitted with a loksound, but with the factory supplied speaker. 

The keep alive in my HO locomotive keeps going for about 5 seconds so I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. 

I'd suggest to take your time, download the Wow sound manuals (the comprehensive ones) , and also have a look at the online programming tool for CV214 , 215 etc (special options).  (don't confuse it with the one for the steam version as it's slightly different). 

As said, set up your address and perhaps a few other basic settings such as consisting if you use it, and then you'll be able to do the rest via audio assist.  

Take your time, listen carefully, and then follow the instructions to what it tells you.  The flow chart helps too that comes with the decoder.

Koos

Ok, a little (?) feedback on the WOWsound decoders by TCS.

I recently completed a Lifelike SD9, in which I installed such decoder (bought mine from Coastal DCC), my version had keep alive attached, as a longer loco like this has more space.

The irony is that small locos benefit the most of it, but they haven't got the space, but that's life..

Back to the Wowsound. After installation, I did my usual thing, set the loco on a programming track and fired up Decoder pro, to do some of the set up.  It turns out that is not the best thing to do, as the decoder definitions available are not yet completely bug free, and struggle a bit with all the indexed CV's that this (and other) decoders use. 

I ended up messing the decoder up a bit and it didn't respond as I wanted it to, so I performed a factory reset. I then used my DCC system (Lenz) in programming track mode and programmed the basic settings in the loco, such as it's address. 

I then proceeded to try and set up the rest using the audio assist function.  I have to say, listen carefully and it all makes sense. It is very, very easy to do and very powerful.

Using this, I was able to assign the desired combination of function button, output wire, lighting effect , and conditions (fwd, rev, both directions active) etc.

I then followed the instructions to calibrate the locomotive for prototype operations. This is an easy two step process too.

The powerful thing is that you can toggle the function buttons to perform different tasks, they are divided in light mode and sound mode. 

Lets say the decoder is in light mode, pressing F2 would activate a roof beacon if that's what you have programmed it to do.  A double press on F8 will toggle it to sound mode, and then F2 will operate the bell for example.   (The toggling does default give you audible feedback on which mode you select, but turns out this can be disabled, and I prefer that. Leaving this on initially, is probably good until you get used to the way it works). 

This is useful for throttles that have a limited amount of function buttons available, and/or saves you trying to scroll down to higher number functions.

In prototype mode, the loco behaves more like the real thing. Leaving the controls in light mode therefore will mean that when you increase the throttle , nothing happens..

Why not?  That's because you haven't released the brakes, and they are tied in with a sound effect, which in turn is in sound mode..

So switch to sound mode, press F6, hear the brake release hiss and presto the engine revs up and smoothly departs to the speed you have set. The Engine Notches will respond to the load, so a light engine, will not rev up as high and as long as when it is trying to move a long heavy train. Very nice!

The sound files in the decoder are of very good quality, and at least on a par with the newest loksound files. Very clear, very realistic. 

Is there something negative to report? Depends.

I am not a fan of 'directional lighting'.  I want independent control of my lights. (when switching in the yard, I want both lights to be able to turn on, no matter which direction I travel). With the exception of the white and yellow output wires , all is free programmable, but these are default set for front and rear lights, which are activated by pressing F0. 

However there is a work around. I connected my headlight to the white wire , activated by F0, but was able to set that effect for 'BOTH directions'.  I then did not use the yellow output (as it would have worked at the same time as far as I can figure out at this time), so I used the next (GREEN) wire for the rear light. I gave that the constant bright light effect too, for both directions, and assigned to F1, with F2 assigned to purple for my roof beacon.  

It means that I've lost one output wire, but with the decoder having 6 function output wires, I don't miss it, I still have spare capacity. 

What remains to be seen is how well I would be able to speed match this loco through it's speed range with other decoders, but that would also mean switching it to 'traditional' throttle mode, which makes the decoder respond like any other decoder, turn up the throttle, the loco moves, turn it down it stops. 

In prototype mode, as mentioned above, it works like the real thing, with throttle (engine notches depending on load) doing the speed, but only when the brakes are released. Switching the throttle to 0 means the loco keeps on going, very slowly losing speed, but it doesn't really begin to decellerate until you apply brakes, and how much brake force you apply. One press is 20% braking, and subsequent presses increases it by 20% until it comes to a hold.

Dynamic brakes (if the loco has these set up, on by default) also work, the engine can be heard reving up, as is the dynamic brake fan, and the engine slows down too. But be careful. Releasing it without turning the throttle down means the engine will speed up again.

All in all, it brings a new dimension to operating your loco, and one I wholeheartedly recommend you try out for at least one of your locomotives. 

Koos