shellshock

After consulting with various suppliers I decided to use normal Carr’s 183 degrees solder the consensus of opinion that it will produce a more than strong enough axle and that using silver solder is way over the top. When fitting the crank castings and eccentrics I first measured the length of the axle with my micrometer and then press fitted both crank castings and eccentric and centre spacing washers and again measured the length of these on the axle using my Vernier Callipers. I got the following data Axle length 22.77mm Motion length on axle 11.20mm Difference 11.57mm divide by 2 for equal spacing 5.785mm close to 5.8mm. I then press fitted the first crank casting onto the axle and positioned it 5.8mm from the axle end and then soldered it applying the iron to the outer web. (Note the eccentrics and crank webs after reaming out were a light press fit on the axle). Once the assembly had cooled down I checked that the web was in the required position and then I added the first pair of eccentrics and eccentric sheath’s as well as the centre spacing washers with 0.45mm brass wire through the eccentrics and filed notch on crank web so as to align them. Again I carefully soldered the assembly up. I flooded the eccentrics and sheaths with loads of oil so as to ensure that the solder only went where I wanted it to. I then added he second pair of eccentrics and sheaths and the other crank casting again using 0.45mm brass wire to align the eccentrics and crank to each other. Also I ensured that this crank was 90 degrees to the first crank. Again I soldered it up with yet more oil to ensure that nothing jammed up. Once the assembly had cooled down I used my a slitting disc to trim the crank castings and cut through the axle. Lastly using a file I cleaned up the resulting assembly. I have also made up the Cylinders and am about to start on the Crossheads and connecting rods.

I have now made up the most of the basic chassis. I had to press the side down hard to ensure that the spacer tabs were all the way home and in one case resolder it until I was happy with it. Next I am going to modify the horn blocks to suit the compensating arms , make up the High level gear box and check that for clearance/fits and lastly partially build the brake Gear. Having done this I will then make a start on the Inside Motion. I note in the instructions it states that to solder the Cast manganese bronze cranks to the steel axle you need to use silver solder. Does any one have an idea of the grade of Silver Solder to use and where can I get it from. Thanks in advance.

The driven axle will be the rear drivers and they will be free to pivot on the rear compensation beams similar to the arrangement I did on the Hall.

The first thing I did was to make up the coupling rods when I made the fork joint I used a pin to apply oil to the centre of the joint and then carefully soldered the outer inside face of the joint pin this ensured that it did not jam up with solder going where it is not required. I then fettled the horn block to each bearing and after I had soldered them on to the chassis sides I marked up the bearings so that they only go in to the horn block I have fettled up to suit. This I did on my Avonside chassis jig which I set up using the assembled coupling rods. So all being well I should have a chassis that runs true. The next task will be the chassis spacers and then the compensating arms.

As promised last year I am now ready to make a start on the Martin Finny Dean Goods. The model I wish to make is of number 2350 in the time period of the 1920's. Now I am asking a favour of any members of this forum for information as to details such as coupling rods plain or fluted, cab type, smoke box, firebox, steps, reversing rod, chimney, top feed, balance weights, lamp brackets. From the instructions it would appear that 2350 as built 1885 had a narrow footplate with plain coupling rods with a original S2 type boiler. Of course this changed over time. Hope some one can help out thanks in advance.

Drawhook

As requested by benachie from a thread I stared about lining a Drummond 0-4-4 tank engine out in BR black livery here are the 3 Scottish locomotives that I have built so far. First a Jidenco HR Drummond 0-4-4 tank engine in fully lined out BR livery in fact over and beyond what BR would normally do. Then we have a HR Jones 4-4-0 Tank engine in Drummond I livery built froma Jidenco kit Finally a ex GNSR D41 4-4-0 locomotive in BR black lined livery built from a Nu Cast Kit Hope you like them.