jon_1066
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Posts posted by jon_1066
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It's unlikely that this sort of station would have a dedicated shunter. Being the end of a branch line the incoming pick up goods would probably just shunt the shed, reassemble it's goods train then run around and leave with it. To add a bit of excitement a passenger train could combine with the presence of the goods. You might also have a milk train or something similar. There may also be other goods trains that would use the run around. ie they would pick up full and drop off empties off scene then come to the end of the line to run around before leaving.
Would a small turntable fit where the shunter's shed is currently located? If you pushed the tunnel mouth back it might? If so that would give another operation for incoming trains. It would also potentially give a reason for light engine moves - to make use of the turntable for some down the line activity.
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If your fiddle yard is going to be removable why not go with cassettes? You would just need a sort of trestle contraption to put them on then store them under the layout when not in use.
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There is no runaround on that plan so a loco can only shunt the sidings on one side or the other, not both.
I think the only thing you realistically have space for is a 3:2:2 Inglenook.
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I had a play around. I think you are firmly in toy train set here. I also think a 6 by 4 board will be heavy (it needs to be portable I understand). This combined with the small size would preclude any thought of gradients and multiple levels. With that in mind here is a suggestion.
It allows a 3 carriage loco hauled train or four car DMU/EMU/HST that would have to reside on the running lines. Three sections on the roundy-roundy allows you to swap trains between the lines. Your son can blast around the outer loop whilst you shunt about on the inner. It has an inglenook shunting layout on a goods served industry, a TMD and carriage sidings. Industrial buildings and a polystyrene hill and road bridge provide a scenic break between the two sides without great additional weight. The buildings could be removable to aid storage, ditto the trees. They could be inserted into the polystyrene to reduce the height of the final board when stored. The points are a combination of set track and stream line. You will need set track spacing for the curves anyway. The station is an island platform with the rest having to be imagined off scene.
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Can someone point me to the "holly cow - I thought that was a shot of the real thing button". That last shot is just amazing. Bravo!
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Looking great.
One quick question - have you ever tried undercoating your models before painting? eg a rattle can of grey car primer prior to putting on the humbrol?
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Almost right. Definitely in the shade, always when I am modelling. Only drink Gaseosa (Spanish tasteless lemonade) with Lime juice (Juicee) during the day - I can go crossed eyed without alcohol
Ron
Typo or an admission? If the latter you must have been drinking heavily for the past couple of years!
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What always intrigues me is when people blow their noses and they look into their hankies to see what came out.What do they expect to find?"...
Checking for brains!
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Wow, great start. Good to see you getting your mojo back. Will follow with interest.
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I've taken a lot of photos of 60505 for some reason. I'll put up one more for now, but please tell me if you've had enough of it for the time being.
Tell you what, how about the other side for a change, and in monochrome.
Off to bed now, absolutely disgusted with myself.
Well if you played golf to the same standard as your layout you would be the Open champion - so don't be too hard on yourself. It would be somewhat selfish to have two world class activities on the go at the same time!
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Looking at peterboroughimages.co.uk the other day I noticed that quite a lot of new photos had been added, including this one, reproduced by kind permission of the site owner.
Then I realised that, apart from the gents in raincoats and hats, I had a similar situation during the sequence, so I tried it.
For once, I have actually done some erasing, as my poles all came out intact, unlike the original. I don't know how to get that grey and slightly fuzzy effect on the original though. Once again I'm happy that everything is nearly in the right place, though It also shows I have work still to do. That barrow crossing, for a start, and then there is that wire strung between the broken columns with lighting and loudspeakers hung from it. The roof is too high pitched as well, but that is down to the lateral compression of the site, and was unavoidable. The DMU needs to be closer coupled too. Given that the camera inevitably sits higher than the cameraman's eyeline, I think things such as chimneys actually come out pretty close to where they should be, and we are looking at yet another testament to Peter Leyland's talents.
Let my children have a fiddle with your camera for about five seconds and the fingerprints all over the lens will give you that fuzzy effect.
Another thing to try is turn the ISO of the camera up to the maximum. This is the reaction speed - the higher it is the more fuzzy the image will become.
Great photo regardless.
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An interesting question! Personally I wouldn't know a 10c from a 144 at full size let alone a model - I struggle to remember what all the codes mean for the coach types. I thought this was an expletive laden tirade at first:
BSO* CK* FK* TRIPLET RC BSK* BSO* SK*CK* BSO*
A difference of 1 mm doesn't sound like much but that really depends upon where the 1 mm is.
If it is in the length of the coach or even the width it would be difficult to tell apart.
On a flat surface a 1 mm indent is obviously going to be visible.
If you don't know for sure what these coaches were built like then striving for total accuracy is pointless anyway as there is some doubt about it.
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You could pop a piece of grey card in the shot to hide them. It will "wash out" with the bright light leaving you with the stuff in the middle ground.
Another alternative is to take a shot without the full rake. if they are meant to be hidden by front carriages then you are not going to miss them.
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... The Bangor goods yard will take some time...
Understatement of the month!
I am reminded somewhat of Captain Oats.
Brilliant progress on an awesome endeavour
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Looks great. Just one query - how do you get access to any problems under your BLT? Does that lift off or the front come off? If not I could see some grief under there in the future! Something will always derail in the most awkward to reach spot.
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Kings Cross A1 Bongrace swings under Crescent Bridge with the relief to the Heart of Midlothian.
128 2.jpgThis one started out as a very ordinary shot, which I nearly discarded, but the close crop and the black and white treatment saves it, I think.
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Understatement of the month. Looks amazing to me.
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The triangle isn't really any more moves if you think about it. Loco is released goes wrong line into the MPD then forwards to coal, water, ash, etc. It then reverses into the limb of the triangle and out of the MPD to reverse back onto a train
With a turntable depending where it is situated it could even be more moves. Loco is released goes wrong line into the MPD then forwards to coal, water, ash, etc. It then reverses onto the turntable, is turned then heads out of the MPD to reverse back onto a train.
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Here's another one:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-35639164
From Holland - train hit a crane on a level crossing and killed the train driver
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It is basically the stuff you use to make Airfix model airplanes. Look up Liquid Polystyrene Cement.
I am surprised that superglue doesn't work though - as that should also glue polystyrene.
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Superglue should also do it.
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Raining hard here, can't see to do anything useful on the railway, so plenty of time to fiddle around with photos.
Flying Fox emerges into the light. DJH this one, which used to run on Stoke Summit and Charwelton.
And positively the last one of this particular A3 for the time being. Once again this is a very big crop, the photo having been taken from the other side of Crescent Bridge. I can now achieve what I tried unsuccesfully to do using the zoom function for so long, and so am a very happy bunny.
The effect of cropping is a boon in another way. By lowering the "quality" of the image (ie number of pixels) it adds an air of "old photo" to it. Very nice!
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I suspect it may be the track pins - they can distort the track slightly which then causes the points to not sit flat and therefore cause problems with stock.
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Yesterday I bought some lighter coloured card to cover the bits that were coming out grey, and causing problems when photoshopping. An experimental fitting has taken place this morning. And the result? Peter Leyland has done some lovely subtle weathering to the roofs of the buildings, and guess what? Paint.Net gleefully leaps on these bits as being very similar to the newly installed card, and duly obliterates them still.
I do not have a Plan C.I do though have a couple of images still in the bank, so here is a somewhat less cropped South end shot.
The pilot has propelled in the stock for the 1130 Edinburgh departure, and the fireman is even now retracing the route to retrieve the lamp what fell off on the way up from Nene sidings.
And I do like the way this one turned out.
Have you considered some shade of green? You don't have much in the way of foliage and what works for Harry Potter should work for you.
Fab photos by the way.
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One of the simplest of the more complex is a very nifty mod to those normal tension locks as set out by Brian Kirby.
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=35605
Basically you solder or glue a bit of unfolded paper clip or staple onto the drop part of the coupler and then mount magnets into the baseboard between the track where you want to uncouple. The magnet attracts the staple and lifts the tension lock allowing you to uncouple. When under tension the hook on the coupler keeps it lowered.
edit - hopefully works now
Stockrington - Mojo ignited. Thanks, Heljan!
in Layout topics
Posted
A couple of thoughts (great progress by the way) if the river is like in your reference photos - muddy - why are you pouring it so thick in resin? Surely you can make up the level with a thin pour on top. That water in the photos is not exactly what you would call transparent. A muddy brown colour would hide whatever depth you use.
Second is will it match the back scene? That looks pretty choppy and fast flowing in the back scene. Are you going for waves and turbulent water or something more like the sluggish muddy estuary?