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ROSSPOP

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  1. ROSSPOP
    I`ve learnt to make a loco kit or two since the 1970`s but still hate the thought of making wooden staircases. So , whilst searching for my copy of J R Hartley`s book on fly fishing....... somebody remind me which TV add that came from !!
     
    I came across some pics of most,not all, of my staicase signal box journey......
     
    Don`t know about you , but I`ve mostly used and adapted plastic or etched windows and also the same for staircases, either butchering Ratio, Prototype(card kits) offerings from varius kits.....
     

     
    Way back in the 1980`s I shrank a ratio signal box kit to emulate a more LSWR offering.... It only needed three steps on to the platform...... yes that is a famous working Jidenco LSWR railcar !!! remember those !!
     
    I`m still searching for pics of a model of the original Swanage signal box I made next...........
     
     
     
    Then on to The Brighton . This was the first layout to be completed of "Devil`s Dyke". D&S Models produced some etched 4mm LBSCR windows and these were used on the signal box the rest of which was in plasticard.
     

     
    I was , of course, stumped when it came to making a model of `Cole` SDJR signal box. These had to be fabricated and somewhere I read an article on using Acrylic glazing sheets and WHSmiths`s white sticky back labels which are layered and cut out with a scalpel !!!!
     

     
    I think this was the first time I needed to make a `gessometer` working drawing from limited photo`s.......
     

     
    The staircase was a pain to get square.......
     

     
    Still pinching parts from Ratio though as the valence is theirs........!!!! The last 4mm signal box build.
     
    In 2008 I moved into 7mm modelling planning to utilise the embryonic RTR brass loco offerings. Way back then it was still possible to find real quality bargains on ebay.
    In an effort to save time, I snapped up this signal box bargain made by forum member Gravy Train. Ive still got it , an excellent piece of 7mm modelling, saving me the trouble of making another staircase and awaiting use on a small diorama idea I have fermenting away !!!

     
    Had the likes of Minerva , Lionheart, and dare I say Dapol been available then I would have stayed with RTR. So it has been back to building my own.
    Back to using etched windows from Phoenix range to try my hand at 7mm scratch builds and another staircase!!!
     

     
    My recent dabblings in things MR/LMS has had me trying laser cut mdf kits.
     
    This is a Lasercraftdevon now taken over by Rail Model kit. Very accurate , very nice kit to build. Painted all the components before assembly.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     


     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    Finally saved me from having to make my own windows and staircases.... Is this the way forward??
     
    Just a little bit more finishing off to do.....
     
    Will this be the last signal box build ?......
     
    .I doubt it !!!!!
  2. ROSSPOP
    I was never interested in Hatchettes expensive offering that looks too small for a working model. So, being the tight fisted old modelling git that I am I came across a large Sagami motor and later a `Home of O Gauge` 36.1 ratio fold up gear box on ebay some time back £30 max.
     
    The motor is about 1.5mm narrower than those cylindrical chassis spacers so I will have to modify the axle box detailing on my chosen driven axle.
     
    Today I built it up and ran the gearing in...................................... should do the trick.................
     
     
     

     
    Comparison with an ABC Maxon motor and reduction gearing in a Dave Andrews Castle chassis I`ve built.
     

     
    The kit construction will be 90% soldered with the exception of very small `whitemetal/mazak` details cab etc and those parts to be attached to the plastic tender body.
    So this means removal of body casting factory finish paint for which I found Polycell advanced paint stripper the strongest and most effective.
     

     
    And this is all you need to strip the varnish off the etches (1 hour dipping max) using good old Wilkos paint and varnish stripper, plus a brush, water and wire wool.
     

     
     
     
    The basic frames are completed and this evening I plan to fit the bearings, wheels , motor and coupling rods
     

     
     
     

  3. ROSSPOP

    10/10

    By ROSSPOP,

    Placed an internet order this time yesterday......just arrived with the morning post .now that's what I call impressive.....
  4. ROSSPOP

    2. A working chassis.

    By ROSSPOP,

    I used a basic axle alignment jig to position the main bearings.
     
    The centre bearings have been shortened to accomodate the motor and gearbox.
     

     
    I have used the Hatchette replacement wheels set, having shortened the length of the wheel retaining screws to give a stronger hold.
     
    I aligned the wheels using the spokes to fine tune wheel quartering.
     
    There is absolutely nothing wrong with the etched coupling rods provided but to save some time I have
     
    used those by Premier Components.
     
     
     

     
    As I had hopes the large Sagami motor is very powerfull and the simple 36.1 gearing has bedded in well and runs very smoothly.
     

    Yes ,of course, darling I totally agree with your suggestion of a glass kitchen table........................................ simples......
     


  5. ROSSPOP
    The very first 7mm etched brass effort. Snapped up on Ebay complete with Slaters wheels.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Certainly for locomotives , I am a follower of the principles of sprung hornblocks as a means of maintaining good electrical contact with the track, smoother movement through pointwork and track joints between baseboards and more importantly for me at least, springing enhances the `weight and shear presence` of a loco on the track by drastically reducing the wobbles of a fixed chassis. I have been convinced in 4mm modelling and so this was to be an essential element in my 7mm constructions.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I have always been used to the Kean Maygib plastic hornblocks in 4mm, but could`nt get as much precision with regard to movement with the brass bearings in the 7mm version made by Slaters.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I eventually came across these roller bearing hornblocks by HobbyHolidays that enabled me to continue with using a MetalSmiths axle jig to accurately set up coupling rods to hornblocks. Such a simple way to quickly assemble a trouble free working chassis mechanism and ridding the loco building universe from timewasting trying to find that elusive `binding` nightmare of a wonky chassis.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The Scorpio kit was designed as a `beam compensated` chassis, but I`ve never been totally successfull at building one.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Obviously, consideration has to be given to cutting out the hornblock positions. I usually base this around where the kit has got its bearing holes positioned in order to maintain the correct axle height, particularly in rgard to connecting rods and GWR crossheads.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The chassis frames provided are accurate and have plenty of rivet detail to be added.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Assembling the cylinder blocks and crossheads was hampered by the way the kit was organised. The crosshead castings are lost wax and poorly cast. They needed a lot of fettling and still looked wrong.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The cylinder wrappers need annealing to make forming to shape more maneagable. The vacuum pump is a solid whitemetal casting but I fabricated a replacement from brass tubing to make it a working pump even though it is tucked up under the loco valence.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    You can see the wonky crosshead castings more clearly on this pic. I later disguised things by adding further detailing from the excellent parts from Peter Roles Components.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    To keep costs down I opted for a Mashima 1833 motor and fold up gearbox. If set up properly it will produce good performance, particularly with DCC control. Clearance is tight between the crossheads and leading crankpin. I shortened the Slaters bearing and made the coupling rod bearing hole a little thinner.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The basic chassis completed and performing very well.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I invested in a MetalSmith rivetter as there are many pre-etched rivets to form in the superstructure.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    No problems with assembling the footplate and valence.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Care to be taken in making sure chassis and footplate are square before soldering the captive nuts in place. The more decerning modeller will not be happy with the cylinder block profile as the angle of the block is too severe.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    A fairly easy assembly of the superstructure, there was a poor fit between the saddle and smokebox that needed extra time and thought to solve.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The rear corners and rear top section are lost wax castings of average quality, but a good fit. I always find lost wax more difficult to fettle if not right.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The firebox is at least two millimetres too long and so the cab front plate sits too far into the cab. I did`nt know this at the time, but I had decided on `no heroics` and made the kit as it came.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The roof is designed to be removable to be able to detail the cab and is a fiddle to get to sit correctly.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Detailing parts are a mixture of lost wax and white metal and all need tidying, however, the kit is well provided for. The chimney is probably too small and the safety valve cover leans forward.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Overall, it eventually makes up into an attractive model if you persevere.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I use Phoenix/Precision two part etch primer to ensure that detailing is not buried under too thick a layer of primer. Precision paint was from a fifty mil tin I purchased in the 1970`s !!  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Cab details are provided for in the kit (not the figures).  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Finished with Phoenix/Precision satin varnish.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This what I think differentiates between some RTR and Kits........ you don`t get those nice wafer thin metal edges in plastic models........  
     
     


    I have fitted her with DCC sound.......  
     
     


  6. ROSSPOP
    I always wanted a Dukedog when working in 4mm, so this was a kit I could`nt resist. I`ve based her on 3216 in 1945 condition as the kit had a plain tender and matched the picture I had found.
     

     
    I purchased replacements for the dome and safety valve and leading driver chassis spring detail , together with all the cab detailing parts from HobbyDevelopments. I hate etched lamp irons so replacements were obtained from Laurie Griffin Miniatures.
     
    I chose a Slaters enclosed gearbox and Mashima1833 motor.
     
    As always, I started proceedings with making the coupling rods.
     

     
    Then assembling and preparing the frame etches to take roller bearing hornblocks. This time I used the delux version.
     

     

     

     
     
     
    Assembling the chassis using axle jig was straight forward
     

     
     
     
    For the front bogie I used Slaters hornblocks as these could be shaped to match the inner bogie side frames and allow some ride height adjustment when set up in the main chassis.
     

     
    I opted for springy wire rather than the springs as these were too fierce for the bogie application.
     

     
     
     
    I ended up with a nice fully sprung chassis and proceeded with adding wheels and motor plus breakgear to make sure all fitted well with no potential for shorting out as she eventually will have DCC sound.
     

     
    Also, I needed the motor in place in order to shape and fettle the firebox around the motor at a later stage.
     

     
    Next up, was the footplate and cab. The kit instructions a pretty straight forward here.
     

     
    The firebox is an easy build bt you do need to add extra metal fillet at the front in order to safetly shape the top edge.
     

     

     
    Then on to fitting everything around that motor, in my case , making allowances for having a sprung chassis.
     

     

     
    Then it is on to shaping and soldering up the smokebox and fitting the brass tube boiler in between. I also had to fit and modify the whitemetal cosmetic `bearings`.There was a gap to be filled with scrap brass where the rear splashers enter the front of cab.
     

     
    Care is needed to make sure of squareness in all planes before final solder.
     

     
    There is a lot of detailing work around the front boiler and bogie
     

     
    From here on in it is pure detailing...... starting with marking out and soldering the boiler bands which are supplied within the kit.
     

     
    I`ve previously mentioned replacing the dome and safety valve for better examples, but that is a personal choice.
     

     
    I also replaced the buffers with more accurate versions from HobbyDevelopments.
     

     
    I think this where better quality lamp irons come into their own.
     
     
     
    The tender construction has only one potential challenge and that is soldering the half round rod to form the tender beading.
     
    The parts make into a very neat chassis. I opted for fabricating a sprung centre axle only.
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    The rest of the tender build is very easy and enjoyable and overall makes into a very stable model.
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
    Etch primer finish from Phoenix/Precision and a final coat of their satin varnish.
     


     
     
     
    I have already mentioned replacing all the cab detailing parts with those from the HobbyDevelopment range and I think this is important with an open cab loco.
     

     
     
     

    I have now fitted her with DCC Sound.
     
     
     


  7. ROSSPOP
    At the time I started this kit, no one else made a 93XX Mogul. From what I had researched other modellers had made quite a decent example of the type.
     
    I was aware that the etches were well researched and produced but lacked a lot of rivet detailing. With the exception of the chimney and sefety valve, I replaced all the white metal detailing parts with those produced by HobbyDevelopments, including the tender springs and axle boxes.
     
    As is my preferred modus operandi , I started with coupling rods and roller bearing hornblocks to produce a sprung chassis.
     

     

     

     
     
     
    With this kit the cylindr blocks and crossheads were very well produced and needed no replacements.
     
    After soldering on the hornblocks I added cast white metal loco springs from HobbyDevelopments.
     
    Power was to be from a Mashima 1833 and fold-up 40-1 gearbox.
     
    The frames provided made a very substantial chassis assembly. The front bogie was a very nice fold-up etch.
     
     
     
    The etches are quite a thick gauge so some parts benefit from annealing to make bending easier.
     

     
    I slowly built things up from the footplate and added extra rivet detailing by referring to photographs.
     

     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    The firebox is mostly devoid of detailing and so this was fabricated by me and from parts from Peter Roles Components.
     

     

     

     

     
     
     
    Interestingly the smokebox saddle was detailed with 14BA screws and nuts supplied in the kit.
     

     
     
     
    Fettling was required to get the boiler unit seated correctly.
     

     

     
     
     
    From here on in it was down to slowly building up the extra detailing .
     

     

     

     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    The cab backplate was superdetailed with scale fittings
     

     
    I did`nt document the tender construction. The rivets were pre etched on the rear of the sides to help with the rivetting. I sprung the centre axle.
     

     
     
     
     
     
    Spray painted using Phoenix etch primer and GWR colours with a satin varnish. Plates by SevernMill.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    I have also fitted DCC sound.
     
     
     


  8. ROSSPOP
    A most awkward and troublesome kit. I can understand now why I spent those years in the early 1980`s trying to make all those 4mm etched Jidenco loco kits, it was to prepare the way for making this model in 7mm.............
     
    I had previously seen a few made by others and felt there was some potential for the kit and I had always fancied a 1930`s GWR diesel railcar also known as a `flying banana`.
    I knew it was likely to be a challenge and I had never worked with resin in a kit before, particularly resin and brass etch and the joining of the two together !!!!
     
    At least it is a complete kit with wheels, motor and seating.......
     
    Well, It certainly was`nt going to require sprung axles so a start with making a working powered bogie was the first step.
     

     
    The first surprise was that the etched holes were far too big for the bearings supplied. Luckily some left over bearings from the previous JM loco kit were a better fit.
     
    The motor suppled needs a worm gear attached to both shaft ends to power both axles, not an over easy task to get set up without motor and gear `growl`
     

     
    The bogies comprise of an inner frame to which the outer framing forms the dummy side frames. At this early stage I was aware that the one side insulated axles would give me a `` live`` frame which is a potential area of concern with DCC, but not impossible.
     

     
    By carefull adjustment and gentle running in I ended up with a fairly quiet powered bogie as per the instructions.
     

     
    The outer framework needed tidying up with files and extra rivet details were added using pictorial reference. The white metal castings were of reasonable quality and were superglued in place.
     

     

     
    The brackets are to be a nut and bolt attachment to the main chassis frame.
     
     
     
    Pickups are phospher bronze strip with a round brass contact point soldered on.
     

     
     
     
    The chassis as designed proved to be too weak and prone to bending. Because the body work is 75% resin along its entire length, the chassis needed strengthening. Also, the ride height of the bogies was far too high and the chassis needed lowering over the bogie centres by at least 5mm.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    As already mentioned the body is made up of resin ends and roof with etched brass sides and internal dividers.
     
    The ends are reasonably square and robust.
     

     
    But...... the roof sections have warped badly ( 1985 KIT) .
     

     
    I used several immersions in very very hot water and some judiscious tweeking to straighten them out.
     

     
    A dry run indicated potential weaknesses in the construction.
     

     
    And so I used brass rod spigots as a strengthening method.
     

     
    The etched sides were rolled to the same profile as the resin ends and attached to the resin roof and ends with superglue.
     

     
    However, the resin roof sections over the next week gradually returned to their bowed shape and began to detach from the etched sides.
     

     
     
     
    There is not much of a surface area between the brass sides and the edge of the resin roof sections to make an effective bonding surface.
     

     
    So my solution was to drill holes in the top edge of the brass sides and push through some interference fit brass rods, which would be soldered to the brass sides and fixed by Araldite to the inside of the resin roof sections.
     

     

     
     
     
    With the sides now securely fixed I could think about fitting the central and end doors which are recessed into the sides. Here , the kit is a shambles, with poor draughtmanship and etching. The kit suggests keeping the sides fairly flat when in reality they are curved at the lower edges , as are the doors.
     

     
    This all required a lot of filling and shaping with Green Stuff filler. The roof joins also needed filling and carefull sanding to maintain the correct profile. I used thin guaged wire to tidy up the roof above the central sliding doors. I also went to a lot of effort to solder on a moulding strip along the top, middle and bottom of the sides to improve the look of the model and match the moulding on the resin ends.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    There is a great deal of work to be done in tidying up the sides and roof. Once this was done I moved on to detailing the roof.
     

     
    The kit provides white metal roof vents and these need to be seated on square bases which I fabricated from plasticard.
     
    I also spent time in fitting the ATW cable,added in the 1930`s, and conduit to add some much needed roof detail.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    She was now beginning to look like a reasonable model.
     

     
     
     
    Some final detailing added...... guard irons to bogies which I fabricated from some angle strip.
     

     
    I tried to track down some decent brass horns but in the end had to tidy up what was supplied in the kit.
     

     
    The seats over the diesel engines are higher, so all this I fabricated from plasticard to keep the weight down as I felt by this time she was getting very heavy for a single motored model.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
    I have organised the model to have a removable chassis with seating attached.
     

     
     
     
    After a thorough clean up, I proceeded to the painting stage. My usual preference is to prime with Phoenix/Precision two part primer.
     

     
    For this project however, I needed a primer that was a little thicker and for this I always use Teroson available from C&L. Expensive perhaps but always reliable.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    I also use Tamiya masking tape products, particularly their tapes with attached plastic sheeting.
     
    This project would need a lot of masking !!!!
     

     
     
     
    Here she is basking in the sunshine outside my `erecting shed` in her first coat of GWR cream.
     

     
    I have learnt the hard way , that you need to leave each finished coat of paint at least a five day week before re-masking for the next.
     

     
    You also need to use quality masking products.
     
    For this project I needed to mask for the GWR Cream, Chocolate, White and Black, so that took one month in summer !!!
     

     
    In the 1930`s some of these Railcars had either a two shades of white roof, or as in this model a central black painted section.
     

     
     
     

     
    Then it was out with the lining pen and transfers..........
     
    Don`t you just hate being watched while you work?
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    Well having purchased HMRS GWR coach pressfix decals I was annoyed that there are not enough to complete two sides of a railcar !!!!!
     

     
     
     
    I used plasticard strip to fabricate the wooden slatted blinds that you can just make out in photos.
     

     
    I also used plasticard for the white sun shades on the driving end windows.
     

     
    I prefer to use Yorkmodels Acrylic Clear glazing sheets..... expensive but very easy to scribe, snap and shape. Affixed to the model with Glu`n Glaze.
     

     
    A final coat of satin varnish and more plasticard fabrication for the roller blinds fitted to the windows in the 1930`s.
     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    I have now fitted her with DCC Sound.
     
     
     

  9. ROSSPOP
    No longer available so lucky to have snapped this one up on Ebay.


     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This project is to be a gradual enterprise as it was really an impulse purchase during 2014 when I had committed myself to building a GWR modular diorama/layout.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The layout is going well but by the end of the year I needed a break from it as I have always been a solo railway modeller.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This kit was calling out to me....... so I began construction January last year.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Dave Andrews has withdrawn this kit for the time being as there are some niggling problems that some might find annoying.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This is the most complex kit and largest loco I have started in 7mm . If you have read my other blogs you know I prefer a sprung loco chassis and I am prone to replace most visually obvious parts from HobbyDevelopments, PR Components and Laurie Griffin in order that all my loco stock are of the same standard.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I`ve never made a `state of the art kit` so I`m not sure what that really means but the etches in this kit for both loco and tender are well produced.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Dave advises in the instructions not to use the correct size wheels for his kit because of the tight clearances between the front drivers, but having asked about others experiences on the O Gauge Guild Forum many have used the correct size wheels with no problems.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I find a cuppa and a chocolate macaroon highly advantageous at the very beginning.......  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    As ever I start with the coupling rods......  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    There is absolutely nothing wrong with the etched loco springs but I need to fit cast white metal versions to match my other stock.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Because of the issue with the front drivers already mentioned, I needed to markout as accurately as I can the frame cutouts for the roller bearings, any error here or wandering away from the kit designers intentions will be diasterous when it comes to fitting the crossheads and front wheel brakes.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Not a lot of space !!!
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    It`s always a tentative time marking up and cutting out the frames for hornblocks. It is the most significant action in determining whether you will get a trouble free chassis and perhaps the whole point of a loco`s construction..... a faultlessly running model.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I usually power off the centre axle but this kit has quite a bit of detailing between the frames, so I will be using the rear axle .  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I have invested in a quality ABC Maxon motor and 38.1 gearbox. She will eventually be DCC sound.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Everything goes together well. and using an axle jig ensures accuracy.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I have replaced the inside motion bracket gubbins with HobbyDevelopment products.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    As expected not a lot of room between the drivers.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    All is well in the chassis dept....  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    No problems with the front bogie framework. A very workable and sure footed design.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    On to the cylinder blocks and crossheads. This assembly is very much part of the `face` of a GWR castle. There are enough parts to consider making a moving relief valve which connects through the front framework via a swivel linkage.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Unfortunately we come across the kits first niggling problem as the etched holes in the fold up cylinder blocks are misaligned.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Easily sorted once you find out how it should look.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Some very nice lost wax parts to make the slide bars , but does require fettling and drilling.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The relief valve rod is too short to make into a moving part so I needed to fabricate a longer length during my attempt at using the ` Guy Williams flicking link movement`.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Some of the cylinder blocks detailing parts are also white metal so you need to prioritise the order of solder assembly to avoid melting them.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Sorted !!!  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    There are no problems with construction of the footplate.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Annealing helps with forming the curved parts.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    The splashers need filing to get a finer top edge which will be left shining brass in the finished form.  
     
     
     
     

    The firebox shaping is helped by the parts supplied and by annealing.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    The smokebox needs soldering with care as the front is a white metal.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    The boiler is soldered up in the usual fashion.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    All three boiler sections are bolted together.  
     
     

     
     
     

    It will take time to file and fettle around the base of the firebox to get a level fit between the rear splashers. Care must be taken to get it all level with the smokebox and its whitemetal saddle at the front.  
     
     

     
     
     

    Once this is achieved the boiler bands can be tinned and soldered in place.  
     
     

     
     
     

    The second niggle is that nearly all the pre etched washout plug holes in the sides of the firebox are in the wrong place, mostly too low and this takes time to make good.  
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    An error of my own making is that I chose the wrong shape on the front edge of the extended frames and had to rebuild it into a curved front.  
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    The front bogie has its own central spring and so I had to balance the weight using lead sheet. these will not be finally used until completion of the build.  
     
     

     
     
     

    Roof and cab is well detailed and care needs to be taken in bending the roof to the correct profile.  
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    At this point in the build I took a break........  
     
     

     
     
     


    Building recommenced this January commencing with adding some footplate details.  

     


     


     

    Then a brief push by hand trial through my B6 turnouts.  

     


     
     
     

    Encouraged by this I have pushed on with finishing the chassis detailing with fitting the braking system, and fitting the plunger pickups.  


     


     


     
     
     

     
     
     

    She currently sits in my cabinet calling me to do further work........  

     


  10. ROSSPOP

    3. Detailing the chassis

    By ROSSPOP,

    There`s quite a lot of fetlting to do , but the parts are very accurate particularly the etches. The white metal parts are clean but the smaller detailed bits are some times not very well defined.
     
    The axle springs are `mazak` castings so I have avoided soldering these to the frames as it can alter the mazak matrix and lead to `mazak rot`
     

     
    After much thought I decided to change the Premier Components coupling rods to those provided for in the kit as I really don`t think much of milled rods......................................................
     

     
     
     

     
    Maybe not much in it but I think they are better looking..........................................
     
    I really can`t see how this chassis can stay together with just superglue, unless, I suppose, its a static model.
     
    I also discovered the reason why the wheels wobble on their axles even when the screws are at their tightest. The screwsare too long at the cheesehead end.
     

     
    The rusty one is a Slaters original. I happened to have a spare set and replacing them has been an enormous improvement.You can buy them from Slaters.
     
     
     

     
    I soldered all of the brake rigging to give it all strength and to keep stable when the wheels are removed for painting.
     

     
    Now onto the front bogie assembly.............................................................
     


     


     

     
     
     

  11. ROSSPOP
    Having built them all, it was time to test them and the trackwork which has been left `fallow` for a couple of years.
     
    All my locos have Digitrains sound files and the mooing is the Lemaco point motors I have used as my units are only 21/2 inches deep and they are the lowest in height I could think of.......
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

  12. ROSSPOP

    A few more BR vehicles

    By ROSSPOP,

    I think this ex GWR wagon is from Ratio, again with Bill Bedford springing and MJT BR plate axle boxes. Please don`t tell the Scalefour Inquistion but the axle boxes are upside down..........fffffancy that!!!!!
     
     
     

     
     
     
    Studying the many books available on S&D in the 1950`s I needed a selection of representative brakevans.
     
    Parkside LMS Brakevan with my preferred method of w-iron suspension and a upgrade of white metal axle boxes and springs from MJT and Kenline parts. I think Kenline castings especially their loco lamps are the best you can get. I`ve been snapping them up on ebay for years.
     
     

     
     
    The Bachmann BR Standard brakevan was just the job for upgrading to P4. I changed all the handrails with steel wire which is more robust.
     
     

     
     
    Cambrian ex SR Brakevan; also frequented the S&D.
     
     

     
     
    Back to Parkside for these identical wagons but with different running gear.
     
     

  13. ROSSPOP
    She is now ready for the paint shop but I will need daylight for spraying so I will delay that for warmer weather.
     
    She was `run in` today which showed her bouncing up and down on her front axle springing. So, I added `liquid lead` and sheet lead to her front end to balance her ride qualities.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    This evening I tested her fine movement with an AMR controller. Despite being a 37 year old kit with an open frame motor of `yesteryear` I`m quite pleased. She should be even better with a ZIMO MX 645 decoder.
     

  14. ROSSPOP
    Finally completed today and will go on to be fully run in before converting to DCC. She is very heavy ( a brick and a half)
     
     
     

     
    Far too clean but will remain so until I investigate subtle weathering techniques.
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    Something to sing along to...................................................
     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8UVguWGtuQ
  15. ROSSPOP

    A Shell Out On Tanks

    By ROSSPOP,

    Rather than convert Bachmann tanks which I did`nt feel were opened framed enough. I had a go at David Geen kits and started on a set of three. I began with a general clean up of parts and to work out how to incorporate my favourite w-irons.
     
     

     
     
     

    this proved to be a little more complex as I had to to fit all three springing units seperately making sure they all squared up with the framing.
     
     
     

    A little jiggery pokery to make sure the wheels were free of the framing.
     
     
     

    One of my pet hates is poor quality axle box details, and I feel this is a failing on these kits. All were replaced with MJT.
     
     
     

     
     
     

    The rest of the kit was very good and went together well. Then a thorough clean and off to the paint shop.
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    I used Fox transfers to complete the project.......... The entire project was completed in the late Ray Earl style...........three Brownie Points to anyone who can say what that is........?????
     
     
     
     

    And I did the same!!!!! Actually I messed up the Fox transfers.
  16. ROSSPOP
    As you all know, in my other blog, I found a previously unfinished 4mm version of a Johnson 1P in the attic stored away and decided to finish it......

    Now that I`ve moved into 7mm modelling, but entirely GWR, I had been bitten with an LMS bug and decided to investigate the Slaters 7mm version. There were no real negative comments about such a kit that I could find, and so, I sold some stock to fund the purchase.
     
    The Slaters 7mm Johnson 1P kit dates from the mid 1980`s. so it is`nt a, so called, state of the art kit. Having said that, it is supplied as a `complete kit` so no extras are needed.
    It`s not supplied with a Belpair boilered option , but I`m happy to build her as an LMS 1930`s push-pull version in beautiful all black with intermediate passenger livery and a few polished brass bits!!!!
     
    She will be No 1260 based at Bedford , my home town.
     
     
     
    Way back in the early 1980`s I discovered for myself at least that sprung hornblocks provided a most reliable way of improving loco performance whereby all wheels are on the track despite any track irregularities. I think it also maximises electrical pickup provided the right type of pickups are fitted. I have carried this preference forward into 7mm construction. I also like the idea of using the loco coupling rods as a jig for establishing accurate axle and hornblock alignment at all times which in turn eliminates all those hours wasted trying to find out why a chassis binds or works in one direction better than the other.....for me at least it means I can get it right everytime.....
     
    With this slaters kit,however, I was unable to follow this tried and tested method in full. The kit makes up into a fully sprung system, but the hornblocks are etched foldup tabs as part of the chassis etchings and do not have any form of screw adjustment to ride height either....... so new territory for me ......
     
     
     
     
     
    I decided to begin with making the rear bogie as a way of assessing the kits accuracy and also discover any failings on my part in making up the Slaters hornblocks

     
    The bogie hornblocks differ from the main chassis as the hornblocks are assembled by soldering on the axle box guides as seperate units
     

     
    However, if you take your time at each stage and read the instructions making sure everything moves freely with NO SLOP, you will find few problems that can`t be solved with a minimum of fettling.
     
     
     

     
     
     

    I think it makes up into a very clever designed sprung bogie mechanism. with both axles at 90degrees to the chassis with no lateral axle movement. A very free running set up.
     
    I opted for black foam between the two brass washers instead of the plasticard provided as an extra level of adjustment.
     
    The only problem encountered was a wrong drill size written in the instructions.
     
     
     
     
     
    So... on to the main chassis fret..............

    As already mentioned, the hornguides are attached to the chassis etch and the instructions suggested folding and soldering these first before bending the main chassis into its U shape.
     
    I did`nt feel this suited me at all and chose another way..........
     

    I opted to fold the chassis sides first and then fold up the hornblocks as there is plenty of room between the frames to solder easily. I had also at this stage made up the coupling rods to check on the accuracy by lining them up with the fixed spring stop etch...... all looked to be accurate.....
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    After reaming the axle boxes and preparing the main drivers I assembled the coupling rods and was amazed and pleased that the chassis ran absolutely faultlessly with no fettling of the rods required. No slop at all and a very free running design.
     
    Still plenty of detail to be added later on but now I have a solid chassis to work with I will now proceed with the loco body and make sure every thing lines up.......
     
     
     
    These are my preferred sprung hornblocks, although the plastic Slaters have been upgraded and are not adjustable...
     

     


     

    I prefer to make coupling rods first and then after cutting out the frames use them with a Metalsmiths axle jig to solder everything in place........
     

  17. ROSSPOP
    Thinking a long way ahead towards making a small LMS layout project, I thought it might make a change if I ignored having a stationary goods yard hand crane.
     
    It might be more interesting if I had a mobile hand crane , so I searched the web for ideas and information and came up with this photo.
     

     
    Strictly speaking I think this is an ex LNWR version but there are similar Midland examples and I took a chance on a Meteor Models hand crane truck kit in 7mm , which is based on Midland Railway practice.
     
    Rather than bore you all with blow by blow construction I will start by saying that the kit is very much a mixed bag of both reasonable and poor white metal castings. The buffers are supposedly sprung but you have to drill the solid cast buffer housings first.
     
    The etched truck had fold up W irons which were badly drawn before being etched. These were replaced with Slaters compensated MR W irons that also had better axlebox castings.
     
    The kit had an atrocious piece of tatty wood for the jib, so this was replaced by a suitable size of square plastic, which I sanded to shape.
     
    The crane castings, however, were reasonably good. After cleaning up the crank wheel castings and painting all the parts prior to construction, the hand crane actually works!!!
     


     
     
     
    The crane truck finally turned out quite well.
     
     
     

     
    It has been difficult to establish what colour these cranes and trucks were painted. The preserved example at the Chasewater railway centre is red-brown with a black truck.....
     
    It took four evenings to complete and paint so not a huge project and I`m pleased with the model. Still needs more painting to be done and a suitable match truck to be added..........
     

  18. ROSSPOP
    I still like making whitemetal kits but having moved into 7mm modelling this is to be the last. Bought through the O Guage Guild Society relatively cheaply with wheels included, I already had a motor and gearbox in the spares box. The kit is from the 1980`s and the body castings seemed reasonable. With some major fettling of the body parts I felt she would make a reasonable loco.
     

     
    By thinning the edges I felt she would have a much better profile.
     

     
     

     
     
    The boiler casting would really need some major work. I decided to remove all cast boiler bands.
     

     
     

     
     

     
     
    Then provide brass boiler bands to improve the look.

     
     

    She has been low melt soldered throughout due to the weight of a 7mm model.
     
     

     
     

     
    I would normally provide compensation on the chassis, but this time I did`nt bother as she weighs a ton and some!! But I did add some extra frame detail with plasticard.

     
     

     
     
    Having got this far i decided to scrap all the boiler and smokebox fittings as they looked overscale. I sourced alternative castings from various O guage suppliers. Overall I think it improved her looks no end.
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     
     
    Then it was off to the paint shop for etch priming and livery. Number plates and cab detailing and the Old Gal was done......
     

     
     
     

     
     

     
     
     

  19. ROSSPOP
    No point in building kits when Bachmann produce work like this. Converted to P4 using Alan Gibson wheelset plus his coupling rod etch. Not all RTR locos have accurate chassis but this one does so I changed her to plain coupling rods as there were failures with the fluted variety in real life.
     
    I upgraded buffer beam detail front and back and she is fitted with Zimo sound.......
     
     

     
     
     

  20. ROSSPOP
    Woodwork is not my strongest skill....... But the plan is to build a modest diorama/layout to feature my Churchill Halt model. Lightness and ease of transport is paramount with quality inbuilt lighting built early on so as to match the scenic work to my choice of illumination.
     
    It all has to fit into my shed without any fiddleyards set up....there will be one at each end of the project.
     
    I`ve based my modules on an article in RM Aug 2012 by Neale Burrows.
     

     
    MDF is too heavy so I was lucky to find all my timber from a local hardware shop.
    I started with a simple jig to drill four bolt holes at each end of what is to be four modules.
     

     
    Four sets of component parts to make odd sized modules based on length of halt platform and the position of pointwork and working crossing gates.
     

     
    Two modules at 3` 6". One at 2` 6". One at 4`
     

     
    We did have some sunshine ????
     

     
    Each module has a set of adjustable legs.
     

     
    I`ve decided to use 5mm foam core as track bed and scenic work
     

     
    Height from floor to track level is 3` 10" and the visual window will be H 12" L 13` 6"
     
    Modules are now complete enough for me to start laying track and wiring up.
     
    I am pleased with the light from LED lighting strips.
     
     
    I will start a tracklaying blog in a while...................
  21. ROSSPOP
    Having been back up in my attic rummaging around I found the very first RTR loco I purchased from Bachmann in 1999.
     
    According to a few RMWeb threads , this particular early example 31813 could be a victim to `Mazak Hypotrophia` I prefer that to `cancer`............
     
    ...............................................rather like this example on Ebay................................................................
     
     
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-OO-GAUGE-32-152-N-CLASS-BR-BLACK-EARLY-2-6-0-LOCOMOTIVE-31813/201436800836?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33834%26meid%3Dcecf8f40ed64425bbf020e4710eee1af%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D201436800836
     
     
    Or should I assume that after this amount of time my loco is safe ??????????
     
     
     
    I do hope so as she is a particular favourite being the first RTR I ever converted to P4 and now I wish to upgrade further............
     

  22. ROSSPOP
    It has taken me a while to get this model to work and look right. I hope this has been achieved.
     
    It was important to dig in the two gate mechanisms and then to lay the track.
     

     
    The servo`s worked well once I had callibrated them to be in crossing gate mode. However, I had not realised that first you needed to cancel out the bouncing signal mode and so although this short video
    looks reasonable, both gate hinge mechanisms broke when the servo flicked back into signal mode and slammed the gates agains the posts !!!!!!
     

     
    This mayhem did, however, lead me to completely redesign the hinges and make simple shock absorbing joints below baseboard.
     

     
    The blob of fluid is sweat from my brow !!!!!!!
     
    I guess one comment would be `dont use heavy white metal crossing gates in 7mm ` having said that, these Springside models crossing gates are an accurate GWR representation and it is a pity that a pedestrian side gate is not included.
     
    Studying the one picture of Sarsden Halt crossing that I have you can just make out those charactristic bars of `kissing gates` so I have had a go at representing these as accurately as I can.
     

     
    The white metal gate is from the Duncanmodels range.
     

     

     
    Obviously, everything awaits painting and ballasting in.....................
  23. ROSSPOP
    Nothing particularly new or exciting with trackmaking . Having used Exactoscale point kits in 4mm, I continued the theme by using C&L 7mm point kits which have everything you need and with which you can specify preferred rail chairs.... GWR twobolt of course.
     
    Having experienced annoying rust problems, and to some extent, soldering issues, with steel bullhead rail in 4mm I have chosen nickel silver rail for this project, which I am sure will make soldering joints more reliable over time and humidity.
     
    Making your own pointwork is a hobby in itself and isthe preferable option for this DCC project.
     
    There are three important wiring locations to think about.......
     
    Left and Right stockrails.........
     

     
    .....and the Frog.......
     

    I prefer to use suitably sized paxolin strip fixed to the plastic sleepers with Gorilla superglue. These will be drilled and dropper wires soldered on when affixed on the layout...
     

    I prefer to use blue tack to keep point timbers in place during assembly as it makes lifting the pint of the trackplan much simpler than double sided tape etc........
     
     
    Of course you will find that the slide chairs at the point blade end will fall off when you lift the track up... so I fix them and any other errant rail chairs in place with THIN Rocket superglue......
     
    For the plain track it`s the time honoured use of a track jig........ every fifth sleeper at the right end is unfixed and will be the location of the soldered dropper wires which will be hidden by `cosmetic chairs`

     
    Then off we jolly well !!!! ...............
     
     

  24. ROSSPOP
    So trackbuilding progresses at a sedate pace in the `senior` scale..... The way I had made the `servo` assisted crossing gates meant that I needed to fix them in place on the diorama before driving the `railroad` through.....
     

     
    I`m not gluing the track in place yet but am building in `sets` as I go along.....
     

     
    I`ve halted at the turnouts as I need to fabricate some 7mm sized turnout operating units.
     
     

    I `m intending to use the same system I have used in 4mm......angle cranks above and below baseboard connecting with rod and tube....
     
    These are some 7mm trade offerings I`ve gathered over the past year and have managed to make some robust units...

     
    The C&L turnout kits I`ve had for sometime and used rather thin paxolin as stretcher bars which I fabricated a holed lug as the attachment point for the actuator rod.
     

     
    thank goodness you can get 14BA nuts and bolts !!!!
     

     

  25. ROSSPOP

    Churchill Halt Trackwork 3

    By ROSSPOP,

    Trackplan is now down and a single slip has replaced the originals catchpoint to improve operating potential.
     
     

     
     
    Wiring follows the traditional dropper method disguised with suitably modified chairs......
     
     
     

     
     

     
     

     
    Turnout operating rods are now in place and awaiting completion under the baseboad.
     
     

     
     

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