Jump to content
 

ROSSPOP

RMweb Gold
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,754

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Blog Entries posted by ROSSPOP

  1. ROSSPOP
    Thinking a long way ahead towards making a small LMS layout project, I thought it might make a change if I ignored having a stationary goods yard hand crane.
     
    It might be more interesting if I had a mobile hand crane , so I searched the web for ideas and information and came up with this photo.
     

     
    Strictly speaking I think this is an ex LNWR version but there are similar Midland examples and I took a chance on a Meteor Models hand crane truck kit in 7mm , which is based on Midland Railway practice.
     
    Rather than bore you all with blow by blow construction I will start by saying that the kit is very much a mixed bag of both reasonable and poor white metal castings. The buffers are supposedly sprung but you have to drill the solid cast buffer housings first.
     
    The etched truck had fold up W irons which were badly drawn before being etched. These were replaced with Slaters compensated MR W irons that also had better axlebox castings.
     
    The kit had an atrocious piece of tatty wood for the jib, so this was replaced by a suitable size of square plastic, which I sanded to shape.
     
    The crane castings, however, were reasonably good. After cleaning up the crank wheel castings and painting all the parts prior to construction, the hand crane actually works!!!
     


     
     
     
    The crane truck finally turned out quite well.
     
     
     

     
    It has been difficult to establish what colour these cranes and trucks were painted. The preserved example at the Chasewater railway centre is red-brown with a black truck.....
     
    It took four evenings to complete and paint so not a huge project and I`m pleased with the model. Still needs more painting to be done and a suitable match truck to be added..........
     

  2. ROSSPOP
    With aging hands and eyesight this will be the last kit build for me as I`ve now got quite a selection of builds to play with, plus it`s time to start playing with them all.
     
    I`ve been wanting to build one of these for quite a while and took the plunge just after Christmas.   £ 400  gets you a complete kit including wheels and a motor/gearbox kit plus all the  detail parts in either lost wax or white metal including seating parts for the passenger saloon. Scorpio supply three instruction booklets, covering  the motor bogie, trailing bogie and body. It is a complex kit.
     
    As ever I kicked off with building  the motorised bogie and vertical boiler unit, starting with the coupling rods.
     

     
    There is a great set of etches in nickel silver for the bogie frames etc.  There is provision for beam compensation but I have opted for a fixed chassis as this is a complex build.
     

     
    Reading the instructions several times is essential for this kit as they flit about rather than flow in sequence.
     
    Nickel silver solders so well and I numbered the parts required at each stage.
     

     
     The etched bearing holes are accurately positioned.
     
     
    But I like to be doubly sure, as this mechanism will be difficult to be dismantled even for painting.
     

     
    I do like to have compensation with loco chassis but this would have added too much complication with the internal white metal detailing.
     

     

     
    The motion parts are very finely etched or lost wax which benefit from fettling before assembly.
     

     
     

     
    Not the simplest of ways to construct slide bars, but they do look the part.
     

     
    But after a bit of a clean up  it all comes together....
     

     
    .......................... more to follow...........................
     
     
     
  3. ROSSPOP
    No longer available so lucky to have snapped this one up on Ebay.


     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This project is to be a gradual enterprise as it was really an impulse purchase during 2014 when I had committed myself to building a GWR modular diorama/layout.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The layout is going well but by the end of the year I needed a break from it as I have always been a solo railway modeller.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This kit was calling out to me....... so I began construction January last year.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Dave Andrews has withdrawn this kit for the time being as there are some niggling problems that some might find annoying.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This is the most complex kit and largest loco I have started in 7mm . If you have read my other blogs you know I prefer a sprung loco chassis and I am prone to replace most visually obvious parts from HobbyDevelopments, PR Components and Laurie Griffin in order that all my loco stock are of the same standard.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I`ve never made a `state of the art kit` so I`m not sure what that really means but the etches in this kit for both loco and tender are well produced.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Dave advises in the instructions not to use the correct size wheels for his kit because of the tight clearances between the front drivers, but having asked about others experiences on the O Gauge Guild Forum many have used the correct size wheels with no problems.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I find a cuppa and a chocolate macaroon highly advantageous at the very beginning.......  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    As ever I start with the coupling rods......  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    There is absolutely nothing wrong with the etched loco springs but I need to fit cast white metal versions to match my other stock.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Because of the issue with the front drivers already mentioned, I needed to markout as accurately as I can the frame cutouts for the roller bearings, any error here or wandering away from the kit designers intentions will be diasterous when it comes to fitting the crossheads and front wheel brakes.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Not a lot of space !!!
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    It`s always a tentative time marking up and cutting out the frames for hornblocks. It is the most significant action in determining whether you will get a trouble free chassis and perhaps the whole point of a loco`s construction..... a faultlessly running model.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I usually power off the centre axle but this kit has quite a bit of detailing between the frames, so I will be using the rear axle .  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I have invested in a quality ABC Maxon motor and 38.1 gearbox. She will eventually be DCC sound.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Everything goes together well. and using an axle jig ensures accuracy.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I have replaced the inside motion bracket gubbins with HobbyDevelopment products.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    As expected not a lot of room between the drivers.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    All is well in the chassis dept....  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    No problems with the front bogie framework. A very workable and sure footed design.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    On to the cylinder blocks and crossheads. This assembly is very much part of the `face` of a GWR castle. There are enough parts to consider making a moving relief valve which connects through the front framework via a swivel linkage.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Unfortunately we come across the kits first niggling problem as the etched holes in the fold up cylinder blocks are misaligned.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Easily sorted once you find out how it should look.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Some very nice lost wax parts to make the slide bars , but does require fettling and drilling.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The relief valve rod is too short to make into a moving part so I needed to fabricate a longer length during my attempt at using the ` Guy Williams flicking link movement`.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Some of the cylinder blocks detailing parts are also white metal so you need to prioritise the order of solder assembly to avoid melting them.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Sorted !!!  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    There are no problems with construction of the footplate.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Annealing helps with forming the curved parts.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    The splashers need filing to get a finer top edge which will be left shining brass in the finished form.  
     
     
     
     

    The firebox shaping is helped by the parts supplied and by annealing.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    The smokebox needs soldering with care as the front is a white metal.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    The boiler is soldered up in the usual fashion.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    All three boiler sections are bolted together.  
     
     

     
     
     

    It will take time to file and fettle around the base of the firebox to get a level fit between the rear splashers. Care must be taken to get it all level with the smokebox and its whitemetal saddle at the front.  
     
     

     
     
     

    Once this is achieved the boiler bands can be tinned and soldered in place.  
     
     

     
     
     

    The second niggle is that nearly all the pre etched washout plug holes in the sides of the firebox are in the wrong place, mostly too low and this takes time to make good.  
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    An error of my own making is that I chose the wrong shape on the front edge of the extended frames and had to rebuild it into a curved front.  
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    The front bogie has its own central spring and so I had to balance the weight using lead sheet. these will not be finally used until completion of the build.  
     
     

     
     
     

    Roof and cab is well detailed and care needs to be taken in bending the roof to the correct profile.  
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    At this point in the build I took a break........  
     
     

     
     
     


    Building recommenced this January commencing with adding some footplate details.  

     


     


     

    Then a brief push by hand trial through my B6 turnouts.  

     


     
     
     

    Encouraged by this I have pushed on with finishing the chassis detailing with fitting the braking system, and fitting the plunger pickups.  


     


     


     
     
     

     
     
     

    She currently sits in my cabinet calling me to do further work........  

     


  4. ROSSPOP
    It has taken me a while to get this model to work and look right. I hope this has been achieved.
     
    It was important to dig in the two gate mechanisms and then to lay the track.
     

     
    The servo`s worked well once I had callibrated them to be in crossing gate mode. However, I had not realised that first you needed to cancel out the bouncing signal mode and so although this short video
    looks reasonable, both gate hinge mechanisms broke when the servo flicked back into signal mode and slammed the gates agains the posts !!!!!!
     

     
    This mayhem did, however, lead me to completely redesign the hinges and make simple shock absorbing joints below baseboard.
     

     
    The blob of fluid is sweat from my brow !!!!!!!
     
    I guess one comment would be `dont use heavy white metal crossing gates in 7mm ` having said that, these Springside models crossing gates are an accurate GWR representation and it is a pity that a pedestrian side gate is not included.
     
    Studying the one picture of Sarsden Halt crossing that I have you can just make out those charactristic bars of `kissing gates` so I have had a go at representing these as accurately as I can.
     

     
    The white metal gate is from the Duncanmodels range.
     

     

     
    Obviously, everything awaits painting and ballasting in.....................
  5. ROSSPOP
    She is now ready for the paint shop but I will need daylight for spraying so I will delay that for warmer weather.
     
    She was `run in` today which showed her bouncing up and down on her front axle springing. So, I added `liquid lead` and sheet lead to her front end to balance her ride qualities.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    This evening I tested her fine movement with an AMR controller. Despite being a 37 year old kit with an open frame motor of `yesteryear` I`m quite pleased. She should be even better with a ZIMO MX 645 decoder.
     

  6. ROSSPOP

    Getting it all together.

    By ROSSPOP,

    Something has to be done with my languishing Churchill project this year. The trouble is I am going of the idea of having a through station and don`t relish the work to make two fiddle yards at either end.
     

     
    I`m leaning towards changing it all to a GWR country terminus complete with an Engine shed so that I can keep it all in the shed and just play trains whenever I feel like it. And of course start another layout project afterwards.
     

     
    The signal box is based on St Mary`s Crossing
     

     
    The main buildings are based on Portesham in Dorset...
     

     

     
    Do I go for it ?? just the Engine shed and cattle dock to complete. And of course a new platform........
     

  7. ROSSPOP
    Well tis` all done.
     
    She left the paint shop on Friday and just needed the cab details painted up
     

     
    Then Saturday saw the arrival of her etched No and builders plates from Severnmill products.
     
    Not one of my absolute best builds and there were a lot of self inflicted problems along the way.
     
    But she does look the bizz....
     
     
     
    Any how , this month is a ten year anniversary of joining the Gauge O Guild. In 2008 I purhased a brass RTR GWR Pannier Tank from Tower Models.
     
    She looked lovely....at first but I soon fell out of love with her over quite a few issues I could not accept.
     
    So I painted her up in Wartime livery and sold her on.
     

     
    Ten years later I`ve finally replaced her.............................
     

     

     
     
     

     
    She`s a bit of a `rocker` on the rolling road which I think is due to a rogue Slaters driver as the rock is much less noticeable on the track but nevertheless has been there right from the very beginning of the chassis build.
     

     

    Cheers
     
    Johnny Rosspop
  8. ROSSPOP
    I always wanted a Dukedog when working in 4mm, so this was a kit I could`nt resist. I`ve based her on 3216 in 1945 condition as the kit had a plain tender and matched the picture I had found.
     

     
    I purchased replacements for the dome and safety valve and leading driver chassis spring detail , together with all the cab detailing parts from HobbyDevelopments. I hate etched lamp irons so replacements were obtained from Laurie Griffin Miniatures.
     
    I chose a Slaters enclosed gearbox and Mashima1833 motor.
     
    As always, I started proceedings with making the coupling rods.
     

     
    Then assembling and preparing the frame etches to take roller bearing hornblocks. This time I used the delux version.
     

     

     

     
     
     
    Assembling the chassis using axle jig was straight forward
     

     
     
     
    For the front bogie I used Slaters hornblocks as these could be shaped to match the inner bogie side frames and allow some ride height adjustment when set up in the main chassis.
     

     
    I opted for springy wire rather than the springs as these were too fierce for the bogie application.
     

     
     
     
    I ended up with a nice fully sprung chassis and proceeded with adding wheels and motor plus breakgear to make sure all fitted well with no potential for shorting out as she eventually will have DCC sound.
     

     
    Also, I needed the motor in place in order to shape and fettle the firebox around the motor at a later stage.
     

     
    Next up, was the footplate and cab. The kit instructions a pretty straight forward here.
     

     
    The firebox is an easy build bt you do need to add extra metal fillet at the front in order to safetly shape the top edge.
     

     

     
    Then on to fitting everything around that motor, in my case , making allowances for having a sprung chassis.
     

     

     
    Then it is on to shaping and soldering up the smokebox and fitting the brass tube boiler in between. I also had to fit and modify the whitemetal cosmetic `bearings`.There was a gap to be filled with scrap brass where the rear splashers enter the front of cab.
     

     
    Care is needed to make sure of squareness in all planes before final solder.
     

     
    There is a lot of detailing work around the front boiler and bogie
     

     
    From here on in it is pure detailing...... starting with marking out and soldering the boiler bands which are supplied within the kit.
     

     
    I`ve previously mentioned replacing the dome and safety valve for better examples, but that is a personal choice.
     

     
    I also replaced the buffers with more accurate versions from HobbyDevelopments.
     

     
    I think this where better quality lamp irons come into their own.
     
     
     
    The tender construction has only one potential challenge and that is soldering the half round rod to form the tender beading.
     
    The parts make into a very neat chassis. I opted for fabricating a sprung centre axle only.
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    The rest of the tender build is very easy and enjoyable and overall makes into a very stable model.
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
    Etch primer finish from Phoenix/Precision and a final coat of their satin varnish.
     


     
     
     
    I have already mentioned replacing all the cab detailing parts with those from the HobbyDevelopment range and I think this is important with an open cab loco.
     

     
     
     

    I have now fitted her with DCC Sound.
     
     
     


  9. ROSSPOP
    This project is another part of my lockdown efforts.
     
    Warren Shepard`s small prairie kit was the only kit of this type available at the time of purchase and I`ve needed to replace the heavy whitemetal kit of the 45XX that I constructed back in 2009.
     
     I`ve never made this make of kit before and was encouraged in my research regarding the quality of his  lost wax castings supplied with each kit. I also studied P A D`s 2017 build of this very kit and was made aware of a few of the kit`s short Cummings ( tee! hee!).
     
    The kit has a plethora of guidlines and diagramatical illustrations but no numbered written instructions to follow. Also this is not a tab and slot designed kit. So, if you are shy of soldering and possible anealing  as well as shy of riveting  this kit is probably not for you.
     
    You are required to work a bit  to achieve a good build so I will see how things go.........................
     
    I always start with the coupling rods and for this kit a set of jointed Premier Components are supplied. That saves a few hours work...
     
     

     
    The next job is to fabricate some sprung hornblocks and I chose from my broom cupboard a set  of Slaters old style nylon honblocks as I needed an adjustable axle ride height.
     

     
    Once these had been fettled up I used some metal blackening solution to save time later on together with the preparation and blackening of a set of Slaters wheels.
     

     
    I like to have very smooth backs of the wheel treads to  reduce the braking effect of plunger pickups.
     
     
    Warrens chassis design is made from substantially thick brass etchings so I am using an 80watt bog standard Antex soldering iron with my all time favourite flux Baker`s Fluid which I have been using since the 1960`s.
     
    But before that You will need to mark and drill the brake hanger positions and rear sandbox positions which are not pre etched. I also needed to use some measured scratchings to position the axle ride height as designed for this kit before I cut out the hornblock slots.
     

     
     

     
     

     
    Time spent here will save a lot of tears later on. I also marked and drilled out the plunger pickup positions which are best placed at the axle centreline position so as not to impede the wheel suspension movement.  I also fettled and soldered up the driving wheel springs so as not to melt the nylon hornblocks.
     

     
    Having mentioned the lack of tabs and slots , there are  two chassis stretchers that are so...... but the slots are etched in the wrong places....more on this easily rectified issue later.
     
    Next is to fettle up and prepare all parts needed for the chassis assembly.
     

     
    The two cylinder block stretchers are designed to make the whole cylinder assembly completely removeable to which they are very useful parts  to keep things square during assembly and soldering up.  I needed to cut notches in two of the stretchers to accommodate the hornblock positions. The two stretchers with the incorrect slot positions were sorted out at this stage as they are both required to be the correct height for the two bogie trucks.
     
    The front stretcher I was able to solder to the rear of the chassis block to which it does have corresponding slots and tabs and does not need to be soldered to the chassis sides. Slots have to be cut to accommodate the hornblocks and the brake hanger rod and the plunger pickup positions   to make it all removeable.
     

     
    If you see what I mean.....
     

     
    Eventually you can produce a very substantial solid chassis frame.....
     

     
     
    Here you can see where the original slots are too high in the chassis sides....
     

     
    It was easy to use this datum to match the height of the front stretcher....
     

     
    Once all that was sussed.... everything else was plain sailing....
     

     
    ...with the exception of some crude springs to replace the originals that are far too strong for this application.  My easy method of jigging evrything in place for a trouble free chassis and motion.
     
    And finally a wiz- popping free running basic chassis.....

     
     
    Next a pleasant evening putting together the two identical bogie trucks from Warrens brilliant quality castings...
     
     

     
     
    The back to finishing off the cylinder block mainframe...... requiring some riveting and metal bending....
     

     
    and  a wee bit of finger burning.....
     

     
     

     
     

     
    Knowing that I have a sweet running chassis I ventured on to perhaps the most challenging parts of the kit.
     
    Warren has cunningly produced a printed riveting guide which you cut out and stick to the rear of the loco tank sides, rear, and front footplate and then apply the rivets using these guides.
    Apparently the printed guides don`t match up to the etchings and I could`nt be arsed , so I used them to mark all rivets by hand and then rivet in the usual way.......
     

     
    Job done in one evening.........
     
     
    And now.... the real build begins..........
     
     

     
    I felt the front footplate needed annealing to get that curved bend...... it was a b%$$£r to flatten out aferwards....
     

     
    ...despite a few dents for added realism I just about got away with it.......... this time....
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  10. ROSSPOP
    The very first 7mm etched brass effort. Snapped up on Ebay complete with Slaters wheels.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Certainly for locomotives , I am a follower of the principles of sprung hornblocks as a means of maintaining good electrical contact with the track, smoother movement through pointwork and track joints between baseboards and more importantly for me at least, springing enhances the `weight and shear presence` of a loco on the track by drastically reducing the wobbles of a fixed chassis. I have been convinced in 4mm modelling and so this was to be an essential element in my 7mm constructions.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I have always been used to the Kean Maygib plastic hornblocks in 4mm, but could`nt get as much precision with regard to movement with the brass bearings in the 7mm version made by Slaters.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I eventually came across these roller bearing hornblocks by HobbyHolidays that enabled me to continue with using a MetalSmiths axle jig to accurately set up coupling rods to hornblocks. Such a simple way to quickly assemble a trouble free working chassis mechanism and ridding the loco building universe from timewasting trying to find that elusive `binding` nightmare of a wonky chassis.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The Scorpio kit was designed as a `beam compensated` chassis, but I`ve never been totally successfull at building one.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Obviously, consideration has to be given to cutting out the hornblock positions. I usually base this around where the kit has got its bearing holes positioned in order to maintain the correct axle height, particularly in rgard to connecting rods and GWR crossheads.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The chassis frames provided are accurate and have plenty of rivet detail to be added.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Assembling the cylinder blocks and crossheads was hampered by the way the kit was organised. The crosshead castings are lost wax and poorly cast. They needed a lot of fettling and still looked wrong.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The cylinder wrappers need annealing to make forming to shape more maneagable. The vacuum pump is a solid whitemetal casting but I fabricated a replacement from brass tubing to make it a working pump even though it is tucked up under the loco valence.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    You can see the wonky crosshead castings more clearly on this pic. I later disguised things by adding further detailing from the excellent parts from Peter Roles Components.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    To keep costs down I opted for a Mashima 1833 motor and fold up gearbox. If set up properly it will produce good performance, particularly with DCC control. Clearance is tight between the crossheads and leading crankpin. I shortened the Slaters bearing and made the coupling rod bearing hole a little thinner.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The basic chassis completed and performing very well.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I invested in a MetalSmith rivetter as there are many pre-etched rivets to form in the superstructure.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    No problems with assembling the footplate and valence.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Care to be taken in making sure chassis and footplate are square before soldering the captive nuts in place. The more decerning modeller will not be happy with the cylinder block profile as the angle of the block is too severe.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    A fairly easy assembly of the superstructure, there was a poor fit between the saddle and smokebox that needed extra time and thought to solve.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The rear corners and rear top section are lost wax castings of average quality, but a good fit. I always find lost wax more difficult to fettle if not right.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The firebox is at least two millimetres too long and so the cab front plate sits too far into the cab. I did`nt know this at the time, but I had decided on `no heroics` and made the kit as it came.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The roof is designed to be removable to be able to detail the cab and is a fiddle to get to sit correctly.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Detailing parts are a mixture of lost wax and white metal and all need tidying, however, the kit is well provided for. The chimney is probably too small and the safety valve cover leans forward.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Overall, it eventually makes up into an attractive model if you persevere.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I use Phoenix/Precision two part etch primer to ensure that detailing is not buried under too thick a layer of primer. Precision paint was from a fifty mil tin I purchased in the 1970`s !!  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Cab details are provided for in the kit (not the figures).  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Finished with Phoenix/Precision satin varnish.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This what I think differentiates between some RTR and Kits........ you don`t get those nice wafer thin metal edges in plastic models........  
     
     


    I have fitted her with DCC sound.......  
     
     


  11. ROSSPOP
    At the time I started this kit, no one else made a 93XX Mogul. From what I had researched other modellers had made quite a decent example of the type.
     
    I was aware that the etches were well researched and produced but lacked a lot of rivet detailing. With the exception of the chimney and sefety valve, I replaced all the white metal detailing parts with those produced by HobbyDevelopments, including the tender springs and axle boxes.
     
    As is my preferred modus operandi , I started with coupling rods and roller bearing hornblocks to produce a sprung chassis.
     

     

     

     
     
     
    With this kit the cylindr blocks and crossheads were very well produced and needed no replacements.
     
    After soldering on the hornblocks I added cast white metal loco springs from HobbyDevelopments.
     
    Power was to be from a Mashima 1833 and fold-up 40-1 gearbox.
     
    The frames provided made a very substantial chassis assembly. The front bogie was a very nice fold-up etch.
     
     
     
    The etches are quite a thick gauge so some parts benefit from annealing to make bending easier.
     

     
    I slowly built things up from the footplate and added extra rivet detailing by referring to photographs.
     

     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    The firebox is mostly devoid of detailing and so this was fabricated by me and from parts from Peter Roles Components.
     

     

     

     

     
     
     
    Interestingly the smokebox saddle was detailed with 14BA screws and nuts supplied in the kit.
     

     
     
     
    Fettling was required to get the boiler unit seated correctly.
     

     

     
     
     
    From here on in it was down to slowly building up the extra detailing .
     

     

     

     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    The cab backplate was superdetailed with scale fittings
     

     
    I did`nt document the tender construction. The rivets were pre etched on the rear of the sides to help with the rivetting. I sprung the centre axle.
     

     
     
     
     
     
    Spray painted using Phoenix etch primer and GWR colours with a satin varnish. Plates by SevernMill.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    I have also fitted DCC sound.
     
     
     


  12. ROSSPOP
    I still like making whitemetal kits but having moved into 7mm modelling this is to be the last. Bought through the O Guage Guild Society relatively cheaply with wheels included, I already had a motor and gearbox in the spares box. The kit is from the 1980`s and the body castings seemed reasonable. With some major fettling of the body parts I felt she would make a reasonable loco.
     

     
    By thinning the edges I felt she would have a much better profile.
     

     
     

     
     
    The boiler casting would really need some major work. I decided to remove all cast boiler bands.
     

     
     

     
     

     
     
    Then provide brass boiler bands to improve the look.

     
     

    She has been low melt soldered throughout due to the weight of a 7mm model.
     
     

     
     

     
    I would normally provide compensation on the chassis, but this time I did`nt bother as she weighs a ton and some!! But I did add some extra frame detail with plasticard.

     
     

     
     
    Having got this far i decided to scrap all the boiler and smokebox fittings as they looked overscale. I sourced alternative castings from various O guage suppliers. Overall I think it improved her looks no end.
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     
     
    Then it was off to the paint shop for etch priming and livery. Number plates and cab detailing and the Old Gal was done......
     

     
     
     

     
     

     
     
     

  13. ROSSPOP
    This completes my 14month back -to back LMS loco kit build project.
     

     

     
    I discovered that the Canon 1833 motor is intolerant to any hint of feedback so I track tested with pure DC power which does not give the very `fine` motor control I will eventually achieve once she is fitted with the superior Zimo MX645 decoder.
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
    Panic set in over the possible demise of 7mm loco kits now that the epoc of quality 7mm RTR has arrived..................................
     
    see ya!
     
    John
  14. ROSSPOP
    This is a Modern Outline Kit but I`m not going to give a blow by blow constructional account as it has already been done by many others.
     
    However, my version will be based on No 4851 in 1939 when the rear left hand side steps and access handrail was fitted and also still had he original auto-gear which I have never seen modelled.
     
    I bought the kit in April 2013 with my long service cash award for 40 years at the sharp end in the NHS.......... so thankyou tax payers !!
     
     
     
    This is a top- notch excellent kit...not perfect.... but excellently designed and thought through. Not for the absolute beginner but if you patiently read and follow the instructions you will enjoy how the kit is meant to be assembled.
     
    The `not perfect` comment is because certain details have been mandatory and therefore not representative of early versions. The lamp brackets, for instance , are etchings which I dislike and are pre etched in the wrong positions for my version. The rear side steps are positioned with pre etched slots half of which are blocked off by a lost wax casting and drilling lost wax castings into a slot shape aint easy.
     
    A minority of the smaller lost wax castings are poor quality and ill- defined.
     
    But nevertheless it is the best 7mm kit of this loco on the market.
     
    So, the chassis has brilliant beam compensation designed in............
     

     
    The body is assembled by a novel tab, slot and twist method followed up with minimal soldering..............
     

     
    .......... and if you are careful there is provision for opening doors...........
     
    Original Auto-Gear 1930`s style with no hood on the buffer beams and just a single socket and lead...........
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    The kit does not supply push-pull gear but is available through Peter Roles Components which has enough parts to be adapted for this early version.
     
    I also used components from Peter Roles to replace those smaller ill-defined items and also his cast GWR lamp irons and vacuum and heating hoses.
     

     
    just some pipe work detailing on the chassis to complete.........................
     

     
    ....and then to fabricate the full cab detailing supplied with the kit....then she will be ready for the paint shop.........
  15. ROSSPOP
    As you all know, in my other blog, I found a previously unfinished 4mm version of a Johnson 1P in the attic stored away and decided to finish it......

    Now that I`ve moved into 7mm modelling, but entirely GWR, I had been bitten with an LMS bug and decided to investigate the Slaters 7mm version. There were no real negative comments about such a kit that I could find, and so, I sold some stock to fund the purchase.
     
    The Slaters 7mm Johnson 1P kit dates from the mid 1980`s. so it is`nt a, so called, state of the art kit. Having said that, it is supplied as a `complete kit` so no extras are needed.
    It`s not supplied with a Belpair boilered option , but I`m happy to build her as an LMS 1930`s push-pull version in beautiful all black with intermediate passenger livery and a few polished brass bits!!!!
     
    She will be No 1260 based at Bedford , my home town.
     
     
     
    Way back in the early 1980`s I discovered for myself at least that sprung hornblocks provided a most reliable way of improving loco performance whereby all wheels are on the track despite any track irregularities. I think it also maximises electrical pickup provided the right type of pickups are fitted. I have carried this preference forward into 7mm construction. I also like the idea of using the loco coupling rods as a jig for establishing accurate axle and hornblock alignment at all times which in turn eliminates all those hours wasted trying to find out why a chassis binds or works in one direction better than the other.....for me at least it means I can get it right everytime.....
     
    With this slaters kit,however, I was unable to follow this tried and tested method in full. The kit makes up into a fully sprung system, but the hornblocks are etched foldup tabs as part of the chassis etchings and do not have any form of screw adjustment to ride height either....... so new territory for me ......
     
     
     
     
     
    I decided to begin with making the rear bogie as a way of assessing the kits accuracy and also discover any failings on my part in making up the Slaters hornblocks

     
    The bogie hornblocks differ from the main chassis as the hornblocks are assembled by soldering on the axle box guides as seperate units
     

     
    However, if you take your time at each stage and read the instructions making sure everything moves freely with NO SLOP, you will find few problems that can`t be solved with a minimum of fettling.
     
     
     

     
     
     

    I think it makes up into a very clever designed sprung bogie mechanism. with both axles at 90degrees to the chassis with no lateral axle movement. A very free running set up.
     
    I opted for black foam between the two brass washers instead of the plasticard provided as an extra level of adjustment.
     
    The only problem encountered was a wrong drill size written in the instructions.
     
     
     
     
     
    So... on to the main chassis fret..............

    As already mentioned, the hornguides are attached to the chassis etch and the instructions suggested folding and soldering these first before bending the main chassis into its U shape.
     
    I did`nt feel this suited me at all and chose another way..........
     

    I opted to fold the chassis sides first and then fold up the hornblocks as there is plenty of room between the frames to solder easily. I had also at this stage made up the coupling rods to check on the accuracy by lining them up with the fixed spring stop etch...... all looked to be accurate.....
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    After reaming the axle boxes and preparing the main drivers I assembled the coupling rods and was amazed and pleased that the chassis ran absolutely faultlessly with no fettling of the rods required. No slop at all and a very free running design.
     
    Still plenty of detail to be added later on but now I have a solid chassis to work with I will now proceed with the loco body and make sure every thing lines up.......
     
     
     
    These are my preferred sprung hornblocks, although the plastic Slaters have been upgraded and are not adjustable...
     

     


     

    I prefer to make coupling rods first and then after cutting out the frames use them with a Metalsmiths axle jig to solder everything in place........
     

  16. ROSSPOP
    I suspect , like a lot of railway modellers, I could`nt see the point in struggling to build a locomotive kit to the same standard of finish as Bachmann and Hornby have been producing since my first purchase of a 4mm Bachmann Jinty, in the new highly detailed standards, back in 2005.
    For a long while I drifted away from loco kit building in 4mm, not that I ever made larger locos of 4-6-0 or 4-6-2 types, I did`nt need them for my end to end set-ups.
    It did`nt matter that nearly all of the RTR locos purchased with outside valve gear had dog leg coupling rods and trembling piston rods and linkages when powered up on the test track. Binding and poor running did`nt matter either as I needed to change the wheels to 18.83 guage in any case which immediately improved their performance.
    Having had a preference for P4 modeling since the early 1980`s there was an added bonus in that the RTR locos I was interested in had one fully sprung driver axle ,so providing a small amount of compensation and maintaining good electrical contact with the track. All such converted RTR stock has run faultlessly through my P4 pointwork.
     
    Sadly, my more recent RTR purchases have lacked the provision of a sprung driver and those with a long wheelbase have proved to be too unreliable when converted to scale profile rims ( Bachmann SDJR 7F).
     
    With the onset of retirement has come the opportunity to rationalise my 4mm loco collection and with it the realisation, to me anyway, that my kit built stock still hold their own with the quality RTR we have had available to us over the past 10years. There are a couple of provisos ,however, and that is the kit built locos superstructure should be in etched brass or nickel silver. RTR locos should have replacement coupling rods ( usually using the Alan Gibson etched replacements).
     
    Etched brass kits emulate more realistically the sheet metal fabrication of the protoype, particularly the edges of footplate and cab cutouts etc which photograph much better in closeup.
     
    Likewise, when looking at the motion parts of RTR locos the coupling rods are far too thin and unconvincing especially the crankpin boss profile. A lot of RTR locos in close up appear to have running plates a scale 1 inch thick or more and overall look `plasticky`
     
    Cast white metal loco kits , for me , do not produce a fine enough finish.
     
    So, for me, I have purchased my last RTR locomotive, sold my last whitemetal loco and constructed my last etched brass kit in 4mm scale at least.
     
     
    The last Whitemetal Kit.....................
     

     
    A Kemilway BR 3MT with portescap motor.
     

     
    Good for it`s time (1980`s) but a lot of errors in bodywork design. Has sprung compensation. A beautifully designed etched chassis kit .
    Constructed about 7 years ago and sold last year.
     
     
    Replaced by the far superior Bachmann Class 3........
     

    Replacement Alan Gibson wheel set and coupling rod set which fit the models wheelbase precisely, enabling me to re-work the movement of the working parts.
    She does`nt have a sprung driver, so has no compensation at all. Yet being a short wheelbase is very surefooted through P4 pointwork. All my other non sprung RTR converted stock has been sold.

     
    To me she is the best RTR Bachmann production......perfection would be that missing sprung driver...........
     
     
     

     
    Here she is with the last etched kit.
  17. ROSSPOP
    This is the last of my MR/ LMS loco kit builds.
     
    I bought this kit last December and started it this month.
     
    It has`nt been the easiest of builds and this has been a combination of my own attitude to some of the kit`s idiosyncrasies and a subsequent dip in my assembly skills perhaps.
     
    This is a kit that you will definitely need an 80watt soldering iron as it has thick nickel silver chassis etches and thick brass etches for the bodywork.
     
    There is no provision for any chassis compensation but there are half etched hornblock lines and ride height markings.
     

     
    The brake hangers and blocks look good, but the brake rod adjusters and controls are a weakness in this kit.
     

     
    I`m not a fan of etched axle springs either but fortunately Laurie Griffin makes a number of lost wax castings for this particular loco class.
     

     
    I`ve chosen sprung hornblocks and for the first time a Branchlines 40.1 fold up gearbox with a Cannon motor.
    Assembly is simple with the use of basic axle jigs and coupling rods.
     

     
    After preparation of the chassis sides the kit makes a very strong chassis framework.
     

     

     
    The bogie is a straight forward non compensated assembly.
     

     

     
    I shall be using Laurie Griffen parts to complete a more substantial brake assembly than is provided for in the kit.
  18. ROSSPOP
    Having built all my GWR loco kits and won`t be doing anymore ever, it`s time to move over and build some coaches.
     
    I have got a token RTR GWR auto-coach from the Lionheart stable but my preference has always been to build kits as these will have my own build compromises rather than the manufacturers.
     
    Anyway, I was lucky enough to snap this Cavalier B set on ebay back in 2012 and made an initial assessment of what was needed back then.
     
    Serious construction then started last November so as to be some alternative project during the building of my last two loco kits.
     
    Cavalier kits were the biz back in 1985 and were way too expensive for me back then.
     
    you get quite a bit for your monies......................................
     

     
    Nice pre-formed and VERY thick brass coach sides.....tin plated pre-shaped roof.... fold-up etched truss framework and then all white metal underframe detailing, coach ends and bogie kits plus wheels.
     
    Having very thick gauge brass draws a lot of heat from a soldering iron and I needed every watt from my 80W Antex iron.
     
    The kit represents a GWR 60` Bow-ended B set with recessed door handles and guards door.
     

     
    Folding up the recessed door etches was hard going......
     

     
    The recessed door handles was much easier going........
     

     
    .......and I finished the recessed guards door with Milliput Filler.
     

     
    CPL Models produce some very juicy 7mm coach detailing products and I used their fold up door hinges and door stops to upgrade the kit as I went along.
     

     
    Drilling small holes in the thick coach sides caused a lot of cheap drill casualties !!!
     

     
    The next challenge was to be soldering white metal cast ends in place. For this I used Carrs 100deg low melt solder ( Carrs yellow label flux is essential) which needs no pre-tinning of the brass sides.
     

     
    I don`t possess a temperature controlled iron so in true cheap-skate style I merely switch off my 80watt iron for 1.5mins and she`s then ready for 4mins of whitemetal soldering !!!!!...... but like a full Porta Loo on a camp site you need to be in and out quick !!!!
     
    Then solder on the tin -plate roof and brass rain strip and trim everything up.
     
    The bottom edges of the coach sides have a pre-folded recess to take the pre cut `hard board` flooring. There are also pre-folded brass channel chassis frames and white metal frame ends. This assembly bolts on to the bottom of the coach end castings .
     

     
    The kit has etched thick brass fold up angle irons for the underframe trusses..... impossible to fold without making a `pigs ear` for me anyway, so I replaced with brass angle strips....much easier and better looking in the long run...
     

     
    ....and it`s not a difficult job to complete. I did use the etched centre truss support brackets supplied.
     

     
    The cast whitemetal bogie kits are not compensated and go together very well.... no brake blocks but looks the biz..
     

     
    Next I added further detailing parts from CPL Models plus some scratch handrails of my own to supe rdetail the outer coach ends...
     

     
    The kits have a simple and ingenious way of springing the buffers which are cast lostwax offerings
     
    These kits have a good supply of chassis components which need a minimum of cleaning up ready for assembly....
     

     
    I have completed both coach underframes this week....a couple of evenings work....most satisfying.....
     

    .... note the use of PCB strips for the running boards.....
     

     
    So far .... so good.........
     

     
    This week has seen the final amount of detailing prior to etch priming.........
     

     

     
     
     

  19. ROSSPOP
    A most awkward and troublesome kit. I can understand now why I spent those years in the early 1980`s trying to make all those 4mm etched Jidenco loco kits, it was to prepare the way for making this model in 7mm.............
     
    I had previously seen a few made by others and felt there was some potential for the kit and I had always fancied a 1930`s GWR diesel railcar also known as a `flying banana`.
    I knew it was likely to be a challenge and I had never worked with resin in a kit before, particularly resin and brass etch and the joining of the two together !!!!
     
    At least it is a complete kit with wheels, motor and seating.......
     
    Well, It certainly was`nt going to require sprung axles so a start with making a working powered bogie was the first step.
     

     
    The first surprise was that the etched holes were far too big for the bearings supplied. Luckily some left over bearings from the previous JM loco kit were a better fit.
     
    The motor suppled needs a worm gear attached to both shaft ends to power both axles, not an over easy task to get set up without motor and gear `growl`
     

     
    The bogies comprise of an inner frame to which the outer framing forms the dummy side frames. At this early stage I was aware that the one side insulated axles would give me a `` live`` frame which is a potential area of concern with DCC, but not impossible.
     

     
    By carefull adjustment and gentle running in I ended up with a fairly quiet powered bogie as per the instructions.
     

     
    The outer framework needed tidying up with files and extra rivet details were added using pictorial reference. The white metal castings were of reasonable quality and were superglued in place.
     

     

     
    The brackets are to be a nut and bolt attachment to the main chassis frame.
     
     
     
    Pickups are phospher bronze strip with a round brass contact point soldered on.
     

     
     
     
    The chassis as designed proved to be too weak and prone to bending. Because the body work is 75% resin along its entire length, the chassis needed strengthening. Also, the ride height of the bogies was far too high and the chassis needed lowering over the bogie centres by at least 5mm.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    As already mentioned the body is made up of resin ends and roof with etched brass sides and internal dividers.
     
    The ends are reasonably square and robust.
     

     
    But...... the roof sections have warped badly ( 1985 KIT) .
     

     
    I used several immersions in very very hot water and some judiscious tweeking to straighten them out.
     

     
    A dry run indicated potential weaknesses in the construction.
     

     
    And so I used brass rod spigots as a strengthening method.
     

     
    The etched sides were rolled to the same profile as the resin ends and attached to the resin roof and ends with superglue.
     

     
    However, the resin roof sections over the next week gradually returned to their bowed shape and began to detach from the etched sides.
     

     
     
     
    There is not much of a surface area between the brass sides and the edge of the resin roof sections to make an effective bonding surface.
     

     
    So my solution was to drill holes in the top edge of the brass sides and push through some interference fit brass rods, which would be soldered to the brass sides and fixed by Araldite to the inside of the resin roof sections.
     

     

     
     
     
    With the sides now securely fixed I could think about fitting the central and end doors which are recessed into the sides. Here , the kit is a shambles, with poor draughtmanship and etching. The kit suggests keeping the sides fairly flat when in reality they are curved at the lower edges , as are the doors.
     

     
    This all required a lot of filling and shaping with Green Stuff filler. The roof joins also needed filling and carefull sanding to maintain the correct profile. I used thin guaged wire to tidy up the roof above the central sliding doors. I also went to a lot of effort to solder on a moulding strip along the top, middle and bottom of the sides to improve the look of the model and match the moulding on the resin ends.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    There is a great deal of work to be done in tidying up the sides and roof. Once this was done I moved on to detailing the roof.
     

     
    The kit provides white metal roof vents and these need to be seated on square bases which I fabricated from plasticard.
     
    I also spent time in fitting the ATW cable,added in the 1930`s, and conduit to add some much needed roof detail.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    She was now beginning to look like a reasonable model.
     

     
     
     
    Some final detailing added...... guard irons to bogies which I fabricated from some angle strip.
     

     
    I tried to track down some decent brass horns but in the end had to tidy up what was supplied in the kit.
     

     
    The seats over the diesel engines are higher, so all this I fabricated from plasticard to keep the weight down as I felt by this time she was getting very heavy for a single motored model.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
    I have organised the model to have a removable chassis with seating attached.
     

     
     
     
    After a thorough clean up, I proceeded to the painting stage. My usual preference is to prime with Phoenix/Precision two part primer.
     

     
    For this project however, I needed a primer that was a little thicker and for this I always use Teroson available from C&L. Expensive perhaps but always reliable.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    I also use Tamiya masking tape products, particularly their tapes with attached plastic sheeting.
     
    This project would need a lot of masking !!!!
     

     
     
     
    Here she is basking in the sunshine outside my `erecting shed` in her first coat of GWR cream.
     

     
    I have learnt the hard way , that you need to leave each finished coat of paint at least a five day week before re-masking for the next.
     

     
    You also need to use quality masking products.
     
    For this project I needed to mask for the GWR Cream, Chocolate, White and Black, so that took one month in summer !!!
     

     
    In the 1930`s some of these Railcars had either a two shades of white roof, or as in this model a central black painted section.
     

     
     
     

     
    Then it was out with the lining pen and transfers..........
     
    Don`t you just hate being watched while you work?
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    Well having purchased HMRS GWR coach pressfix decals I was annoyed that there are not enough to complete two sides of a railcar !!!!!
     

     
     
     
    I used plasticard strip to fabricate the wooden slatted blinds that you can just make out in photos.
     

     
    I also used plasticard for the white sun shades on the driving end windows.
     

     
    I prefer to use Yorkmodels Acrylic Clear glazing sheets..... expensive but very easy to scribe, snap and shape. Affixed to the model with Glu`n Glaze.
     

     
    A final coat of satin varnish and more plasticard fabrication for the roller blinds fitted to the windows in the 1930`s.
     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    I have now fitted her with DCC Sound.
     
     
     

  20. ROSSPOP
    Earlier in the year I snapped up a few 7mm whitemetal wagon kits off ebay. They are from currently extinct Oldbury Models and fit into my ongoing MR/LMS modelling project.
     
    They are not state of the art by any means but I think can be made up into fairly satisfactory models.
     
    Although I am a follower of etch brass only for locomotive kits I quite like making whitemetal wagon kits.
     
     
     
     
     

     
    Obviously, the handrailing had to be fashioned from brass rod supplied with the kit. I preferred brass angle strip for the running board as the whitemetal ones supplied were the wrong profile and would be prone to damage.
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
    I`m pleased I snapped it up and it makes an unusual and not often modelled wagon.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
    In the paint shop having had a dose of Clostermans black etch primer......
     
     
     
    Then two thin coats of Humbrol black 85. There is very limited information and photos of how these wagons were painted. I based this one on the photos in Midland Wagons volume 1.
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

  21. ROSSPOP
    I think I should have rested longer before starting another kit, but I sold an old favourite model to pay for this one so I felt obliged.
     
    Anyhow, my Johnson 1P tank loco needed a mate so I chose a plain old shunter.
     
    Although this is an earlier kit from Slaters (1984) it was more challenging than the 1P (1985)
     
    The coupling rods are a steel etched fret and is more challenging to solder .
     

     
     
     
    But as ever I start with the coupling rods.
     

     
     
     
    And then the fold up chassis frames and hornguides.
     

     
     
     
    The result is an accurately aligned chassis. I learnt from the previous kit to chamfer the front face of the bearings to prevent the corners catching on the backs of the driving wheel spokes.
     

     
    Now the chassis wheelbase measures out to an accurate 7` 4`` x 7` 8`` However, I was aware when I had finished the coupling rods that they were 7` 5`` x 7` 8``
     
    So, ` did I fall or was I pushed` It might of been a wandering blunt drill bit when I initially drilled the coupling rod etch, or a discrepency with the etches accuracy.
     
     
     
    It was back to the workshop.
     

     
     
     
    where I used the old 1980`s trick of filing an oval hole to solve the very severe binding front rods.
     

     
     
     
    I`m not happy with the solution, but it seems to have solved the problem. I might, however, purchase replacement rods...........
     

     
     
     
    The superstructure has some novel idiosyncrasies..... the side tanks and bunker are assembled as seperate units which then bolt on to the footplate..... this should help with detailing the cab backplate later on.......
     

     
     
     

     
    There is, as before,a very thick and heavy boiler to work with but this time it didn`t need the soldering of smokebox to boiler. These were able to be made as seperate units and just telescoped together.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    There is some fettling required to get the boiler to fit between the tanks as the milled flats are too short and need to be filed further forward.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    As this loco is an open cab version I`ve treated her to a Laurie Griffin backplate set.......
     

     
    Most of the superstructure sheeting has been half etched to provide some of the angled beading ............. and as a result there has been some heat distortion when soldering on the top edge beading strips........ unusually this was the hardest part to do so far...........
     

     
     
     
    The biggest issue has been keeping everything square during soldering up.
     

     
    Not for a long time have I snapped a drill leaving the end firmly lodged in the smoke box. Unable to extract it I drilled a small crater around it , filled it with solder and levelled off.....then drilled another handrail knob hole..............
     
    don`t think you can see it................
     

     
    Again I fettled the whitemetal door and improved on the hinge detailing as I did with the 1P.
     
     
     

     
     
     
    mmmmhhhh! That dome ain`t right!! I replaced it with one from Hobbydevelpment range because I was`nt happy with the pitting on the one supplied with the kit, but on second thoughts this one is too big and the sides should be more upright and less slanty !!! so will be replaced with the one supplied as the shape is much more accurate.........
     

     
     
     
    Oh well upwards and onwards........
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     


     
     
     
     
     


     
     
     
     
     


  23. ROSSPOP
    As some of you know the platform and signal box are already completed..........
     

     
    This project will be based on an actual location, not I may add, down to the last jot as I intend to add an extra siding or two by adding a single slip point into the equasion to improve operating potential and possible extension at a much later date.........
     

     
    At the signal box end I needed to think about the crossing gates and a working distant signal that in reality was probably a tubular post at the time of this photo. But I have changed to a wooden post.
     
    Crossing gates are a typical GWR figuration from a Sevenscale kit now produced by Springside Models.....
     

     
    I`ve taken a chance and used the whitemetal posts as supplied to motorize using a servo motor on each gate.....
     

     
    I won`t connect the cranks up until in position on the diorama....... meanwhile they have been etched primed before spray painting in company colours which will be weathered when in place.....
     

     

     
     
    For the single signal which protected the crossing and was pulled on when the gates were closed to road traffic, I used an old 1960`s CCW kit with extra parts from Scale Signal Supplies and Colin Waite.....
     

     

     
    Again all etched primed....can`t stand paint coming off models......
     

     

    This will also be operated with a `bouncing` servo
  24. ROSSPOP

    The very beginning

    By ROSSPOP,

    Just like the prototype, this project began with converting Hornby`s SDJR No 45, later to become BR 40634. I utilised Hornby`s tender but used a comet basic chassis kit, however the tender never looked right to me, but at least I would`nt have to worry about the livery.
    I used a perseverence 2P loco chassis kit and a medium sized Mashima motor and a 38 to 1 Branchline gearbox. Wheels are Ultrascale. No 45 than sat in a cabinet long enough for me to change the time period from 1920`s to 1950`s so I could make use of the vast amount of RTR stock being produced by Bachmann and Hornby, rather than spending years on making all those etched SDJR coach kits I had accumulated and then having to paint them in full S&D blue livery.
     
     

     
     
    The perseverance chassis went together well, but I had to provide pickups on the front bogie. My favoured suspension has been Kean-Maygib sprung plastic hornblocks. I now use those supplied by Exactoscale
     
     

     
     
    I decided to refit No 45 with her original OO Hornby chassis and she went to the Ebay market as Hornby produced the BR version of her as 40634. She remained on the S&D until scrapped in 1962. I changed her handrails and added more where they had not been provided. I added Kean Maygib LMS sprung buffers and all lamp irons .
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    This time I opted for a more correct pattern tender from the Comet range, but I would have to paint and line her to match the loco body.
     
     
     

     
     
    I needed to fill the loco body with as much weight as I could muster as 4-4-0 wheel arrangements tend to be very light on their feet in model form. I used liquid lead, wrapped in a plasticard tube and fixed with superglue before fixing in the boiler . Lead strip was then cut and used to fill every nook and crannie I could find in the body as well as the chassis.
     
     

     
     
    Painted and lined using HMRS Presfix BR lining sheet.
     
     
     

     
     
    Nine years later......... All that weight added to the body prevented me fitting any kind if DCC chip. However having experimented in spray weathering using Humbrol enamels, I was able to place the Zimo MX648R and Sugar cube speaker in the tender. She now sits as BR 40634 on my workbench with Digitrains 2P soundfile on board.
  25. ROSSPOP
    I`ve virtually completed the superstructure and just have the front and rear steps to fit and the cab backplate to assemble.
     

     
    Before all that it is time to complete the chassis. I messed up with the coupling rod and ended up with a badly binding mechanism and this was solved by opening the front axle rod to an oval hole .
     

     
    So, before moving forward with it ,wheels and motor were set up to day for a thorough test of build so far...................
     

     
    The plan for this week is then fully detailing the chassis.......................................................
     
    So, chassis completed ( less brake blocks to enable wheels to come off for painting) and all that is left is to fit the dome valves and add a rear edge to the cab roof and then body and chassis are done.
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     


     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     


×
×
  • Create New...