bigal10

It's me again, with another question.... If one was to purchase a Replica Railways motorised chassis, and graft Charlie's 504 body kit onto that, what would one use as a chassis for the trailer unit, again using the second body from Charlie's 504 kit? Or... Would it be easier to buy a complete Bachmann 2EPB, and do what Peter has done above.? The Replica chassis has all the running gear below the window line, so would be more pleasing to the viewer, whereas the Bachmann, in common with a couple of their DMU's i have, has a massive black lump at the motor / Decoder end. Decisions, decisions..... Regards, Alan.

Does anyone know what soundfile Peter used on the Class 504, in his excellent 'Sparking Clogs' video on UTube? I assume that he used LokSound 4, so possibly the sounds were from Charlie / Legoman, but would it have been a standard EMU of the period? On the basis that the 504's haven't actually run since 1992, (except into a shed at ELR) would there have been any sounds specific to the Bury lines, / 504? Regards, Alan.

Put me down for one in GMPTE orange, just like the knackered Hornby one I've had for 25+ years. Only, this time one that actually runs with Charlie's lovely all-wheel drive and pickups! Hopefully Charlie, yours will have loads of room for decoder and an EM-summat-or-other? Cheers, Alan.

Hi Peter, As you can see from my location, I live in Bury, and I regularly cycle and walk the route of the old railway line from Greenmount to Bury, including the viaduct over the fishing lodges. I have just revisited this blog as I was looking for something similar to model, like the Class 504, but on the basis that, a) Charlie Petty has stopped making the 504 kit, and, more importantly, b) I was just blown away by your finished model, running with flashing LED for the sparking pickup shoe, I think I’ll just quietly put away my modelling tools and try airbrushing some track, or something! Just a point, and I always think about this when cycling or walking the modified ‘lines’ as the route is known round here, do you think anyone ever got a massive 1200volt shock from the 3rd rail? I can’t imagine some small inquisitive fingers haven’t had a feel under the wooden cover? And another point, a very small one, so please don’t take offence, the video of the units in motion, with the sparking pickup shoe, looks a bit odd without a 3rd rail. I know the video was shot on a guest layout, but did you ever build a section of track with the pickup rail? Brilliant job! Regards, Alan.

Richard, Brilliant demo, the best bit being that the same sound theme is running all the way through! So it does really show the best and worst of all the speakers! It was just like being at an exhibition with Charlie, Legomanbiffo, Steve, Locoman, et al! Keep up the good work! Regards, Alan.

Cath, Oops, and sorry to Charlie, I should have mentioned DCKits as a brilliant supplier also, but they don't have a 'shop' per se. But if you go to almost any exhibition in the UK, just stand for a moment and listen, and you'll find out where Charlie's stand is, he's the noisiest ! And so are his trains ! Regards, Alan.

Hi ‘parkicat’ A few suggestions I would make, Try and visit a railway model shop or two, especially those that do DCC sound. Shops like Digitrains in Lincoln, and DCC supplies in rural Worcestershire (I think !) I have no connections with either, just that they put me on the right path, 10 years ago when I started with DCC sound. Also, go to one or two railway model exhibitions, and just wander around and ask the exhibitors some questions. Another thing, you don’t say where you are in the world, it helps a bit for people trying to make suggestions. And it also helps if we know your name! Regards, Alan.

Brilliant thread, pat on the back to Dave for setting up the comparison board. Just a point, remember they ALL sound different again once placed inside a loco! Cheers, Alan.

Ah, the joys of predictive text! For “Caption Tape” , read “Kapton Tape”. I’m sure everyone knew that, just being my usual pedantic self, Cheers, Alan.

Hi Mic, I think you’ll find that Jeremy’s quoted price for ANY Zimo decoder, always includes a soundfile of your choice, from their vast selection. I can report that the Dapol 08 in 0 gauge with Paul’s masterly work is just awesome! I was in Digitrains’ shop a while ago, having a chat and some tweaking by said God of sounds, Mr Chetter, and of course he was delighting all and sundry with an impromptu demo of the Dapol. Just a pity I only do 00 gauge, but hey, all of mine (27 at the last count!) are Zimo equipped and I am a proud to say Jeremy and Paul are top of my list for help and advice, and long may it continue. Regards, Alan.

Cheers, Gordon. That did the trick! The only sound that got lost was the change direction on CV575 (?). Quickly solved by making it value 44 (door slam, - I think ) I need to check my entire stable now, Thanks, Alan.

Cheers, Keith. I must have used them before, but last night, it just binned about 10 minutes’ worth of typing! The saga continues, Spoke to Jeremy at Digitrains a couple of hours ago, and he suggested that some locos won’t move with the brakes on, so have a look at handbrake settings. Done that, and still no movement with F1 sound on. Checked my other 2 steam locos, and my 4MT tender, which has the latest soundfile, (up-brakes/down-whistle) and it works fine. My 3MT tank has not got the up/down soundfile, (yet ! ) and that works fine. I need to check all my fleet of Diesels next... I’m flummoxed now... Any further suggestions? Regards, Alan.

I've added more words to the original, sorry, forgot that emojis don't work on here, Please read, and feel free to borrock me if needed! Alan.

Has anyone else had this happen? I’ve been away from the layout for a few months, - that’s one of the downsides of being retired, too many holidays!! So, yesterday, I downloaded ESU’s firmware update 4.2.3, for ECoS, onto my 50200. Then, the first loco I ran was my new favourite, DJM J94 0-4-0 tank, with a Zimo MX649n, with Pauliebanger’s/Digitrains’ excellent ‘Whimberry Whistle’ sound scheme. Following last December’s ECoS update of 4.2.2, the up-and-down throttle lever allowing Brakes/Whistle in one swift movement has been a joy for me! What happens now, with 4.2.3, is that with F1 sound on, the loco will not move, in either direction, when using the rotary throttle ! After a little testing, it seems that turning F1 sound off, allows the loco to move off, using the rotary throttle. You can then turn F1 sound back on and the loco continues with motion and sounds, until it comes to a stop. Change direction, turn rotary throttle, and NO MOVEMENT! I have not run either of my 2 other kettles, but have tried 2 of my similarly Zimo kitted Diesels, and all is well, F1 sound on, move away on throttle, slow on throttle, brake to stop, change direction, move off, slow, stop, etc., all with sound and motion! Can anyone shed any light on what’s going on? Sorry for yesterday’s cock-up, forgot that this site doesn’t like emojis! Alan.

BRM were true to their word, and it arrived today, 2 days after the 1st magazine. It is the Kelly and Son Paper Mill one in green, so I assume it’s basically the same as the Caledonian in blue? I’m not that well up on ‘kettles’, more of a diesel person, so any suggestions as to the nearest sounds available? Thanks to 34C for the advice re: hardwiring etc, it seems to concur with Hornby’s own blog on their website. Odd to think of Hornby telling folks to snip off all the resistors etc, but that’s always my first job! Thanks in advance, Alan

When my ‘Free Gift with BRM’ finally arrives, can anyone advise if it is possible to squeeze a decoder and a speaker inside this diminutive steam loco? Mostly I favour Zimo decoders, so has any done this surgery, and which sound should I be looking for? Regards, Alan.

Cheers Nigel, Got that now, Ta.

Thanks Nigel, I'm sure I must have asked you (and others) this before, but.... Where on the Zimo website do you read the 'Version Descriptions' ? Alan.

Here we go, again ! Zimo have a new decoder firmware update as of 7th February 2018 Does anyone know what is new / changed? Regards, Alan.

And, for anyone who is a Zimo decoder user, especially with Pauliebanger's excellent braking feature, you can now have Brake / Horn (or whatever takes your fancy) on the joystick up / down. Marvellous !!! Regards, Alan.

Hi Keith, and anyone else who might have had a similar problem! I have just resolved the issue, with a great deal of assistance from “ ‘er indoors” Her suggestion was, “why don’t you try reconnecting the British Gas Hive network box BACK to the Netgear switch, rather than the BT router” And surprise, surprise, all is now working perfectly! I had now better tell Mike Sutherland, that the problem was all my own doing, and that TouchCab works perfectly, as does VNC viewer. Shame about the loss of iPad Cam, but I can live without it, (for a while!) Regards, Alan.

Hi Folks, I'm having a few issues with WiFi connections to my ECoS. History: The ECoS has been in place in my loft for about 5 years or so, with ethernet cable to a Netgear Powerline 500 close by, and has worked perfectly up to now! The mains in the loft were installed by me, from a separate connection on my main switch box. My PC is one floor down, and connects either wirelessly, or by ethernet to a similar Netgear Powerline 500, on the same ring-main as the lounge, one floor down. (Yes, this is odd, the ring-mains in my house are one at front of the house, and another for the rear, as installed by the original builder 30 years ago! My BT infinity router is in the lounge, on the ground floor, and is connected to the Netgear Powerline 'transmitter' on the (front) ring-main. I recently changed my iPad mini for a brand spanking new iPad, which now runs iOS 11.2.1, and I recently updated my iPhone 7 to the same OS, 11.2.1 And now, I find nothing will communicate with my ECoS, other than my PC, which is fine when put in the IP address as found by ECoS in it's settings tab. The 3 apps that i really need for building my layout (when does that ever end?) now do not work, 1) TouchCab - I've had a few email discussions with Mike Sutherland, and he seems perplexed, and has gone oddly silent. 2) VNC viewer - an absolute must for tweaking CV's for servos, or anything else, Turntable, etc., 5 meters away from the ECoS. 3) Cam for iPad - Apple App Store tells me that the "Developer needs to modify this App to work under iOS 11" Again, another must for seeing the results of what you are twiddling, and what's happening above the layout, when you are upside down in the crawl-space underneath ! Also, I recently had an issue with my British Gas Hive system, which meant that I had to swap some of the ethernet cable locations on my BT router / Netgear switch, but everything else is running OK. Is it me? Or has iOS 11 completely ruined everything? Whilst I DO fancy an ESU Mobile Contol 2, I don't fancy the £300 outlay! Can anyone shine any light on my problems? Thanks in advance, Regards, Alan. Confused, of Bury.

Hi Phil, If you want really thin wire, have you tried single strand insulated wire? You can get it from Maplins, but if memory serves, not thin enough, I’ve got mine from Direct Train Spares in Burnley, he sells it either short lengths or full reels. The reels are dirt cheap, by comparison to “decoder” wire. It’s what motor manufacturers use for motor rewinds, and is much tougher than you might think, I think it is insulated in glass, and won’t break or scratch, - until you want it to! I use it for wiring LEDs inside locos, (why do Heljan still install very dim bulbs?) it’s vey flexible, but stays put in the shape you want. I strip off the insulation at the ends with a scalpel before soldering, but the guy from Burnley reckons you don’t even need to do that, the glass insulation will melt away with a touch of 300 degree iron tip! Regards, Alan.

Hi Folks, And a Happy New Year to all !! Does anyone know if there are any Really Useful changes to the operations of my Zimo Sound Decoders included in the Firmware Update of 22nd December 2017? (And also, to the operation of my shiny new MX821V servo decoder?) Regards, Alan.

Hi Folks, Father Christmas was very kind this year, and left for me a Zimo MX 821V ! Hooray As Shropshire Lad said, very easy to set up for servos, and with enough CV settings to satisfy any techno geek (The Zimo manual, as ever, seems to over-complicate things, but the initial setup actually was identical to ESU’s for their SwitchPilotServo, I realised after an hour of head-scratching) So, a couple of days later, and I’m still scratching my head with regard to lighting control. What I want to end up with is a pair of (my version of) Ground Signals, with a green light, and a red light, to indicate which road is set, for each turnout. Plus a constant white, to look like the real thing. (Green for set, Red for not set). So I want 8 switched greens, and 8 switched reds, plus 16 constant whites. I will be building the ground signals from plasticard, and using SMD LED’s and probably SMD Resistors. Can anyone point me in the direction of how to set the light outputs to react with the servo movement. I understand that there is a constant positive on the 20 pin socket, which will require separate resistors for each LED, but I’m struggling with how to associate the other pins to each servo. A late Merry Christmas to all, and a Happy New. Cheers, Alan.