Mookie

On 02/02/2019 at 06:04, jwealleans said:

You don't say what era you model so it's difficult to give specific paint advice except that where possible I use Halfords aerosols as they're larger and better quality than the specialist paint suppliers.  The BR containers here are BMW Zinnobar Red.  Somewhere in the depths of RMWeb there is a thread on car equivalents for railway colours.  The RAF Lossiemouth club also used to publish a list on their web page.

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On 24/01/2019 at 16:45, Izzy said:

Hi Mookie,

 

I have made one of these. Not brilliant, but okay.

 

The BR conflat A's were both 4 and 8 shoe (clasp) fitted. The bits in the kit allow for 4 shoe, but you have to remember that the brake gear will be 'handed' the same on both sides, a mirror image rather than opposite. That is why the extra mouldings are useful as you thus need two the same, each moulding having opposite ones for independent side brakes, so one of each. However they must also match the way the vaccum cylinder operates, (it's central rod will be pulled upwards). Additionally one brake lever must operate in reverse to the other side. This does often confuse me, so I always try and work it out from the central rod through the V hangers, which way it turns after adding the vaccum cylinder, and go from there. You need to find/make extra bits to make it up properly, (I use some straight brass wire and plasticard), but it is worth the effort.

 

Bear with me and I will try and take a couple of shots of mine later to illustrate when I finish what I am doing at present.

 

Izzy

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On 24/01/2019 at 08:28, Fat Controller said:

And to echo a previous response- keep the left-overs. They come in handy when scratch-building or kit-bashing, or even when repairing damaged vehicles. I'm intrigued to know what parts are duplicated in this model.

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On 23/01/2019 at 22:18, Fat Controller said:

Are you building the 4mm scale or the 7mm scale one?

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On 18/10/2018 at 23:34, Nigelcliffe said:

Might be the capacitors, but a runaway is usually down to something corrupting the DCC signal to the track.  Could be the system in use, the quality of wiring, or any number of things.

 

The first way around it is to turn-off DC running in CV29.  Then the decoder won't respond to what it thinks might be a DC signal (power) and absence of DCC. 

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On 14/10/2018 at 18:58, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Not necessarily, there are several potential causes of what mainfests as a wheel wobble, and some (wheel centre eccentric to axle centre, coupling rod length incorrect, bent crankpin, bearing slack, deformation of tyre or rail face of flange) are independent of gauging as estimated by back to back.

 

If on the other hand you can see with the wheelset out of the mechanism that a wheel face is not perpendicular to the axle, then the gauge may help you achieve a better setting. But most modern RTR wheelsets are not too good being adjusted, as the wheelseat is often left permanently weakened by the movement. Your next option is a spare wheelset from Bachmann service. (Assuming there that the model is already out of warranty: if not, hotfoot to retailer...)

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On 03/09/2018 at 10:48, Mancunian said:

As long as all the moving parts are lubricated/greased correctly then just run the loco'...it should become quieter.    Bachmann, in comparison to Hornby, do tend to need more running-in.   Have you checked the back to back and/or do the wheels look buckled/wobbly..??    I have had some models which have required as much as fifteen hours running and that includes some recent Hornby!    If you suspect the wheels then you will probably notice a zagga-zagga-zagga-zagga sound which increases as you increase the speed and decreases as you slow it down.    Make sure there is sufficient tension in the pick-ups...floppy pick-ups are neither use nor ornament!!  

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On 01/10/2018 at 07:51, GoingUnderground said:

As you apparently have the original packaging, you will have the make and model numbers, which you haven't given us as that's relevant. It would be better if you used that information yourself to look up the specs of the decoders on their maker's website if it's not in the original packaging. If it's in german then find out the german words for power and current and look for numbers in the text followed by the abreviation mA for milliamps.

 

But the 8 pin ones should be fine as the 8 pin interfsce is frequently used in DCC Ready OO and H0 models. The 6 pin ones look to be smaller and might be lower current versions intended for use in TT and N gauge models where space is at a premium. You should use those in smaller 4mm models where the motor is likely to have a lower current draw. But they may just be the same as the rest but fitted with the 6 pin plug. That's why you need to find out their details for yourself.

 

Just one other point. There are other digital systems around, specifically Maerklin's MM and mfx systems, and german Trix used to have their own called Selectrix. Maerklin is much more common in the rest of Europe, and even if you got the decoders from someone in the UK, they might just hsve been using one of these other systems. So it is remotely possible that they might be intended for one of those systems and not be suitable for DCC. This is unlikely as Maerklin use the 21MTC interface, but worth bearing in mind. Another reason why you need to do the research yourself.

 

However, if you haven't got the decoders yet, which might be the case judging by the photo, as they're being auctioned/offered for sale on the internet, then ask the seller to give you the make and model numbers or the current handling for each decoder before you bid/buy.

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Just mind how many Railway Modellers you put up there.....

 

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2073768/Essex-pensioner-Richard-Phillips-spends-11-HOURS-pinned-bed-ceiling-collapsed.html

That's a lot of magazines.

On 20/01/2018 at 17:53, 46256 said:

 

On 17/01/2018 at 23:07, Mookie said:

Hello 46256, 

 

just like to say what a great layout. I'm glad I found this blog, as Water Orton was one of my local stations. Marston Green being the other. I've just started out in building a 3 metre fold-up layout and planning to build a road bridge, similar to the station's bridge. Sorry to be cheeky, but please could you tell me the depth of your bridge? The measurement from pavement, road, to the other pavement. I looked on Google maps at street level to give me a idea of road width, but I'm concern my measurement is a little too deep.

 

Kind regards,

 good afternoon, just remembered my promise to measure my model bridge. II is 116 mm wide from parapet to parapet...the pavements are 18mm wide...the road way is therefore 80 mm wide. I make no claim as to the accuracy when compared to the real thing...I think I decided on these measurements based on my experience as a young Police Constable in the mid seventies.in those days every lroad accident had to be investigated. This meant measuring carriageways, pavements, locations of vehicles against fixed points such as lampposts. If these couldn't be done at the time, it often meant returning to the scene...usually about six thirty am on early shift before the morning rush hour. Two of you would be armed with measuring tape and accident report. These reports did little to further road safety when human error was often the cause ( I stress without aggravating features) and were only of real use to insurance companies who would subsequently obtain the report for a fraction of the true cost.....sorry but memories of many cold wet mornings suddenly came flooding back. I hope this assists best wishes brian

Mookie

 

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What I like about the 8F livery.

Just purchased the LMS 8035 version, as I wanted one with the Stainer tender.

Planning to convert it to a late BR Livery. No much work, just a change of transfers (and a bit of research).

On 14/05/2017 at 12:23, Skinnylinny said:

Not all single-sided braked wagons had levers and V hangers on both sides! I'm modelling the pre-grouping period and have come across some wagons with only one lever and one brake shoe! In the earlier days of railways, it was not uncommon for a shunter to have to cross the tracks to reach the brake lever of a wagon that was only fitted with brakes on one side. 

 

The requirement for wagons to have a brake lever on either side, with both levers pointing to the right was not enacted until 1911, with a grace period allowing railways to continue running old stock with only one brake lever until 1938! With the intervention of WWII meaning wagon maintenance became less important, some wagons made it until the 1950s still with only one brake lever.

 

The chassis modelled is a wooden solebar chassis, and it looks as though there has been no provision for a V hanger on one side, so Dapol have removed the brake gear from their generic middle section of the chassis to match. The V hangers make me think the chassis is based on an RCH 1927 design - earlier designs were straight V shaped, rather than having the bends to become vertical at the top.

 

In short, this can be used to represent a wagon from 1927 up to probably the 1940s (with some examples lasting a bit longer).

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