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warren haywood

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Posts posted by warren haywood

  1. Hi Warren,

     

    Are you able to confirm what the paint mix colour code was please - your supplier will have needed to have determined this to mix it?

     

    As I suspect you are aware,there are various possible systems that they might have used; they might have either "RAL" in front of a number, "BS" in front of a number, simply a number or (and this is most likely) a mix of numbers and letters.  

     

    I have reached the conclusion that Precision's crimson lake has darkened and have thus decided to procure my own and I also prefer cellulose paint so can get it in this format as a result.  My problem is getting a match although red in reality is not a particularly colourfast colour, so it will have changed over time on the prototype.

     

     

    Mark, unfortunately there is nothing in the RAL or British standard range that comes close to what is perceived as Midland/LMS red.

    You will need to take a swatch of your own colour to specialist car paint shop (not Halfords;-). They will have swatches of maroons and reds where you should be able to find one that’s close. A good paint mixer will be able to do this by sight although he may have a little gadget that can break down the colours used.

    I can’t give you a code as Ian Rathbone got mine for me as we have a customer who collects LMS vehicles and uses both of us to paint them and therefore we had to maintain continuity.

    I’ve recently bought some Precission gloss enamel for lining and touching in and don’t see that it’s gone dark although I can’t comment on the dull version if that’s what you use.

    Cheers Warren

     

     

     

     

    Mark

  2. Fantastic work as usual.

     

    Could I ask what you used for the body colour for the NBR Intermediate?

     

    I really like the GC locos as well. My great uncle was the regular driver of Butler Henderson when it was allocated to  Mexborough shed during WW2.

    It’s basically a 50/50 mix of deep bronze green and GWR chocolate brown. These two colours mixed together were identical to swatch li borrowed from Paul Moore which came via the NBR society.

  3. I can answer that, the loco was supplied for painting without wheels or rods. The cylinders are on so these were painted gloss black and the rest of the chasis a dirty dark grey brown. The valve gear was on and as this model is the be weathered I didn't bother with masking or scraping so they are in the same dirty colour as the rest of the chasis.

    Once Martyn has worked his magic they will look like dirty oily rods

    • Like 4
  4. Hi Simon,

    Anything that needs lining should always be painted gloss whatever the scale.

    This can then be taken down with the varnish. For varnishing over enamel I have tried lots of methods but if you are going to use a polyeurathane varnish by far the best is Ronseal hardglaze (gloss) with Phoenix precision matting agent added. By varying the amounts of the matting agent the glossiness or flatness can be adjusted to your own preference. The problem with Matt and satin varnish as bought is that it's quite inconsistent and also has quite a grainy texture.

    Another excellent method, which I now use exclusively is to use a gloss cellulose lacquer. This works over enamel but the mix must be sprayed at quite a high pressure with just a waft of lacquer coming out of the airbrush. Practice is he key but the final finish far exceeds any varnished model.

    Hope this helps

    Warren

  5. Unfortunately I didn't take any of it, just another BR lined green one and I have loads of pictures of that livery. I will email the owner and see if he can take a couple of shots.

     

    Martyn, if you think that anything on the model will Make the painting easier than leave it off or make it removable, springs infront of splashers and rear pipe stands at back of tender are the most obvious ones.

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