Dominion

Hi Pete, probably yes for one type and maybe no for the other.

Let me clarify.

There are two very different types of drive for Dapol signals in 4mm.

The single signals have a small motor and screw type drive inside.

The junction and bracket signals are servo operated. They are the ones with a  large black box below baseboard level.

I have found the single signals worked quite happily on 6volts DC, with none of the burn out issue that people found earlier with the much higher voltages in the original Dapol instructions, since changed.

I suspect 5 VDC would also work with them.

There is an added advantage in that it makes the LED's dimmer.

The junction and bracket signals with a servo will also operate on lower voltage than the instructions if you want, but perhaps not as low as 5.

I agree with Brossard that they work well on the 9V output from the train tech unit designed for them.

However I tried adding some resistors of different values in line with the supply hoping they would still operate fine, but dim the LEDS like the single signals did.

However quite low resistance values prevented the servos from operating when trying to drop the 9V train tech voltage. I didn't measure it unfortunately but that is what makes me say maybe no at only 5 volts.

If a junction signal does work for you on 5 volts I would love to know.

Good luck.

Tom

I have recently removed some on my new Thompson coaches and in those the contact “prongs” are not attached to anything inside the coach body at source.

Great, glad it worked for you John.
 

The way I have mine wired still has the yellow brown orange wires also connected to the appropriate train tech outputs. It has been quite happy like that for 6 months. I can use the DCC command to operate them as the train tech unit is designed to do, but also use the momentary lever to operate them. 
They are functioning as 2 momentary switches in parallel, one DCC controlled, the other manual. If I am just watching the trains go round one sensor clears the signal in advance and another sensor sets it to danger the train passes. But if I feel like it I can operate the signal with a lever. 

Hi John, I have had that quandary with the same equipment you list. The only difference being that I am in 4mm scale but the Dapol junction signals are Servi operated and the below baseboard parts look just like your O signal.

I first wired them up without DCC just using DC power and the S lever momentary contacts worked fine to trigger the signals. My memory says that they bounces just fine and I think that is a function of the Dapol servo signal, though I can’t be certain from memory.

I then switched to the train tech sensors to operate them as I wanted to build in a little automation from track sensors, either train tech’s optical sensor or occupancy detectors depending (for different lines).

I use an NCE mini panel to recieve the occupancy sensor input and trigger the appropriate DCC accessory command to work the train tech unit. And you could use a simple push button or S lever to trigger that mini panel input too. However that is a lot of electronics if you don’t have other uses for the 15 pairs of mini panel inputs. 
 

For your application it turns out I THINK that you can still just use the momentary S lever outputs directly between the yellow and brown or yellow and orange Dapol wires to operate the movement. It is a while ago that I wired it up, and I THINK that’s what I did. If you want to try it let me know and I will investigate my wiring before you do it just make sure. That method is just using the TrainTech module as a power source for the signal, and not actually the DCC command part of the electronics. 
Tom

For these early Bachmann nem pockets that are mounted too high there is a kluge you can do, till you decide on something more permanent perhaps. This won’t work for automatic uncoupling but it should work for coupling. 

Remove the nem pocket from the mounting block on the wagon chassis and simply turn it over. Put the kadee in with its magnetic drop pin facing the same way as the tapered side of the pocket fish tale.

Then push the flat side of the socket fish tale into the chassis socket, but don’t push it all the way home. 
That fish tail on the mounting block is a little delicate so I tend to use a finger mail on tapered solid block of the tail itself to avoid too much pressure on the thin flexible section. 
There should be enough friction that the pocket will stay at the height you push it to for a long time. The kadee will still sit too high probably but there will be enough height overlap for the coupling phase to work. 
Hope this works for you.
Tom

Thanks for showing that. That looks good. Do you see any reason it wouldn’t work for bullhead rail instead of flat bottomed, and would you think it would need any design tweaks for bullhead ? I guess the aluminium rod sits in the web of the rail, and so the diameter of the rod is important and needs to be right to sit in the web and create a 1mm flange way gap. Do I understand correctly ?

That looks like it could be the nice simple metal draw bar held by a shouldered screw at each end, like their previous detailed B17 models. I like those as it is relatively easy to make a shorter replacement. 

Thanks (Please ignore - mistake)

I went to the show this morning. It seemed well attended. There were lots of layouts running and traders displaying their items.

There were also some interesting demonstration stands.

I particularly enjoyed talking with the team on the Rapido UK stand.

Thank you to the Platelayers for organizing the show again and to all the exhibitors and stall owners for setting it all up.

Tom

Andy, Mohan and Mark had lots of production models, decorated samples, and EPs on display. 

Well worth a visit if you are in range.
I will definitely keep the preorders I already have in place and may have to add 1 or 2 !

The rest of the show was good too. Thank you to the Platelayers for organizing it again.

Tom

Excellent, also hope to see you at the show.

Don’t let Jason talk you into sending any spare money back to Canada to buy buses !

Tom

The Oxford Rail LNER cattle wagon is dimensionally correct, and looks right on either side, just not both sides at the same time (which is very hard to see). One side should be a mirror image of the other. I changed one van to have a mirrored side but left the rest as they look fine which ever way you put them on the track ! 
 

Having designed much of the long wheelbase LNER fish van I hope Rapido will tool one in the next release … pretty please with a cherry on top ???

I have had 5 Tam Valley hex frog boards in use for several years. They are all still working fine luckily. 

I hope you can figure out what caused your issue. 

I did not get them from coastal DCC as I am in Canada so could get them closer but I have sourced lots of other things from them and I find Kevin to be very knowledgable and very helpful. 

Sorry Martin, Templot is a wonderful resource. 

Tom

Big locos certainly look good and run well through the Finetrax 1:7 slips. I believe in Templot t for a double slip the blade tips start one further timber towards the centre to allow space and clearance for soldering to the tie bar arrangement and for flange clearance. Single slips could be one timber closer to the V crossings, and that maybe the default for a single in Templot. Wayne’s singles use the same spacing as the doubles. Initially I was wondering if it was worth extending the blades on the singles somehow, but the only solution would have been to do a lot of butchery or start from scratch and Wayne’s just are too good for that :-)

Mmm, you have me wondering now. Like many things on the layout I did it so long ago I am struggling to remember the specifics of why I did something a certain way. I agree you certainly need to protect DC locos from DCC power. Also I did not want any stationary stock to accidentally be able to bridge the two power sources, as I do sometimes run a DC loco on its loop while the rest of the layout is DCC powered and operating. 
But I agree you can set CV29 in the decoders to not respond to DC, which I routinely do when I first configure them. 
I am now definitely scratching my head as to why I have been removing the DCC locos from that loop and why I thought it was best to separate the storage loops from the DC switchable running lines  where I could. Perhaps it has just become an old habit !

Paul are you saying some old decoders were not happy on DC ? I do have some locos I fitted a very long time ago so perhaps that was the issue. 

I notice you mentioned earlier you planned to have the ability to run DC for Mark’s unchipped locos.

I do that too. I would suggest making it one loop only and not even the associated storage loops. Otherwise it means all the DCC locos on sections that might become DC should be removed and it becomes a bit of a faff if you have lots of locos in loops. 

In turn that would mean adding insulation gaps at the end of the stock rails of turnouts in fans that might otherwise bridge the DC switchable and DCC permanent loops. I mention this as in normal DC or DCC wiring you would not have to insulate outer rails of fans, and I missed it when first laying my storage loops. It may be too late as it looks like you have laid several of those turnouts already but may still be easier to do sooner rather than later. 

Having the switchable loop is also very useful for running-in locos before fitting a decoder. 
Tom

Photos of coal trains in the grouping period are a glorious mix of different sizes of wagons. I have many Bachmann and Oxford Rail RCH 1923 wagons and I am grateful that they have made several appropriate livery and operator names for my area, but the trains look too uniform.

I am delighted Rapido have made these earlier wagons and look forward to any more colliery and factor wagon liveries they may do in the future. I am supporting the project by buying as many names in the current releases as I can justify running on my lines :-) 

The Notts & Derby Pinxton wagon is a joint commission I think between TTC Diecast and Malcs models.

The Malc's website shows it as being sold out already but perhaps TTC Diecast have some left.

https://www.ttcdiecast.com/rapido---notts--derby-7-plank-wagon---ttcdiecast-x-malcs-models-exclusive-oo-gauge-172694-p.asp

Tom

I just paid for 4 special commission wagons from Malc's models, and they will be on their way to Canada tomorrow.

The photos of the actual products on their website look really excellent.

https://malcsmodels.co.uk/collections/rapido-wagons

That link should show all 5 they have done. Here is one example.

Malc's has commissioned some very useful colliery wagons in the mix.

I hope they do well for them and I am very excited to receive mine.

Tom

I just did a 2600km drive, twice. I spread it over 3 days of daylight both times. The most I did in one day was 1100km. Easier headed west than east as in one direction I was picking up an hour of daylight each day but going home I lost an hour of daylight each day. 

Hornby produced Rosamond. The real Pullman car was Rosamund. 

I use a volt-meter to test if there is any connection between any of the 8 sockets and its neighbours on all Hornby 8 pin locos now. With the blanking plug out of course. All 8 should be isolated from each other. When I have found a fault it has been a small solder bridge on the underside of the socket. Fixed with a knife or triangular file. 
Good luck with your loco. It is a nice model once you get this issue fixed. Tom

If you have power feeds to both rails on both tracks the cross over should work with 2 insulated joiners. Is that what you have ?

If you want the loops independently powered then use insulated joiners between the 2 turnouts.

If you want then to be on different power zones then use 2. If you want them on the same power zone but just independently switchable you could use one depending on your track plan.

The short frog rails beyond the unifrog get their power from link wires on the underside of the Peco turnout from the stock rails.

Just to be sure, by crossover you do mean 2 turnouts heal to heal, and not a diamond crossing don't you ?