Rannoch Moor

Have started on the (quite fiddly but hopefully fun) motion bracket this morning. So far so good... Forgot to mention yesterday that AFTER you have used the front tongue that extends forward from the front spacer, seen here: to set up the front cylinder plate accurately, you will need to file it off and ensure that the underside of the new cylinder spacer is perfectly clear of solder etc if the new unit is to sit correctly and neatly. Gus

Haven't got quite that far in my thinking yet Tony, but I will do my best! The slidebars are pretty solid so initial thoughts may be to not actually secure the ends to the bracket - or alternatively to secure them to the bracket but not solder the bracket to the frames... Gus

Decided to follow my instincts and make the cylinders removable using the plan above (time stuck in traffic not entirely wasted!), namely to slot the rear cylinder face plate in place make a new spacer (out of the P4 frame cylinder spacer) and secure the front plate in place on the new spacer. The parts laid out below should hopefully make the scheme clear... The rear plate and spacer are in the first pic. The middle photo above shows the cylinder spacer laid over the top of the EM equivalent that is in place between the frames. Note that in the third one down the rear cylinder face plate has not quite been pushed vertically down into its slot but hopefully you should get the idea. I soldered a 12BA nut over the hole in the plate that will hold the unit onto the chassis and also served to hold the plate firmly in place whilst the back plate was soldered in pace. The next job was to very carefully file back the frames and EM spacer so that the top of the front plate could be soldered to the cylinder spacer. It is essential to ensure that the relationship between the front and rear face plates remains constant, square and paralle and as it would have been if you had stayed with George Norton's original design. Although they will end up slightly closer together use of the wrapper will ensure this is not noticable - it also helps keep them parallel as it happens. Eventually I could (very quickly to avoid securing the shebang to the chassis!) solder the front plate on nice and square... You can see below why a. the relationship is important, b. the low clearances in relation to the footplate, and c. why making the cyliders removeable might be a good idea...

Thanks Alan - sounds interesting but my instinct is to keep things simple - adjusting the axle holes seems a high risk strategy, especially on a rigid chassis so I will more than likely stick with either removeable cylinders or taking them in place, Cheers Gus

Thanks Tony - it is great that my thoughts are mirroring yours (were these your coaches, 9F etc I read about in the early BRMs? If so,thanks, as your articles were some of my favourite inspiration!). I am away from the bench as usual during the week but it often ptovides useful thinking time! I have already tack soldered the rear cylinder face in place pending final decision. My current thoughts are to place the front facing in place, solder the 00 spacer in place to its rear so that it sits neatly over the EM spacer (and securing hole) that is in place between the frames, remove the rear plate and clean off the tack, replace and solder the rear plate to the 00 spacer (if that makes sense!). If not, then I have the fall back of just securing in place as you suggest - I rather fancy that at current pogress on my layout (Kilbrannan Ferry - qv) mileage exams are not likely to be a high priority! Gus

Thanks Tony. As it happens, the reference to Comet cylinders is the spacing device included on their jig, but having yet to commit to the cylinders (ie the steam ones!) I am weighing up the pros and cons of building as an 0-6-0 as you suggest and painting prior to attaching cylinders and valve gear, or making the cyliders as a bolt on arrangement. Given the close relationship between body and cylinders, I am tending (in a cowardly way!) towards the former but instinctively prefer the latter! Gus

Despite sore thumbs, got the axle holes reamed out, the bearings fitted (use short ones for the rear driven axle otherwise the gearbox may not fit!) and the frames erected. I used my Comet jig and a sheet of glass to make sure all was square and parallel. I would, however, next time not fit the bearings until afterwards as otherwise you jam the jig cylindrical blocks in! I got round this by fixing in one chassis separator to both sides (securely at the rear), easing the frames apart to drop the jig out, inserting standard jig axles, dropping the Comet cylinders between the frames clear of the axles and carefully clamping the shebang together before soldering in the front spacer. Key is to check and check again for squareness etc, and ensure the jig axles are a close but sliding fit - ie they slide out when the chassis is tilted to one side. It is so much easier to make a beam compensated chassis, but inserting the wheels proved all was well on the glass with no sign of rocking in any plane and te frames rolling smoothly with a hard blow (although lubrication will improve things further. Phew! Despite sore thumbs, got the axle holes reamed out, the bearings fitted (use short ones for the rear driven axle otherwise the gearbox may not fit!) and the frames erected. I used my Comet jig and a sheet of glass to make sure all was square and parallel. I would, however, next time not fit the bearings until afterwards as otherwise you jam the jig cylindrical blocks in! I got round this by fixing in one chassis separator to both sides (securely at the rear), easing the frames apart to drop the jig out, inserting standard jig axles, dropping the Comet cylinders between the frames clear of the axles and carefully clamping the shebang together before soldering in the front spacer. Key is to check and check again for squareness etc, and ensure the jig axles are a close but sliding fit - ie they slide out when the chassis is tilted to one side. It is so much easier to make a beam compensated chassis, but inserting the wheels proved all was well on the glass with no sign of rocking in any plane and te frames rolling smoothly with a hard blow (although lubrication will improve things further. Phew!

The front footplate plating was finished this afternoon - slightly out od kilter but the partsfitted immaculately, testament to the accurate engineering of this kit. The exception to this is the aforementioned chassis/rod discrepancy. My start on the chassis proved this - the rear coupling rod appears to be about 0.5-0.7mm too long. The centres of the chassis match up to both the drawing the drawings and published wheel-base data (more importantly, I suppose, from an engineering point of view!) so I will shorten the rods to suit since I am building this loco rigid given the clearance issues and the fact i haven't got around to sorting out some Bill Bedford springy beams. Having said this, the axle holes need some finger blistering opening out to take the bearings so it might be worth a pause....

Looking great Mark and good luck with the problem solving! Sorry to miss you last week - you were busy recruiting into the Society whenever I passed and I had to get back reasonably early. I have this marked though so I can crib your good ideas when my time comes. Back to Loch Treig (via the domestic chores!) and maybe a bit more work on the loco yard in Kilbrannan...

Today's objectives are to complete the front footplate items and the boiler extension boxes refered to above. If I get time, it is probably time to make a start on the chassis. I think this is probably important (if only for my peace of mind) to ensure clearances as well as to allow early engagemwent with the reported issue that the supplied coupling rod centres do not match the frames' wheel centres. For the latter, a set of AG Universal rods is in stores (another bargain from Southampton last week - love it when you find something you actually need in someones pile of parts!) Gus

As you can see below, cab fixed in place - key challenge being to ensure that this is square in all planes as it is one of the datums that will set the boiler's correct mounting both in pitch and in length. This was achieved by tacking one side in place in its slot, checking square both in plan and in side elevation using a try square and then tacking the other cab side checking all the time - this took a few adjustments (and sore fingers) but got there in the end! I also carefully formed the curved turn in by gripping the rear of the cab sheet (prior to fitting it!!!) and applying pressure to the sheet with a ruler. It wasn't perfectly straight but I think will look OK. The lining will soon tell the truth of my assessment! The dodgy looking window is caused by the other side seen through the gap and the fact I'd managed to bend the rear extension at thwe top of the sheet... This afternoon also saw the folding and fitting of the splashers - folding was eased by running a triangular needle file through the fold line a few times and taking time to set them accurately in the bending bars - a quick press with the steel rule, a rub over with the Flexifile emery stick (whilst still secured in the bending bars) and no problems. Soldering in place was tricky - they fit into a narrow half-etched groove on the inside of the footplate inner edge - rather than tack them in place at the front ends as suggested by Tony Wright in his articles I tacked from the outside and then secured the front ends -again with scorched fingers despite trying to fit my trusty pegs in place! I eventually gave up and cut all the spacers etc from the bottom of the jig to afford access BTW...! There are a few tiny gaps at the front end but I will sort these with Miliput from the unside rather than risk compromising the strength and critical length of the front footplate. The above is clearly before securing the seams, curved ends and cleaning up! Below hopefully shows the ensemble reasonably clearly and how easily it is to build in a twist. The boiler expansion plates were folded up and will be fitted tomorrow into the slots on the top of the splashers. The only discovered challenge now is the discovery of the first cosmetic dimensional inaccuracy in that the top edge of the cab is too short - the top rails should extend further aft as shown below. Tomorrow's run may allow me to determine a solution...!

Back again and getting a quick post in whilst the iron heats up! The front footplate looks fine still and will check the measurements and squareness directly, but will probably leave the tacks for a while and not fully run the soldered seams until a bit further down the line to be on the safe side. Back to it! Edit: PS Picked up Peter Walker's Ian Allan album on LNER 2-6-0s from the "Working Steam" series at the Southampton exhibition last week so it wasn't a complete washout as far as progress was concerned..!

Good luck! It just goes to show that determination and logical thought will usually present an answer. Regarding the brakes, have you thought about soldering some NS or brass sheets together and fretting the brakes out? I haven't tried it for loco brakes and it might take a few attempts to nail it but it might be easier than whittling? Gus

Doc, Thanks for posting - I'm stuck in the south on duty this weekend so whilst I am about to get off to the Southampton exhibition, I am separated from my soldering iron and K2 this week, so thanks for the fix! BTW, have you successfully solved the clearance issue with your coupling rods striking the superstructure yet? I wasn't sure from the post last week but thought it sounded hopeful...! Gus

Look forward to seeing it and yourself there!

Front footplate/buffer beam constructed and tacked in place. Will post a couple of pics if I get time tomorrow but that will be the last chance I get on Loch Treig for a couple of weeks as I am duty next week-end...

Made it in the end - and some progress on the cab last night and this afternoon. I first dressed the cabsides to fit the formed curves as closely as possible and once satisfied, fitted the etched window surrounds. I decided after considering Tony Wright's advice and looking carefully at various phots that 30A fusewire would make adequate beading at the rear of the cab - the 15A used on the tender didn't look beefy enough. This was fitted by soldering tye long vertical first (to provide an anchor) and then coaxing the wire round the half etched guide using pliers, tweezers, files (to push) and then soldered in place. The key element is getting everything square as the correctly fitted cab front will allow for a correctly fitted boiler etc. I took my time with this and achieved it with success in the end - careful and repeated test fitting to the footplate helped along with soldering against my try squares and some wooden blocks I have also tested for square. In the pic below the cab has been laid into the slots on the footplate that accept tabs on the bottom of tyhe cab sheets... Couldn't resist... Only slight concern was that in comparing the cab spectacles (and the Isinglass drawing...) to my many photos, the latter made the spectacle corners look rounded as here: Eventually the penny dropped (just before I took up my needle files!) and I realised that it was dirt in the window corners that cused this appearance - mentally filed for weathering stage! Formed the roof but won't fit at least until the cab is soldered in place, and probably not till near the end of the build. I still have to form the curve-in on the rear of the cab sheets too. Have cut out and dressed the front footplate sections (the real accuracy critical part as if you screw it up the cylinders won't fit or there will be an unprototypical gap) so they will be constructed tonight and fitted if I have time - Vernier at the ready! Gus

Having had 1 flight cancelled and rescheduled to this evening, I am hoping that the snow will not delay further progress this weekend by keeping me separated from my (Scottish) workbench...

Looking at the photo above Mark, it looks like Lochgorm Works might have done the same thing...! I wish you luck and will have a Hmmm session next time I'm out for a trot on your behalf. I'll assume you've already considered the obvious like thinning crankpins or behind the splashers...

Cheers JB - I will take my time and resist the temptation to solder solidly too early! Look carefully, tack and go away for a while before coming back for a jaundiced look pays I find... I'll try and remember my advice come Saturday! Gus

A good afternoon session saw the tender put to one side (after tidying up the interior joins with Milliput yesterday) pending sourcing some half round 0.9mm wire, and a start on the loco footplate. Tony Wright's BRM article warned about this and whilst I found it daunting (and challenging in execution), it wasn't too terrifying. I must say after a careful read of the instructions and the article last night, and some careful thought whilst pounding the pavements on a run this morning, I elected to follow the instructions by not building the chassis first which would I thought maximise the strength of the jig that is used to form the footplate around the valances. This pic shows the jig and valances cut from the etch frame and note that I did follow Tony's advice and leave part 6 in place. Folding this accurately was a real challenge even using bending bars and my vice and only one side (the one without part 6) folded cleanly - the phot below shows the result on the other side but luckily not the blue air that attracted a ticking off from my 16 year old daughter... Notwithstanding though, some careful tweaking (which would have been required anyway I guess) ensured that the 2 valances were parallel, square and the correct distance apart, achieved by checking against the half etched rebates on the underside of the footplate they would fit into ultimately. My example actually has one of these rebates slightly closer to the outside than t'other but still sufficiently inset from the edge to be acceptable. I declared satisfaction once the footplate sat comfortably on the valances with these sniugly in their rebates... Then it was time to put the Gresley curve onto the footplate (a kit make or break moment.... Gulp!) Tony Wright curved the footplate in its entirety before fitting and adjusting it and whilst I can see the logic in this, I felt that was asking for trouble because if an error is made, it will be very difficult to correct it without wrinkling the thin brass of the footplate. Instead I again stuck with the instructions and formed the first curve ahead of the cab using a file handle as a former and starting the curve with ref to the provided drawing, cross checked with the Isinglass one. The remaining flat section is now attached to the rear part of the valances after first curving the rear extensions of the latter under the rear of the cab footplate: I did deviate from the instructions by not fitting the rear drawbar and regretted this as it provides needed stiffening (as the instructions state!) whilst carefully forming the footplate from front to rear using pressure applied by fingers and pieces of wood - do, however, use the cab side sheets to ensure that the initial s-curve is accuratetly formed before proceeding too far along the flat section. It took and hour or so's teaking, moving a cm or two along at a time and doing both sides together rather than one followed by thethe other which I am sure is a recipe for disaster... Firm pressure using my (now very scorched) clothes peg sections held everything in place as well as helping to form the curves. Be advised, though, that it is easy to press too hard and deform the supporting jig although luckily I spotted this before it became critical (I hope...!). Ultimately though, I was rewarded with this, and the end of the valance sections matched the etched rebates within 0.5mm - the instructions tell you to worry if they don't but give no guidance on what to do! That about completes this week's progress (apart from some painting of the loco yard on Kilbrannan Ferry using some bargain acrylics bought from Acorn art here in the burgh.

JB, missed the plate on the drawing. Did it extend the full width of the coal space and was it the same depth as the lockers (ie like a shelf across the top of the lockers)? Haven't got access to the drawings at present...

Corrected - and quickly! Now to hit the road to Pompey....

Good session yesterday with the front handrails and tender rear detailling finished. The lamp irons on the rear are those by Mainly Trains (designed by Iain Rice). These are slightly overscale I think but capture the shape well and are reasonably (but not hugely) robust - unfortunately I ran out of the tapered ones so tweaked some parallel ones and these match reasonably well. The lower RH one does look slightly high in the photo above but it did look fine when I did it - getting them all straight was a challenge. I did so by eye, tinning the rear of each mounting point and the tender back with a very thin layer of 145, before sweating each in place with a hot iron and plenty of flux. I broke a couple trying to coax them into place with the tip of a round file in their little pools of molten metal (hence making some more/running out) and found ensuring that the bases (ie mounting plates) lined up was the key to a good line. The irons themselves can be gently tweaked/levered once securely in place (a good test!!). After that, the rear steps (and front ones) were a dawdle. I folded each to shape (remebering that the lower/larger front tender steps need to be folded with the securing flange uppermost and thus an "outside" fold). The front handrails were straightforward and secured with solder prior to removing the inside of the handrail stantions tails from the inner tender sheets with a grinding wheel on the Dremel (alternative new career - dentistry?!) BTW, I shaped the steps by making the folds first, reinforcing with a little solder, and then gripping the edges in a flat fronted pair of pliers before pushing upwards with a small file/ruler. this gave a reasonably sharp, but curved edge to the turn-up at the edge of each step. Next job is the coal rails and rear coal plate, followed by the water filler and other whitemetal fittings - the vac and steam heat pipes have just been temporarily fitted. Since I am about to drive back south though, the above will have to wait though! (Although I just about have time to check that lower right hand iron and fix it if required....!). Time to consider JB's wire suggestion! Gus (PS - suggest leaving the guard irons off until a late stage for anyone else building this kit - they do tend to get caught on things and are easily bent inwards).

Impressed! It's almost enough to make me take out another mortgage and go down the S7 route! (As it happens, I managed the working brakes on my B1 but that was only due to the difficulty in gluing Hornby soft plastic LOL!) I am quite tempted by 7mm at times but do enjoy the detailing in 4mm - when I retire from the RN in a year or 2 I might take up jewellery making as a second career! Gus