AlfaZagato

I'd look to see if someone offers 'stone chippings' as a ballast/grit.   Plasticard is going to end up looking very regular by definition.

If I'm reading the blueprint correctly, vs. how you have it staged, you plan to mount the motor under/in the cab?  What would your goal be for that?  Does it offer more space for sound/keep-alive?

1 hour ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:

Been thinking more on this… Would a resin kit be doable? Make silicone casts from the supplied sprues, then cast new sprues out of resin, would get rid of all the prep work you need to do with 3D printing…

 

Though I can already see them being expensive, given a real person would have to physically make the casts and mould the sprues, cure the resin, do any necessary cleanup, then ship them out, compared to digitally remaking the components and putting them on Shapeways, an on-demand 3D printing service, where all one would have to do is recreate the parts, prep them for printing, and let Shapeways (and the modeller) handle the rest.

 

Just an idea, but one I don’t see being too viable… Maybe for something like replica body shells for older models it could be doable? But otherwise not much of a viable option.

Resin still scares a lot of modelers.   There's also safety concerns with its working.   Resin would make sense for producing a 3D design, though.  Print the prototype, then cast from there.

If you want a challenge, you could try the 'Flying Bufferbeam.'

I wasn't aware there was a distinction.  I've only seen 'N20' mentioned in regards to the ones with the gearboxes.

Should be fine.   I think some on here have done sizable 7mm with N20s.

How's the weight on that thing so far?  I suppose difficult to judge against a normal wagon.

Probably cheaper than either of my sound-fitted models.   That little Lkw was $200!

Yeah, an Iron wagon would have been turn of the century AFAIK.

Those are charming beasts.   Good to know these flashy little dock shunters have some basis.

Somehow I missed you were doing a long Mink.   Neat wagons.   Were they the sort of thing that would have gone behind 'Night Owls' on express freight?   Seem rarely photographed.

If you've done this, shouldn't be much of a work to lock the axle and swap the wheels.

Second-fiddle to Bistromath for a minute.

I figured.

My thought had been that, to my knowledge, turbines offer negligible hammer-blow, and that hammer blow had been part of the 'rough and tumble' life of a railway.

Funny, doesn't look like a Buick to me.  (So many layers to that joke)  

Unrelated, a thought I've had recently that may have already been brokered here.   Would have combining a high-pressure boiler, like the Yarrow on 'Hush-Hush,' with a turbine-drive arrangement as on Turbomotive have improved the performance of either?

I fell off this thread early on.   Are newer batches of the Hush-Hush decent runners?

Fruit D's were absolutely 'brown' stock.  Though I wouldn't doubt there being an almost-matching Mink that would have been gray.

Reminds me I need to check the Kadee on my J70 against the gauge.   I fitted a short at a show on Saturday.  Had no problems, though I had preemptively bent the hose damn near in half.

Unrelated, but I think that is the first time I've seen a Barclay next to anything else I can scale.   I didn't realize it was so small.

There's a method from the car modelers.  You replace the to-be damaged panels with double layers of foil.  Nothing crumples like metal.   Have to use foil, though.  Photoetch tends to be too rigid and thick at this scale.

In re internal planking, if the wagon is to be loaded, maybe only scribe the top plank or two?

Didn't these tend to bulge at the base?  Looks good so far.

As long as you're clear in your listing, don't worry about it.

I'm perfectly OK if we see an increase, even a doubling in price, if we're getting a match truck.  Especially if it's Midland-style.