Jump to content
 

AlfaZagato

Members
  • Posts

    1,328
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Chicago, Illinois, U.S.A.
  • Interests
    Pre-war Great Western, green diesel WR, Woodhead route, 2'3" Welsh narrow gauge.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,381 profile views

AlfaZagato's Achievements

1.7k

Reputation

  1. IIRC Rev. Awdry listed one of their numbers, but not both. One or the other may have been real!
  2. I think I'll go with 2834. Lines up nicely with justifying Talavera. Reminds me, I need to renumber my 812. I plan to renumber it to be 'Donald' in about '32.
  3. I'd look to see if someone offers 'stone chippings' as a ballast/grit. Plasticard is going to end up looking very regular by definition.
  4. I'll give a block a try. What material do you use? My thoughts are plasticard.
  5. Just received this lug in the mail from TMC. If anyone remembers, I have a penchant for ugly locos. I lucked out, though. Built, running, painted not only in the right color for my collection, but numbered correctly as well. About the only disappointment is the builder made absolutely zero provision for a rear coupling. I have ideas. Main problem is that there is no substructure behind the rear tender axle. Nothing to drill into, nothing really to glue to. My first thought was to add a block. I've had bad luck with such arrangements before. Even 5-minute epoxy doesn't quite grab well enough against a train. Second thought is an L-bracket, soldered at multiple points. That then brings the issue of my lack of talent at soldering. Third thought is running a long bolt up through the footplate. Probably the best cross between strength and simplicity. Problem there is how to disguise the top of the bolt. I thought of fabricating a toolbox to cover it. I've seen no evidence from what few pics I can find that such a toolbox was ever carried by the class. She runs OK on the test plank. Won't have access to a layout until next month for a good run, though.
  6. If I'm reading the blueprint correctly, vs. how you have it staged, you plan to mount the motor under/in the cab? What would your goal be for that? Does it offer more space for sound/keep-alive?
  7. Resin still scares a lot of modelers. There's also safety concerns with its working. Resin would make sense for producing a 3D design, though. Print the prototype, then cast from there.
  8. If you want a challenge, you could try the 'Flying Bufferbeam.'
  9. I wasn't aware there was a distinction. I've only seen 'N20' mentioned in regards to the ones with the gearboxes.
  10. Should be fine. I think some on here have done sizable 7mm with N20s.
  11. How's the weight on that thing so far? I suppose difficult to judge against a normal wagon.
  12. Probably cheaper than either of my sound-fitted models. That little Lkw was $200!
  13. Yeah, an Iron wagon would have been turn of the century AFAIK.
  14. Those are charming beasts. Good to know these flashy little dock shunters have some basis.
  15. Somehow I missed you were doing a long Mink. Neat wagons. Were they the sort of thing that would have gone behind 'Night Owls' on express freight? Seem rarely photographed.
×
×
  • Create New...