John57sharp

Major good news! After the dispiriting news of jamming gears, I put it away for a day or two while I got on with something else. After carefully removing the wheels and gears until it freed up, I traced the problem, I think, to one of the short stub axles on the gear train, it was just too short, so I replaced it. After that it all ran smoothly, so I carried on, reassembled everything, even the rods, and it still ran! So I soldered the rods on with the microscopic washers and oil soaked rizla paper. It still runs. So far so wonderful. Stay tuned while I put the cosmetic outer frames on and so on. Once I’ve recovered from the celebration!

The drive train has become locked. The driving wheels will only turn 1/3 revolution either way. Hmmm. I’ve stripped it back to just the gears and the problem persisted, nothing obvious, so the free gear axle came off and the motor turns the worm wheel freely. Phew. I put the free gear axle back, and after an initial stutter, it appears to run well. I’ll do more testing and slowly add the centre axle with gears and wheels and see how it goes.

Thanks, it took yonks to get it right... I use 2 ikea swan neck spots, very bright, and a swan neck magnifying glass that I can get right in close too, seems to work. I occasionally use clip on things for my specs, but less happy with these. no progress yet, may have to take a gear or two out. May also be the worm moving, not sure if that’s the cause or a symptom. john

Today was a good day, the brakes rigging and everything finally went together and looked great, the 4 free axled wheels turned fine. Great result. A little bit of shenanigans followed when the cross wires were cut and replaced by sleeves to insulate the 2 sides, one shoe fell off, but soon fixed. Then, a small setback. The whole gear train, previously running well, even with the wheels coupled, is locked solid... More on this story later.

All is not as well as I thought. In the earlier entry the brake shoes were lined up one hole too high. My fault for misreading the instructions. I also had tried to attach the brake rigging too high. A golden rule that I have yet to learn fully is that if a part doesn’t fit without force, you may have made an error. These kits are good, not many errors at all, so if it don’t fit, you’ve probably done it wrong! Take 2 seems to be hanging together well.

Getting the brake shoes onto the rigging proved to be a long job. Maybe too long for something that will be scarcely visible. Anyway they are now hung, just the control rods to go on now. also put 2 van roofs on, took one off again..

The photo helps see what needs doing!

Just finished the brake hangers on the 08 quickly this morning. later added some paint to my current off topic project, a 4mm scale figure from Modelu. These are really nice.

A long time since the last post.. times have changed. This project started off as a possible DJLC entry, but it has moved to a form of shelf layout, hugely inspired by Templefields in MRJ in concept and layout, but not just a direct copy shrunk down. My other major inspiration was Canada Street (maybe I’m in the wrong scale?) which I was delighted to see in Liverpool a few years back. This shelfie won’t be very industrial, but it may change era. I’ve almost built 2 Easitrac turnouts from kits using a mix of homemade and bought in jigs, and laid some plain track to learn about that. My first loco, the 08, is coming on well. The chassis runs in both directions 6-coupled. I’ve fettled the cosmetic frames so that it still runs with these fitted, and today I’ve been fitting brake rigging using .3mm wire and plastic wire insulation to make it removable. Seen here on my homemade cradle and test stand. This is my second etch, the first was too far gone to be worth continuing, so I took the hit and replaced it. I’m glad I did, it’s made a huge difference. This reflects my philosophy of not accepting anything I’m not happy with, many things get started again with the aim of improvement, which mostly happens. On this subject, a wagon update will follow.

This is a great idea, I will sort out my list and join in soon. cheers John

Just had a go with this, it’s a copycat of David Eveleigh’s Orion, but I used a simple bamboo box from somewhere like Wilco, sawed and skrawked a chunk out (reused for the side fence) and added a clamp from 3 lolly sticks. Junior hacksaw slots to accommodate the buffer beams if required. Reversed peg clamp, half peg clamp and my chassis building stand, basically 2 cocktail sticks mounted on a bamboo plank to align with the holes in the chassis. Reduces handling no end. Not visible, this bit drops into a plasticard cradle which houses a 9v battery for electrical testing and running in. Incidentally, the 08 is on it’s second etch... this one seems to be working, the wheels turn both ways, coupled, and I’ve been running it in on the stand. You can hear it getting smoother. Next job is the brakes, I’ve got the rigging made up from the 1st etch, but I think it may be too warped to use. Perseverance,patience and small improvements have been very much boosted by the right tools and jigs, and the encouragement and inspiration found on here and other related sites, the 2mm Assoc mag etc. cheers all John

It is 1-231 and it’s really useful. I recently bought it having reached this stage with the kit. John

Can anybody tell me please how to search a forum for the term class 37 that will only turn up results with class and 37 in them? I get loads of entries with just class. 37 by itself gives no results, I am sure there are class 37 articles in it. edit, sorry realised wrong topic, and seems to need to be done in google search. Disregard message, delete if you want, don’t think I can cheers john

Of course, looked everywhere except the obvious place... thanks Nick B

Just want to check before ordering anything, because I can’t find it written down anywhere. Do the Association drop in wheels work ok in the Farish 37? TIA John

Thanks Ian.

Thanks again Jim. John

Evening all! I’ve finally reached the point where I’m about to lay some track. My current query is how best to deploy droppers, I get that you need to apply them to the underside of both ends of all rails, but: Just solder flat to the underside and 90 degree bend to the hole through the baseboard? What kind of wire, multi strand or solid? Does it matter? is it far better to use brass sleepers for this? I have looked around but all the discussions appear to be about DC vs DCC and less about the basics. I’m just dc right now but could move up in the future, it’s a simple plan.... cheers in advance John currently a little distracted by OpenReach working outside in a telescopic arm at gone 10pm. Must be serious,

Great info, thanks both Pixie and Jim, I may give that a go. cheers John

Way back on page 5 you have a photo of some (I think) Mathieson 3 link style couplers on your mineral wagons. Be interested to know if these are still in use and whether anything like them is still available, assuming a positive answer to the first part! cheers John

Enjoyed your update, I wonder if you could expand on up your glazing tweaking at some point? I’ve got a Dapol. 22 with a touch of prismatic. cheers and thanks John

Thanks for the crossover info Ian John

Thanks Don, good tip. John

Any advice or pointers please for using 2 Easitrac pegged B6 turnouts as a crossover? I’m guessing build them together as a unit, but I’m wondering if the standard 22.4mm between centre lines would have to be widened, or is there some overlap to trim out? TIA John

Thanks Izzy, I only have an iPad at the mo. It does almost everything I need. i don’t think this really needs Templot, it’s mostly straights and Easitrac pegged turnouts. I am rather inspired by your Priory Road articles though, thanks.