Harry2013

I have been reading your Eastwood Town thread, your layout is a source of inspiration you have obviously invested a lot of time and effort in it.

Thanks, Gordon, I misquoted the dimensions given on the page I linked to, I should have referred to dimension 'R' which has you said is 60mm. In his book Lowery says the baseboard of the layout is 8 x 4ft, a gradient of 1:36 is far from ideal. A better gradient would mean a larger baseboard, or some clever baseboard constrution which allowed the upper level to be inclining and the lower level to be declining such that at the point they crossover the required clearance is achieved. In effect the total clearance is 'split' between the two. This image is the closest explanation I can readily find, althought its for an N gauge layout, but the principle is the same. http://0.tqn.com/d/modeltrains/1/0/q/0/-/-/crossover_split.png

Also my first too. I think theres a lot going on beneath the scenary to manage the track geometry. This chart gives minimum height dimensions above track level as 42mm http://www.elginmodelrailwayclub.co.uk/2010/advice/dimensions/standard-railway-modelling-dimmensions.html But then you have to think about access for derailments etc. on the other hand that might not be such an issue if the scenary had an "open back". So far as gradient goes I think Peco say the stepest is 1 in 36 some posts Ive read cite 1 in 40 and others as shallow as 1 in 50 (ie 2 cm per metre of track). Ive seen discussions about easing gradients by having the upper track level rising and the lower one falling such that when they intersect their combined change in height makes a big enough clearance. Whether that would work here is another question. EDIT - Ive just checked in Lowerys book on the split level plan he does describe he says he used Horby bridge piers to raise the track. Hornby says these go up to 80mm they suggest using them over 1344mm (ie 1 in 17) or over 1680mm (ie 1 in 21) to get a gradient of 1 in 30 for 80mm clearance you'd need 2.4metre. So I guess its how much clearance above the minimum is needed.

Ive tried to figure out how the gradient between the two levels is going to work in such a tight space, without much success. Unfortunately I cann't accomodate an 8 by 4 or even a 7 by 4...but I might have shot at doing the station area.

Thank you I've been busy searching for CJ Freezer books on the usual sites and trying to decide which was the most likely as a source for a plan. Just bought "60 plans for small locations" & "plans for various locations" - no doubt some duplication between the two but for a total of £6, it dosent really matter.

Although the book goes into detail about constructing a diffferent two level figure of 8 layout it does not give any details about the track pieces used or even mention what curve radius either is based on. Most of the photos in the book are B&W however between pages 48 & 49 there are 4 pages of colour plates which give a detailed explanation of scenic techniques of the layout I posted. The book was published by Argus Specialist Publications (1982) they also published the magazine "Model Railways" at some stage Dave Lowery was the editor and CJ Freezer was a contributor - so the image I showed may well be derived from a 'Freezer' layout. [Edit - Apparently CJF was editor of Model Railway 19878-83 so "may well be" perhaps should be read as "more than likely".] I have scanned two further images from earlier stages in the construction which might help to develop a track plan. If I have time I might play around with some Peco paper templates and see what I can come up with. There are larger versions of these two images on my photobucket acc http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/Harry-UK/library/Lowery%20Layout

If the 'best layout' means the one I wish to have... In the book "Model Railways A complete guide to the hobby" by Dave Lowery 1982 He describes this 8ft x 4ft 00 guage layout which if I had the space I would love to build Trainset layout ? perhaps but looks like a lot of fun too

Thanks for confiming for me Phil, earlier Id been Googling turnout control options, your previous comment about DPDT sent me back to check what I read. Thanks Offtherails, I was afraid that my the ideal solution would be expensive, unfortunately on my modest layout I'll have to make lots of compromises.

Thank you both for your replies. As you will have gathered I dont yet have a grasp of the basics. From what youve said I would guess that the Blue Point switch machine which has a "DPDT snap-action toggle switch inside the compact plastic housing changes electrical connections to the turnout frog to prevent stalling of locomotives" would work if I'd rather have a manual controlled point. Harry

Thanks for the replies. I dont have a track plan yet, Im trying to figure out the cost of doing things before hand. I dont want to plan on something and then find out it costs too much. If I used a PL15 would that also mean I have to motorise that point? Yes I saw the frog juicer you mention Phil, but focused on the AR1 becuase its slightly cheaper. Would the single frog juicer work - its a lot cheaper ?

Hi, I'm trying to figure out both the technical and budgetary limitations that my simple DCC layout will have to be designed within. I might want to use a reversing loop. I realise this cause problems with the track polarity. I'm looking for a cost effective solution. On http://www.digitrains.co.uk/ecommerce/dcc-accessories/auto-reversers/ There are various items from £10 - £60+ The AR1 Auto Reversing Module @ £22 appears to be suitable. It says "operates with any DCC system except 1 Amp starters." Not sure what they mean by a '1Amp starter' - an additional power supply ? If so which is suitable ? Is it really 'automatic', ie is continous running possible without me flicking/press a switch ? Explanations, advice on better/cheaper solutions, or whether I should forget the reverse loop altogether, will be most helpful. Thanks Harry