RexAshton
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Posts posted by RexAshton
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On 24/04/2024 at 21:09, joseph benjamin said:
Do model manufacturers such as Hornby and Oxford diecast seek the permission of the owners of trademarks such as Freighliner, Ford and Rolls Royce to use them on their models. I ask because I've just read in a April 2004 issue of Model Railroader that Union Pacific was suing Athearn and Lionel over the use of their trademark on models.
I believe that when UP realised how much free advertising they were getting they didn't pursue the action. They were also going to sue the decal manufacturers at the same time.
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7 hours ago, Steadfast said:
No, that's a Dapol motor.
I'd recommend a look at the Bachmann spares website www.Bachmann-spares.co.uk and if nothing is obvious, send them an email.
Jo
Everything but the motor when I looked.
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18 hours ago, GrumpyPenguin said:
You could probably make that comment on the great majority of RMWeb threads.
True
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Will someone PLEASE get back to what the OP originally asked?
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The website is pretty clear as here. https://www.warrenshephard.com/GWR Locos/52XX1.htm
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Nothing stopping you make MJT ones rigid but your stock would run better with the compensation and they're easy to assemble.
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I've used the DGs for years with excellent results. I know you're working in 00 but 0 gauge ones are a better bet. Dimensionally they are the same as the 00 ones but are etched on slightly thicker brass. This means that the folds do not need reinforcing with solder - making them easier to chemically black (paint will gum them up). The extra thickness also improves the fit of the delay latch which on the 00 ones can drop down the side of the hook as it's quite a loose fit in its hole.
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3 hours ago, WIMorrison said:
When I use my Multimice if I press the key briefly then the key latches, if I press and hold it releases when I let it go.
There is this reference in the manual that seems to confirm the operation I see.
3.2.6 The “FUNCTION KEYS” are used to activate locomotive functions (F1– F28, e.g. the horn on a locomotive with sound or a digital coupling) by pressing the corresponding function key for an extended time (at least 1 second). The function remains active for as long as you hold the Function Key. If you press the key only briefly, the desired function is activated normally. You select the desired status using the arrow keys. Factory setting: OFF ▪ To confirm, press the OK-key. You return to the start level “FUNCTION KEYS.
Thanks Iain. I'll try that and see what happens.
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49 minutes ago, ITG said:
I agree. People’s experience may be specific to gauge/scale, DC v DCC, solenoid v slow switch etc, under v over board. A few clues may help to motivate potential helpers if they know they would be working on familiar ground.
I hope you find someone local, or what about trying the local club?
Ian
I agree. An email to your local club secretary would almost certainly get a reply.
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15 hours ago, WIMorrison said:
You don't program the button on the Multimaus, you program the function in the decoder to operate when F2 is pressed.
Thanks. I understand that and the brake function works fine using a Digitrax handset. usinf the Multimause the brakes don't release when I release F2 unless I press it a second time.What I want to do is change the F2 button from toggle function to intermittent if that makes sense.
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7 hours ago, peterm1 said:
What you would need to do if possible is set the F2 button to momentary to have the best control over brake force.
Thanks peterm. Do you you know how I would do that.
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Hi All
Does anyone know if it possible to program the F2 button on a Roco Multimaus to use as an active brake button please.
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On 23/02/2024 at 15:55, cctransuk said:
You're not 'spoiling the ship' if you buy (many times more cheaply) the exact same product in a bulk quantity, rather than a repacked tiny quantity.
Still if you have money to burn .....
CJI.
Maybe not but then neither are you helping the suppliers on which we all rely.
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On 10/02/2024 at 07:05, TomCrewe said:
In the past I have used non- prescription reading glasses from the chemists for close up work, later prescription reading glasses with and in conjunction with non-prescription ones.
Now I have had a cataract removal operation in one eye and find the combination of glasses I used to use don't work so well, I have also seen the magnifiers in the picture being advertised (£18).
Has anyone tried this type?
Are they 'Good' or 'Too Good to be True'??
I use the headband version of this. It's A1.
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Try Olivias Trains.
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Hi
Does anyone know which (if any) of the solder pads on this can be used to attach a stay alive to via a Life Link or similar interface. Thanks.
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Hi Paul. I have several sets but will send you a list when I've fished them out. Good idea if it doesn't break copywrite.
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1 hour ago, Richard_A said:
I'll be doing this from now on, just don't want to waste what I already have.
You may find that the EM wheels will foul the brake gear. With care it should be possible to remove the brake gear and reposition it. If not you'll have to carefully shave back the brake blocks until the wheel flanges clear them.
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If you have access to a vernier caliper I'd suggest measuring the gauge of the MPD at each end. If they are different it would suggest a faulty product. If that's the case, contact DCC Concepts direct - in my experience as a customer they are very helpful.
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Looking on the lner.info web page the trailing bogie looks similar to the Sentinel one. Nucast did a kit for one years ago but I don't know if anyone re-released it. If they did you might be able to obtain sideframe castings from them.
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Some years ago Parkside started moulding their chassis in ABS as its stronger. This would make MEK or Butanone more suitable but it appears that Peco now mould them in styrene so any decent solvent will work.
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4mm chalk marks decals/transfers supplier ?
in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips
Posted
Beat me to it Mike. 😂