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pdanny

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Posts posted by pdanny

  1. Hi all, I just spoke to Gareth at Replica Railways. The website is down due to technical issues but the store is still trading and you can place orders over the phone. Trading hours are limited to Wednesday mornings and Saturdays but if ordering over the phone and he doesn't answer, to leave a message. Tel 01793 642594

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  2. 14 minutes ago, The Evil Bus Driver said:

    Ah that's a shame. When you did yours I saw you cut them at the bottom of the gangway door to make a buffer plate,  did you use filler to build up the gap at the bottom? I have a set of these white metal ones and I was wondering how to do it. Also are the VEP cab ends moulded in or are they a separately applied piece?

    the VEP vestibule door is cut out of the Hornby cab fascia and then the vestibule door is built around it. The door is 2mm in from the back so like the real thing sits slightly proud of the cab front. The whole vestibule door is then glued to the MJT cab front.

    IMG_20200220_073535_029.jpg.0bb9c5406871a60b43eaa0379a6eb199.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. On 14/07/2020 at 15:13, The Evil Bus Driver said:

    Wow these are fantastic. I've just finished reading through the thread and am inspired to get hold of another VEP (Mine is an original one so I might keep it as it is and buy another to modify) I have some MJT ends and sides for a TC but I might well get some CIG sides and build something. Just need a new modelling desk now. Have you considered, using one of your gangways as a master and making a silicone mould or something, then you could turn out gangway units with less work involved.

     

    A friend and I did some resin castings but they never looked as good. 

  4. Lockdown has had me working on a rebuild of an old DCKit that was abandoned over 20 years ago and a commission that surprisingly ive enjoyed so much I want to keep it.

    The 4EPB DCKit was started in the late 90s but I was ill equipped and lacking in my skill set to complete it well enough. Its been sat in a box all this time just waiting for me to finish it off but upon reflection,  needed a lot of work to bring it inline with the Bachmann 2EPB and the rest of the kits and RTR units. ciiy1r.jpg.bf90db046629972b0840feadda03a48c.jpg20200603_001120.jpg.3d7bdc4f0dbcfe8907e41f0778c79d60.jpg20200606_181948.jpg.9e9152e4bddbea94eeb915d9ca3469d6.jpg20200606_182057.jpg.7cb0c4d3caca9385e0eaaca837d9b7c0.jpg

     

    With the Internet,  various detailing parts and better tools, equipment and building/painting skills now, im really thrilled to havebbeen able to make a much better job of it and totally love the end result.

    Additionally,  having been successful with my 4BEP,  it was inevitable that I would be approached on building a 4CEP and I'm absolutely love the build of it. With the paint job done and the mofel now going into the glazing and detailing stages, handing it over is goingnto be a real challenge. 

    IMG_20200625_123216_479.jpg.6d1d905d1472355967b760b97fbdab5a.jpgIMG_20200709_094829_978.jpg.ca169a67936439c4e586b6fda0fb8ff5.jpg20200709_002820.jpg.f6cb3038c9679ee5a524a843c6ed4fb9.jpg

    • Like 10
    • Craftsmanship/clever 6
  5. On 21/04/2020 at 07:01, Rich Papper said:

    Very impressive build so far. How are you intending to do the silver window frames? I've used silver pen before but never on something this big.

    Thanks

    Rich

    I've used a paint pen before when I was building my Class 442 as it's easier with the Mk3 windows to get a consistent thickness on the window frame edge, however, on the MJT windows I found using a fine paint brush much better. I hand painted them all. It took a while and involved having to go back and repair some bleeds but the end result was much cleaner than with a pen.

    20200423_001939.jpg.2ced4fb83bc6e345b1d5218737e75608.jpg20200423_001643.jpg.402836e37f74bf59e180cfc95b460b08.jpg

    • Like 11
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  6. On 20/04/2020 at 11:59, Taz said:

    Excellent work there.

     

    Can I ask for more details on how you do your door hinges.
    When I build brass coaches I drill .5 holes and solder in hinges from Comet detailing etches.

    so I am intrigued at you adding them after painting.

     

    Thanks.

    #4CIG Conversion: I was asked to share how I fitted the door handles, hinges and handrails so when detailing the Trailer Standard I took these photos:

    IMG_20200329_093314_799.jpg.b111966c3055ab6ac2127ec04960be9e.jpg1. I always add these to the model once its fully painted and varnished as the detail is so small and at this point it won't get in the way or damaged during the paint job. (Masking can pull the hinges off)

    IMG_20200329_093314_770.jpg.a9537efa15e7e62946a21c8e3dafe285.jpg2. You will need a pack of 2930 MJT BR Door Handles which co tain all the hinges, handles and handrails needed for Mk1 units

    IMG_20200329_093314_771.jpg.aad47bf2fb5c9738b88507ca246efd4e.jpg3. Applying the hinges is fairly straightforward. Cut out of the pack however many you need with a sharp knife. Using a cocktail stick dab tiny drops of super glue wherever you want them to go (refer to photos to ensure you get this right. Remember they only go on doors that open outwards).

    IMG_20200329_093314_774.jpg.40d964967451ca773a9b74b207c6ab94.jpg4. Use a cocktail stick with a moist end to pick and place the hinge in place. The actual hinge line sits over the gap etched between the door and the carriage side so be sure to get all 3 fitted in a straight line.

    IMG_20200329_093314_781.jpg.4c8f3506da3062abfae0589b8be04aa5.jpg5. To add the handles and handrails (I do this after glazing as drilling out the holes often goes through any glazing fitted so its easier this way than glazing afterwards) ensure the predrilled holes are clear of paint following the paintjob by redrilling them out with a 0.5mm hand drill.

    IMG_20200329_093314_773.jpg.1dfd05b2ae621de82a80cf477bcd7947.jpg6. Cut the door handles and relevant sized handrails from the pack with a sharp knife. When cutting, cut them right up to the metal sheet so you have at least 1mm extra. When cutting, you will feel a groove where to place you knife, it's literally right at the end by the edge of the sheet to the handrail/handle

    IMG_20200329_093314_796.jpg.b2c4404ed50896e41ca4d9f316827305.jpg7. Using fine tweezers or point ending pliers, pick up the handle, dab the ends with a tiny drop of super glue and drop into the predrilled hole. Do the same for the handrail, with the etched groove approx 0.3mm clear of the drill hole. When fitting the door handle, ensure the etched line on it is facing the door handle and door itself

    IMG_20200329_093314_797.jpg.ed00906326eeb28db07febc88f624b6d.jpg8. After 3-5mins once the glue has dried, bend the door handrail 90° away from the door/door handle so its parallel with the coach side. Its soft enough to do with your fingers or a cocktail stick.

    IMG_20200401_193809_575.jpg.52bcbd005c538e74237cc139251b21c4.jpg9. These are now ready for painting, job done #VariousMultipleUnits

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  7. You may recall I also touched base on my next project, building a refurbised 4BEP from an existing Bachmann 4CEP. 

    Using MJT brass sides and SPM undercarriage components,  I am currently in the process of building this unit. MJT only provide the 4CEP sides so I had to commission the buffet car sides through the amazing team at PPDLtd.

    Progress do far is that the model has been built, primed and I'm currently working through the paint job.

    IMG_20200407_074216_264.jpg.6365332b87c009a12369a6be7487dc3f.jpgIMG_20200407_074216_265.jpg.5130ec261eecdbc821848fa658a848ca.jpgIMG_20200407_074216_280.jpg.7879faed01f0dd3cfe33e474129e546f.jpgIMG_20200411_112918_599.jpg.d54f1ce3fc1a0efe19ca89c56fcab7a6.jpgIMG_20200411_112918_591.jpg.ea05c078b497997f9080113fc7d684d2.jpgIMG_20200411_112918_596.jpg.5968e58da570d4a6bceebc6ac237a182.jpgIMG_20200418_172609_291.jpg.50f9971a0fc1c73ac3157baabf72f2c3.jpgIMG_20200420_080156_744.jpg.1d34525b1651d06864042e2230bd6180.jpgIMG_20200418_172609_292.jpg.137c74c13bcc7ac405dd3e647980d55c.jpgIMG_20200420_080156_743.jpg.73bb5d5f1fdbce954c8133fb54ef8281.jpg

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  8. Started on the next project. 4CIG conversion from a Hornby VEP. Using MJT cabs, sides and additional parts, it's not as challenging this way as it would be working from donor Mk1s. Needless to say, the construction side has been swift with much of the main build complete. All 4 coaches have been built with smaller parts being added now such as step boards, roof vents and water tanks. Just getting it ready for priming now...

    IMG_20200217_073841_725.jpg.8b6076c7c1d1e2c3e31d244a43563e4d.jpgIMG_20200220_073535_029.jpg.1a3c52411ead53a1396639474bb6f6e3.jpgIMG_20200218_094832_347.jpg.920be8a10fee635f5454f2555bbc82fa.jpgIMG_20200224_083534_499.jpg.8ae6a39f1b12f436dff408ecf17bbafa.jpgIMG_20200220_073535_037.jpg.455dcea59cf55adde1f4764353d0dff9.jpgIMG_20200224_083534_504.jpg.5b0dd6a29f408e922c79c5cde98149da.jpgIMG_20200224_083534_505.jpg.b973e0a15111c02ed91e66a01b8016d7.jpgIMG_20200224_083534_498.jpg.d5847133453ac1f4216880e078a67325.jpg

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  9. 12 hours ago, Wagpnmaster said:

    The 5WES is looking great, coming on nicely. Enjoying this thread.

     

    I am also trying to build one and have a few queries. The lower body is a light grey colour as can be seen on your models. What colour did you use for this?  The replacement starting resistors, did you build these or buy them? Finally, numbers. I see on some photos it is just the car number whereas on others, it is preceeded with the set number. Do all cars have the set number or just the driving cars? Did they carry the NSE logo and text at all?

     

     

    Ok, a few points there. So always do your research is the best answer. Gather loads of photos: Google, Flickr, Facebook... you can get pretty much all your answers there. There are some great websites that have really detailed information and pics that will help you ensure you get things like the numbering locations right. If I had known in the 80s/90s how much I would need them, I'd have spent a fortune on film and photos developed at Boots, lol.

    The grey is call NSE Silver Grey, I prefer Precision Paints but I also have Railmatch too. 

    The starting resistors were left overs from various Mk1 unit builds I've done in the past. You can buy Hornby VEP MBS underframes on Ebay for around £5. I've bought a couple in the past and stripped off various components from them. The starting resistors are pretty damn good.

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  10. On 23/01/2020 at 23:53, muddy water said:

    Looking great!

    I think the seats come from Hornby mk 4 TSO stock. I cut some up to complete a class 155 to 153 conversion.

     

    That would make sense as I bought a job lot for next to nothing off Ebay and no-one else bid on them. They're really easy to chop up and set into formation and line up perfectly on plasticard.

     

    This was the part of the build i was dreading before I found them so I'm over the moon with the end result.

     

    20200101_204843.jpg.f8274c96c73e6098cf937fa281f1399a.jpg

    • Like 5
  11. So over the last few weeks I have been working on the Trailer Standard (TS) and considering I made a start on it over a year ago then stopped for other projects, its been one I'm glad to have cracked these last few  weeks. 

    Fully painted with decals added, I've just got the door lining left to add. I've also replaced the bogies with pickups for interior lighting. Reinstalled Shawplan laserglaze and inner end door surrounds. 

    Biggest job was to rebuild the interior with correct seating and of course, Eddie Pond Murals. The seating is former Hornby Class 153 interiors cut up and relocated in line with the Class 442 seating. Thanks to www.NetworkSouthEast.net for their detailed floor plans.

    Really pleased with the end look, ready to install lighting now and secure the roof down.IMG_20191230_073819_445.jpg.d2e5cd66711ce88f3f2e9b5ac451141b.jpgIMG_20191230_073819_444.jpg.cccfca9cbfb22bae469a84227f0b51a4.jpgIMG_20200102_074042_690.jpg.f42b80f4228cef938baa1b6e51290771.jpgIMG_20200102_074042_689.jpg.baee2f70b3c47cb570e1b091ec0f03f6.jpgIMG_20200106_072207_007.jpg.f1883c26ed613517564e73ec1d4d4659.jpgIMG_20200108_072332_888.jpg.449817e13cf7181ad3b510f456296ae7.jpgIMG_20200108_072332_889.jpg.a7e1012f7cfa29dcec629391f38b20c6.jpg20200109_233437.jpg.a99e5d23d512edfce56bd7f4bfcedd04.jpg

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  12. Next project sees my class 442 back on the workbench. In the process of painting the trailer coaches so while these are progressing, I've also commenced changing the MBLS motor. The original was a remotored Lima Class 73 motor however, it was noisy, clunky and struggled strength wise with adhesion issues. So I've stripped out the MBLS coach including the flooring and given that the interior is minimal with the buffet, luggage area and saloon, I'm replacing the entire underframe and flooring with a spare Class 158 motor and frame from Bachmann, which I bought on ebay for £20. Having tested it before, the Bachmann motor is absolutely perfect and even sounds more realistic. 

    IMG_20191212_073738_623.jpg.7677018098f40f31f11510b034341131.jpg20191211_235500.jpg.0b2c16a7abc7e42a0300536172e7ca02.jpg20190916_230944.jpg.298ebed259ce4d7b160132873a6dc33c.jpg

    • Like 12
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  13. 7 hours ago, railtec-models said:

    I love seeing these EMUs come to life. Probably one of my favourite areas of the hobby in terms of rolling stock. Thanks for sharing.

    I had to wait a long time to be able to fulfill the range of EMUs and DEMUs I always wanted for the Southern region I grew up with and even now, have some way to go. Thanks for providing the range of transfers and bespoke numbering that enables us to do all the specific units we want to do. #VeryGrateful

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