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Chris Dark

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Everything posted by Chris Dark

  1. Is anyone familiar with the CPL 0 gauge products? I am wondering if there range of screw couplings work or are fixed? Comming from 00 I’m still getting to grips with the standard 0 gauge manufacturers and what/who does what
  2. Thanks all for the replies and continued discussions. I will keep with the standard parkside buffer as advised above. Would it typically be instanter or screw link coupling fitted to these? The kits comes with vac bags so assume the 3 link is incorrect ? For information I am middling 1940s wartime GWR
  3. Thanks John. I must get myself some literature for accuracy. As I already have these buffers I can continue my kit. Many thanks
  4. Thanks for your replies. From the images I’ve seen the buffers don’t have the top ‘fin’ and have a flat area such as the picture below
  5. Yes I believe so. I’m trying to track down the most accurate buffers. Both RCH buffers types I’ve seen so far do not match the appearance for conflats
  6. Hi all, im building my first parkside conflat wagon kit but notice the buffers are standard RCH type. I’ve asked on Facebook and have been pointed towards slaters plastikard 71569 Lms van buffers. I can’t see good pictures so was wondering if these are the best or if anyone has other options? Any help is appreciated thanks
  7. Size is constrained hence requesting smaller rural stations, i have 20 x 10ft and scale is 0. i can try and upload some fictional plans i have made but i like to try and model actual locations and then use a bit of modellers license to adjust, similar to the two locations i included in my initial post. Thanks for your the replies and comments so far
  8. Thanks both for your suggestions, looking for suggestions on sites that are more compressed if available
  9. Morning all, I am hoping you folk can provide me with examples of locations where the goods yard is downstream from the station, ideally accessed from the platform. If this doesn't sound particularly clear an example would be Saltash. From a modelling point of view, this is a rough idea of what i am aiming to achieve, although obviously a through station, this would be used as a baseplan but built as a terminus (following?) I am looking for fairly small locations with 2-4 sidings, on the same side as the station approach, preferably rural and West/Southern region but not too fussed on this. i have trawled though NLS maps for many hours so have a few ideas already but thought you more knowledgeable folk may assist me further. I am also interested in rural terminus stations where the station approach and goods yard are on the same side (similar to Ashchurch, although clearly a through station) with a headshunt adjacent to the running line. Hopefully this all makes sense. Many Thanks
  10. The metal finish on the Lionheart does make it look the bees knees, unfortunately I don't think any of my local model shops have Dapol version in stock to compare with. how much is it to add sound chip and speaker? generally?
  11. So it sounds like running quality are pretty similar, loco detailing is the same, only real difference being weight and build construction. are the new Dapol panniers different again? Is it worth waiting for them?
  12. Thanks all very the very helpful and quick replies. I sm tempted by the Lionheart due to the good price I am being offered, however if there is significant difference between running quality and details I’m inclined to go with the Dapol version. Stock wise it would be on b set stock and local branch freight, set in early BR pre 1950. does the Dapol fine with the glowing firebox like the Lionheart?
  13. Evening all, i was was hoping I could gain some advice on the difference between the two panniers. I am aware of the price difference, although I have the opportunity to purchase a lionheart version for £280, I understand the lionheart version is metal not plastic which makes it a fair bit heavier. I’m really wondering if the lionheart version is worth the extra money and what the main differences between the models are, apart from what I stated above. All advice is appreciated. thanks
  14. Excellent, thanks very much for the prompt response.
  15. Just a quick question... I loaded Templot yesterday after it updated itself to the titled update and now if I try to join separate pieces of track they no longer link together. Meaning that i have to line them up by site. It's a setting I have not knowingly changed in the past but wondered if anyone can advise how i can get it back? or whether it is linked to the update? Sorry if this doesn't make sense. thanks
  16. Thanks for the advice on this. Is the general conscensious that new locos are easier to convert with wheel pulling or would you always advise for a new wheel set? I appreciate flanges etc so the idea of having the 're-build' a loco isn't on the table just yet. Thanks
  17. Hi All, Hoping people can confirm/deny my underatanding of RTR to EM. I would love to model in p4 for track asthetic reasons, however the cost of doing so just isn't viable currently. I presumed this to be the case for EM also utill i came across a thread which mentioned just widining the back to back of RTR stock. Naturually some models work better than most but I was wondering on locos that are post 2015 is this a viable option, I appreciate it depends on flange width, chassis, manufacturer etc. Now, my understanding is this is an option due to EM being more 'flexible' when it comes to design parameters, I read how p4 flanges need to be shallower and the track needs to be almost perfectly smooth, whilst EM I didn't come across the same thoughts. Of course I would build track to be as smooth as possible but would like to have a bit more room for a drop in standards.... The guinea pig loco is my Bachmann G2A which was the first to be weathered and first to be detailed, so as it's still running I thought it is the right candidate to have this tested. Really the options comes down to wheel sets, I don't want to spend £60+ on new wheels for locos but I would like to alter back to backs to achieve EM running. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks
  18. Thanks for the feedback. I will attempt to weather one of my Halls so hopefully I will do it justice. I will post the results for anyone interested.
  19. Hi All, I was wondering if anyone could help with the following. Somehow 1 of my Kings ended up falling off the shelf and landing on the floor (luckily carpet) even though it has snapped one of the drain cock pipes. this was glued in so think I will need to carefully drill it out. Also, more unusually I recently noticed one of the brake shoes has snapped off. No idea where it could be. So firstly, can someone advise if this kit http://www.petersspares.com/Hornby-x6065-6000-class-acc-bag-king-locos.ir is the correct one for the Hornby King? I emailed Pete but he wasn't able to confirm because the R number isn’t on Hornby service sheets. Secondly does anyone know where I could get a brake shoe from? I haven't got the loco in front of me now but I believe it forms part the chassis so imagine this is harder to put right. Any advice or guidance is welcome. Thanks
  20. Thank you for all your replies. Since the post I have enlarged my book collection, thanks for the suggestions. I agree with the comments regarding photos, some images are clearly for promotional purposes and the engines are spotless, the images of good trains working however seem to be as dirty as the 50s/60s. One bit of information I did gain is how the GWR lost many of it's Dean goods locos for the war effort, and had them replaced by 3fs's. A good exscuse to run something different
  21. Hi all, I'm looking for advice on the amount of weathering for stock around this date. I weathered my BR stock after looking at others and also images from the net so that was relatively easy to follow but images from the 30s are a lot harder. From my understanding the railways in this era were cleaner but dirt is inevatable, I guess the question I'm asking is how much dirt. For me weathering really brings a loco to life so would like to get this right as much as I can. Thanks
  22. Thanks to all for your contribution. I will take a look through these. Unfortunately for you knowledgable folk I will probably come back with a lot of questions
  23. Thanks Phil Do you know whether historic copies of these are available?
  24. Thanks once again for you insight. What is the sectional appendix?
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