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Mick Bonwick

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  1. Mick Bonwick
    The application of rusty areas is now finished. Some of the more obvious blobs of wash have been either removed or significantly diminished in appearance. Simple wiping with a damp (white spirit) rigger brush, holding the bristles as flat to the surface as possible, will achieve this. The model was left to dry for an hour or so (measured in coffee consumption at the rate of one every 30 minutes) and then given a generous coat of Testor's Dullcote from an aerosol can. This part of the process achieves two things - it protects the wash finish in subsequent stages and removes the high gloss shine of the paint finish.
     

     

    No masking was done. The whole model was covered.
  2. Mick Bonwick
    For some time now I have been meaning to have a go with a microbrush. I'm sure they've been on sale for years, and been used by thousands of modellers for all sorts of useful things, but I've never had a go. Until now. By applying a very small amount of wash from the tip of the rigger brush, I was able to just about colour the tiny bristles of the microbrush. The tip was then poked carefully at areas of the car where I thought rust would form. I have no photograph of a rusty SunbeamTalbot 90 to work from, so have guessed where the rust might form by recalling all the work I had to do when 'fixing' my own cars all those years ago. You can see where my guesswork placed the rust in this photograph, and if anybody knows that it's in the wrong place(s) then please let me know.
     

  3. Mick Bonwick
    This topic will use an AMMO by Mig wash, Africa Korps Wash A.MIG-1001. Why? Because I have some and it has a red tinge to it, which I thought would work on a green vehicle.
     
    The jar needed a good shaking and mixing before being applied because the pigment had separated from the carrier and there was a ridge of hardened paint around the inside of the lid. I obviously didn't heed my own advice the last time I used it, and didn't clean the top and rim before replacing the lid.
     
    Application was done with a rigger brush, allowing capillary action to take the wash into all of the panel join lines and along body creases. It looks a mess at this stage, but will be left for 15 to 20 minutes to dry, before the next stage.
     

  4. Mick Bonwick
    Another 1/43rd model, by Oxford Diecast.
     
    Back in the days when cars were cars and boys were boys, I spent my time car spotting. Trains had no interest for me, where I lived they were all green and electric. One of the cars I drooled over was the Sunbeam Talbot 90, and when Oxford Diecast brought out their model of it in 7mm scale, I just had to have one.
     
    This is what it looks like out of the box:
     

     
    This is what it will look like at the end:
     

  5. Mick Bonwick
    This splendid model will be the next topic.
     
    I have already tried to weather one of these but am not completely happy with the result, which can be seen below. 
     
    The next attempt will use the following products:
     
    Testor's Dullcote
    Lifecolor N Europe Dust
    Ammo by Mig Light Dust
    Railmatch Frame Dirt
    Railmatch Weathered Black
    MIG Productions Black Smoke
     
    The model will be depicted at a later stage in its life but still before TOPS.
     
     

     
  6. Mick Bonwick
    Yesterday (Sunday 28th April) I had the good fortune to visit the RMweb South West Area Group's Members' Day in Taunton. What a blast!
     
    During my early walkabout (I had a late one as well) I visited Lord & Butler's stand and found a JCB, all bright, shiny and yellow. I decided to use it as an example of what could be done with a few materials - Testor's Dullcote, MIG Productions Industrial City Dirt, MIG Productions Dark Mud and Railmatch Sleeper Grime. By the end of the day and after many enjoyable conversations that "interrupted" progress, a pasty and several pieces of cake:
     
     

  8. Mick Bonwick
    Modelling commitments for December are minimal (a bit of planning was involved), so there should be plenty of time to work on another subject. He said, confidently.
     
    One suggestion received involved a modern image van, VDA or similar, so I've found one in a box and will now look out for some suitable photographs to work from. There will be hundreds, if not thousands, on the Internet for me to investigate, so I'll just have to knuckle down and get to work on the keyboard.
     
    Just to add a little interest to this post, I'll include a photograph:
     

     
    A Hornby M7. Working on models with this level of detail is an absolute joy. Even the smallest amount of weathering 'stuff' can bring visual rewards.
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