MattB

Well I had a problem with my CANAC8C and CANACC8 test rig which after some help from the MERG forum I managed to get fixed, dodgy wire at fault and me probably programming it wrong. 6 stock trays are now built and all my rolling stock has being unpacked. Some needs quite a lot of cleaning after being in storage but since nothing is running yet its not the priority. Have built a couple of other MERG CBus Kits and now constructing the first CANSOL. The plan after that is to test it on my 3 foot layout which has two point motors connected already and not as complicated with the wiring as the main board. And also get used to the configuration setup. Test board is small enough to be located right next to the workbench and as its small its easy to move it around Have started with the DCC bus re-wire, this time I am having the microswitches from the PL15s point motors linked directly to the dcc bus rather than the track. At some point I need to unsolder the track wire connections. Also putting in a larger gauge wire for the main bus run. Bit of debate going on in my head at the moment for whether to use relays instead of the PL15 microswitches so bought a couple of 12V ones off ebay for a few quid so I can test that idea out on the test layout and link them up to the CANACC8. The only disadvantage I can see is that there would be a lot of wire going back and forth to the CANACC8. But eventually I want to use servos and relays for the rest of the layout so might test it out anyway. So anyway all this re-wiring and building up MERG CBUS kits (4 still to do) should take about 3 months I reckon and then the original layout should be fully re-wired and I can hoist it into place and rebuild the topside and get on with the baseboards for rest of the layout, plus the mimic panels.

On Bank Holiday Monday I made my first dividers for the stock drawers. Used 9mm ply for the ends and 3mm ply for the dividers. Measured the width between the slots as 45mm which enables enough room for me to get my fingers into the slot to pick up the stock. Haven't glued dividers in as they are tightly wedged (sprung) into the slots. Unpacked some Hornby stock some of which hasn't seen the light of day for a couple of years. Usefully I found that two Hornby coaches (the grouping sort) will fit into one slot but I cannot get two MK1, 2, 3 coaches in together. I have 9 slots in each drawer. I reckon I will need 5 drawers to take all my stock (but normally there would only be 3 in use at a time as rest of stock would be on the layout). Have 9 drawers so plenty of room for expansion! Also finished building my CANGizmo tester for my new layout control bus . Initially 1 of the LEDs didn't work (the white one) so I unsoldered it and put it back in again, tested it again and it worked. Ran full test and everything worked as in the instructions. This module is a standalone test module for network testing CBUS modules before one puts them in the main LCB. Started building the CANUSB4 so I can convert my CANACC8 and CANACE8C to FLiM mode. Next plan is to get some 22 gauge red and yellow wire (these are my DCC track bus colours) so I can start re-wiring the DCC bus under Baseboard 1 (currently wired with wrong diameter). The drop downs are ok and will remain but the bus itself as well as being the wrong gauge is a bit of a mess plus I want it to run closer to the front of the board so I can get the main feed wires from the controller to it neatly. Will probably use normal cable tie pads but glued on to underside of board as the sticky pad tends to come away. Once that's done will move onto the layout control bus which is more of a mess.

Its taken nearly 12 months since my last post, but finding out that the roof of our new house had been left structurally unsupported by the previous owners extension has taken a lot of time and worry to sort out. (according to professionals this is a really rare case and very unlucky) So for 12 months I was very stressed out while getting this fixed and couldn't even work easily on my favorite hobby to take my mind off things. The only projects I worked on over the winter was a 16mm kit bash and (MERG) CBUS kits that could be easily packed away and wouldn't cause much mess. However since Easter I now have a railway room !!!! Painted the room (I call it a room though legally its still a loft) at Easter. Its light grey walls and white ceiling to get British weather overcast ambiance. Bought a cork floor underlay 10mm thick and laid it. The idea is this stops noise from transmitting to the rooms below but also adds insulation (and nice to walk on). Tempted to use remaining roll to lay another 10mm on the floor in the operating area. So I now have embarked on two projects Project 1 - Cabinets and Baseboards Project 2 - CBUS and Re-wire Project 1 - I am using kitchen units as I want to have something for storing all by train stuff and the baseboards will go ontop. Im waiting on some nuts and bolts so I can bolt all the cabinets together, and the next task is to build up about 17 drawers of different sizes plus a few more units. I have found that the lowest kitchen drawer height nicely fits the 00 gauge stock with about 10mm clearance. I need to make up some storage slots from 3mm ply and glue them into these drawers to act as dividers. I have used AutoCAD to design my layout which incorporates the main board of the previous layout 'Mattington'. The layout isn't prototypical but I have based it off plans from railway books so that I have turnouts in the correct places where possible. The plan is to have four tracks round the room with a lift out section. 2 tracks DC and 2 tracks DCC. Separated by a vertical level difference. The DC circuit is at the rear and is mostly a simple tailchaser with very few turnouts. The DCC circuit is the one with a lot of shunting opportunities and lots of turnouts but also a tail chaser and somehow I need to fit in a fiddleyard but space is a bit limited so needs a bit more design. The plan is for baseboards to be modular and this is partly due to the size of the loft hatch which is just over 600mm square, (getting the existing board in was a tight squeeze on the diagonal). So I am using mostly using 600mm x 900mm size . The 900mm is the depth where I can just about reach the back, 600mm is the width which nicely fits on the cabinets. Project 2 - So last summer I found out about MERG and CBUS, reading into it it seemed a good idea to incorporate their modules. Since then I have built and tested 2 modules which will be used for the general lighting. Im not going into details here of how it all works but this is going to cut out about 90% of the wiring and offer massive benefits into how the layout can be controlled. I had a wiring jungle on the last layout something which I don't want to have again. So the plan is to re-wire the existing layout board and add several CBUS modules. All the point motors I can leave in place but will be disconnecting the LED panel wiring from the PECO points as it will be redundant due to the CANPAN talking directly to the CANSOL. The DCC wiring also needs upgrading as I have realised the bus wires are too thin so probably won't take the load for a larger layout. All the wiring needs a general tidy up anyway as its a hotch potch of 15 years of building. Currently the layout is on its side so I can easily sort this out. Last night I took the transport cover off the bottom of the board for the first time since it went into storage over 2 years ago. Will be using the exhibition board (3 x 1 foot) as a testbed for wiring and CBUS, plus locomotive testing. As the baseboards are modular im intending to wire them up first and then slot them in. Im using my vintage (1870) work desk for the first time this week. Soldering together a CBUS test unit, also was a good opportunity to try out my new magnifier / desk light which I am very pleased with. The photo shows the first 10 units, the layout on its side is going on the left side. The rear will be a steam loco shed and the right a second station / goods area. More units have just arrived to complete the square. Due to positioning in the room the loft hatch won't be in the middle of the layout so a lift out section next to the pink box will be needed. Access panel in floor at rear right - hence why units don't go up to the wall but baseboard overhangs.

Does anyone know if anybody stocks plastic wheel spokes for a Bachmann standard 4. The plastic has domed outwards and its fouling the coupling drive rods. I could superglue it back in and clamp if necessary but likely to pop out again at some point?

So here we are in 2020 stuck indoors. Back in January I was lucky to be able to move into a new house, complete with large loft space for 00 model railway purposes. I tell you something I am well glad I managed to move when I did because if I hadn't it would have been extremely depressing. That being said unfortunately the loft at present is unusable as it needs some structural work to make it habitable and for that I need a builder... The other problem is that 90% of my 00 rolling stock is unattainable as its with my parents over 100 miles away. Good news though is that all the 009 rolling stock is with me here and so are all the scenic items and models. I did have an idea to start working on a double 00 Inglenook layout on a small baseboard I have but it proved to be non - starter due to planning permission (no room to temporally store it (no furniture you see)) I haven't had planning permission granted yet for the G gauge..... So I am carrying on with this little layout since its the only thing I can operate and because its nearly complete I am having to think of new projects for it. I am one of the people able to work from home so I am only working on it on the occasional evening and weekend. Oh yeah another slight problem is that I only have about 10 different types of paint so colours are a bit limited. No spray paint either. I don't want to buy anything online at present. Couplings I have tried out Greenwich couplings but they didn't work as the loop is too small. My track radii is very tight. But I did see a layout online where somebody had used the loop and hook method successfully (loop at one end hook at the other end). Interestingly after a bit of experimenting I found that the minitrains stock with its wide loops and short wheelbase wagons works perfectly with no problems at all. and an older coupling that I made back in the nineties also seems to work so I can have a 'train' of about 6 wagons going round without any derailments. I am trying out a wider loop fixed onto the wagons and my blue diesel locomotive and so they don't stand out I am using green wire. A new diesel locomotive? I did have a small 3D printed steam tram which I painted but somehow over several months the whole of the plastic bodyshell warped into an angle and the side skirts snapped off. So I have a spare Kato 103 chassis with nothing for it. Rather than buy something online I think it would be more fun to construct something out of plasticard so I am looking at Java sugar cane locomotives as they are simple. I think I have a radiator grill somewhere that I could use and lots of light blue paint! Scenery Well the good news is that all the scenery that was in storage is now with me so basically I am planting lots of tufts all over the place and if I see a gap in the scatter it gets filled up. I found an old tree sprune that was short enough and applied some poly fibre to it and planted it. Crane Needs painting - well hopefully I have some paint that I can use and then will weather it with some weathering powder. Backscene and ballasting at rear Maybe a line of brick buildings and wood / corrugated and whatever I can build with spare scraps I have here. Something to hide the wood at the rear. Haven't yet done the ballasting along the rear (as too busy running trains) Lighting I have a bonfire kit, half wired up already but limited to where I can put the bonfire. 6 Wagon kits still to build and paint If I completely run out of stuff to do then I can get on with these. Various other small kits to build (and paint ) So anyway that should keep me going for a bit

So I’m in the process of moving house and want to get this layout on the way to looking complete. Spent an evening adding scenic grass, working on the platform and made a coal bunker. Platform scatter is experimental I’ve not used something this fine in this manner before. Waiting for it to dry before cleaning off excess. Also ran a loco round and round

I would like to put another cigar box for rolling stock storage in but unfortunately the engine shed roof, lamp posts and the crane would inhibit the box when the main lid is closed. Plus any trees which I keep meaning to add.... I must admit having a closed lid is a good thing as it means I keep the majority of the dust out. Currently adding platform edging setts and I am going to use up some of the lighter weathering powders to form a textured surface to get away from painted balsa wood appearance. Don't want to buy anything new for this layout so I am recycling items from the small scraps / bits box

Just a couple of photos of the stock storage area it’s a bit crammed in so I’m not making up any more rolling stock kits

Work continued today on the grass and ballast areas surrounding the track. Made the path, foot crossing to the station. A few fences and bushes added. Laid the base scatter and did some detail in the crane corner. Using bits out of the small bits box. Particularly pleased with scratchbuilt water bowser made out of some Hornby/ratio/wills spares and some wire. Started placing people about and found some bits of wall for making coal tip

Surprisingly I managed to get this engine working. Its very old and has a bit of corrosion on the motor housing, I dare not take it apart since it still works and squeaks a bit. Ive had it since the early nineties but I think its from the early seventies as its an old Egger-Bahn locomotive. Annoyingly the newer Minitrains loco has a burnt out motor or something similar as not making any movement on its motor contacts. If anyone knows where I can easily source a new motor apart for from the manufacturer I would welcome some help.

Got the jewelry latch fitted to the cigar box and it holds everything in when the box is closed so very pleased with that. Picked up the latch from the squires tools stall at the weekend. The layout has much more space now than previously now all the rolling stock is out of the way. Back to working on the loco shed now I can get to it!

So over the last couple of weeks work on the scenery continued. I had a chat with one of the people on Skytrex stand at Warley who gave me some painting tips for the crane so this can now be progressed. One of the difficulties I have been having is space with the stock that I have built because when purchased it was on a flat sprune but when built it takes up more space. So I had the idea of installing an old cigar box in the lid of the bigger box for somewhere to store the rolling stock when not in use. I had to work out where tall scenery wouldn't inhibit it and that meant the switchpanel and other electrics had to move about. Have yet to install the latch (a jewelry box type) so the door and the all the stock doesn't fall out. Essentially everything will be resting on the cigar box lid once the main is closed. I decided to use up all the remaining resin water and hardener which makes the stream / pond look much better. I have forgotten to add some plaster cloth on the left side. I have put in a few more fences (I have actually done the bridge fence out of wire but not shown on these photos). Other base scenery scatter has been laid.

Work on the layout this week included building a white metal crane kit. Fairly simple in construction I need to shorten the handle on the other side so it can freely pivot around. Going to have some small crates and boxes on this corner. Still have to paint the paving blocks.

Ok so I had my first ever attempt at using scenic water. I lined the edge with mud scatter and some green. I think the result isn't too bad (the photo doesn't do it justice), maybe next time I will try some colouring. Its about 1.5mm deep. Brown paint on the edges will eventually be covered with thick scatter and scrub. Thanks for the suggestion of a weir wall, its down the end under the railway bridge.

So I spent a few hours over the weekend doing a few items on the layout. I 'dug out' the offending plastercloth and tried to form a slightly deeper base for the pond / stream I painted the stream / pond area a different shade of brown and then added some green shades I painted the road areas with their first coat but need to return to the slope bit round the side of the building with some polyfiller I built a small plank footbridge using a coffee stirrer purloined from work. (Note one of the posts uprights is supposed to be on an angle - its meant to be ricketty) I built a small jetty (for fishing off) made from some bits of fence and matchstick. I added some post and rail fence to the bottom right corner. It finally stopped raining so I could get out in the garden and do the soldering (not allowed fumes in the house). Track all working again I tested with a train and it worked. Even better the new Greenwhich couplings didn't cause any derailments so I ran two Dundas kit builds behind my Joeff HOe engine (for the first time with no problems ) For some reason the lights all started working again! I started the walls around the end of the culvert to the left of the pond.

Now thats a good idea - John new. Will be putting one of those in also to help hold the water mix in

Can anyone spot the mistake I made with the pond area! - A bit of replastering will be needed, that or remove the plastercloth back down to the bottom deck baseboard, followed by repainting. Pity Ive run out of brown paint.

So I managed to fit in an evening of working on the model railway, jobs completed included putting brass plaque on the front of the box with the layouts name, painting the earth areas and the base coat for the water area. Started working on the ballast using some light brown / light grey mix and did some of the landscape scenery on one corner. Made a change from doing the wiring. Waiting for a dry evening so I can get the two wires soldered up feeding the bridge part of the layout after moving the track over slightly. Two lamps have stopped working annoyingly and the problem would be in the baseboard frame which is difficult to get to. Might have to run some strips round to get this to work.

450mm along the front and 370mm going back.

I have been having quite a few problems with the radius of the back right corner which I put in a little to tight. The small 0-4-0 engines go round it fine but wagons were uncoupling and derailing. I am experimenting with a variety of different coupling types 'hand made hook and loop, chains, standard NEM couplings, greenwich couplings. Eventually I decided to take this corner up and cut a bit of it and try to make it more of a curve. To do this I took the sleepers out so I could bend it tightly. Part of this area is on a level crossing (I cannot fit in a road bridge) so sleepers will be hidden. Hook and loop, chain worked, Greenwich couplings struggled (partly due to having them at varying heights) but some older standard couplings did make it round ok and so did the the minitrains stock. All in all worth taking up and putting back down again

Worked the plastercloth into the stream / pond area to get it ready for painting. Built up the ground on the front right

Work on the landscape started. Used mesh that I had spare from somewhere, normally would use chicken wire but holes were too big for this application. Used plastercloth to build up the landscape. Work on the house at the rear continued with more painting. Work on the loco shed at the rear continued but might rebuild it as forgot to add the sloping wall for the roof.

Work on the track started in the spring. Used small pins to keep it in place. Note I don't possess a work bench and everything has to put away when not being worked on - hence quite a bit of mess on the layout.

With the wiring 95% complete it was time to start working on the landscaping. I might have made the pond and outlet stream a little too large so might put a bit more balsa wood in and re landscape the plastercloth which will give me more room and less water. All I want in the pond is a small jetty, rowing boat and someone fishing. Small bridge over the stream and a wilderness in the right hand corner filled with odd bits of junk (possibly an abandoned wagon or two). The building at the rear is nearly finished and I only need to add the gable ends, gutters and windows plus do a bit more painting. Decided to build a low relief of a loco shed entrance on the back left, track doesn't connect up as too tight for points. Decided to add a crane and a wagon turntable on front left, note that track won't connect up as too tight for points

So continuing with the wiring. - Winter 2018/2019 I had posted a query on the forum about an AC/DC converter unit and someone suggested making a rectifier. Not made one before and it took an evening of working out which way round the diode had to go and soldering it all up in the shed at the bottom of the garden. Good chance to test out the new adjustable temperature iron something which I have wanted since getting in to my head that I want to start making brass etch and whitemetal kits. Tested it out on a grain of wheat bulb and it worked first time Then continued with the wiring of the lights. Some people might be wondering why I can't do that at the end and its because of limited depth in the box itself. I have had to build the wiring into the frame as I can't bring it in underneath. I can't put the track down yet because the third level isn't constructed, I can't put the third level in because the wiring isn't in. Normally for the lights I would send in two feed wires and then have a terminal block splitter with the resistors for the lights near the lights themselves. In this case I want to have easy access to the resistors in case they go wrong or become unsoldered so I am going to add them to the tag strip at the top of the lid. All the lights will run off one switch after going through the rectifier. I made two cutouts for the point motors in case they become unsoldered or need replacing. The track wires are now in - Three sections (6 wires). Waiting for the lights to arrive in the post 2 short lamp-posts for platforms, 1 normal size lampost and one bonfire (without smoke) Tested the point motors ones a bit temperamental it does slide but only occasionally or if I give it a helping hand. Possibly a problem with the spring. Could swap round but might perserver with it at the moment