Geoff Cook

Empty another bottle and it'll comes with numbers

The turnouts could go further left and be arranged as a tandem would probably keep the sidings the same lenght

just a thought

3 hours ago, Mark Forrest said:

So far, so good.  Didn't burn my fingers or set anything on fire.

 

Decided I'd try with the wire soldered underneath the rail, possibly a little less solder needed next time?

After a bit of clean up:

 

I'm impressed by how strong the joint is, I've pulled on the wire with enough force to bend the rail and the wire hasn't moved at all.

Mark 

Just found this topic

with regards the amount of solder required, put on the joint solder the size of a pin head it goes a long way

Geoff

1 hour ago, Indomitable026 said:

arrrggghhhh.

 

I’m so scruffy - I mean - how many people have to go along the top of the board with a chisel first to take off spilt glue/ paint or whatever, before laying track!

 

It’s because I’ve been using the front of the board to work on. Well now it’s time to lay the front Rose Street curve so I need to clear this area.

 

First job is removing the webs from the sleepers, I do one side only first. Thread rail and then stick down. The second rail is then added and finally removing the remaining webs. It’s a balance - you obviously need the web to space the sleepers - but they are harder to cut out when the rails in place.

 

WHY remove the spacers, your just making the job that much harder

do it on bends if necassery     

the ballast should cover them, see BCB

Geoff

6 hours ago, Indomitable026 said:

I know you’ve told me this before, but what type of wire and needles and where from?

 

 

0.4mm nickel silver wire from Eileens

needle

21 gauge 40 mm length colour green

Box 100 £2.70

 Terumo Agani Sterile Needle 21G | Sterile Needles | MediSupplies

2 hours ago, Indomitable026 said:

I think the last time I did this method was when we built New Haden Colliery and we built our own, many years ago. I’ve clearly forgotten, but now I think about it - it’s droppers on first and then offer up the tubes and slide actuator from below? I seem to recall we were using some form of wire insulation because the actuators were made out of brass?

 

It’s all a bit blurred!

Yes, and they still work, although they are all fitted with servo's

Geoff

Just wondering when your going back to point construction and wondering why you have fitted the tortoise plates being the operating wires from the blades are not fitted yet, so you wont know exactly were they will be.

I used a surgical needles for the piece of tube 21 gauge and 0.4mm wire

Geoff

cleavage night

1 hour ago, Indomitable026 said:

re-wheeled?
 

If you call pulling out the OO wheels so it balances on the P4 track for the sake of a photograph, then yes...

 

There appears to be enough room for P4 wheels, the outer ones are pin point and the middle set on some sort of sliding arrangement.

 

The model captures the original although not the highest of fidelity models.

 

I suppose I need another one 

Sliding arrangement to allow the vehicle to go around corners, the slide keeps the centre wheels to gauge

A six wheel rigid would derail on the slightest bend

another way is to remove the wheel rims on the centre axle only

geoff

The first picture above shows the crossing, on the right hand end of the wing rail the fitted chair  by the joint is shown with the key nearest the joint ,it should be facing away from the joint so the fishplate can fit in between the two chairs that make the joint between the wingrail and closure rail

On the real railway you wouldn't be able to fit the key in the position you have it in.

geoff

1 hour ago, Indomitable026 said:

Oh heck

 

That took me ages to spot....

that's because I said x8 when its location is x1

1 hour ago, Indomitable026 said:

The Mint’s rocked up - 

 

 

Good news - it fits on the track I’ve already built.

 

Phew

Oops chair on x8

Damian

Have you had a look at your signature, for the picture if its their you should be able to delete it

48 minutes ago, Indomitable026 said:

Most things are not in my control - this is one of them.

Are you sure about that

8 minutes ago, Indomitable026 said:

 

Cheek.

 

They’re the lightest boards I’ve ever built - it’s what gets added later that causes the issues....

 tell me about it, NHC boards mite need a balance weight. 

Stu that's what it was originally like, if you look at the end of the boards in the last photo you can see that they would interlock which is ok if their are two of you loading the boards, they need to be placed exactly in the right position, if not in the right position their is the possibility of damaging the lower board 

The beams have the advantage that you can place the board on the beam and slide it into position which can be done by one person

Geoff

2 hours ago, Indomitable026 said:

 

 

 

A half pounder with cheese, no onions and wimpy special sauce

 

 

Devine and really took me back to the good old days...

 

You mean when the back seat of your car was covered in empty wimpy cartons

19 minutes ago, Indomitable026 said:

2nd stockrail in place and I’ve also cut the sleepers for the adjoining point.

 

 

I need to cut the slot out for the switchblade droppers before I stick these down.

Just drill two holes, one by each stock rail rather than cutting slots

Their is a limit of 300 messages across all the folders, when in messages click the inbox arrow and it will show you what you have got in each folder you have

Do they engrave the glasses like they do for best layout, Iv'e only got one

More sensible in the current climate

If it keeps him quite, that's good isn't it

Geoff

Er?

 

Nope.

 

A scrap yard maybe...

Or Teddy Grays sweet factory

Geoff

2/3 of downstairs done...still painting

You could get a decorator in to do it for you, although that will cost, ive just had a quote to do two bedrooms one painted the other papered just a small amount of £1900 required

Geoff