scratcher

Funny but I was looking at my one yesterday and wondering whether to have a go at removing it. My period is late 1930s and I believe they were fitted from 1942 onwards. The problem is not so much the removal of the top feed itself, but the piping that runs along the top of the tanks then down the side.

B2 finally complete, just need to add glazing for cab front windows. Lining by Ian Rathbone, except boiler bands (Fox) and the lining around the nameplates. Numbers and letters are also Fox, they look a bit oversized so some toning down needed. Nameplates by Modelmaster.

I posted to this thread last year, about problems I had with the Dean Goods sticking once per revolution when running very slow. After having to return 3, I gave up on buying mail order and waited for one to appear reasonably local to me at an ok price. So I went to The Model Shop in Frome on Saturday, to see if the one they were advertising on ebay had the same problem. They were kind enough to get out a test track and give it a go, and I am pleased to report that it ran fine. I bought it, and so far after some running in for a few hours, it is still behaving. Fingers crossed.

Added brake gear, the prominent steam pipe that runs under the chassis, sand pipes and the small steam pipes that exhaust under the cab steps. The leading brake shoes are not attached at the top, as the chassis sides do not extend far enough. The under-chassis steam pipe is removable so I can get at the grub screw holding the gear to the axle, and slightly off-centre to avoid the gear teeth.

Correct, post-1928 so large letters on tender & large numbers on cabside (and also dictates the various boiler fitments). I will be using Fox Transfers for the letters & numbers, currently debating whether to use transfers for the black/white lining or to get it hand-lined. If you look further back up this thread to the last pictures of the A5, you'll see what the brakes look like on that. I intend to do same for the B2. Specifically, obtain two plastic chassis base plates from the Bachmann D11 (available as a spare from Bachmann), cut off the brake shoes, attach them at the top to 0.7mm wire hangers attached to the chassis, and at the bottom to Mainly Trains brake rodding. The plastic shoes ensure no shorting. It was reasonably straightforward with the A5 as the chassis had 0.7mm holes pre-drilled in the right place. The B2 has no such holes, the chassis sides are just brass rectangles, and don't extend far enough at one end. It's my next job so I'll post back here when I have worked something out. The front bogie is also from a Bachmann D11 spare but needed two springs as the B2 is a heavy old lump. The backhead was a donation from the G-Train Locomotive Works / Graeme King Joint Venture that is creating B3 and B7 kits. Rest of the cab is scratchbuilt, apart from the screw reverser. The tender is standard GCR type and is a Bachmann J11 spare. This is handy as it means it's DCC-ready and has pick ups. I have the loco so I can either run it picking up on its own or also from the tender, by adding a couple of connectors into the wiring. Useful when still under construction. Motor is Mashima and gearbox is Branch Lines. It runs really nicely but is slightly under-powered, I should have gone for the next motor up.

The Sam Fay was on hold while I got used to spraying with an air brush. A lot to learn but definitely worth the effort.

I bought the Fox version, and have replaced the A5's transfers with those. Looks much better.

Thanks Pete. I've been unable to find a H33 picture post-1934 but prior to getting the sliding window vents. The ones in Russell Appx Vol 2 (Figs 199-201) are all with sliding vents. I'd assumed roller blinds as you say, and in keeping with other diagrams in Russell, but then I noticed Fig 193 which shows the official photo of one of the H30/1/2 articulated sets (also built in 1925) after shopping in 1934. It has original windows and curtains. Given H33 is same age, it seemed reasonable to assume a mid-1930s shopping at which point it may have acquired curtains? It is of course easier not to fit curtains

A question on curtains prior to the Mk 1 style window replacements. Would the curtain rail have been between the main window and the pair of openers, or above the openers? If it was above then it would interfere with the opening .... ? I also noted when at GWS Didcot last weekend that when viewing coach curtains from the outside, the most visible part is the backing material, usually I would guess in some kind of cream/fawn colour, and not the main material.

Over a year's delay whilst I built some loco kits but finally got back to the H33 upgrade (see p23). Underframe, bogies and ends from a new Hornby Collett. Gas tanks and 3rd battery box added. Roof detailed filed off, vent opened out. Rain gutters added. 4th kitchen window part-filled. Grab rails sanded off. Moulded door edges sanded off and scribed instead. Light spray with primer has revealed quite a bit more sanding is needed. As far as the interior goes, I will be adding table lamps in 1st class and also curtains tyo 1st & 3rd as these seem to have been added to coaches being refurbished from about 1934 onwards, according to the pictures in Russell Appendix 2 of the various diagrams, and my period is late 1930s. (Any advice on that welcomed).

Does anyone have or know of any pictures of the road side of the station building, or any close-ups of the large goods shed? Thanks Steve

Thanks Innerhome. The low resolution image on the SRS website from 1949 is what I need.

Thanks Keefer that is exactly what I need. As Innerhome correctly says, the layout was the same in the 1930s.

Does anybody have access to the track plan for West Wycombe in the 1930s please? In the original edition of Stanley Jenkins book, it was one of the few track plans not included, and I've been unable to find it elsewhere. Thanks, Steve

Sometimes when you notice a problem, you just have to fix it. Some careful cutting down enabled the height of the smokebox saddle to be reduced by just enough to allow a more characteristic bottom to the smokebox to be made from plasticard and filler. It now looks more like a Robinson loco.

Mick what make of transfers did you use?

The B2 upper works completed and etch primed, except for the roof rainstrips. The back head was kindly donated by the B3 project, the rest of the footplate was built from scratch (needs regulator adding). The main problem with the kit is that the boiler sits about 2mm too low. In retrospect maybe I should have tried to address that but it would have involved filling in a resulting gap between boiler and splasher top.

I've been impressed with Bachmann spares dept. I've sourced several parts from their D11 and J11 models for use when building other GCR loco kits.

Next up is a K's B2. Slow work as the body has taken a lot of fettling to get right. I'll be using the tender off a Bachmann J11, and the trick with the Bachmann front bogie as per the A5.

Finally finished off the A5. Halfords Satin Black used for the top coat. Red lining and bufferbeams by Ian Rathbone. Transfers from Modelmaster, which look good but perhaps the letters / numbers are slightly narrower than prototype? For the brakes I obtained two plastic chassis base plates from the Bachmann D11, cut off the brakes shoes and attached them at the top to 0.7mm wire hangers attached to the chassis, and at the bottom to Mainly Trains brake rodding. There is very little clearance between the wheels, and plastic shoes ensure no shorting. The camera has made the dome look a bit askew but it looks fine in reality.

Thanks Khris I have ordered a copy. Steve

Dave, is the 12 wheel driving trailer a kit or a convert or scratchbuilt? One of these was in use in the Aylesbury area in the 1920's & 30's which is my area of interest.

Update. Have received a replacement and it's been running fine with the Gaugemaster D for a couple of weeks. I reckon the original problem was some component in the loco being sensitive to whatever the H&M was sending out, and becoming damaged.

I use Switch Cleaning Lubricant eg Servisol which is great at getting rid of old oil. Spray it on and let it evaporate.

I spoke to Hornby Technical Dept who were not aware of any problem like this. As this is now two of these locos that have shown the behaviour, I think I'll return it for a replacement and hope for 3rd time lucky.