riscosuser

Do you still need instructions?

The basic scenery's done. Time to do the base.

My issue with solenoid point motors is exactly that they can damage the point. With copper clad points I want to stress them as little as possible. Cost is also an issue, I've again got a target of under £10.00, for this cakebox, not including stock. Peco point motors are about £6.00, Tortoise style motors £10-£18. This homemade servo type under £2.00. I've not costed the 3D print but this should be pence If you wish you can use servo type with a resistor and use a simple dpdt switch this means the motor is powered all the time but the resistor drops most of the power. Not ideal but simple. I intend to use an Arduino, the micro version cost about £2.00 and will control up to 17 servos! Space wise unit is 45mm wide x 38 deep x 28mm Height, not including linkage wire. I need to get thinner piano wire going to try 0.7mm . Thinner wire equals less stress on the point. I am going to ft these under the board, had originally allowed 1" so just need to reset the gate on the saw Linkage wire on these servos works exactly the same way as Cobalt slow speed motors in that the wire flexes. Generally, if you are using sprung points (i.e. Peco) best to remove the spring.

Some second-hand ceiling tile and the basic form is done. I'm, going to fit the base, point motors and do the basic scenery before enclosing the track at the rear.

Thought I'd show one of the completed servo point motors. The main cost is the servo, this means including small parts & the 3D printing cost per point motor is under £2.00. Much cheaper than commercial offerings.

Well, that's the servo bases printed. Only need three but it was just as easy to do 3 of each (LH & RH). Just need to build them up now. First time I've done these so need to check clearances they need to fit under the board.

Had a bit of a modelling gap. Hence lack of updates. Completed the points and then did a test run. All OK. I found the hard way that the PVA I used was water soluble after I used acrylic as a base colour. So I cleaned everything off and sprayed the base with grey primer. I then used solvent adhesive to secure the track painting visible sleepers and track. Next the scenery!

I've got a weakness for Narrow gauge, Dual gauge even better! really nice.

Getting quite close now, I have done the signs. I've pretty much decided not to fit a gas lamp in (It was going to be on the corner with the fencing). Wondering whether to fit the owl and dome in? The tree at the back of the station had an owl in the original Emett drawing. Only place really is to make an Emett style platform / crows nest on top of bare tree (That is used as a handle). Any thoughts appriciated.

The found track, I suspect is approx 20 years old. I built a rabbit layout for the kids when they were small. I think this section may have been a "sword" I literally dug it up. Bent, twisted and much of the sleeper webbing damaged. I'm noticing the corrosion is flaking off in places, so much for external weathering! Minimum internal radius is 2", basic testing has confirmed the Tomytec chassis is the correct choice over the Kato.

Your wish is my command or at least a couple of nights work. I still need to do the points, Going to use a pivot point as I can't see any other way to do it.

After trying to get my head around templot2 (and failing). Ended up going old school, paper, compass and ruler. Initial layout. Found a length of n gauge track while gardening ...so may not need to weather! It is wrecked but is donating its rail.

Not 100 % sure, thinking of bar and pin.

Middle loco is actually a MGM Lister, this is the one with the Kato 103 chassis. The A1 models to the left uses the Tomytec Hm-01 chassis. Had a quick walk around the engine & carriage sheds at Ravenglass saw this Lister, which could be used as a basis for the model.

Took a picture to show the difference between the two chassis. Hm-01 to the left 16mm between centres. Kato 103 centre 28mm between centres. (N.B. chassis are not fixed in at the moment)

Lessons learnt from the last one, made myself a set of curve templates from the base of an old cd-drive. Simply made using a nibbler then smoothing the edge off on my bench sander.

I was originally looking at something based on a Kato 103 chassis. However A1 models do a kit based on the Tomytec HM-01 chassis this has a much smaller wheelbase. So I've got 2 of these. I've gone for the Minimum Gauge Models estate flat trucks, these are almost solid brass when built. I've built one, one to build and I think I will need 2 more. I'm going to use Kato wheels which means modifying the MGM chassis or doing my own. (the axles are shorter than Pecos).

I've done a rough plan, the slightly scary bit being the nominal 2" points. Goes without saying this will be all copper-clad construction. This is more of a proof of concept I'm already thinking of adding more curves. The passing loop will be hidden inside the mine.

I think the rear centre can be considered mostly finished. The picture shows the crates housing the PWM control and the socket inside the milk churn.

Ever feel you are being goaded into doing projects? With Maderia Meadows it was all about what can you fit into a mere 64 sq inches. Hence a circle of Gn15 track. With this new project, the conversation went, "But you can only fit a circle of track in"!! So with this project, I'm looking to fit in a passing loop and a siding. Since I'm a member of the 7mmNGA, seems 7mm scale is the way to go on this one. I've had to go for 09 just to get everything in. A little bit of planning on this one. Stage one build the track & test. Then build the scenery around it. Stage 2 will be an Arduino project to control/animate the layout.

I had wondered how to disguise the control. So I built two custom crates from coffee stirrers I've now fitted the PWM board into the bottom crate, the second will sit on top. To disguise the charging socket I've fitted the reclaimed socket inside a milk churn. The picture shows the parts.

Been asked a few times off forum about the size of the Pulse Width Modulation module used in this project. So before it's cased, here is a picture with a 50P and the Li-ion batteries with the added current control.

Bit of a gap as I've not been too well. I've completed two crates to mount the PWM controller inside. I'm looking to tidy and finish it this week. Will post some more pictures.

Those are not mine. There is an article on Dave & Shirley Rowe in this months BRM. Did take pictures though. Hope these are OK.

I took it down to Doncaster on Saturday. Confirmed it fit's into a cake box. it then sat running on the BRM stand for over 7 hours, so I think it's fair to say it's reliable. The "removal from the cake box" handle raised a few smiles. Was told get a move on and finish it.