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vitalspark

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Posts posted by vitalspark

  1. I've been looking for the 3mm Spratt & Winkle couplings for some time. Does anyone know where they can be obtained?

     

    As already posted Andrew at Wizard Models has them.

     

    Make sure you buy the 3mm and not the 4mm as they are monstrosities..the 3mm however if fitted using the mounting plates and loops with one hook per wagon can be a very effective and neater replacement for tension locks.

     

    A home made jig is essential to turn them out quickly and uniformly plus height gauge for wagons too ensure they all match perfectly.

     

    Pick your most common wagons that have the lowest underfloor height..we settled on Bachman..and then just araldite the mounting plate directly under the drawbar.

     

    Any other wagons that might be slightly higher to the underfloor is a simple matter of adjusting with plasticard shim.

     

    Three links from the one hook with the last one being iron to attract the uncoupling magnet and you are complete.

     

    A Bill Bedford wire bending jig is a cheap and essential tool to turn out identical loops.

     

     

    The S&Ws propel on the indent on the top of the hook and act on the opposing bar and you will find you can propel long rakes over crossovers with much less chance of buffer lock or derailment than with tension lock.

     

    Also theres much nonsense talked about 3mm couplings not being able to negotiate tighter curves..with a single hook and bar set up this is not an issue.

     

    Cost wise It also means the hook fret goes twice as far. 

     

    Bill Bedford wire bending jig for the two loops.

    post-2371-0-90886300-1527028982_thumb.jpg

     

    Dave.

    • Like 1
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  2.            Putting on my pedant's hat and writing under correction from the more knowledgeable modelers who subscribe to this thread,  in regard to  the third & lowest photo., and if I u'stood. matters concerning 'XP.' stock correctly, they were vacuum-braked and fitted with screw-couplings?

      Pray advise.

     

            :locomotive:

     

    You are correct as regards the stock however the Caley station pilot has both vacuum and Washinhoose brakes and of course apart from the aforementioned 'bar' coupling it also retains the hook on the buffer beam..for the odd screw which its still partial to.

     

    Dave.

  3. We have a mix of couplings on Alloa using 3 link on mineral rakes that are rarely split Kaydees on the likes of Bachmann dmus to close couple and also on coaching with a medium/short combination usually working best but we also still have a large number of tension lock fitted stock however they are the smallest types and confined to wagons within the trains.

    We are currently working through these to replace with scale alternatives but until then the simple rule of never allowing a tension lock to be fitted to the rear of a coach or brakevan and never on locos works well.

    We also use 3mm S&W which are much finer especially if fitted with the hook at one end only as apart from more reliable auto uncoupling it means there is always one chain hanging between wagons and not two! 

     

    Hornby close coupled with mixed length Kaydees simply plugged in to the nem pockets.

    post-2371-0-21494600-1526952693_thumb.jpg

     

    Spratt & Winkle 3mm couplings on 4mm stock and hook at one end only.

    post-2371-0-26194600-1526952735_thumb.jpg

     

    Once blackened and viewed from normal operating angle quite discreet and streets ahead of tension lock both in appearance and operation and of course with a 3 link chain hanging from each wagon.

    Cheap and easy to fit too.

    post-2371-0-36777300-1526952751_thumb.jpg

     

    Dave.

    • Like 8
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  4. With regard to the problem shown in the 3 pictures in post #11 I would like to say that I too have had that problem before.

     

    My answer to remedy the problem was to bend the rod outwards using long nose pliers so that it clears the leading wheel nut on both sides.

     

    The bend needs to be as close as possible to the slide bars without interference to either part.

     

    I have done this on my Gresley locos and an LMS 8F chassis ( I know that chassis is not correct but I'm not fussed ) that I used to create a P1 type loco.

     

    Anyway back to the problem, I have to say that since I did the bends on the cylinder rod on the locos that needed it done that I have not had any further incidents of rods bent by wheel nuts 

     

    Common problem on Hornby locos due to too much side play on the leading drivers to allow for trainset curves.

     

    Black plasticard down behind the wheels glued to the frames limits the sideplay and should stop this happening.

     

    Simple and obviously cheap fix of course it means it will  not got round curves more suitable to a dockyard but then the real thing would be having problems there too.

     

    Dave.

    • Like 1
  5. Will you be fitting the detail parts Rob? The front steps  and AWS bang plate both help to fill the otherwise rather empty looking front end. 

     

     

    Its probably the easiest mod to do but remember some decent coal in the tender too!

     

    Add a bit of weathering and you have a model to rival the kit built versions.

     

    post-2371-0-78649900-1523385708_thumb.jpg

     

    post-2371-0-38855100-1523385553_thumb.jpg

     

    Dave.

    • Like 4
  6. Yes, Timken rollers but they had different covers if they were oil or grease lubricated

     

     

    Most interesting and glad to learn of this.

     

    Thanks for the info.

     

    Dave. 

  7. Interesting photo! I appreciate that this a rivet counter's moment, but the axlebox cover on the trailing truck is of an oil lubricated one but those on the tender are grease lubricated. The latter didn't come into use until 1961. Many Britannias were scrapped in this condition but I can't say for the Clans; the only ones I ever saw were on the scrap line at Kingmore.

    Thats interesting as I thought the bearings should be Timken roller but I'll check with the RCTS book.

     

    Dave.

  8. It certainly does....what did you use for it?

     

    Wet and dry paper folded and shaped then superglued on then splash of matt black paint and powders.

     

    Takes about ten minutes and costs nothing.

     

    I've seen black cartridge paper used also but I prefer a fine wet & dry as it keeps its shape well.

     

    Scribed on one side with a blade and then folded concertina style..about 12 folds from memory.

     

    Pinch one end between pliers and a touch of glue to form the screen then bend it to a curve at same end to follow tender frame.

     

    Another spot of glue and stick on to tender then trim to length. 

     

    Dave.

  9. Finished!!!!

    attachicon.gif72007 & D100.jpg

     

    attachicon.gifDriver Waves to local lads.jpg

     

    Thanks Roomey for another excellent weathering job!!!!icon_clap.gificon_clap.gif Also removed the small intermediate buffers to allow close coupling.

     

     

    Nice job but after all the skilled work in weathering I would also consider fitting the characteristic draught screens to close the tender gap.

    Its an easy fix and compliments a good weathering job.

    I have two Clans and a Brit fitted with them and it makes a difference.

     

    post-2371-0-39442500-1522593957_thumb.jpg

     

    Dave.

    • Like 6
  10. Hi Dave

     

    I was thinking on the lines of an Aifix/Dapol body, with a new boiler and Kemilway or Branchlines chassis, if they are still available.

     

    I think the work involved almost amounts to scratchbuilding.

     

    Yes it will be a lot of work but hopefully worth it in the end.

     

    I have a Kemilway chassis which includes the tender chassis as the motor is mounted within and drives via cardan shaft to the loco.

     

    No issues with the boiler and clearances and daylight where daylight should be but it's an involved kit and will it ever get built..??..who knows.

     

    Dave.

  11. Great to see the AMRSS  'Modelrail Scotland' take third place in the BRM best Model Railway exhibition poll.

     

    Warley was top of the pile with The London Festival of Model railways second and congratulations to them both but after Birmingham and London Glasgow was next.

     

    A well deserved award for Modelrail Scotland which goes from strength to strength each year and a big thank you to all who voted and to the major retailers and traders who support this top event.

     

    Show attractions like the AMRSS/Bachmann Limited edition 47/7 plus the choice of Glasgow by Rails and TMC to announce their forthcoming new commissions also endorse this shows popularity.

     

    Well done to all concerned.

     

    post-2371-0-91800900-1519697652.jpg

     

    Dave.

  12. Just in and everything ready to go.

     

    Some very nice layouts on show and some extremely nice examples visiting from south of the border with Newhaven Harbour and Canada Street amongst my personal favourites.

     

    Weather is great and we have the announcements from TMC and Rails to look forward to in addition to the Scotrail 47/7s going on sale.

     

    Another great show.

     

    Dave. 

    • Like 2
  13.  

    No but that doesn't help Dave...

     

    Perhaps Modelu are producing a set of these, heading along (any) Scottish platform on their way to Glasgow Airport;

     

    8247919536_76aaec7226_b.jpg

    Caledonian Girl`s by takoyaki 77, on Flickr

     

    I remember that warm sunny day - honest.

     

    Now that would be a great idea.

     

    I could think of a certain Crail based committee member of Modelrail who would buy a few sets of these!  

     

    ..and where do you dig up all these old ads Porcy..you really need to get out more. 

     

    Dave.

    • Like 1
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