ScRSG

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Could it be that many exhibition layouts now under construction will never see completion? Or layouts having only just started on the circuit in the last 12 months might never be seen again?

I think that it may well be the case that this could happen, so perhaps we all have to think in a different way. 

We, also, are fortunate in having a permanent place for both our Alloa layout and our newest club layout of Larbert http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106627-larbert/ , so we can continue to enjoy the building of it, which is surely also a part of our hobby?

As regards letting others enjoy our efforts then we can always use the thread on here, and also, perhaps use Youtube and as noted above by others to have invitations for visitors to come to us. Before lockdown we had arranged a visit by another group to come and visit and were expecting around 40, but inevitably this had to be cancelled due to the restrictions but we would hope that, eventually, we may be able to hold such visits again.

Always a shop I visited when holidaying in Devon, and would have been there this year apart from the obvious problems with a certain virus causing our holiday plans to be cancelled. Wish them all the best in their retirement.

To go back to the V2's for a moment, what was the conclusion regarding using drills on the 3D prints? Is it very slow with a hand held pin vice or very fast with, say, a Dremel type drill? 

Chas

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

 

Roy Jackson got over the problem of getting big locos with Cartazzi rear trucks round tighter curves by making them effectively 2-6-0s or 4-6-0s. He didn't bother with any trailing wheels!

On all the visits I made to the home of Retford, I never noticed this!

2 hours ago, t-b-g said:

We had similar problems with a number of H & M Walkabouts. A friend who knows more about this sort of thing than I do worked out that it was a transistor that had blown and as it was a type that was readily available, a repair should be a quick job. Sadly, he passed away a while ago, so I can't ask him the details now but if you know anybody who understands such things, you may be able to have a repair done.

Do remember that Gaugemaster have (had?) a lifetime guarantee on their controllers.

Sorry, misread you were using H&M walkabouts!!!

11 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

Mike’s resin version looks superb, as did Graeme King’s before, but they’re not going to be cost effective

Starting from scratch maybe, but it is if you already have Comet chassis built underneath the old Bachman body.

Sorry, Mike, just discovered I would like three rather than two for Comet chassis please. Thanks.

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Chas,

 

They look excellent.

 

Interesting motive power as well. Have we had an Austerity 2-10-0 on Wright Writes before? A DJH kit? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Yes, a DJH kit and a necessary class for our part of the world. The kit is excellent and the chassis goes together a dream with Markits WD wheels. Another appears regularly on Alloa.

Chas

57 minutes ago, spamcan61 said:

I do wonder where the heck they're finding this continual stream of new/old stuff - the N15 I've just ordered was released in 2008! Sorely tempted by a class 56 - not to run on the the same layout at the same time mind you. honest guv.

If you have ever visited their shop you will know why - it is a veritable Alladin's cave!

8 minutes ago, Headstock said:

 

Afternoon Tony,

 

the quick drawing below should explain. The Bachmann running board and boiler is the original model.

 

So, how would this affect Mike's body moulding? Tony W seems to have got it to fit OK without, as he suggests, the loco being too high. 

As an aside, Mike, is it your intention to incorporate Tony's modifications into your model to allow the Comet frames to fit without their modification?

A couple for me too, to fit already made Comet chassis under old Baccy bodies.

Thanks.

Hope this one interests you, just South of Stirling at Plean, hauled by A2/3 60524 Herringbone.

13 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

A couple of questions, Chas............

 

Did you build/paint it? If so, the AWS bang-plate should be painted black, not buffer beam red. 

 

With the front bogie wheel off the road, how far has it travelled?

 

It does look good, though.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Yes, I did indeed paint it myself and, of course you are correct about the bang plate. I only noticed the front bogie wheel when I enlarged the pic!! (The re-railing gang are on their way!)

Just because I know you are interested in these things, the exposure was 3-4 seconds at F27 (the lowest (Highest?) my camera will go.

Is it not the case that 100 degree solder will adhere strongly to both brass and white metal, obviating the need to tin the brass first?

My lockdown project, a totally untypical Scottish Region loco, despite the name! As one of my group will inevitably point out, lamps yet to be fitted! A DJH kit obtained at a very reasonable price from ebay.

A few more pics of trains for Larbert, two views of the West Coast Postal headed by A2/3 60524 Herringbone

 and followed by the afternoon fish train with 46239 City of Chester in charge.

9 hours ago, Happy Hippo said:

If you are using the Megapoints servo control board, you cannot just wire a relay into the  circuit.  It will need a separate relay control board, which Megapoints also make as part of their system. You can also get the correct relays from Dave, and he tests them to make sure they work before despatch.

I agree re the Megapoints board, the switch is merely a route to earth and does not carry any voltage as such so can't be used to power the relay. The most common method is to use a microswitch on the point motor activated by the servo arm. This is, of course, a mechanical solution. 

If you don't mind loads of extra wires (!) then you could use a DPDT switch on the panel, one side of the switch wired as the trigger for the board and the other side to carry the +v for the relay, with the relay sited close to the point to minimise the frog wires - hope this makes sense, and I will certainly bow to the knowledge of more electrical savvy members than me!

On 21/05/2020 at 14:02, Michael Edge said:

 

The above etch also includes the long awaited production version of the LNER V4.

Details please, Mike - availability, price etc.

1 hour ago, Theakerr said:

Can you make a slide over bushing from a piece of tubing to fit over the Romford Crank Pin?

Thanks, I have, using a set of frame alignment jigs to solder the washers I found on to the coupling rods, so I am hopeful that this will work OK. My remaining concern will come when soldering crank pin washers etc. that this will not come adrift. I have used higher melt solder for the washers and will use 145 or 100 degree solder for the rest. Fingers crossed!

Chas

1 hour ago, Bucoops said:

 

Would these do the job?

 

https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/wheels/rm11/

 

 

 

7 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good afternoon Chas,

 

Try getting an A2 motion set from SE Finecast - the coupling rods are exactly the same length, and have holes suitable for normal Romford crankpins.

 

The connecting rod is shorter on the A2/2, and you could just bush the big end. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Needless to say, about five minutes after i posted the question and having another look through the bits in the box, I found a strip of rather odd brass washers which turned out to be exactly the size of the bosses on the coupling rods etc., so it seems you are expected to solder these on and then use the rods as normal - might have fun centring  those though, so may have to check out the Finecast alternative. Thanks also to Bucoops, I may have some of those so will check that too. 

Thanks again.

Chas

Tony,

A question if I may. Working on a DJH A2/2 at the moment, it was one of the ones with pre-assembled valve gear and was originally supplied with wheels which had large crank pins already fitted (before DJH stopped supplying wheels) . So the valve gear is etched to suit with very large holes which will be far to big for standard Romford crank pins - any advice on how you may have solved this problem?

Thanks

Chas

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