Tom F

13 hours ago, LDM34046 said:

Hi Tom!

 

Considering the calibre of modelling on your last project I’m very much looking forward to the progress on this new one.

 

I may be a bit late to the party but I might offer my own findings. I used the wire-in-tube method on my layout and found it very difficult to find the right switches. 
 

In the end I settled with Elaine’s Emporium for their slide switches. Jewellery wire was threaded through small plastic tubing and into the point. The excess was drilled through the switch and then wrapped around the switch. It looks crude but having since done the scenics and foliage it looks fine.

 

 

 

Wiring was simply done, as per the wiring diagrams in this thread, made to change the polarity of the frog and hey presto, it worked.

 

It’s great to see more modeller’s using this method, as when I initially did some research, I couldn’t find many methods of ways to do it!

 

Sorry for the long post!

 

Happy Modelling! And New Year!

That's really useful! Yes thank you.

I've ordered some wire from Eileens (the switches look very similar to the ones I've ordered from amazon, so hopefully we should be ok).

 

2 hours ago, billywhizz said:

Only just come across this topic. Absolutely stunning modelling (and photography) Thank you for a couple of hours enjoyable reading. I do like the story that goes with the cameo photos which draw you in even further. 
Regards. 
Bill. 

Thanks Bill!

Well even though my focus is now on the new layout, I'll make sure to keep some cameo photos coming for this thread.

Some photos from today's lovely trip up the Eskdale valley.

Start the new year with how you mean to go on…..with trains
 

Happy New Year!

31 minutes ago, NeilHB said:

Let’s hope that there are no encounters with recalcitrant steam rollers, though at least the vans are empty! 
 

Blein vie Noa Tom! 

I hadn’t twigged I was setting up the scene with that shot! 
 

‘45 minutes later…..’

Happy New Year Neil

....or for us Sudrians, 'Blein vie Noa!

Thanks for all the feedback and advice. It’s greatly appreciated.
 

Some tweaks to the track plan now utilising a Y point which works better.

Line to the goods shed bearing off to the left, to the right at an angle, the coal line. I was very much inspired by the angle of the coal line at Beddgellert on the old Welsh Highland

I am now thinking ahead to wiring the entire layout (I’ve just about got my head around the points).

The layout will be analogue. I’ll need three isolating sections, both lines making up the loop and the sidings. Both sidings can be one isolating section. I’ve never done isolating sections, so this will require some help.

Here is the plan:

1 hour ago, PaulRhB said:

Tom the ‘crazy track’ 12” rad point doesn’t have the rails split at the frog so the blue jumpers will cause a short unless you cut the rails where the orange line is too. I agree it’s a bit confusing as the points are from different eras design wise!

Just powering the frog from the switch still has its advantages in reliability if you just leave off the blue jumpers. 

I’m a sucker for punishment and cut the rails very carefully with a small slitting disc, (others use a piercing saw), and protect the outer rails with card but you have to go careful so you don’t get too much heat and melt the chairs holding the rail  

Ah I understand now. Right I’ll give that a go today! I’d forgot I’d need the cut in the track too.

8 minutes ago, Butler Henderson said:

Yes if you keep the point as supplied then just a wire from whatever you use to switch the supply to the frog. The cut and new link method seeks to overcome the possibility of shorts arising between the inactive switch rail and stock rail as well as overcoming any issues arising from the active switch rail failing to make an electrical contact with the stock rail which Peco points as supplied rely on

 

Thanks Butler 

I just don’t want to get into a mess requiring buying new point work.

The larger point seems easier to deal with.

1 hour ago, PaulRhB said:

Tom the ‘crazy track’ 12” rad point doesn’t have the rails split at the frog so the blue jumpers will cause a short unless you cut the rails where the orange line is too. I agree it’s a bit confusing as the points are from different eras design wise!

Just powering the frog from the switch still has its advantages in reliability if you just leave off the blue jumpers. 

I’m a sucker for punishment and cut the rails very carefully with a small slitting disc, (others use a piercing saw), and protect the outer rails with card but you have to go careful so you don’t get too much heat and melt the chairs holding the rail  

Morning Paul

Ill be honest, it’s still confusing me (I really I’m a bit thick with all this).

I’m very tempted to leave the point as is and avoid any cutting.

I would still like it powered and rely on point blades, so what should be wiring exactly? Just the green frog wire?

2 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

No it’s not essential. I do it and wire the switch blades to the stock rails because it  just reduces the chance of a short if stock derails on the point. I usually prep the point on the bench as it’s easy. 
 

These are the HOm points and although they don’t have the easy to cut wires underneath, (I have to slit the rails very carefully from the top to achieve the same result), you can see the wires bonding the switch blades to the stock rails, arrowed. 

 

With the mainline 009 points I snip the wires to the frog from underneath with a pair of wire cutters and just bend the cut ends aside so they can’t contact by accident. 
 

Then I just cut holes in the board and drop in the switch. As the micro ones perfectly match the throw I don’t always use an omega loop in the operating link.

 

On the modules they are then hidden in the scenery. You can see the wire disappearing into the bank here and there’s a square cutout in the fascia to access it. 

 

Many thanks fo all tis Paul.

So for my smaller point, which doesn't appear to have a frog wire, would doing something like this look right.

 

Thanks for all the feedback, it is very much appreciated.

So I don't have to cut the wires between the blades and the frog?

I'm unsure why the smaller points don't have this adjoining bit underneath.

I've buried my head in the sand for a long time with wiring point work, but want to get this right. Just something that is reliable and works with the slide switches.

Some advice would be welcome please.

If I’m not careful, Ballamoddey could grind to a halt, as I’m approaching the area I’m most uncomfortable with……wiring.

Scaca used the points manually and unwired, which was fine but relying on the point blades to supply the current has its issues.

I would like to do Ballamoddey with fully wired points abs slide switches. Firstly, does the screen shot of the slides switches look about right?

Secondly. I will need to hardwire these points, what will be required doing to them, as the smaller points look slightly different to the longer ones.

I’d ideally like to get on with this sooner rather than later, otherwise enthusiasm I know will begin to ebb.

Had a nice visit from @BritishGypsum4yesterday. We did some Awdry research discussing MSR matters, before looking at the layouts. Ben was fettling my Royal Mail Land Rover in the photo.

I then gave Ben some tips and advice on airbrushing, so took the opportunity to spray my MSR brake van blue. 
 

We went out for a lovely meal before some discussion regarding other types of road vehicles I’ll need for a 1937-38 layout.

All in all, a great day!

7 hours ago, Night Train said:

I dont know how I missed this thread, but delighted to find it and spend a very pleasant couple of hours reading through. I love how the classic simplicity of the track plan is contrasted by the impeccable and flawless scenery that surrounds it. An absolute work of art. Thank you for sharing with us.

Genuinely touched by your comments Night Train, thank you!

I've learnt so much with Scaca, the only let down is my lack of electrical understanding. I have made the decision that on the new layout 'Ballamoddey', I intend to fully wire the point work.....so it will feel more like a proper model railway, than a diorama. 

1 hour ago, Aire Head said:

 

Without dragging up my copy of TIOS do we know when No. 2 Stanley was turned into a stationary boiler?

38 minutes ago, BritishGypsum4 said:

I've just looked Stanley up in the IOS and there is no date given for when he arrived to the line nor is there a date for when they decided to turn him into a pumping engine. 
 

It would have to be early 1920s (at the earliest), seen as No. 2 would have turned up as army surplus circa 1919. I'd have imagined in those post war years the MSR would have tried their upmost to get the most out of the locomotive before deciding to relegate it to stationary boiler use.

20 minutes ago, brack said:

Of course if I were choosing how to model Duke, I suspect I'd choose to model it in as close to kato condition as possible - the model looks good!

Hi brack

Yes, I've gone with a Kato Princess as the donor for Duke. I've imagined Peter Edward's went with as many reference photos of Prince that he found, or the Reverend supplied him with. I'm not a fan of the straight running plate, so I'm grateful for the kato model being stepped.

2 hours ago, fastforwardtt said:

Here are some ideas for the engines on the layout
Duke

Images by Old Vera, Wildnorwester, Jonateers and ttte wiki

1 hour ago, fastforwardtt said:

Ideas For engines on the layout (cont)
Duke (cont) Images by {israeligoverment} and TB76 Returns

17 minutes ago, BritishGypsum4 said:

 

Don't think this will go down well........

 

Indeed Ben...

@fastforwardtt, I'd like to ask that you please do not post TV series related imagery, or others works with faces on in my thread.

Any research regarding the Mid Sodor refers directly to the Rev W Awdry's own works, or that of the railways that inspired the MSR, i.e Ffestiniog, Welsh Highland, Snailbeech and Corris etc.

@AY Mod just tagging you for reference Andy, should this issue arise again.

Morning! Neil that’s exactly what I was thinking of but couldn’t remember the name of the switches. It’s what I used on Cwm Prysor.

I was wondering about if I could go underneath the boards with the wire before coming back up to surface level at the rear of the layout. So essentially putting a couple of 90 degree bends in the wire.

46 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

A combination of Corris and Ffestiniog and WHR practice? How delightful. Also looking forward to seeing this progress.

 

Pretty much Tim. The track plan was heavily influenced by Waunfawr on the WHR. A friend has kindly done me a signalling diagram, which will possibly take some influence from the Corris.

3 minutes ago, Mol_PMB said:

Following with interest, looks like another exciting project.

Forgive my lack of detailed Sudrian history, but will we see 'Duke' on this layout?

Mol

Morning Mol

We will indeed. We will initially see what locos were left after the sale of the passenger stock and ‘other’ locomotives.

This will include:

No. 1 ‘DUKE’ a small George England 0-4-0 Tender Saddle Tank.
 

No. 3 ‘FALCON’ an 0-4-2 Saddle Tank built at Loughborough’s Falcon Works

No. 4 ‘STUART’ an 0-4-2 Saddle Tank from Kerr Stuart’s.

4 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

Morning Tom. 

 

Looking forward to seeing this lovely idea come together. 

 

 

Rob. 

 

 

 

Morning Rob, and Merry Christmas! Hope you received some nice Railway related gifts yesterday!

I made a start on the boards (using foam board again) and the plan is to head to the shed and do some more work….however it looks like I’ve a few inches of snow to walk through this morning!