Airport2010

Ben

While we’re on the (unfortunate) subject of Heljan quality issues, I’ll just put the boot in once more!

My centre headcode Class 20 (about 18 months old) had been recently shorting out my entire layout for reasons unknown. It had developed a habit of dragging both axles at one end and therefore refused to run with my other 20 as a pairing.

I finally got forensic with it last week and removed each motor in turn to see if anything improved. One motor was clearly a smoother, faster and quieter performer when hooked up to a square 9v ‘smoke alarm’ battery, but just to ‘seal the deal’, I selected address 00 on the DCC throttle and connected the sickly motor to each running rail with its own two wires. It immediately shorted the layout so I had my answer.

I believe these motors are sealed for life in the factory therefore no fix can be applied, so I’m now running the loco with just one motor. Not a huge issue especially when running as a pair, but not the point either! I haven’t looked yet to see if Gaugemaster have spare motors  (I think they’re about £12?) but even though I’ve invalidated any possible warranty by doing the above, I’d suggest that a replacement motor would be a reasonable request given the loco’s age? 
 

Any thoughts or comments to share?

I expect Ben Jones will want to step in and make things right with you as soon as he reads this?

That’s what I’d expect him to do anyway. He’s the only person within Heljan worth a carrot when it comes to customer service as far as I can see. 
 

In terms of damaged locos I’ve never had a problem...but only because I make a 120 mile round trip to pick them up in person from Antics. 

Hi Ellis

Set of four ordered earlier...Motorail

Hi

Just completed the transplant of an ESU Loksound XL from my older Heljan 31 (which is now a free runner with no motors) into the new one that’s just out. All is well and the loco runs very nicely.

I’ve noticed that Heljan have now doubled-up the functionality of the LED that illuminates the headcode display, so that it now lights the cab as well. Really helpful: not. 
 

I was initially looking for a switch somewhere under the loco that could possibly turn the cab lights off, as you’d clearly not want them on at night but there doesn’t appear to be one, so I’m now wondering if I can turn down the brightness of said LED?

So does anyone know the CV number for adjusting cab lighting brightness downwards, as I don’t have the ESU manual and the website appears to be all in Deutsch!

Rather do that than cover the LED in black electrical tape!

Thanks in advance 

Thanks gents for all those replies! 
 

Much obliged!

Hi all

Does anyone know the size (diameter is the most critical dimension) of the split pin that Heljan uses in its screw link coupling assembly? I’ve found a couple of sets of said couplings which I can use, but the split pins are missing. 
 

Was thinking I could probably buy a pack on Ebay. I only need three items but expect I’ll have to buy 100

Thanks HN and Brushman for the info. Much appreciated!

1 hour ago, brushman47544 said:

Which era are you modelling? The 47/3s had water tanks just like the others from new and some never lost them.

1980 blue era. Planning on getting two locos. One retained the tank and one lost it. 47330/47364.

Hi.

Can anyone who has the original Heljan 47 confirm if the boiler water tanks are easily removable to create a 47/3, or are they actually supplied loose in the box, in order to be fitted If you wish to create a 47/0? 
 

I’m assuming that whatever was the case with the first loco will be repeated with this one.

Ta

Thanks Norman, I’ll report back in due course.

20 hours ago, norman said:

Hi Phil

Did you adjust the speed by altering the values in CV 294 i.e. was there any effect upon the rotational speed?

 

Hi Norman

CV 294 was set at 31 when I checked before adjusting it, which initially gave me some encouragement! I then reset it to a value of 1 with no change whatsoever, then a value of 0 with the same result.
 

The sound is great when you select F12, but the fan spins like a demented food mixer!

On 23/04/2020 at 07:17, Ressaldar said:

Hi Phil,

 

back in October 2018 I installed an ESU V4XL into a Heljan 47 for a fellow Club member and discussed the fan speed problem with SWDigital who had supplied the decoder. Their response was that on some Heljan diesels there is a 'pot' which can adjust the speed or if the 'pot' is not present, set

CV31 = 16

CV32 = 0

CV294 = 0 - 31 (output speed)

I adjusted the CVs and yes it does control the speed, but as stated elsewhere here, a certain amount of sound is still heard.

I hope this is of interest.

Stay safe all.

regards

Mike

Hi again Mike

I looked at those CV settings you referred to above, but unfortunately the decoder was already a perfect match to all three, so I’ve given up and admitted defeat on this roof fan. Body is now all zipped back up again and I’ll move on to other things. Cheers anyway!

Brgds

Thanks Mike I’ll have a play with those CV settings as you suggest.

Much appreciated!

Thanks Paul I’ll take a look at the Loksound paperwork for some wise words!

2 hours ago, pauliebanger said:

Phil,

 

Either turn the speed down using the potentiometer on the fan PCB, or reduce the PWM duty cycle on the function output which you have used to control the fan. (Or a mixture of the two).

 

Some have found that reducing the PWM alone introduces a buzzing/humming sound when the fan is running.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

Hi Paul. Thanks for that reply. 
When you say potentiometer, do you mean the little knurled plastic wheel which is part of the fan housing that you adjust with a tiny screwdriver? If so, I’ve looked for that already, but I don’t believe the 37 has one. I’ve seen them on my other locos, but not on this one.

Could you explain what PWM is? Sorry I’ve not come across that before. I’m happy installing decoders in a Janet and John process manner, but fiddling with them is scary stuff!

Cheers Phil

Hi

Can anyone tell me how on earth the speed of the roof fan can be slowed down to something normal on the O gauge Class 37?
 

The ESU Loksound XL that controls the loco does a great job generally, but the roof fan is clearly receiving too much power, as it spins like an aircraft propellor at full power and screams like a food blender when F12 is selected.
 

No other Heljan loco does this.

Doing my head in!

Cheers Phil

Cheers both for the info provided.

3 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

 

Apart from the set back bogie springs and for the later version, the addition of a headlight and the fitting above the cab, I dont think that much is different between old and new?

 

Thanks for the responses Odin and HN.

I’ve got one of the first series in banger blue (my first O gauge loco) which I unfortunately overpaid for, so I’m reluctant to flog it at probably a big loss. I daresay if I put the two locos side by side there would be some differences apparent, but I’ll take that chance and maybe grab one if they’re ever reduced.
 

Got the 47, 56 and Bubble Car to pay for this year, all being well!

Cheers Phil

On 06/03/2020 at 12:50, 47606odin said:

My depot is filling up

 

Hi Odin

Just wanted to ask about the snowplough fitting on your 33’s. Do they now have the same system as the 25/3 with a drilled and tapped hole in the chassis which the snowplough securing screws are firmly fixed into, or is it the same poor set up as the original 33 using the bogie frame?

Cheers

On 01/07/2012 at 15:45, Manxman110 said:

Hi

Am just installing a loksound sound decoder in a Heljan 0 gauge 37. Decided to dispense with the Heljan circuit board and wire direct into the decoder. Decided to go down this route as I put a sound decoder into a class 47 but modified the Heljan circuit board which was not wholly successful certainly as far as the lights are concerned and talking to Steve at South West Digital he said that he normally omits the Heljan circuit board.

 

All has gone well until I came to put the body back on the chassis and found it was handed and like a numpty I put it on the wrong way! Apart from that the everything works well except that the fan is receiving too much voltage from the auxilliary output. Have identified the CV which can change the auxilliary output settings but not sure what the revised settings should be- has anyody had the same problem?

Although it's quite long winded I think I prefer wiring direct into the decoder - the loco and lights work beautifully - if I can solve the fan settings job done!

Thanks for your help.

Hi. This is resurrecting an old post, but what is the number of the CV you refer to above, which enables the roof fan speed to be slowed down? Thanks

2 hours ago, Captain Cuttle said:

What were the issues i wonder?

Just general awkwardness and lack of support from Denmark. The same sort of mindset that produces some of the ‘almost really good’ models we sometimes get from them I suppose.

On a separate note, I was passing Howes recently and needed -yet again!-  a replacement cog for one that had split in my O gauge Class 26.

It was Mike’s day off but I thought they could help me as they surely can’t run their business around one man’s days off?

The chap who served me didn’t even know what a Class 26 was, let alone a cog. I went back another day when Mike was around...

Not at all surprised to read this. The owner (not talking about Mike who deals with all rail matters) mentioned to me he was sick to death of dealing with Heljan a good two years ago.  

1 hour ago, Captain Cuttle said:

I am not concerned what other people say it was just the mention of them riding too high which as i found out is the springs on the cw bogies but do the B1 bogies also ride too high  i wonder? Then someone mentioned roof shape! For me having built a lot of coach kits for many years i dont want to do that any more and have a couple of the Heljan mk 1s which are okay, couple of issues so wondered how the Darstaed would look next to them. I dont go to shows much these days so other than reviews havent seen them in the flesh, hence the questions.

 

Alan

Hi Alan

i have a total of 10 Darstaed Mk1 vehicles and here’s my overview...

The original issue: TSO; CK etc were (and still are) absolutely sublime runners due to their brass sides, position adjustable Kadee couplers and overall weight. I had a rake of 7 vehicles and ironically the only loco that can’t pull them is my JLTRT Class 50 as it has insufficient weight to avoid wheel spin.
 

Since buying them Ellis Clark has organised the issuing of shorter springs which has lowered the entire rake by about 2mm. Ideally they’d be a tad lower still, so as to be noticeably lower than the diesel loco pulling them, but I can live with that as they’re delightful in all other respects.

The more recent BG’s with the B1 bogie have a different issue. There are no removable springs, and so with prototypical diameter wheels fitted they certainly are too high. I’ve chosen to overcome this by swapping the larger wheels for smaller but incorrect ones which have removed the height issue.

Not everyone could live with the above situation, but I enjoy watching a running rake from a distance and not through a magnifying glass, so I’m very happy with mine.

Hope this helps a bit.

Cheers Phil

17 hours ago, deltic17 said:

Yes a nice effort but too high in my eyes.

 

I am prepared to wait as Dapol are probably going to clean up with these latest Mk1's. I'm in no rush and in particular, I need the ones with the later window surrounds. 

Yes I agree they’re a tad on the lofty side, so I try to look at them only from above!

The Darstaed BG’s are quite excellent.