HeatonLodge40

Hi Graham, The bearings come from M&M models and are supplied with two sets of standard 3 hole wagon wheels. The axlebox of the kit being built needs to be opened up with a 4mm drill bit to accept the miniature bearing. Once fitted the kit runs extremely freely with much less resistance than even normal rtr Simon

That's very kind thank you. Bit behind schedule but it'll get there in the end.

Hi Steve I get mine from Ten Commandments via the Invertrains website. Pete Clark models also does resin versions. Cheers

Yea I know they are awaiting weathering and Calor Gas logos. There is nothing bright on Heaton Lodge everything is filthy!

While I'm waiting for the next 2 boards to arrive so I can make a start on the scenery for the next section, I've a couple of projects on the workbench. First is a fenced off concrete compound used to house propane cylinders and a large calor type tank which fed the gas point heaters up to about 1989. Pete Harvey had the fencing etched for me which I soldered together. He also had cast in resin the propane cylinders and the tank itself which I've just painted. They are awaiting 'Calor' logos and weathering. The concrete is Humbrol pale grey with talc sprinkled on to roughen the surface finally weathered with AK Interactive slate grey powder. I'm also teaching myself to get building some rolling stock, and on the bench is my first attempt at a JLTRT TTA tank. I need about 25 of these. I got a spare pack of fitting with it as I knew I'd melt some bits and damage others which is what happened. I'm fitting roller bearing in the axleboxes so they run very free. With 25 behind a '37 they need to be.

Just installed the junction sign that lasted a few years at HL during the early '80's. Made by Absolute Aspects I've weathered it with AK interactive weathering powder & model mates rust liquid.. Last pic is the new relay box. I like the AK range and they do a product called corrosion texture which is a nice colour and as it says, leaves a nice rusty like surface..

Just use the PVA neat. I've tried most of the glues but PVA works fine for me!

Just let it drop into the fibres Allan - on to the PVA or whatever glue you use. I usually give the whole lot a spray of matt varnish too. The earth powder 'Treemendus' does is brilliant but a fiver a bag. Crushed dried soil then sieved as fine as poss, is a close second. Cheers

Hi Allan I mix different shades and stick them in for about a minute. It separates them and they are much easier to discharge from the static grass gun. Don't forget the earth powder or grind up some soil until really fine and sprinkle that on afterwards. That is what makes the biggest difference in my book to the finished grass. Cheers! Simon

Thanks for that.. I nicked the food blender idea from Gordon Gravetts book 'Modelling grassland & landscape detailing' really great ideas in it for perfecting scenic modelling. Simon

Thanks Allan/Steve. just a reminder of the real location in 1986 albeit summer

Been a while since an update.. the 8ft section which includes the junction and a fair bit of civil engineering is now complete bar some super detailing. Probably taken me as long to complete this as the previous 20ft of simple grass embankments but I'm pleased with it. I've agonised over the gorse bushes which are in exactly the same place on the real Heaton Lodge as on the model, trying sea moss covered with 2mm static grass fibres but couldn't seem to get it right. That was until I saw the medium bushes range from Polak. I sprayed a few boxes of them with matt varnish before sprinkling on some dark green flock from Carrs. Yellow flowers are slightly bigger flock particles. All secured separately with a hot glue gun. The next 8ft will be slightly less work but the 8ft after that is the start of a double junction crossover measuring 12ft. That's really going to be fun since it includes 2 rail overbridges, a 6ft section of road and dirt tracks. Nothing that hasn't been done so far though..

Agreed - stunning Allan. I like the last building especially, its very similar to a derelict sewerage works I'm going to need for Heaton Lodge.

Thanks for that. I am just about to construct a hard standing in concrete for a Calor Gas tank so I'll use your technique. Cheers Simon

I'd also look at Invertrains website that do BR/LMS/LNER & SR ballast bins and much else

Board 13, (thats 48ft-52ft) will probably have taken 5 times as long to complete since there's so many details and features on it compared to the others. With another 32 boards to go over the next couple of years I've got my work cut out with this scenery.. Anyway the end is in sight on board 13 the last few evening have involved fence construction using evergreen styrene strip. I normally use slaters fencing albeit 'modified' here and there, but when the fence has to follow steep inclines (see following photos) then in order for the posts to remain upright - as they should - out comes the superglue and more than a few swearwords. (I know Peco do fencing that follows contours but I've never seen triangular fence strips as on theirs.) As in previous posts I've looked at just about every way possible to model some moderately deep water for the culvert/stream on the north side which would show features like tyres/bricks and other junk I've glued down just underneath the surface. As luck would have it I saw Woodland Scenics (no relation/dealing with them and all that) were bringing out a new range of 'deep pour water' in various pre-coloured shades - I'm using the murky shade. I've been waiting for this to land which it did a couple of days ago so with bated breath I followed the instructions (totally unlike me) and the following pics show the result - although its not fully cured yet. I'm pleased with it although I can't leave it alone. My biggest weakness is I always use too much of everything like superglue etc so I've locked the workshop and forced myself to do something else. Good job since I'm sure the fumes have given me a headache.

Seconded. Their range of gorse bushes in 7mm is outstanding

Thanks Brian

It's really good for creating an almost invisible frame to scatter on flock and such to give the impression of weeds etc slightly above the ground level. Some use rubberised horsehair for the same purpose but for me it's a bit too coarse Allan

Thanks for that really interesting. I will try your technique for brambles. I use the Rustoleum brand of matt varnish, I get it on eBay. Treemendous earth powder is brilliant and the £5 bag goes a long way.

Mini Natur' full range of colours are now difficult to get hold of in this country. I order direct from the company in Germany (just google Mini Natur de). They email you when your order is ready and you can pay by paypal. In my opinion their range is outstanding quality but they ideally need mixing (I do it in a food blender) before application. I also combine 4mm/6mm/12mm lengths together).

The blobs get covered by the grass anyway, but I'm sure they would dry clear - I've never noticed them afterwards. But once again sprinkle the ground up earth on again quite finely onto the second layer. i should mention my mixes of grass are meant to replicate grass in Winter. That said if HL was set in Summer I'd keep the same formula. Too bright a green ruins the effect in my humble opinion

Finished the static grass the other side of the gantry this evening. Didn't bother with the postiche this time just did a second layer of longer grass straight onto matt spray varnish followed by a sprinkling of burnt grass flock. Did use postiche for the brambles which handily cover the joins in the stone walls and randomly on the banks. I like Postiche its very fine so I tease it out lay it on the grass or wall, spray heavily with the varnish before sprinkling on heavily ground up dark brown dead leaves. Got the coffee grinder from Argos about £12.

I spray it quite thickly till you can see blobs of it on the blades of static grass. I'll sprinkle the earth on again afterwards, gives it that matt real look.

Hi Julian, its Rustoleum Crystal Clear. To be honest I've not tried layering spray - it may work better but the varnish does work as you can see