HeatonLodge40

It's been said plenty, but I have to say how impressive this is. Can't wait to be able to see it in the flesh, Every element is just superb.

I'm not sure I can fully comprehend the scale of it! 

That's very kind thank you. Bit behind schedule but it'll get there in the end.

Where did the relay box come from? I'm in need of a few

Hi Steve I get mine from Ten Commandments via the Invertrains website. Pete Clark models also does resin versions.

Cheers

Might I timidly suggest that the calor cylinders are a little too intense? A bit of fading, perhaps?

 

Best

Simon

Yea I know they are awaiting weathering and Calor Gas logos. There is nothing bright on Heaton Lodge everything is filthy!

While I'm waiting for the next 2 boards to arrive so I can make a start on the scenery for the next section, I've a couple of projects on the workbench.

First is a fenced off concrete compound used to house propane cylinders and a large calor type tank which fed the gas point heaters up to about 1989.

Pete Harvey had the fencing etched for me which I soldered together. He also had cast in resin the propane cylinders and the tank itself which I've just painted. They are awaiting 'Calor' logos and weathering. The concrete is Humbrol pale grey with talc sprinkled on to roughen the surface finally weathered with AK Interactive slate grey powder.

I'm also teaching myself to get building some rolling stock, and on the bench is my first attempt at a JLTRT TTA tank. I need about 25 of these. I got a spare pack of fitting with it as I knew I'd melt some bits and damage others which is what happened. I'm fitting roller bearing in the axleboxes so they run very free. With 25 behind a '37 they need to be.

Just installed the junction sign that lasted a few years at HL during the early '80's.

Made by Absolute Aspects I've weathered it with AK interactive weathering powder & model mates rust liquid..

Last pic is the new relay box. I like the AK range and they do a product called corrosion texture which is a nice colour and as it says, leaves a nice rusty like surface..

Just use the PVA neat. I've tried most of the glues but PVA works fine for me!

Thanks for that, Simon.

 

Just a quickie. When you sprinkle on the earth mix, do you glue it down in anyway with a pre coat of spray varnish say or just let it drop into the fibres ?

 

Cheers, mate.

 

Allan

Just let it drop into the fibres Allan - on to the PVA or whatever glue you use. I usually give the whole lot a spray of matt varnish too. The earth powder 'Treemendus' does is brilliant but a fiver a bag. Crushed dried soil then sieved as fine as poss, is a close second.

Cheers

Simon. How long do you leave the fibres in the food blender for coz Sylvia has got a spare blender out in the shed that she said I could have so I might give it a go ?

 

Do you put them through the blender just the once, or every time you go to use it ? 

 

Cheers mate.

 

Allan

Hi Allan I mix different shades and stick them in for about a minute. It separates them and they are much easier to discharge from the static grass gun. Don't forget the earth powder or grind up some soil until really fine and sprinkle that on afterwards. That is what makes the biggest difference in my book to the finished grass. Cheers!

Simon

Simon

Just to say as well as following this thread with great interest, I have been trying out your techniques and have 2 things to say about this. First the dried crushed earth really is magic powder in terms of toning everything down and second using the food blender to mix the static grass is a stroke of genius, since doing this I have had a massive improvement in the look of the finished item, as spinning it up in the blender gives it a fair static charge before it even goes into the applicator Fantastic

all the best

Thanks for that..

I nicked the food blender idea from Gordon Gravetts book 'Modelling grassland & landscape detailing' really great ideas in it for perfecting scenic modelling. 

Simon

Thanks Allan/Steve. just a reminder of the real location in 1986 albeit summer

I have always loved seeing your modelling skills Allan although artistic skill is far more appropriate term. I have to say that these latest photos just take my breath away, the skill level is just stunning.

 

John

Agreed - stunning Allan. I like the last building especially, its very similar to a derelict sewerage works I'm going to need for Heaton Lodge.

Thanks for that. I am just about to construct a hard standing in concrete for a Calor Gas tank so I'll use your technique. Cheers

Simon

I'd also look at Invertrains website that do BR/LMS/LNER & SR ballast bins and much else

 Have a look at the Polak range, they are good quality grasses.

 

I have no problem with recommending this product and judging the sales at the recent York show, quite a few  others will  join me there.

Seconded. Their range of gorse bushes in 7mm is outstanding

Thanks Brian

It's really good for creating an almost invisible frame to scatter on flock and such to give the impression of weeds etc slightly above the ground level.

Some use rubberised horsehair for the same purpose but for me it's a bit too coarse Allan

Thanks for that really interesting. I will try your technique for brambles. I use the Rustoleum brand of matt varnish, I get it on eBay.

Treemendous earth powder is brilliant and the £5 bag goes a long way.

There's also: http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=N07066&style=&strType=&Mcode=Noch+07066 and 

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=N07071&style=&strType=&Mcode=Noch+07071 for assortments. 

 

 

 

 

Building on Tom's comment, some fibre colours are not suitable for UK-based layouts, but some are. Noch fibres generally seem to be shinier than the likes of Heki and Faller. Polak has been reported as fairly matt - I am about to try some, having bought samples from Bezzy Oppo of this parish at York. John of GreenScene also has some Mininatur products for sale, though not sure if they are on the GS web-site yet. 

Mini Natur' full range of colours are now difficult to get hold of in this country. I order direct from the company in Germany (just google Mini Natur de). They email you when your order is ready and you can pay by paypal.

In my opinion their range is outstanding quality but they ideally need mixing (I do it in a food blender) before application. I also combine 4mm/6mm/12mm lengths together).

Looks really good, very nice static grass techniques I can see you worked at them as they say practice makes perfect. Without meaning to sound like a pedantic arse, do the blobs of varnish disappear when dry?

The blobs get covered by the grass anyway, but I'm sure they would dry clear - I've never noticed them afterwards. But once again sprinkle the ground up earth on again quite finely onto the second layer.

i should mention my mixes of grass are meant to replicate grass in Winter. That said if HL was set in Summer I'd keep the same formula. Too bright a green ruins the effect in my humble opinion

Finished the static grass the other side of the gantry this evening. Didn't bother with the postiche this time just did a second layer of longer grass straight onto matt spray varnish followed by a sprinkling of burnt grass flock.

Did use postiche for the brambles which handily cover the joins in the stone walls and randomly on the banks. I like Postiche its very fine so I tease it out lay it on the grass or wall, spray heavily with the varnish before sprinkling on heavily ground up dark brown dead leaves. Got the coffee grinder from Argos about £12.

Thanks for posting

I have been using some of your other methods with good results esp the crushed earth

How liberal are you with the varnish is it a light or heavy coat before the next layer of static grass

cheers

I spray it quite thickly till you can see blobs of it on the blades of static grass. I'll sprinkle the earth on again afterwards, gives it that matt real look.

That's interesting - when I tried matt varnish it didn't appear to be strong enough to hold the top layer securely. Therefore I used a layering spray which works OK. I suspect it is based on PVA, mainly due to its colour, but I could be wrong.

 

Matt varnish would definitely be cheaper though - which brand do you use?

Hi Julian, its Rustoleum Crystal Clear. To be honest I've not tried layering spray - it may work better but the varnish does work as you can see

Thanks for the helpful information Simon.

 

I have seen a lot of people suggesting cheap hairspray instead of varnish as a fixative.  Have you tried this and decided varnish is better or just stuck with something that obviously works well?

In all honesty although hairspray might work to 'seal' everything in I don't think it has the strength to hold different layers of static grass. Plus I suspect some brands might give an unwanted shine to the result. So to answer your question I'm just sticking to what I know works. And it is cheaper than various 'layering sprays' which I think are probably just matt varnish with a different label