Jan W

6 hours ago, CF MRC said:

The first image is low res highly cropped. The others should be OK. 
 

Tim

Tim,

When we click on an image we are directed to Photobucket and you need an account to access the high res image (that is what I expect).

Without account we can only see the image that is in the thread.

In other threads (just checked John Brenchleys Tavistock images) a high res version opens in rmweb.

Sorry for the off topic info, the Newcastle layout is wonderful!

Jan

I think the frame bushes are bronze because the Mk4 driving wheels had brass stub axles.

Bearings and axles must be of a different material. Drive bushes can be brass because the gear muffs run on steel axles.

I suppose the bronze bushes are not needed with the Mk5 wheels with their steel axles.

Jan

Did you check the gears for burrs?

Could it be that there are small burrs on the edges of the teeth?

It could explain why the grinding doesn't always occur.

A slight sideways movement can bring the offensive edge above the other gear.

Jan

22 hours ago, Izzy said:

He talks about using stripped Hi-fi wire strands forming a 'sinnet'. 

 

I found the same site and then tried tonfind what a sinnet is:

https://www.animatedknots.com/four-strand-square-sinnet-knota

Haven't tried it yet and I found the animation a bit hard to follow.

Later on in the animation they show the end-on view which is better.

Jan

Looking at the instructions of the 2-330 it seems that you have to shorten them to fit the 2-552 wagon bodies?

2-327 chassis seem to be for the 1887 rch wagons. Brake hangers are different on the 2-330.

Jan 

It is not possible to compare slow running of these motors with the test you did.

As you already said the iron cored motor will have to overcome the cogging where the coreless motor hardly has any resistance when running unloaded.

So it seems to perform less well on slow speeds but you'll be surprised how well it will perform in normal use.

Jan

I really can't wait to come to the Diamond Jubilee meeting next year and see CF there!!

It looks wonderful and I still can't understand how you chop up and modify existing structures and make them look as if nothing has ever happened.

But... where is "Kings Cross Goods Station Refreshment Club”?

Jan

I have never printed anything (I only ordered from Shapeways until now) but from what I read here it seems that you should angle the workpiece relative to the build plate to prevent suction. The edge of your plate is now parallel to the resin and will stick to it. I think?

Jan

I solved this by powering all equipment on my workbench (lathe, mill, soldering iron, lamp, micro drill) from one switched socket block.

I always leave the lamp switch on, I only use the switch on the socket block. 

Impossible to forget to switch off power because the lamp will stay on then.

Jan

I did a quick test with the Vivak sheet by clamping it in the inner ring of a ball bearing with a steel bush to press it against the bearing

Then I put it in boilt water for approx. 5 min and cooled it with cold water.

It works very well, it keeps its form without springing back, there is only a very small gap between the plastic and the bush:

And this is the result. The surface is not completely smooth because I left the protective foil on.

I think that a very smooth former will give better results. 

Jan

You could try Bayer Vivak copolyester sheet.

It is availavle in 0.5mm and can be formed when warm.

I found some info in English here:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.stephen-webster.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Vivak-PETg-Solid-copolyester-sheet-datasheet.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjih9j-lNruAhVFPuwKHWlBAPoQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw0cHk9OH5DS4WzhcdnO11yh&cshid=1612783431178

My 'local' (15km from home) model shop sells it.

I use it as glazing material but I haven't tried forming it.

Jan

16 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

My strong suspicion is that it is concreted over the sleepers in order to allow the washings etc. to be flushed away rather than have them simply soak into the ballast.

I looked it up in Stephen Williams' GW branch line modelling, this confirms your suspicion:

'Standard arrangements show the rail immediately in front of the pens set in concrete with drainage gullies to facilitate cleansing'.

Jan 

That's quite an impressive formation!

What is the y-turnout top right in the last picture used for? Is it in some kind of run-round track?

The bottom track seems to have nowhere to go to.

3 hours ago, Pixie said:

Whilst I do harbour long-term desires of building a large 2mm layout based around somewhere on the GWML, the short-term practicalities of living in a relatively small two bedroom house does scupper these plans.  Pragmatically, it’s at least a couple of decades until I’m likely to be in a position to have the space to build the layout-room--Cavalier-Restoration-Centre I dream of, by which time the models I’m building will probably be due for replacement.

 

With all this in mind, I’ve decided to build a few photo-dioramas. Metre-long sections of various bits of GWML that will allow be to get the trains out and take some photographs of them in a correct setting. Based around the IKEA LACK shelves, it will allow neat wall-mounting and easy changeover between JAPlank and whichever one I fancy putting up. 

Have you considered a modular concept?

I have a similar 'problem', I share my layout room with the rest of the family. My daughter has her desk and a lounge chair and we also use it to dry the laundry.

No space left for a permanent layout.

I've recently decided that I will build modules that are easily set up and connected with some 'blank space' in between. Two terminus stations (one is a junction to the main line aka fiddle yard) and at least one station in between. Can be extended in the future or I can build more modules and use different modules in a running session.

In your case it will be a bit more difficult with a four track main line but maybe u can use two lines for through running?

Jan

Richard,

The december MRH magazine has a feature about making ballast in any colour from sand.

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/

Seems like quite a bit of work but the result is very nice. 

Jan

Edit: your coffee ballast looks very good. It's a bit difficult to see but am I right that the loose grain effect is a bit lost because of glue or paint?

Perhaps file or mill a 90 degree slot in the rear face?

Then you won't have to bend the whole thickness.

You often need a bit of luck to find something specific. 

Everyone uses a slightly different search text so it helps if other people give it a try.

Most annoying thing is when you have seen something but can't find it again when you need it...

Is this what you're looking for?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Lathe-Round-Length/dp/B07KZHJ1HP/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Round+steel+rod+1.2mm&qid=1606589312&sr=8-1

1 hour ago, TomE said:

The vertical pixelation lines you can see in the image above are barely visible to the naked eye. I’m not sure why the iPhone camera magnifys them so much! 

Camera's try to enhance detail with a sharpening algorithm, I think that is what happens here.

On more advanced camera's this is adjustable but I would be very surprised if an iPhone (or any other phone) had this option.

7 hours ago, rue_d_etropal said:

Two points that puzzle me.

Firstly for harder plastics Shapeways can print down to 0.3mm. I normally go for sightly more than that. Rods(eg bars on windows) have to be minimum of 0.6mm thick.

Secondly 75 euros for a 2mm scale or N gauge model sound expensive. My coach bodies are usually less than half that.

The coaches are in the Shapeways marketplace so the designer also gets his fee.

And shipping costs are rediculous (they are in Eindhoven, Netherlands so no international shipping)

I just cheched at Shapeways, prices in dollars:

2 coach bodies $64.54, handling $1.96, shipping $15.72, total $80.26

So not far off the €75 I estimated.

But since your experience is different I'll draw a simple box shape with the dimensions of the coach and see if printing my own design is more affordable. Thanks for asking!

Jan 

Edit: Simon, I just noticed that the coaches I'm looking for are your SECR push-

pull coaches! 

You offer a lot of very nice designs on Shapeways!

I have a question about wall thickness for coaches.

From what I have read it seems that a wall thickness of approx. 1mm is recommended.

This would give problems with glazing, like the old rtr offerings.

If I draw a coach with a recess on the inside around the window aperture and leave a wall thickness of 0.4mm, would that print well?

I did something similar with a Dapol autocoach where I milled a recess for the glazing material on the inside.

I seems that buying my own printer will also be cheaper than printing through Shapeways.

The coaches I want to build are available on Shapeways but would cost around €75,- (incl. shipping costs). If I add that to the few parts that I already had them printed I would have spent half the cost of my own printer.

And I would make more use of 3D printing because it would be affordable...

Jan

The -now retired- toolmaker at work recommended 2 flute  cutters for milling slots.

Idea is that the cutter deflects a bit when it cuts but when it only has two flutes the other flute doesn't touch any material.

Must only be valid for shallow cuts because of the twisting of the flutes

26 minutes ago, Ian Smith said:

not sure if you need to be a member on WT to follow that link though

It works, thanks!

Julia,

The brackets you made for te hob and the MF70 look like 3D prints.

Are these accurate enough direct from te printer of do you have to machine them afterwards?

And do you need a very sophisticated printer for parts like this?

The hob looks very professional