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Posts posted by Chamby
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7 hours ago, St Enodoc said:
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Good news. The meter revealed a short circuit between sockets 7 and 8. Once I'd attacked some rather ordinary-looking lumps of solder on the bottom of the socket board with a needle file, all was well and 6837 now works on DCC.…
1 hour ago, Oldddudders said:I once bought a 4-8-4 which shorted the moment the tender hit the track. The loco alone seemed fine, but wouldn't do a lot as all the electrical gubbins were in the multi-wheel tender. It proved to be the socket under the loco cab where there was stray solder. Like St E, a bit of sawing and filing cleared it.
Clearly we are not alone… it doesn't say much for the manufacturers quality control, it is a simple enough thing to check.- 1
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10 hours ago, St Enodoc said:
A few weeks ago I bought a couple of decoders for the two second-hand Granges. I had a bit of spare time today, so decided to fit them.
The first went into the later model R3452, with the decoder socket in the tender, without any problems and the loco now operates nicely on DCC.
The second went into the earlier-style model R2548, with the decoder socket in the loco. This refuses to work at all. I don't think I've done anything differently but the decoder doesn't seem to be accepting any changes from Decoder Pro. I was a bit suspicious when it just sat there without the characteristic twitching during updating. Anyway, the upshot is that I think I'll take the decoder back to Mark at the shop. He might have a decoder tester or might just change the decoder for a new one if it's in stock.
The loco was/is fine on DC with just the blanking plate in place.
For the record, these are both ESU LokPilot 5 DCC decoders with 8-pin plugs (model 59620).
All a bit frustrating and time-consuming, which stopped me getting any further with couplings, name- and numberplates and so on.
Have a look at the underside of the socket, or test for shorts using a circuit tester. One of my new Hornby locos had sloppy soldering hidden underneath that shorted across two of the sockets - it didn’t affect DC but DCC didn’t like it. All eight of the sockets should be electrically separate from each other, if you are fitting a chip…
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4 hours ago, Willie Whizz said:
I know that for some people, 100% accuracy is essential and without it any model, however good otherwise, will be fatally compromised.
But I have to say that, looking at those lovely A3s, even though I knew what I was meant to be looking for, discerning the different numbers of spokes was practically impossible for me without physically putting my finger on the picture and going: “one, two, three …”.
Maybe some people just worry too much for their own good.
I can be very happy with a model until some bright herbert comes along and points out what is wrong with it. After then, it becomes impossible to view the model without also seeing the defect.I admire those who can just shrug this off and continue to enjoy their model just as much thereafter. For others of us, the enjoyment forever becomes tempered until you are driven to fix the defect. Perfectionists don’t have it easy!
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2 hours ago, tmc said:
Hi Chamby
We're sorry you feel this way! What is it about the search that you don't like? For me it gives the exact results I'm looking for every time. The more you type into our search the more specific the results. If you need help on how to use it then please feel free to give us a call. We are in the process of adding 'filters' into the search, this should be live within a week or so. Hope this helps!
All the bestAlex (TMC)
Hi Alex, thanks for responding. It’s when you send out those tempting updates about new discounts on offer: As you fully intend, it temps me to visit your site and see if there’s anything of interest… in my case I want to browse through your new OO gauge rail items (ie: excluding pre-owned) and see what you have in stock. Like @Butler Henderson says, the filter options only allow me to select pre-owned rather than to select new items; and I also seem to end up with loads of pre-order items and things that are out of stock. So what I want to see becomes swamped by too much of what I don’t want. I accept that this search would deliver a large result anyway… but the lack of filtering makes it excessively tedious and unsatisfying, such that I no longer bother.
If I am looking for a specific item, it works fine… it’s the ‘“I’ll just have a browse and see if there’s anything to temp me” visits that are an issue. A surprising amount of my purchasing is done in this way, and until recently I’d buy several items a year from you, opportunistically. But currently, you miss out on a potential sale, and I might be missing out on an opportunity.
I use Mac and iPad, if that has any bearing on site functionality.
kind regards,
Phil
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I prefer to browse other retailers websites now and only visit TMC as a last resort if I am looking for a specific item. Which is a shame really, all that advertising activity, that then just drops you into an intensely frustrating search function.
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The biggest irritation for me is when you can’t filter out pre-owned from new. I have no interest in over-priced models that are incomplete and/or damaged and/or coarse scale… yet these can flood the search results, especially when you are looking for a genuine bargain.
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Well this terraced street is proving to be a bigger job than I imagined, but never mind - it's all proving to be enjoyable modelling! An update is overdue:
I have finally settled on a plan for the street, it requires 30 properties laid out as follows:
Note that there are two properties just in front of the turntable which have open fronts, these will receive shop windows, which will represent a couple of businesses from my family's history:
Also, sections of pine strip have been glued between alternate houses to create an alley through from the street to the rear of each property. Most Victorian terraces in Leicester seem to have these. Their inclusion is one of the reasons why I decided not to use the SMS brick-paper wraps, as these are only designed to fit an individual property and not with the extra width as set up above. Otherwise, the basic shell of the kit is unaltered. This next image gives a view at street level, showing the effect that I am trying to achieve - imagine a few parked cars, kids playing football in the street, and housewives stood in their front door nattering with the neighbours:
The short terrace of four properties straddling the end of the street will be completed before I work on the rest. These are to be a 'test bed' for construction techniques and assembly, which should pave the way for a more efficient build of the main terraces.
Lighting is being added to the houses: my railway room doesn't get direct sunlight and is especially dim during the winter months, so it seemed like a good idea at the time... after much fiddling about with LED's, resistances and power supplies I settled on using a power supply from a recently replaced BT wi-fi router, giving a 6V 500mA output. This gives a nice level of illumination when used with 2x daylight white LED's wired in series with a 100 ohm resistor. Of the four houses in this short terrace, I have decided to illuminate 3x downstairs and 2x upstairs rooms, to provide some variety along the row. Different lighting effects from house-to-house are achieved by inserting coloured card 'walls' in the lit rooms which gives a pleasing variety of colours as seen through the windows. The patterns used on the card inserts are ridiculously over-scale but this is not really noticeable once the window frames have been installed, as it is the lighting effect that predominates:
Also shown above is how the Redutex brickwork will look, an effect that I am quite pleased with despite the mortar courses being a little coarse - the slightly 3D effect of the brickwork is very noticeable and enhances the appearance considerably. Windowsills have been installed and painted, but lintels above each window have still to be added, using painted plastic strip. The windows and door in the nearest house have been loose-fitted at this stage. And the fit is rather loose, I'll need to add further fillets of plastic strip to the sides and top of the window frames to prevent light shining through where it's not supposed to. My thoughts are now turning to 3D printed furniture and figures inside the illuminated rooms... although this feels like a step too far, for now at least!
One little innovation that I have made along the way relates to the polarity of lighting, critical for the LED's installed. With two wires, it would be all too easy to get the polarity wrong and potentially blowing the bulbs. Yes, I could install additional diodes to protect against reverse polarity, however by using a 3-way connector the risk is avoided, using the central pin for the + supply and the two outer ones wired up to the -ve. This way, no matter which way round the male and female connectors are joined, the polarity will always be correct:
Next: Adding the lintels, window frames and glazing, then finally the roofs and chimneys. 60x 3D printed chimney pots have recently arrived from Model Railway Scenes, very nice and very reasonably priced they are too. So I think that's everything acquired now, to complete this short terrace at least.
Back to the modelling bench...
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On 11/02/2024 at 06:58, Ray M said:
Are AS or Bachmann doing a skinhead
in Green SYP ?
57 minutes ago, atherton said:I'm sure that it's a class 30 as there's no grille in the bodyside door which was put in at the time of conversion to a 31 with the EE engine. Also it's a toffee apple with the white window surround which will need to be painted to include the yellow panel, although I have seen a pic of D5515 with SYP and white window surrounds. Happy to be corrected on any of these points, but the have certainly put me off buying one!
@atherton you don’t need correcting, but I would point out that the OP only asked after a ‘skinhead’ and wasn’t specific about which variant!
On a separate point, I find it interesting that the manufacturers are currently competing directly against each other with the first generation diesels. Does this reflect the fact that those of us who are arriving at retirement age will mostly recall BR in its early post-steam, blue era - and are therefore looking to this epoch when embarking upon a retirement project?
Perhaps then, the hobby’s mainstream is finally moving up an epoch from late BR steam, at least in terms of where manufacturers perceive that the big money is being spent.
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2 hours ago, Ray M said:
Are AS or Bachmann doing a skinhead
in Green SYP ?
Hornby R30120. Available now, new stock at Rails and presumably other retailers. Easy enough to add a small yellow panel… -
10 hours ago, St Enodoc said:
All right, I have to ask.
Who were M and W or is that a state secret?
Did one of them have short, fat, hairy legs?- 1
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8 hours ago, St Enodoc said:
Must be hard living in Devon.
I always wondered why I am more relaxed after crossing the Tamar when travelling home…- 2
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If you modify the loco, then the inherent flaw in the track remains, just waiting for another future purchase or a friends visiting loco to fall foul of it.
If you modify the track, the fix is permanent… yes it is a bit of an inconvenience, but it doesn’t compromise the appearance apart from adding a couple of extra rail breaks, and you won’t have any future problems.
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Re: consisting and speed matching, I usually set one locomotive off running round the layout and then run the other one up behind it, getting it to run as close as possible to the first one and then determine the speed setting that lets it sit there consistently close, but not coupling up. As others have said, adjusting the speed curve programming helps if you want both loco’s to respond to the same command. It can become quite an absorbing ‘game’ to get it right.
When coupled up, watching the tension on the coupling is a useful indicator. I like to have the lead loco very lightly pulling on the coupling rather than the rear loco closing up the gap, if you can’t get it spot on. You can sometimes find the sweet spot where the coupling is engaged but neither being pulled or pushed… usually it will alternate between the two as track conditions vary slightly underneath the two loco’s. In practice though, there seems to be a bit of tolerance when setting it up, ie: getting it close enough is fine, it doesn’t have to be identical.
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6 hours ago, The Johnster said:I thought I'd put my two-penn'orth in on the subject of brick, stone, &c papers vs plastic moulded surfaces with relief. I've used my share of Metcalfe &c structures on Cwmdimbath with varying degrees of satisfaction, and in this case satisfaction depends on disbelief suspension. DS is a tricksy customer, which can upset your perception of a model in different, unpredictable, and inconsistent ways, and you will be able to point out inconsistencies in my argument on the subject...
I have come to the conclusion that I can no longer accept printed card two-dimensional surfaces on my buildings except for placeholders and background features. Plenty of highly respected modellers are fine with them, and I've enjoyed making up the kits, plus they have the advantage of being cheap, no small consideration in my case. But the truth is I can't be doing with them. Especially stone, where I feel the play of light across the surface of a wall is vital to DS. Brick is not so bad. As has been rightly pointed (sorry) out, even old and distressed brickwork does not stand proud of it's mortar or cement more than a couple of mm, and that scaled down to 1/76th is an almost irrelevant dimension.
Almost but not quite, for the purposes of my DS anyway. The illusion is still spoiled when side or angled lighting is shone on the wall; the little shadows need to be there. I don't like overhead lighting on my layout, South Wales isn't the tropics (no sh*t, Sherlock) and the sun is never even close to directly overhead even on midsummer day at astronomical noon. For most of the year at 51 degrees N shadow is a prominent factor in any daylit scene. I have gone to some trouble to devise lighting that plays on the layout from a roughly 45degree angle, and is directional, so that detail on the sides of the models is shown more clearly than it would be in the semi-shade that would result from direct overhead lighting, which makes the roofs too brightly lit anyway.
I will mention Scale Model Scenery printed card low relief buildings, unashamedly devoid of much in the way of relief but, despite printed windows, superbly presented as run-down semi-derelict industrial bleakness perfect for a post-war to 1980 period and fine for backdrop use. And cheap as well, especially as my order for Wood Bros came with a freebie end gable factory building which has been handy as the colliery winding house with a bit of modification.
Resin RTP brick is pretty good, but a little expensive from the Skaledale and Scalescenes ranges. The bricks have a reasonable amount of relief and the standard method of mortaring, running white or cream paint into the gaps and wiping the surface, brings the relief out in a way that may or may not be dead-on scale but 'looks right' to me and my DS mechanisms. I made the mistake of buying a Scenix loco shed for the colliery, though, reasonably priced and looked the part until I realised there were no windows, and they were solid painted in black. It is now doing duty as the pithead boiler house with the Rule 1 excuse of blackout hangover from the interesting period of German foreign policy betwen 1939 and 1945. I've got a Harburn Hobbies pigeon loft which is not bad in the background but a bit lumpen and liken to a plaster tourist knick-knack for my taste. So, clearly, quality and realism varies.
Plastic brick, in kits or Wills/Plasticard sheets, varies as well. Wills (bit pricey if you've a large area to cover) are pretty good. The old Airfix (now Kitmaster from Dapol) kits have raised mortaring, a bit like the gaps in Triang rolling stock planks, while Plasticard suffers a bit from the mortar-too-deep syndrome, and so do some of the Gaugemaster kits; I think these used to be made by Heljan. Tiled and slate roofs on these need replacing just to shield my beautiful eyes from the horror, in fact I make my own slate roofs from thick cartridge paper on almost all of my buildings that need them. Roof tiles were rare in South Wales except for decorative ridge tiles and bargeboards before WW1 and the spread of the arts'n'crafts middle class suburbia dross of a century ago; slate was cheaper! Cartridge paper slate roofs in overlaid strips validate my argument about relief fairly conclusively, I contend.
Overdeep brick relief can, I suggest, be sorted by means of a dilute plaster mix run into the gaps between bricks and then wiped off in the same way as a weathering wash; bit of practice should get you the finish you want. Theoretical, because I haven't actually done this to a Gaugemaster building kit, watch this space (or the layout topic), though.
Let us now consider lasercut scratch-aid building shells. These vary enormously from twee tat to pretty good, but attempts to replicate brickwork are usually not worth the bother, which does not bode well for attempts at stonework. That said, I have a row of five terraced workers' cottages that look to be from the 1840s or so, based on a West Yorkshire prototype I believe, from Ancorton, which are superb. They've got my own roof slates, but the stonework is excellently presenteed and the relief is good. Painted to represent the local Valleys Pennant Sandstone, they pass muster very well indeed. I'm reminded of the Rhydycar Terrace at the St.Fagan's Folk Museum, which I remember in situ in Merthyr Tydfil. I can recommend Fair Price Models as well, for quality and, um, to be fair, fair pricing... I have a corner shop from them as well, and I cheated on this one, rendered walls being perfectly acceptable for early 20th century buildings in South Wales.
But there are some appalling overpriced badly proportioned frankly rubbish except as xmas cake decoration lasercuts out there. A mistake was a small luckily not too expensive goods shed from lcut on the Bay, which had printed card doors which have warped, and rather derisory brickwork, so I'm thinking of replacing it (along with a Metcalfe signal box which I managed to drop a hammer on, never 100% happy with it anyway for the reasons discussed although the printing was first-class). Favourite at the moment is a Gaugemaster ex-Heljan that I like the form of, but it'll need a lot of work to bring it up to scratch. I'm intending to try out my plaster mortaring method on it. The favourite signalbox at the moment is also Gaugemaster, marketed as 'Fordhampton' but a GW standard type to be painted in WR livery, but this is a lapped plank structure, and no staircase outside to trip me up, so there is no stone or brick trouble. The roof though, my eyes, my beautiful eyes...
Then we come to 3D printing. Again, a lot of appalling overpriced tat to wade through on the Shapeways site to find anything worth bothering with, and not cheap. Simon Dawson of this very parish, Rue d'Etropal, trading as Recreation 21, does a row of terrace cottages that I intend to purchase, though; forced perspective low relief fronts or backs running along a street from 4mm to 2mm scale, just the optical illusion I am looking for for the end of the village. 3D can offer very detailed and realistic models, but the entry level is too low to provide enough of them to emerge from the morass of a trawl through SW. Some work is going to be needed to clean flash on what will be some very delicate parts such as window frames. A more 1890s looking stone-faced terrace, five dwellings again, can't recall where from offhand now, was a success, but, again, needed a proper roof and drain detail adding. Don't mind this with 3D or lasercut which are more scratch-aids anyway; it's called modelling, kids, ask your grandparents about it!
I've made what I'm certain is the right policy decision, no more printed card, for me; I write this screed as a means of mentally ratifying my though process and as general comment if anyone's interested, and there's no law says you have to be. This is my opinion FWIW, probably as much as I'm charging you for it, and not to be taken as instruction, advice, or in any way as my attempting to foist it on others who are quite happy with printed detail on buildings. There is no right or wrong way to get the result you want, as long as you are content with it, but my rationale as applied to the forum discussion may be of use to someone, hopefully.
I have also followed a similar train of thought re: surface texture on building structures, but have settled on different products to achieve the desired effect.For brickwork, I now prefer to use Redutex sheets, this is a flexible, 3D printed self-adhesive product that has a subtle relief that looks right from a viewing distance. Not cheap (unless you buy it from a closing down retailer in Liverpool) but very effective: used here on my station building:
I am currently building a street of terraced houses by modifying the laser-cut building ‘shells’ and the excellent sash windows supplied by Scale Model Scenery, but will be replacing their printed paper brick sheets with Redutex. The proprietor at SMS has been very accommodating about supplying part kits in bulk.
The are some excellent 3D laser-cut products out there, but I agree that you need to choose carefully: you mention lcut, but I have found their arched retaining walls are amongst the most realistic available - and robust enough. JSModels use a much heavier grade material than lcut with an effective rendering of cut stone or brickwork: these buildings assemble really well and are an absolute pleasure to build:
Although in this image clearly one of the ModelU figures has found his sack too heavy!
I find it does pay to shop around, do your research and take your time to find the right quality products. Increasingly though, I now find myself using commercial product as a base and then often heavily modifying them - or more recently as my skills have developed, scratch building to get the right outcome. But there is some very good stuff out there now for the discerning modeller.
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58 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:
That's quite amazing Phil,
I assume the tender-drive 'Scotsman' has traction tyres?
It's interesting that the loco is both pulling and pushing the train. The reason I mention this is because, were the loco just pulling that weight then the front of the train would probably collapse inwards on the curves. That's my experience, even on 3' radius curves.
When I tested Accurascale's Deltic on Little Bytham, the maximum number of carriages I could put behind it was near-40 (these were mainly metal ones). Despite the cars having pin-point bearings in their bogies (and, thus, very free-running), by the time 38 carriages had been hooked up, the leading cars just fell inwards on the 180 degree end curves (a demonstration of Newtonian physics?). I was, therefore, unable to find the limit of the Deltic's haulage capacity, though, on a further test, Hornby's magnetic couplings parted when 30 cars were behind the Type 5.
There is no way any of my locos could pull/push 50-odd carriages; not my kit-built ones, anyway. 25 metal ones seem to be possible with Bytham's RA9s, which is more than enough.
Regards,
Tony.
Yes, it has a rubber traction tyre fitted, which undoubtedly makes a big difference. Also all of the coaches were relatively light RTR plastic ones, which must have a bearing on the lateral forces in play on the curves. The layouts minimum radius is about 3 feet.
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Granted this isn’t exactly finescale modelling, but it makes a counter-point about the haulage power of some RTR models. A ringfield motored tender drive Flying Scotsman from the 1980’s, unmodified, happily hauling 51 Hornby and Bachmann coaches. It would have pulled more but the layout wasn’t big enough! Not forgetting of course that the powered tender was additionally propelling the unpowered loco. I wonder, would it also haul one of Tony’s heavyweight rakes?
Later in the clip, a Heljan Falcon diesel loco does the same, again straight out of the box.
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The ‘build it’ versus RTR comparison has many aspects. I am now in the eighth year of my relatively modest layout build, and still have much work to do. I am not in a rush to complete it, if anything the rate of progress is slowing down as time passes, because I am enjoying the journey and that has become more important to me than reaching the end point. In fact, I keep finding more things that I want to do with it, prolonging the process.
And that’s the point, isn’t it? We should indulgently enjoy our hobby along the way - it is not a job with a deadline to be rushed, it gives much more than instant gratification. The pleasure of building a kit, taking your time to get it right, leaving it for a bit sometimes then coming back when you’ve worked out a problem or are in the right frame of mind again: all this is a part of the relaxed approach that makes the hobby enjoyable.
The other aspect of RTR that I don’t like is when they go wrong. The model might be more accurate, but they are frequently less robust than a self-build. Rotting Mazak, split plastic cog wheels, plastic parts not up to the job… RTR models that are used often don’t age very well. At least if you have built it, you will always know how to fix it!
RTR definitely has its place in allowing me to create something much bigger as a whole, than I could make myself in the available time. But making stuff myself and taking time over the journey will always be the most enjoyable part of it all.
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On 19/01/2024 at 19:17, Tony Wright said:
*snip*
Of course, kit-building (and, especially, scratch-building) is way, way beyond the majority in this hobby, other than the making of simple plastic or card kits. If this sounds elitist, then I'm afraid (in my experience) it's true. I'd certainly put really good (loco/stock) painting into that category as well - its mysteries are beyond me, for sure; a quality airbrush, lining with a bow-pen and the right temperament, not to mention great ability.
*snip*
Ability is frequently mentioned as a barrier to kit-building. I suspect temperament is often closer to the truth!- 3
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16 hours ago, Tony Wright said:
……
Posts (on here and elsewhere) regarding the future of our great hobby are very interesting. Perhaps the (immediate) future isn't quite as lugubrious as suggested, but there's no doubt it'll change (as it always has). My perception (perhaps prejudiced?) is that I've observed a diminishing number of modellers actually 'making things' (and I don't mean just locomotives/stock). From personal experience, in the past it was out of necessity, but not so much now - cause and effect? I'm not against RTR/RTP, nor those who enjoy the hobby using such stuff, but I struggle to find a great interest in it; until someone has personally done something to it. Then, they have a personal story to tell, which I find very interesting.
Regards,
Tony.
I think you’ve hit the nail on the head there, Tony. The club that I attend is not short of new members arriving with a genuine interest in model railways. Mostly recent retirees looking to develop a hobby, they have high levels of enthusiasm and interest, but lack the depth of model-making skills and subject expertise that our sadly departing older club members had. Knowledge transfer within the club has become increasingly important to us, but we are inevitably seeing much more modification of RTR now rather than traditional scratch~ or kit~ building in what members bring to run on club layouts.
A combination of better RTR models available, and a generational shift away from ‘making things’ as a mindset that has been mentioned on here before. Also, we are seeing a subtle shift more towards blue diesels rather than transition era, as childhood recollections also move on a generation…
I think back to the loss of retailers such as Eames, Victors, W&H etc, and what were highly regarded exhibitions such as IMREX. Is the loss of Hattons and Warley/NEC so different? Especially at a time of ‘cost of living crisis’, and the emergence of new successful businesses supporting the evolving hobby?
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On 18/01/2024 at 08:50, Tony Teague said:
How would that manage to show track occupancy?
8 hours ago, philip-griffiths said:Graham doesn’t use DCC, but a CBUS system of detectors, CANINP and mimic outputs would do the job with two wires…..
A straightforward DCC mimic display driven by point control would show route selection easily enough. Of course as @philip-griffiths says occupancy does need additional detection but this can also be relayed up to the panel using mimic components. The point I was trying to make is that you could do it all with just two wires up to the balcony.Whether all the time, effort and investment in electrickery at either end of the two wires would be worth it, is another matter, of course!
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21 hours ago, ian said:
It'll look great when you've got all the occupancy lights wired and connected to the layout....
I'll see myself out.
That would be a doddle with a dcc point control setup. Just needs two wires up to the panel from the layout, and mimic units for the lighting.- 1
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My club in deepest Cornwall is currently having an interesting, sometimes emotional debate about its future direction. We have the typical boomer-centric demographic but with a significant minority of younger members who are still working. We get a regular trickle of new members and are having to adapt to keep them on board, whilst some older members have faded away.
The current longer serving membership are now mostly retired and increasingly prefer to meet during the daytime, and avail themselves regularly of the on-site cafe! They mostly model in fine scale and do a lot of scratch building, we have an exhibition quality layout that has been many years in the making.
Newer members are a mix of newly retired and working age enthusiasts, the former fit in easily enough with the retirees but the younger ones are only around in the evening. Both however, typically turn up initially with RTR stuff, often older second hand items, and following open discussions it has emerged that most of them are intimidated by the clubs main finescale layout and are holding off becoming engaged in building its replacement. However, enthusiasm is emerging for a club layout built to less exacting standards, using more proprietary items such as code 100 streamline track work. Something that will be more tolerant of people’s learning curves, suitable for their older RTR collection… dare I say less intimidating modelling-wise. The possibility of starting a new layout built along these lines is slated for discussion at our AGM next month, possibly to be the focus of our members attending in the evening.
My point being, new members need encouragement and acceptance at an entry-level for the hobby, basic abilities need to be accommodated and provision made for them to grow step-by-step in modelling ability until they are able to migrate to the higher level of modelling that others take for granted. Expecting them to jump in at the deep end with those who often have a lifetime of experience, they see as a big ask.
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10 hours ago, St Enodoc said:
Wot, instead of playing trains?????
Imagine the fun that you would have, lining up the Shackleton for an attack on the long rake of clay wagons…. Twice the fun!
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57 minutes ago, MJI said:
Working from home = not wasting time and money commuting
Yes but from the employer’s perspective:
Working in the office + time and money wasted commuting > working from home.
Because it’s not their time and money that’s being wasted!
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Wright writes.....
in Modelling musings & miscellany
Posted
Map pins, the ones with the coloured plastic balls on the blunt end, work best if you want to avoid getting glue all over your fingers before you start!