gromitdog

Hi Stephen Thank you for your reply and advice I will look into stretcher bar movement where I think the problem may well be the points are already on soldered onto PCB and painted so l investigate further and if that does not cure it I will look into cutting & putting a 4mm scale fishplate into the switch blade as you suggest Thank you for your help and advice Gromitdog

Hi Ian Thank you for your reply you are right I should send them back for him to sort it but I didn't think it be a problem as a relay type motor Which I been used to on previous layouts would have moved them no problem. But the cobalt motors are far more gentle on these point blades, It took me ages to get them and I don't think his after service is not up to much if you get my drift as when I phoned up about them being stiff he said just to look carefully at them and ease them off where they are tight ! Certainly wouldn't & couldn't recommended him. So the problem I have is that I now laid 95% of my track and sorted the the wiring and put the point in motors so I don't really want to take any of it up again as its taken me ages to get it laid how I wanted it as I didn't have printed plan to follow as I run a Mac computer ( big mistake for this sort of thing ) I will try later this week to up load some pictures for you but I have struggled on hear to upload stuff but you are more than welcome to send me a personal email and I will reply back to you I think your find my email on my profile if not I send it to you Wow that's some layout and write up you done its great to be able to build a shed to fit the layout required I will enjoy reading through your build this week, I gone backwards a little as In our last house I was lucky enough to have a 12x6 but since we moved I now ended up with a 10 x 10 room which I am more than happy with and as normal with all layouts I had rein in what I wanted to do so hopefully it will work out with what I want. Thank you once again for kindly replying to my request for help. Gromitdog

Good Afternoon fellow modellers I have acquired some hand made OO radius points & a customised curved point with a Dimond crossing built in to it from a uk manufacture of hand made track and some flexible track made by the same company for the front half of my circular layout ( viewing side ) In the pass for my layouts I always always used Peco code 75 points so having hand made scale looking track is really nice touch, For the point motors I am using DCC Cobolt Digital IP point motors for all my point switching I have 2 questions that hopefully are easy to answer. 1). A couple of the points blades are slightly stiff to move ( the blades don't move smoothly ) how do I ease this & where on the point, ( I know this is difficult to answer without seeing it ) So that the point motor can move the blades easily accrues to the position required 2). I have tried hard to set the point motors with the point blades in the centre when I come to program and test each point I have a couple that will not fully move across into position, On the Dcc Concept Digital IP point motor there is the little piano wire that runs up through a little blue movable bar into the point sleeper that moves the point blades If I move this bar downwards does this make the throw larger ? Which will make the point blades move further. I hope this makes some sense to you and thank you for taking the time to read this item Regards Gromitdog

Thank you leopardml2341 , SRman & RFS for your replies I have managed to find a spare X9282 for Peters Spares so hopeful fully it will fit and keep the main drive cog in place instead of forcing it off after a couple of revolutions which then stops the wheels from driving and the motor spinning Once again thank you both for your help and advice on with this matter Nige

Hi can anyone help please I have a Hornby Q1 R 2343 which I purchased years ago 2nd hand, I have gone to fit DCC sound to it and realised its missing the Oil lubricator assembly and spacing washer and location block that goes onto the side of the frame x2 Item 10 on the Hornby service sheet HSS268F would anyone have a non running Q1 please or know where I can get the parts to get this loco running again please The spacing washer does not seem to have a part number or come with the screw set are they a set size ?? Thank you for taking the time to look at this Nigel

Hi Chris Thank you for your update on how to put sound into a early Hornby Q1 I have now worked out how to get into the tender thanks for info on how to get tender off .. I have ordered a sound chip and a speaker so hopefully happy days just will need to trim of some of the coal support plastic in the tender and put some more holes in the base to let the sound out Gromitdog

Hi Everyone I want to fit sound into my 2x Hornby Q1class locos one has the 4 pin wire that runs back to the tender which should mean that the sound chip and speaker should fit into the tender Hopefully...... Has anyone done this Hornby sound conversion to this loco please ?? The other Q1 R 2343A is the older type where the DCC chip fits inside the loco on the top. But the speaker would have to go in the tender which is np to do The question is does anyone know how the this tender comes apart ?? I have found the middle 2 screws but their are no screws for the front end of the tender that I can see and there is no clue to how the front top end of the tender releases cant see any clips either can anyone shed any light on the please as I cant find anything on the internet either .......

Hi Phil.c Wow stunning layout what a joy to read through the forum and to watch the video's and look at the stunning pictures Gromitdog

Wishing you all a Happy modelling Christmas and New Year, I have been looking at Track Planning software over the past few weeks and have tried to down load TRAX planning software but can't seem to work out how it works or if it downloaded propery can anyone suggest if there are any other's that would suit a apple mac. I am not brilliant with complicated down loads so would just like a one simple to use and that you can print off the track plan which would enable me to proceed with planning and building of my layout for 2016

Thank you for your ideas for my planning my 8x12 model railway i will take look at Eridge, Oxted and Arundel track plans, For the curves I was hoping to go for around 4 min - 6 ft o/d Nothing I have purchased so far has a bias towards the Electrification regions so I can do most areas of the SR region Regarding the hatch. I was hopping that with the hings on the top would enable me to get a good close fit when the rails are laid I know the hinges will restrict where I can lay the track but i was hoping i could hide the hints under some scenery

I have been a member of RMWeb for about a year now since taking early retirement after working as an aircraft engineer in Airline maintenance for 30 years. My father has been interested in trains and then model railways and has built a couple and changed each one a few times and he is still enjoying finishing and tinkering with his current layout today. About 5 years ago I bought a set of baseboards from a guy's father who was planning to build a layout but unfortunately he wasn't able to get past making the baseboards. So I would like to plan and build one layout without too many changes to the original plan if that is possible as I want time to enjoy the building and running of it. As you can see from the pictures below, the baseboards are about 36-39 inches high and about 26 inches wide with a cut out / lift up hatch for easy access which can be moved to suit the final plan. Before I start I need to modify how the boards join together to improve the final running of the layout, 3 of the boards are 6 feet long and I want to make them all the same length of 4 foot long. Also I want to turn over some of the boards to enable me to create some height and depth to the layout. I want to do a 00 Southern Region themed layout set somewhere fictitious and set between 1930 - Nationalisation of the big four companies. Over the past 5-8 years I have been storing away some stock and bits and pieces to spread the cost. I would like to include some of the following:- DCC operated Junction Station with or without Branch Line / Main Line split where passenger trains are made up or split or go straight through as express trains. Small goods yard for making up and splitting goods trains. Want to have more countryside than buildings. Not to overcrowd the layout with track, maybe have some nice large easy curves possibly carrying through the station. 4-8 storage tracks 2-4 in each direction or if anyone has a better idea for storage of complete made up sets please fee free to make a suggestion. I have thought of having this on a lower level. I have looked at a few station plans with junctions and pleasing curves like Horsted Keynes, Halwell, BRM Blog featured Pencarne Junction, Rowland Castle and many others. If anyone has any others to consider that may be suitable to modification to suit the layout size please feel free to comment. We have looked at so many layouts and ideas we feel we now have layout planning overload. If anyone can recommend a Track Planning Program for Windows that may help. As you can see this is as far as I have got as I am currently doing some contract work in the UK so I am open to any ideas or suggestions with the planning of an interesting layout which will give me hours of enjoyment.