Ray Von

Evening,

I've just bought these (pictured) on eBay, which is fine - but on opening they look quite old and are in original packaging. I'm no collector, but I was just wondering if it would be sacrilege to paint them / modify them etc for my layout?

It needs a sensitive artist's eye for colour palette, which I have not got...

I was an art student in my youth, but the thought of accurately reproducing the effect we are talking about fills me with a fair bit of dread! I'll have a stab at it though. The posts seen here so far will be of great assistance (keep em coming!)

As it is, I am JUST approaching the final (technical) stages of my track and baseboard - see my blog - so now the REAL work can begin....

Cheers L49, that's a really useful and informative post, I think I will try these techniques on a spare piece of brickwork sheet a few times and see how I get on. Thanks for the Humbrol reference ​numbers too. :-)

Going off on a slight tangent here, what is everyone's preferred way of painting their model kits? Is it best to paint the pieces before assembly, or make the kit and paint after??

That looks like a wall constructed from reclaimed building materials Ray. In the main "Suffolk White".

If doing it from printed media card kit it'd be possible to use photo manipulation software to randomise the pattern. I'd not underestimate the work involved though for best results.

C6T.

Thanks chaps, I did realise that the example image that I posted wasn't quite typical of the sort of brickwork I'm getting at, but the overall colouring would be along those lines.

Obviously, "reclaimed" wouldn't​ be quite the effect I'm after! Many buildings where I live are made from these type of bricks, so I should have no shortage of resource material. I will have a stab at the technique described by Colin K though, I think experimentation will play a big part in the endeavour......

Hi all,

Just a quick request for some expertise / experience in creating the pictured effect in paint on plastic kits. I like the idea of this on an engine or goods shed - but just thinking about where to begin is making me crosseyed! I notice that the majority of buildings on other layouts are red brick or stone, is this "yellow" colouring avoided because of its complexity or is there a trick to easily replicating the varied colours and tones? I would hazard a guess that a base of a khaki or sand colour would be a good place to start....?

All input welcome, thank you.

Sorry Andi! You're quite right. I'll let you know how I get on when they arrive...

Ok, I've ordered 2 x PL11's from Hattons... :-)

Cheers,

Although I've just seen this on Hattons webpage:

"N gauge points will need to be raised by approx 2mm for the drivebar to engage correctly with the tiebar."

Hmmmmm. So, would that involve packing under the the whole of the point section of track? And would that result in a "bump" in the track. I suppose my other option would be to cut out a piece of the cork underlay (4mm) to accommodate the motor then put something 2mm in the recess. In effect lowering the motor by 2mm as oppose to raising the track?

Thanks guys, I will probably order a couple of the peco motors (pictured) as I can see me having the same issue further along the track:

In this pic the green arrow is the hole I've already drilled and the red one is the next to be made. It runs along parallel to the bracing, but both of these sets of points won't be visible.

Ideally, I'd like it motorised. But, as I say - surface mounted would do just as well. I'd be interested to know though, if a crank mount would be an option as Keith suggested?

I will be taking you up on that! One of my point motor holes is way too close to the bracing! I suppose i could use a surface mounted motor tho, as it is in a non scenic area...?

Thank you chaps, that feedback means a lot to me!

I do have two more pieces of 2 x 1 - and I will probably place them as follows. I've enjoyed making the baseboard, a bit less confident about the wiring and electrics... Thank you again.

Cheers for the input guys, I did actually buy five of the short lengths of 2 x 1 and some metal L brackets but the layout is currently about a week made and is still as flat as a pancake, so i haven't attached them as yet. The cork tiles are unsealed, but i have painted around the edge of the whole layout and the joins between tiles with a strong PVA wood glue and they are held down with double sided carpet tape, so far so good.

I was going to plump for 9mm ply but, erred on the side of caution, it makes it a bit of a heavy b*gger - but I'm really happy with what I've come up with. PS, and it was made in about two hours (including driving time!) Maybe I could start a business....

Hi all, just wanted to show what could be done with under a tenners worth of timber!

As you might know I've had a bit of a wait for my previous - commissioned - layout, so I have struck out on my own and made a start on this New (edit 'N' not 'New') gauge set up. It is 4' x 21" on 12mm ply with 2" x 1" bracing (maybe a bit OTT.) I've cork-tiled the top and have just started to play around with the track formation. The inner radius track is flexible and is just taped in place at the min (hence the egg-shapedness!) I have drilled 5mm holes under the points for siting motors at a later date, hope that's sufficient? Any thoughts or suggestions at this stage V welcome. :-)

Cheers Giles, so rubbing a balloon on my T-shirt prior to sprinkling wouldn't have the desired effect....!?! :-D

Just kidding, thanks for your help.

Hi, I'm fairly new to this lark and have never used static grass before, can I just ask- do all of these static grasses have to be applied with one of those electro static gizmos? Or is there an alternative? Thanks in advance. :-)