tapdieuk

Jim is there not room for a wafer thin speaker buried under a large heap of coal?..... Impressive work. Will

Simpson Springs: Any tips on how not to damage them when fitting wheels, adjusting quarting back to back. I alway seem to damage/bend them despite being careful. Then spend an amount of time to get the contact on the stub axles. I the wire available separately, I am running low on springs from n gauge couplers to straightens out.

Still some bits to finish, a few couplings and some transfers for the brake van, but the S&D train is ready. Not based on any particular train or photo. Just what is offered from the 2mm shop and as 3d prints (Brake van) The loco is a older Farish Jinty with a replacment chassis and a repaint.

Many projects have been worked on over the hoildays, but the J13 has made through the paint shops. Lots I still could fiddle with on the chassis, body and paint job, but on to the next project (after couplings). Full marks to Fox transfers, they drop though the letter box almost next day after placing the order. That gave me the kick to get it sorted. The basic white metal body bought from the local model shop. A Jinty fine scale replacmenr chassis, lamp irons (the rear ones still look cast after a coat of paint) and sanding linkage added. Hand rails carved off and replaced with wire and hand rail knobs GNR not really my thing, but its a chunky freight loco. I would have liked to have ago at the two tone Green with lining. Not withstanding all the faff with masking and lining, chosing the right shades of green etc. It looked ok in grey primer. The Internet says GNR locos were painted grey during WW1 and Fox did the transfers. Plenty of room for a chip and no need for extra weight, although there is room in the tank.

Doing my best to butcher a Jinty replacement chassis. Still lots to go wrong, but with the rods it does roll with a bit of weight on the rocking plank test. No tight spots with the rods, although the Simpson springs have taken quite a mauling, and have been bent back into shape quite a few times. All in all quite please, even after I rolled it off the bench it stilled worked! A tight spot on the splashes needs some fettling on the body.

OK, so the S&DJR wagons were copied from a (Derby?) Works photos show in a write on on rmweb for 4mm wagons. The numbers on 3 of the wagons are made up. Does any have a list of the alloted S&DJR wagon numbers, Or is just a case of going though photos? So in service they would just be in grey overall? If worked hard maybe the metal work would be rusty/grime colour and the inside would have been left bare wood. Save for any left over cargo. With the PO wagons I do need to work on the base colours, a more blended look between the chassis and bodies. Weathering might help. Although It would be easier to recover components and start again. The Jinty chassis is putting up a fight, get the spacers solder without delamination. Also the Simpson springs are getting in the way test fitting the axles and gear drive.

Wagons, lots of them..... Not the best shot, but the latest batch of coal wagons (3D printed Sithlord's files) all wheeled, buffers and painted. Some have couplings but I have used all the batch I made up. SDJR wagons, the n gauge box van will be replaced at some point. The transfers are RailTec recent released set. They have stood up well to my mauling when applying them. A crude close up, how do people like to pick the iron work out? Is it just a very small brush and a steady hand?

Stock boxes After a DG coupling making and fitting session, most of my wagons and coaches have couplings. So far i have been using a variety of ice cream, butter tubs and plastic business card holders for storage both during and after construction. They have been lined with either some close cell foam off cuts or kitchen roll. Its all a bit thrown together and not idea but for long term storage. Although at home on the work bench its ok. The main issue is getting the wagons out with out damaging the couplings, or fine details. Also if i (hopefully build a layout for exhibition ) have to transport wagons i need a more positive restraint to stop any movement/rubbing together. What systems do people use? or what are pitfalls to avoid? Will

Thank you for the replys. I am going with body mounted for the shorter bogie coach. I could do with getting some track down and testing all the stock and couplings.

Kevin, the trains look good. So you have finished a coal tank? Nebnoswal rehearsal S&D trains are great, are the ballast breaks on 3d printed chassis? I stumble over your stl file for the mail van, what 6 wheeled chassis have you used? Will

DG couplings on bogie stock. To fit to the body or bogie? At the moment I have no layout but the points I have are B6. Is there a rule of thumb for the length of the bogie stock to the minimum radius a body mount DG would give problems at? The initial bogie coach i am looking to fit is 3" long with the bogie centres at just over 1 3/4"

A break from wagon building with a B6 Easitrac pegged point with machined frog, my first point. Tonight's job file the point blades

All the PO wagons have been wheeled and painted (not the neatest, but should look OK weathered) , and a start on transfers. The LNWR transfers going on well. A productive couple of hours Saturday, and a enjoyable anniversary ZAG session

It's easier to start a project than finish..... I always find having to wait for a part or even paint to fully harden, annoying when I just want to get on with what ever the project is. Most times I lose the inertia, so when what ever it is has arrived or paint harden, the project sits in a box/ pile Something I am try hard not to do or leave for too long in this scale. A couple of the LNWR vans have need transfers and couplings to complete. The transfers dropped through the letter box today. Also the blacking fluid was delivery so the DG couplings etch can be treated, made up and fitted.

OK just to prove 6 wagon bodies I am just going waft a bit of primer on this lot. Far from finish, but ready for the painting and transfers. So far a mostly enjoyable build. The brake handles are my nemis. Although I have had enough to practice on! That and Nickel Silver wire which I lost count stbbing my finger tips!

A half dozen P O wagons. 2 diffrent wagon bodies to give a bit of varation. The older mouldings needing some internal details. A bit tedious at times, but progress is being made.

After a painting session, I have assemble part of the van train. The gunpowder van is a Dapol van I have turn the wheels down on. Although I might still put it on an etch chassis, the plastic one really looks chunkey compared to the others. The rest are etch kits. Does any one know were I can get LNWR transfers?

After fighting with the roof and sides, the LNWR railmotor body and roof have been soldered together. Bit of a catch 22, the sides and end were flopping about, the roof (some hard thinish brass shim) while trying to tweak the profile kept moving around. Even with the underframe screw up and the lot taped down to a bit of wood, I could not adjust one side with out the other moving around. I got the ends to were it looked ok, tacked those and then manipulated the sides. It's far from prefect, the ends are slightly higher, one side is better than the other, and a few gaps..... but its made the coach much stiffer. Despite the thin brass shim, the roof it did not deform when drilling holes for the vents Only the lower edge of the sides can move when not attached to the underframe. On to the motor bogie now.

Ready for painting, an etched LNWR van. Still getting to grips with the small parts of this scale. All good fun and enjoyable in the end, but there were a few moments of sheer frustration. I know what to do better on the next one.... Will

A really informative thread. I would also be interested if a set of etchings are available. Will