CarriageShed

I'd say that the DL Bradley series of books would have the best info on loco numbers and locations - and of course I only have Vol 3 which is no good for Terriers. I do have the Brian Haresnape book on Stroudley Locomotives which seems to have a large number of photos and quite a bit of detail. What period are you looking at for 'East of Hastings' Terriers?

As someone who is attempting to model the S&DJR around Bournemouth West, I can sympathise with a liking for Midland locos. Those look absolutely lovely. Mind you, so does the layout...

Haven't done a single piece of modelling this year, most due to having to rebuild four websites to be mobile friendly. Just about to start with an hour's work in the evenings though, and it's about time. Coincidentally one of the first jobs will be carriage building - from a 3D print that needs a chassis.

Where's my N gauge shrink ray gone...?

...as well as some suitable bodies and other assorted and highly pungent refuse

That looks absolutely gorgeous! Would that diagram have been used on the Pines Express to Bournemouth West in 1930? It's near impossible to find a precise list of coaches used on the service at that time. Peter

I'm taking medication for my Paddlebox obsession For the most part the T14s were shedded at Nine Elms. In the Grouping or post-war period it would be easy enough to have one temporarily 'borrowed' by Stewarts Lane for a few otherwise unrecorded trips down into Kent... I seem to have started something here. Apologies for hijacking the thread!

My dream one day is to have a Urie or Maunsell-rebuilt Paddlebox 4-6-0, although I may need to develop some scratchbuilding skills first!

The Scottish Dugald period in its entirety is wrong for me specifically (far too northern for the LSWR), as is the entire Peter period unless his locos can be re-used for LSWR types.

Wrong Drummond period, but quite possibly 'hackable'! How can anyone not love Drummond 4-4-0s?

In N gauge terms we already have the Union Mills T9, and the chassis is a good basis for any 3D bodies even if the driving wheels may be a little big for some of the other Drummond variants. I'm already planning to hack the UM T9 into a K10 and L11 with some N Brass Locos parts to replace the removed bits (one of my most ambitious projects to date). Those are both low-boiler types so it's not too much of a change, but the higher boiler types are unachievable except by scratchbuilding or 3D printing: S11 (the T9 wheels are a little large but not especially so if you're not a rivet-counter type - for me it's more about the right feeling than 100% scale accuracy), L12 (same driving wheels as the T9, so very appropriate), possibly a D15, and a C8 (which had a slightly shorter wheelbase than a T9 but again it's not a massive difference). Colin at Union Mills told me to ring again in January about ordering a couple of T9s for my K10 and L11 projects, so that'll keep me busy for much of 2019, but it'll certainly be comforting to know that there could be further Drummond 4-4-0 projects to take up my time later in the year, or even next year.

If I keep intoning 'Drummond... Drummond... Drummond...' in the background I'm sure well get an LSWR 4-4-0 in no time at all Happy New Year, Tom, and keep up the fabulous work whichever locos or rolling stock you decide to produce.

Excuse me while I drool...

Indeed it was, but only after they moved from their Highbury offices, somewhere around 1962-1964 (my mother was working for them at this time, which is how I'm able to pass this on). Then they would lay on a coach to pick up staff from the Hornsey area to take them up to Edgware for the day's work before dropping them off again in the evening. Katy Boyle once attended the grand opening of one of the boutiques on the ground floor of the Edgware building....

Glad you liked it. There are several other such railway walks on the site but so far I haven't been able to persuade anyone else to do that kind of photographing and writing up. Sadly, as you're probably aware, there's nothing visibly remaining of the former bridge in slide 28. I wasn't able to get off the road to check the sides as one half was being cleared for housing construction and the other half was a fenced-off industrial site.

I photographed the Bunn's Lane bridge just a few years ago... It's still all there, if a bit hidden now. The entire Mill Hill-Edgware walk can be found here if you're interested: http://www.historyfiles.co.uk/RailwayWalks/Britain/MillHillEast_Edgware/MillHillEast_Edgware01.html

I started doing it because I wanted an intelligent conversation (Immediately goes into hiding...)

In N gauge terms it may be worth having a chat with Nick Tilson of N Brass Locos. He already produces a range of loco spares such as chimneys, domes, smokeboxes, etc, and is pretty open to producing new parts if there's a need. Working with him would certainly allay any fears of duplication.

Thought you'd been a bit quiet of late. Happy to hear that Mrs Simon is recovering well

As an NGS member, I would certainly find wagon strapping useful. There has been the odd occasion when I've wanted to build a specific open wagon to place on a Peco chassis but didn't know how to replicate the strapping.

I like the cut of your jib, young sir (I use 'young' advisedly, as I seem to be younger than at least 60% of railway modellers, and I don't mind the standard N coupler at all. I know, I'm weird). Now if you could produce a variation of Bath1.jpg as an MDF-style kit that's suitable for the near approach to Bournemouth West then I may have to volunteer to have your babies. I can't find anything that approximates the signal box in question, even with the fact that mine will be facing the back of the layout and doesn't necessarily need to be fully accurate. The thought of having to scratchbuild it fills me with several layers of the horrors...

This was the picture I meant. It looks brown to me, albeit a bit of a greyish brown. Is this going to be one of those online 'what colour is it really?' things... Nick is right about the door supposedly being at the steps end rather then the other end. The diagram even shows the steps that had to be removed, and the top step which had to be moved upwards, immediately above the new door. The door is on the left rather than centred, but a fresh look shows a dotted outline for the door which confirms that it was no longer than the window next to it - the same as your door - so not a full-sized door at all as I'd originally thought. It's a bit of a minefield just for a half-pint door. To be honest, if a 2mmFS modeller isn't particularly bothered with it then I can just say 'well he did it this way' and leave it at that! I also tend not to bother quite so much with exact numbers for general wagons - just getting a number that's in the right area is often enough.

Hi Jerry Rather than queue this up on the workbench I've been tempted into starting work on it straight away. And as usual when you actually do a bit of research before assembling a kit, some questions pop up. I have the OPC book with the diagram, and the left-hand end view has notes which show that an end door was added from about 1922. It doesn't say which units received it so the assumption has to be that it was all of them. So do I cut out a full sized door in half of one end piece (dangerous, as I could end up breaking the entire piece), ignore it completely by saying they only managed to convert a few units (S&D records are notoriously sparse so that would be easy to get away with, especially on a layout that isn't intended for exhibition), or print out a paper door to glue on and hope that it provides enough definition...? Hmm... I also noticed that your assembled model uses No 12, which isn't mentioned as a number that was assigned to this type of brake. Did you work from a photo? And finally, your unit is painted brown. The OPC book states dark grey (probably due to it being old paint that was dirtied and weathered) or possibly light grey (LMS style), but not brown. That's just plain confusing

As an electrical blunderer who has spent the last three or more years getting my layout's wiring working at a painfully slow pace (with huge amounts of help), I've suddenly gone right off the idea of using static grass when I eventually get to that stage.