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4003

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Posts posted by 4003

  1. On 19/07/2021 at 09:26, High Level Kits said:

    This isn't something we anticipated. Perhaps if you know the loco wheelbase and look at the shape of the kit for which they were originally designed, this might give you a good idea of feasibility. I've just updated this section of the site although I still have some work to do with prices etc...

     

    Remember though, they're all really slow, so may be no good for a normal DMU etc. Sorry I can't be more help here...

     

    Regarding quad drives for MUs and such...

    You're right, i overlooked that, for these, a ratio somewhere between 15:1 to maybe 40:1 is really all i would want. Your worm drives are so efficient, with those coreless motors there is enough power and slow speed controllability, that they can be run at very low voltages most of the time, making for really quiet smooth drives.

     

    Oh, and thanks for that ultra quick turnaround. 8 days between order and package-pulled-out-of-the-mailbox is stunning.

    (I'm in the US).

     

    C,-w

  2. On 16/01/2020 at 06:06, Giles said:

    My experience would suggest that N20s are most effectively utilised with a 1:1 final drive if possible, and avoid a high ratio final drive (like wot I tried..)

     

    5:1 N20 with 20:1 worm and gear

    35588079606_b700b0938c_b.jpg

    03B65D83-16E9-46C2-88CB-7D1F63F78992_zpsgmmk0e2a by giles favell, on Flickr

     

    Not really, the only bad thing here is that particular implementation of worm drive. First the diameter of the worm. The worm rubs with a surface speed proportional to 3 times the diameter against the gear teeth, and with those fat worm teeth you risk contact on both sides of the gear tooth (which is not cut for worm drive to boot!) unless you keep it sloppy. And i don't remember those worms having a nice polished surface. Anybody remembering "running in" loco drives? In the hope the gear might polish the worm? Anyway, with the motor shaft the fastest piece in the drive train, this worm maximizes friction.

    You need to keep worms as thin as possible and as slippery as possible, with matching, mating gears .

    I'm confident you can connect any quality worm drive at any ratio to this n20 successfully.  Should there ever be a need.

     

    Sorry,-w

    • Informative/Useful 4
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  3. Definitely good news!

     

    But one question...

    Any chance you have a planner-style profile drawing or so for the quad drives? I'm trying to find out if one would fit that MU I'm currently working on.....

     

    Thank you so much!

     

    Best wishes!

     

    C,-w

  4. Just stumbling over this....

     

    What an impressive build...

     

    That kit has been sitting on my stack for a long while, with lots of "?"s attached - especially around the frames and the cradle....

    Now with the valve gear parts on order, and seeing your work, that makes me want to get going on it.

    Again.

    Finally.

     

    But, may I ask you a question, where did you source those drawings showing through in so many photos?

     

    All the best,

     

    C,-wolfgang

  5. I would have thought there were people on this very platform who could write excellent articles if they chose, or were asked. They would presumably write about the stuff they write about on here. Indeed, it seems to me RMWeb is a commissioning editor's dream!

    It is, the article about that 7mm RC auto crane in the last MRJ was a thread here quite a while ago. I'm sure there's more RMweb to MRJ conversions around...

    • Like 1
  6. That's how I do it.

    cover in low odour paint stripper (have no back yard or similar) in a closed aluminum meatloaf baking container over night. Lifts all the paint, and dissolves most of the glues. Scrub off and wash in cold water.

    Then in to simmering water if needed. What's still together, then, separate mechanically / soldering iron if its not a good joint to begin with. Thick superglue can be pulled off or scraped. Acetone I use only sparingly for cleaning up before painting. Those fumes get me bad headaches.

     

    It's a little different every time. With a little care and common sense what needs go apart eventually comes apart.

  7. Having built several crank driven locos, this is less about the quartering, but rather about the crank throw. With wheels and drive-crank being produced by different manufacturers, there will be a slight difference in radius. Bad running is the result.

    On the other side, if you drill the crank pin holes all in the same jig for wheels and Jack shaft, you can drive from the Jack shaft, like the real thing.

     

    Yes, looking truly forward to this one.

     

    C,-w

  8. definitely good news. I hope it'll be available for across the pond.

    And thanks for sharing the email. Used it to enquire about that one Mitchell engine i always wanted, but could neither afford nor build properly when it came out....

     

    keeping the ears crossed,

     

    C,-w

  9. Mitchell kits are still available from David Geen.

    I wish.

    Tried to contact him about them many times over the last years through different means.

    Not a single beep of response in any way.

     

    sorry,-w

  10. It is real!

     

    CSP is alive and kicking and back on track! Today the package arrived with the bits of GWR 1331, practically all castings very nicely done in lost wax.

    Big relief, and happiness. I'm glad that this beautiful range of work did not go down the drain like so many others (Blacksmith, Mitchell, etc...) 

     

    C,-w

    post-29299-0-08978100-1494889329_thumb.jpg

    • Like 2
  11. Unfortunately, I have to share that experience of total silence as well.

    While they say the email is working, nobody seems to be willing to use it to respond in any way.

    Which is sad.

    We all know they are busy (which is why I'd refrain from using the more disruptive phone..), and so far I have Sans Pareil in very high regard.

    He did some first class castings for me long ago...

     

    Getting a strong dejavu to the "Malcolm Mitchell at David Geen" experience.

     

    Its everyone's own choices, I guess.

     

    sorry,-w

  12. The "contact us" is broken for me too (probably for anyone), the email listed with Paypal is bouncing, and another email address listed on the site seems to be live but not responding.

     

    Not looking good, very very unfortunately.

     

    sorry,-w

     

    Some headway is being made - a tentative first post of the year has appeared on the website

     

    I will have to get back in contact about my outstanding order from last year, but the "contact us" link won't work for me. Looks like I'll have to try and phone again mid-week. 

     

    Paul A. 

  13. Ahhhhh ….. the smell of Alco’s in the morning, Mingo Junction Ohio, in the early days of Conrail, with six axle Centuries around the old roundhouse, and film crews on main street filming the Deer Hunter (and please don’t tell me it was actually filmed on the set used for the Moon landings in ’69 - I've heard it all before :nono: ).

     

    https://railpictures.net/photo/590812/

     

    https://railpictures.net/photo/590663?id=590663&showexif=1

     

    http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=271421

     

    There are many more images online, the CRHS etc, and of course the Morning Sun books.

     

    Whats not to like, an old roundhouse, turntable, patched locos, atmosphere and as many Alco's as you want! :locomotive: and the steel industry :sungum:

     

    Now just to get on and build that N scale steel mill I've been collecting bits for for years. Just think what I could have done in that space I've now devoted to O scale :O

     

    Eliza at the river bank, compound barges,

    Zillions of hoppers, colorful rusty PCCs, the brewery and a glimpse of Southside rounding off the background, Smokey diesels everywhere..... And a yellowish brown smoke screen .... ;-)

     

     

     

    Mick.

    • Like 2
  14. John,

    Took me a bit to find them in his catalogue,(weinert-modellbau.de) (forgot what handrail knobs are called in German.....). Anyway, they are catalogue number 8463. One sprue is 20 knobs. Had some spares, so I attached a quick picture (excuse the quality, taken with the cellphone). The handrail stands 2mm off the body surface. They come with the handrail position orthogonal to the base plate, but careful twisting by opp degree won't destroy them. See photo.

    They take Gibson .35mm wire.

     

    In the other photo I hold them against GT3's cab edge, size seems ok. Maybe a wee bit oversized. Good enough for me. But probably a new sheet metal cab seems unavoidable. Eagerly watching what you all are doing with it.

     

    Anyway, Weinert doesn't sell directly, so googling for them directly should find you a dealer, maybe even in the uk.

     

    Hope this helps.

     

    C,-w

    post-29299-0-94929300-1476655209.png

    post-29299-0-34016900-1476655881_thumb.png

  15. As for the chrome handrail knobs with base plate, I think those by Weinert HO are the right shape and size. They're lost wax brass so can be nickel or chrome plated to good effect

    ...

     

    Those stills are amazing.

     

    That trim with the double lines is puzzling. The lines really don't look like painted. What are they? The trim itself b quite substantial and at least on the tender (and cab?) seems to hide a some sort of rebate... For a detachable roof?

     

    C,-w

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