4003

Regarding quad drives for MUs and such... You're right, i overlooked that, for these, a ratio somewhere between 15:1 to maybe 40:1 is really all i would want. Your worm drives are so efficient, with those coreless motors there is enough power and slow speed controllability, that they can be run at very low voltages most of the time, making for really quiet smooth drives. Oh, and thanks for that ultra quick turnaround. 8 days between order and package-pulled-out-of-the-mailbox is stunning. (I'm in the US). C,-w

Not really, the only bad thing here is that particular implementation of worm drive. First the diameter of the worm. The worm rubs with a surface speed proportional to 3 times the diameter against the gear teeth, and with those fat worm teeth you risk contact on both sides of the gear tooth (which is not cut for worm drive to boot!) unless you keep it sloppy. And i don't remember those worms having a nice polished surface. Anybody remembering "running in" loco drives? In the hope the gear might polish the worm? Anyway, with the motor shaft the fastest piece in the drive train, this worm maximizes friction. You need to keep worms as thin as possible and as slippery as possible, with matching, mating gears . I'm confident you can connect any quality worm drive at any ratio to this n20 successfully. Should there ever be a need. Sorry,-w

Definitely good news! But one question... Any chance you have a planner-style profile drawing or so for the quad drives? I'm trying to find out if one would fit that MU I'm currently working on..... Thank you so much! Best wishes! C,-w

Just stumbling over this.... What an impressive build... That kit has been sitting on my stack for a long while, with lots of "?"s attached - especially around the frames and the cradle.... Now with the valve gear parts on order, and seeing your work, that makes me want to get going on it. Again. Finally. But, may I ask you a question, where did you source those drawings showing through in so many photos? All the best, C,-wolfgang

Backwoods is alive and well.... Or isn't???? That kato tram chassis can be extended with longer axles with some care...

It is, the article about that 7mm RC auto crane in the last MRJ was a thread here quite a while ago. I'm sure there's more RMweb to MRJ conversions around...

That's how I do it. cover in low odour paint stripper (have no back yard or similar) in a closed aluminum meatloaf baking container over night. Lifts all the paint, and dissolves most of the glues. Scrub off and wash in cold water. Then in to simmering water if needed. What's still together, then, separate mechanically / soldering iron if its not a good joint to begin with. Thick superglue can be pulled off or scraped. Acetone I use only sparingly for cleaning up before painting. Those fumes get me bad headaches. It's a little different every time. With a little care and common sense what needs go apart eventually comes apart.

Exactly, which is where the elegance of the illusion drive comes to its own. Correct size and shape of the fly crank is essential on a loco like this.

Having built several crank driven locos, this is less about the quartering, but rather about the crank throw. With wheels and drive-crank being produced by different manufacturers, there will be a slight difference in radius. Bad running is the result. On the other side, if you drill the crank pin holes all in the same jig for wheels and Jack shaft, you can drive from the Jack shaft, like the real thing. Yes, looking truly forward to this one. C,-w

definitely good news. I hope it'll be available for across the pond. And thanks for sharing the email. Used it to enquire about that one Mitchell engine i always wanted, but could neither afford nor build properly when it came out.... keeping the ears crossed, C,-w

nothing to get over, just sharing an experience, thats all. Things may look differently at times from the far side of the pond, I guess. Glad, though, he's doing well.

I wish. Tried to contact him about them many times over the last years through different means. Not a single beep of response in any way. sorry,-w

Oh, and forgot, at least one of the sprues seems to pertain to the 1361,,, so this may also not be too far out....

It is real! CSP is alive and kicking and back on track! Today the package arrived with the bits of GWR 1331, practically all castings very nicely done in lost wax. Big relief, and happiness. I'm glad that this beautiful range of work did not go down the drain like so many others (Blacksmith, Mitchell, etc...) C,-w

Not to forget. The digital camera was invented at kodak. Irony of life,-w

As far as I understand it Brassmasters use a springing system where the loco frame rests solidly on the bearings with springs depressed all the way. In which case you may have got the wrong set of springs. I'd contact Brassmasters about it. C,-w

One pint Stout Of Circumstance please... Helps with the cameo too. C,-w

Unfortunately, I have to share that experience of total silence as well. While they say the email is working, nobody seems to be willing to use it to respond in any way. Which is sad. We all know they are busy (which is why I'd refrain from using the more disruptive phone..), and so far I have Sans Pareil in very high regard. He did some first class castings for me long ago... Getting a strong dejavu to the "Malcolm Mitchell at David Geen" experience. Its everyone's own choices, I guess. sorry,-w

Yeah. Had this too. Some U.K. Sellers / small suppliers don't want to sell to somewhere foreign too. Usually, if I really want the thing I'd "ask the seller a question". Some reply favorably, some say "sorry", some won't have the decency to respond at all. Would you want to do business with such folks? That's life. Then move on, there will be other opportunities.

The "contact us" is broken for me too (probably for anyone), the email listed with Paypal is bouncing, and another email address listed on the site seems to be live but not responding. Not looking good, very very unfortunately. sorry,-w

John, Took me a bit to find them in his catalogue,(weinert-modellbau.de) (forgot what handrail knobs are called in German.....). Anyway, they are catalogue number 8463. One sprue is 20 knobs. Had some spares, so I attached a quick picture (excuse the quality, taken with the cellphone). The handrail stands 2mm off the body surface. They come with the handrail position orthogonal to the base plate, but careful twisting by opp degree won't destroy them. See photo. They take Gibson .35mm wire. In the other photo I hold them against GT3's cab edge, size seems ok. Maybe a wee bit oversized. Good enough for me. But probably a new sheet metal cab seems unavoidable. Eagerly watching what you all are doing with it. Anyway, Weinert doesn't sell directly, so googling for them directly should find you a dealer, maybe even in the uk. Hope this helps. C,-w

As for the chrome handrail knobs with base plate, I think those by Weinert HO are the right shape and size. They're lost wax brass so can be nickel or chrome plated to good effect ... Those stills are amazing. That trim with the double lines is puzzling. The lines really don't look like painted. What are they? The trim itself b quite substantial and at least on the tender (and cab?) seems to hide a some sort of rebate... For a detachable roof? C,-w

Lovely! Have you tried closing the little fans off with a piece (or several) of paper with only little holes punched in? That should amplify their sound somewhat... (but also increase the load on them...) C,-w

I've been intrigued about that beast myself, now with the shell available, and HighLevel producing a first class chassis, finally really it becomes within reach. But those etched grills are really a must. Just see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=46203 archived, unfortunately. So, if there is a way these can be made available again.... C,-w (PS. also in the states...)