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Hi Bob, You're right, 153 and 121 due later this year... but I was keen to try TXS and pacer needed a decoder. Anyway I can confirm what Jonny said and the NEXT18 decoder does fit in the EFE pacer, no problems. The only issue I did find with the TXS decoder was that it initially was listed as a resettable device but turns out this is an issue with the android app. Forcing stop on the app and restarting it then resulted in the decoder being discoverable. I'm using a HST profile at the moment :o) LOL... actually I'm quite impressed... initial app issues aside it works with my Bachmann controller as well as over Bluetooth using the app (track powered using the Bachmann basic DCC controller). Sound is a bit 'light' but I was under no illusion that the EFE pacer out of the box didn't have a great speaker. All in all for £60 compared to £100 I'm pleased... in the future I may try and improve the speaker bass response but I don't like modifying loco's I've paid full price for. The fact I can change the sound profiles is another bonus as I can move the chip to other loco's and reblow it myself.

Fab, thanks. I'll get one ordered, I was just hesitant because I couldn't figure out whether it would fit or not. Can't beat asking someone who's done it! :o)

Hi, I wondered if anybody had fitted a Hornby TXS decoder into an EFE pacer? According to the Hornby website their next18 decoder does not meet NEM662 requirements and I haven't been able to find out how much space there is inside the EFE pacer decoder slot. Thanks JP

Hi Wasn't sure which forum to post this question in. I wondered if anyone on here uses a 3D printed to create their building 'core' which is then wrapped with suitable printed papers? I've built a couple of the scalescenes kits which I really like but I get quite bored and fed-up cutting the thick card for the base layers and I was wondering if I could 3D print these instead and then wrap them with the paper. I'm sure the answer is 'yes' but wondered if anyone else on here does it? I create the brick courses in the model for for standard brick courses however something like 'random ashlar' where you've got stone blockwork of varying shapes, its a lot more time consuming and I think the scalescene brick paper is excellent. Thanks JP

That's brilliant, thanks for confirming guys. Looking at the website the walls appear vertical whilst the buttresses look upside down... but if you tilt the main wall back at an angle, the buttresses look more suited as the above photo shows. At least the download gives flexibility which is what I wondered. Thanks... quick to the download button..

Looks like rest of my post didn't get posted!! Yes they do. I wondered if anyone who had built it knows whether the buttresses can be turned upside down? THanks Jon

Hi I really like the scalescenes kits, and m thinking of getting the retaining wall kit but the buttresses (!) look upside down to me

Thanks all for your feedback - very helpful. I don't have a back to back gauge but i do have digital calipers and using locos that i know clear the points with no issues I would adjust the B2B until either there was sufficient space to clear the points, or the B2B measurements were similar to the 'good' locos. I agree a three point puller would be better, I can see how that might work. Am a little nervous at using the screwdriver as it would mean a fraction of adjustment and then turning the wheel to try and maintain an even adjustment. I think I might purchase the puller and see how I get on.. if all else fails I can try the screwdriver approach! The wheels are in holes not slots, so it is better if I can adjust them whilst fitted. I have three locos to adjust.

Hi I don't know if this is the correct sub-forum but I wondered if anybody has ever used the wheel setter and wheel puller tools from fohrmann https://www.fohrmann.com/en/wheel-spacer.html I have a number of old locos (childhood favs and ebay purchases) who's drive wheels jump on certain crossovers (code 100) on my layout. I've checked the locos and the powered bogies are set around 13.8mm (measured on a vernier) and as you slowly run the locos over the guiderails you can see the wheels ride up the guides. Most of my locos are okay - this includes old Lima locos and modern Bachmann... the troublesome locos are all Hornby ones. My questions are: 1. Has anyone ever used them 2. To widen the spacing do you have to use the puller or can the wheel setter also widen it (it looks like it can from the photos) I don't really want to use screwdrivers or any other form of jimmy to prise the wheels apart, regardless of the success people may have.. I'd like to do this with low risk. Thanks for any thoughts/opinions in advance. Jon